Stealership ?'s please help ASAP

[hummer74]

Ok, well let me give you the story first then list the questions. First, there were some things going on with my H2 that I needed the stealership to look at so I bring it in to Classic Hummer Grapevine on Saturday. Here are the things I bring it in for:

1. Stuck in 4hi-lock and makes bad noises when turning in 4hi-lock
2. Horn works intermittently.
3. Wind noise from the windshield surround.
4. Light methodical ticking that's fealt in the steering wheel and gas pedal when moderately accelerating around a lazy turn.
5. Change out rear marker light.

So I go over the problems with the service guy and he says "ok, but we have a problem. I can't give you a loaner car because you are under the extended warranty." I tell him that is not right, because I brought my truck in a few months back and got a loaner, no questions asked. He says, "let me speak to my manager and I'll be back." The service guy gave attitude during the whole conversation. Ten minutes later he comes back and says the loaner is out front and I can go.

Fast forward to today (Monday), the service guy calls and says, "The 4hi-lock problem is normal. Somewhere it's written that you have to back up thirty feet to get it out of 4hi-lock. Also, its normal for it to make the grinding noises when turning in 4hi-lock. The horn has been intermittently working due to excess grease on the contact. That is NOT covered under extended warranty and that will be $80 to fix if you choose. The wind noise from the surround is NOT covered under extended warranty and will be $80 to fix if you choose. The ticking is caused by the wear on your front tires. (Even though I have brought the truck in for the same problem before when the tires were in great condition.) And if you want to change out the bulb it will be $20 something dollars." I say, no thanks i'll change it myself. He then says I don't have to pay my deductible because no work was done, but that I'll have to pay a $99 checkout fee for checking out the problems.

My questions to you all are:
1. I've never noticed prior to now, that you had to backup to get the truck out of 4hi-lock. Have you?
2. Do you have grinding noises when turning slowly in 4hi-lock?
3. Don't you think that they should fix the horn (safety issue) under warranty? especially since they had to open it up to find the issue?
(how hard is it to wipe off grease when you already have it opened up?)
4. Shouldn't alot if not all these issues be covered under extended warranty?
5. Why do I have to pay a stupid checkout fee, to see if something is broken or covered under warranty?
6. What do you guys recommend I do?

Any help would be really appreciated, as I am going to pick up the truck tomorrow morning. Thank you so much in advance for your help and comments.

[MarineHawk]

2. Do you have grinding noises when turning slowly in 4hi-lock?


If you are turning on dry pavement in 4-Hi lock, your are putting excessive wear on the drive train. The front tires are locked with the rear, but they are, during the turn, moving at a different speed.

[Captain of the Titanic]

I have none of those problems on my 2006.
:lame: :lame: :lame:


You can take it to The Plano dealership and see what they say, or maybe a 4X4 shop.

I wonder what they would do if you told them to "change the bulb" and leave the rest to me.

Would they charge you the $20 something AND the $99, or just the $20 something?

Also, that tire thing might be taken up with the tire manufacturer. Of course the dealership SHOULD be handling that for you...

I know I'll never be seen at a Grapevine Hummer dealership now.

[CO Hummer]

My questions to you all are:
1. I've never noticed prior to now, that you had to backup to get the truck out of 4hi-lock. Have you?
2. Do you have grinding noises when turning slowly in 4hi-lock?
3. Don't you think that they should fix the horn (safety issue) under warranty? especially since they had to open it up to find the issue?
(how hard is it to wipe off grease when you already have it opened up?)
4. Shouldn't alot if not all these issues be covered under extended warranty?
5. Why do I have to pay a stupid checkout fee, to see if something is broken or covered under warranty?
6. What do you guys recommend I do?

1. No, that's is stupid advice from the dealer. You should not have to back your truck up.
2. No. You'll get chirping on dry pavement, but not grinding
3. That is lame. But it can't be that hard to fix it yourself
4. Ask Adam. He is the kind of extended warranties.
5. Because you took it to a loser dealer. Take it to a real 4x4 shop next time.
6. See #5.

[hummer74]

I have none of those problems on my 2006.
:lame: :lame: :lame:


You can take it to The Plano dealership and see what they say, or maybe a 4X4 shop.

I wonder what they would do if you told them to "change the bulb" and leave the rest to me.

Would they charge you the $20 something AND the $99, or just the $20 something?

Also, that tire thing might be taken up with the tire manufacturer. Of course the dealership SHOULD be handling that for you...

I know I'll never be seen at a Grapevine Hummer dealership now.

yeah, but if i take it to plano, ill have to pay another $99 charge and they wont give me a loaner. I'll try the bulb thing, might work you never know, lol.

also, the ticking thing has nothing to do with the tires. i brought it in for the same problem before when it had good tread left on them.

[hummer74]

1. No, that's is stupid advice from the dealer. You should not have to back your truck up.
2. No. You'll get chirping on dry pavement, but not grinding
3. That is lame. But it can't be that hard to fix it yourself
4. Ask Adam. He is the kind of extended warranties.
5. Because you took it to a loser dealer. Take it to a real 4x4 shop next time.
6. See #5.

only reason i took it there is because they usually give me loaner car (h3) and what i THOUGHT was warranty work.

[Planohummer]

Oversize tires and/or different wheel offset can create the need to back up, but can also be caused by worn out shift fork. Ask the dealer to show you where you authorized the $99 check out fee when you dropped off your vehicle. If you did, pay it. If you didn't, don't. Almost all the extended warranties(even GM ones) have certain exclusions. Can't speak for yours specifically.
Wind noise and bulb are easy fixes(see other threads) you can do yourself. If you've got oversize tires/wheels, put stock back on before taking back to dealer.

[jdrew]

My questions to you all are:
1. I've never noticed prior to now, that you had to backup to get the truck out of 4hi-lock. Have you?

There might be an issue there. Is it an intermittent problem or does it happen everytime?

2. Do you have grinding noises when turning slowly in 4hi-lock?

Probably shouldn't hear a "grinding" noise.

3. Don't you think that they should fix the horn (safety issue) under warranty? especially since they had to open it up to find the issue?

If it is as simple as you said, yes, they should have just cleaned the terminal and since labor was already invested to locate the problem.

(how hard is it to wipe off grease when you already have it opened up?)
4. Shouldn't alot if not all these issues be covered under extended warranty?

That depends on what "extended warranty program" you purchased. look at your agreement, see what is and isn't covered.

5. Why do I have to pay a stupid checkout fee, to see if something is broken or covered under warranty?

Because the technician still needs to be paid either way. He has time invested in diagnosing your problem. If you go to the Doctor because you dont feel good and he says you're ok, do you still pay your co-pay? When you are still under your "factory" warranty, the dealership can bill GM for the time invested in diagnosing.



As for your loaner car, MOST extended warranty programs will not pay for a loaner until a repair has been diagnosed and will be covered by them. Then and only then will they pay for one if it will be an overnight repair. Some Extended Warranty companiers still might not provide a loaner even at that point. The dealership gave you a loaner to attempt to make you happy.

You're not gonna like what I have to say and I don't mean to offend you at all, but it sounds like most of your anger should be directed to yourself and not the dealership. You should have been aware of your service contract limits and benefits when you purchased it as well as when you took it in for service.

The service writer should have explained to you that there would be a diagnostic charge for "non-covered" items when he wrote the servcie order. If he didnt, that would be your only "leg-up" to having your money returned for the diagnosis. Did you sign the work order when you dropped it off?

Did you buy your vehicle from them? If so, how long ago?

[hummer74]

As for your loaner car, MOST extended warranty programs will not pay for a loaner until a repair has been diagnosed and will be covered by them. Then and only then will they pay for one if it will be an overnight repair. Some Extended Warranty companiers still might not provide a loaner even at that point. The dealership gave you a loaner to attempt to make you happy.

You're not gonna like what I have to say and I don't mean to offend you at all, but it sounds like most of your anger should be directed to yourself and not the dealership. You should have been aware of your service contract limits and benefits when you purchased it as well as when you took it in for service.

The service writer should have explained to you that there would be a diagnostic charge for "non-covered" items when he wrote the servcie order. If he didnt, that would be your only "leg-up" to having your money returned for the diagnosis. Did you sign the work order when you dropped it off?

Did you buy your vehicle from them? If so, how long ago?

i believe it's a gm extended warranty. i didnt know all the specifics for the warranty because i bought the truck used and payed to have it transferred to my name. i guess next time, i better KNOW if something is covered under warranty. and no, they didnt explain that if they didnt find anything that i would be charged. the only thing i signed was something for the loaner car saying that i would return it 24 hours after my truck was finished.

[hummer74]

Oversize tires and/or different wheel offset can create the need to back up, but can also be caused by worn out shift fork. Ask the dealer to show you where you authorized the $99 check out fee when you dropped off your vehicle. If you did, pay it. If you didn't, don't. Almost all the extended warranties(even GM ones) have certain exclusions. Can't speak for yours specifically.
Wind noise and bulb are easy fixes(see other threads) you can do yourself. If you've got oversize tires/wheels, put stock back on before taking back to dealer.
i dont have oversize tires on it yet, they're stock. i wanted to get all of the issues documented and fixed before i put the tires on, which should be this week. FYI, i did read the manual, and it actually does say that sometimes you need to back up 25 feet to disengage 4hi-lock. i thought the stealership was BSing me on that one. who woulda thunk it?:confused:

[usetosellhummer]

1. before you complain get educated on what kind of warrenty you have
2. groaning on h2 steering is not unusal (not rack and pinion man it's a truck)
3. no obligation to give you a loaner peroid.
4. They should have cleaned up the contacts as a courtsey but if yo were a dick ???

All in all you bought a used truck and if it is not a GMPP warrenty you may not have much of a warrenty. Most are not bumper to bumper so the wind noise is your problem. This is why I NEVER buy used cars.

[jdrew]

i believe it's a gm extended warranty. i didnt know all the specifics for the warranty because i bought the truck used and payed to have it transferred to my name. i guess next time, i better KNOW if something is covered under warranty. and no, they didnt explain that if they didnt find anything that i would be charged. the only thing i signed was something for the loaner car saying that i would return it 24 hours after my truck was finished.

if it's a GMPP warranty, go here: http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/

It will show you the coverages.

If you didnt sign a work order when you dropped your vehicle off, talk to the service manager and explain to him that you would not told there would be any charges for diagosing any problems. Also inform him that you didn't sign any work orders authorizing any charges.

I used to be a service manager at a Chev dealership. I ran into this all the time. The only way to stop it is to have service advisors educate the customers when they aren't aware of what exactly will come in the future.

Good luck!! :beerchug:

[jdrew]

This is why I NEVER buy used cars.


Unless it's "Hummer Certified" !! :excited: Gotta love that 6/100 basic!

[MarineHawk]

i dont have oversize tires on it yet, they're stock. i wanted to get all of the issues documented and fixed before i put the tires on, which should be this week. FYI, i did read the manual, and it actually does say that sometimes you need to back up 25 feet to disengage 4hi-lock. i thought the stealership was BSing me on that one. who woulda thunk it?:confused:

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8711

[Agriv8r]

Itis not required to back up, but it will help the truck go back into the 4 open quicker. works on Fords and dodges too. Loaners are a courtesey for the most part. If your vehicle is required to be in over night due to repairs, then GM will provide a loaner. If it is overnight waiting on parts, they do not. Want a loaner from a dealer, be nice when you go in and promise/give good surveys. The service writers get grief from all sides, they can be extremely helpful to you if they are on your side. Although it seems petty to charge to fix little annoyances not covered by the warrantt, someone has to pay the mechanics. Sorry for the rant, but I hear it all day.

[hummer74]

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8711

thanks for the info marinehawk, good find with the search!

my point is, when i shift out of 4hi-lock into 4hi, the button blinks on 4hi-lock and then the 4hi button goes on and stays solid. if the gauges, lights, buttons...whatever, tell me i'm in 4hi and im really in 4hi-lock, then that is a problem. that should not happen. the only way im going to know if im still in 4hi lock is to turn and listen to the noises from underneath my truck, then back up 25 feet and try again. :( the stupid button should be able to tell me if it shifted between hi and hilock.

[MarineHawk]

thanks for the info marinehawk, good find with the search!

my point is, when i shift out of 4hi-lock into 4hi, the button blinks on 4hi-lock and then the 4hi button goes on and stays solid. if the gauges, lights, buttons...whatever, tell me i'm in 4hi and im really in 4hi-lock, then that is a problem. that should not happen. the only way im going to know if im still in 4hi lock is to turn and listen to the noises from underneath my truck, then back up 25 feet and try again. :( the stupid button should be able to tell me if it shifted between hi and hilock.

I doubt this will work, but my 03 Sierra, which had the same electro-transfer case shifter thingy, twice would not shift out of 2WD-Hi into 4WD-Hi (light would flicker and nothing would happen). I realize this is different than your situation because it did what it said (not shift), but just in case: I simply disconnected the battery for a few seconds and reconnected it. Then, bingo, it would work fine for nine months or so.

[hummer74]

it is the gmpp extended warranty with the major guard coverage. i think its the best you can get.:confused:

[Planohummer]

major guard covers pretty much all mechanical components, and yes it's arguably the best coverage you can get on a pre-owned vehicle bought from an individual. Squeaks, rattles, water and wind leaks, batteries, bulbs, wear items, non-functional trim items are not covered--pretty much
everything else is. The warranty(gmpp) will typically provide a rental reimbursement IF the repair is disabling AND it takes more than 2 hrs to repair AND the vehicle can't be fixed in a day.

[Hummer Guy]

thanks for the info marinehawk, good find with the search!

my point is, when i shift out of 4hi-lock into 4hi, the button blinks on 4hi-lock and then the 4hi button goes on and stays solid. if the gauges, lights, buttons...whatever, tell me i'm in 4hi and im really in 4hi-lock, then that is a problem. that should not happen. the only way im going to know if im still in 4hi lock is to turn and listen to the noises from underneath my truck, then back up 25 feet and try again. :( the stupid button should be able to tell me if it shifted between hi and hilock.

This isn't as bizarre as it sounds... I will say that i've never seen this problem on H2s or H3s, but H1s have the same problem - even brand new 06 Alphas. You pull the lever to 4 high, but the TC lock light wont go off. Sometimes you have to repeat the forward and reverse routine several times. I have seen both H2s and H3s 'pop' into place in about 10 feet after the lights indicating they've been in 4 high. I'm always make sure I hear the clicking sound underneath before I gun it -- because it'll give you a pretty good jolt when it does engage. The noise is stress on the system -- 4high lock isn't made for dry surfaces with plenty of traction. Have you noticed a slight burning smell as well? So, the dealer was right and wrong. Should you need to reverse an H3 to get out of 4high lock? No. Does it help a sticky system sometimes? Yes. Do you get 'stuck' in 4 high lock everytime you use it?

[hummer74]

:confused: This isn't as bizarre as it sounds... I will say that i've never seen this problem on H2s or H3s, but H1s have the same problem - even brand new 06 Alphas. You pull the lever to 4 high, but the TC lock light wont go off. Sometimes you have to repeat the forward and reverse routine several times. I have seen both H2s and H3s 'pop' into place in about 10 feet after the lights indicating they've been in 4 high. I'm always make sure I hear the clicking sound underneath before I gun it -- because it'll give you a pretty good jolt when it does engage. The noise is stress on the system -- 4high lock isn't made for dry surfaces with plenty of traction. Have you noticed a slight burning smell as well? So, the dealer was right and wrong. Should you need to reverse an H3 to get out of 4high lock? No. Does it help a sticky system sometimes? Yes. Do you get 'stuck' in 4 high lock everytime you use it?
well, i used it in the icestorm in dallas on friday, when i got to work i took it out of 4hi-lock, or so i thought, it stayed in 4hi-lock until i got home. no it didnt smell anything. i noticed it didnt shift out of 4hi-lock immediately leaving work. after i got home, i decided to take it to the dealership because this had never happened before. i backed out of my driveway, then put it in drive and drove off. thats when i noticed it was in regular 4hi. drove to the dealership, and just before i pulled in, i put it in 4hi-lock and then tried to take it out again, just to see if it was still doing it. sure enough, it wouldn't come out of 4hi-lock. i guess im just sort of confused, ive used 4 hi lock before and it had never done this. now it does. i just figured something was wrong because it had never done it before. the manual does say that you may have to back up 25 feet to disengage, i just found it odd that all of a sudden my truck is now requiring it.

[hummer74]

i forgot to add, last time i had the truck in, i asked them to replace the battery with an optima battery. they told they couldn't, that it wouldn't fit in the h2. i KNOW some of you running them, did you have to modify the engine compartment to make it fit?

[Hummer Guy]

:confused:
well, i used it in the icestorm in dallas on friday, when i got to work i took it out of 4hi-lock, or so i thought, it stayed in 4hi-lock until i got home. no it didnt smell anything. i noticed it didnt shift out of 4hi-lock immediately leaving work. after i got home, i decided to take it to the dealership because this had never happened before. i backed out of my driveway, then put it in drive and drove off. thats when i noticed it was in regular 4hi. drove to the dealership, and just before i pulled in, i put it in 4hi-lock and then tried to take it out again, just to see if it was still doing it. sure enough, it wouldn't come out of 4hi-lock. i guess im just sort of confused, ive used 4 hi lock before and it had never done this. now it does. i just figured something was wrong because it had never done it before. the manual does say that you may have to back up 25 feet to disengage, i just found it odd that all of a sudden my truck is now requiring it.

I'm not sure how far north you were during the 'ice storm' but a lot of it was just a light coating of snow. As long as you have substantial traction, 4 high open is just fine. In all honesty, 4 high can get you 95% 4 high lock will get you...I always caution folks about 4 high lock because their salesperson may say "just throw it on if its snowing or raining...it gives you more traction"...but when you have traction, that can really mess up your transfer case...who knows if there's anything wrong...I asked about the smell because sometimes you get a slight burning smell when the transfer case/4wd system is under a lot of stress. If i had to guess -- it would be that the 4 high lock system was over-run in the recent weather, and now exhibits behavior of older 4wd systems...I'm not exactly sure on the exact mechanics, others here are...I just know that i've seen MANY 4wd systems need to go in reverse to un-engage, but not H2s...

[hummer74]

I'm not sure how far north you were during the 'ice storm' but a lot of it was just a light coating of snow. As long as you have substantial traction, 4 high open is just fine. In all honesty, 4 high can get you 95% 4 high lock will get you...I always caution folks about 4 high lock because their salesperson may say "just throw it on if its snowing or raining...it gives you more traction"...but when you have traction, that can really mess up your transfer case...who knows if there's anything wrong...I asked about the smell because sometimes you get a slight burning smell when the transfer case/4wd system is under a lot of stress. If i had to guess -- it would be that the 4 high lock system was over-run in the recent weather, and now exhibits behavior of older 4wd systems...I'm not exactly sure on the exact mechanics, others here are...I just know that i've seen MANY 4wd systems need to go in reverse to un-engage, but not H2s...
thanks hummerguy. i really did need the 4hi-lock. im not one to use it regularly. its only the second time ive used it. first time was in two feet of snow in albuquerque. this time i left for work about 6am and the roads were ice. i really mean ice. i work in the western part of flower mound which can be quite hilly. cars couldnt get up the hills because of the ice. they were all turning around to go another route. i turned on the 4hi-lock to get up some of the hills.

[Ed G.]

If you drive around on concrete, in hi-lock, you may need to back-up several feet to disengage. Driving on cocrete in anything but 4 hi will cause problems, it's not built for it.

Most warranty's do not cover wind noise,they are meant for mechanical and electrical systems.

They should have fixed your horn.

I bought my H2 from Classic, took it there for service and never a problem.

Good Luck.

[Hummer Guy]

[quote=Ed G.]

Most warranty's do not cover wind noise,they are meant for mechanical and electrical systems.

quote]

Is it the problem at about 70mph thats loud as hell?

[Hummer Guy]

thanks hummerguy. i really did need the 4hi-lock. im not one to use it regularly. its only the second time ive used it. first time was in two feet of snow in albuquerque. this time i left for work about 6am and the roads were ice. i really mean ice. i work in the western part of flower mound which can be quite hilly. cars couldnt get up the hills because of the ice. they were all turning around to go another route. i turned on the 4hi-lock to get up some of the hills.

I believe it...I know further north of Dallas got it much worse than central/southern parts of the area.

[lvs]

I had my battery swapped for the Optima. It can be done. No mods to make it fit.

[hummer74]

[quote=Ed G.]

Most warranty's do not cover wind noise,they are meant for mechanical and electrical systems.

quote]

Is it the problem at about 70mph thats loud as hell?

yeah, it's the 70mph+ loud as hell wind noise. someone posted a how to on here somewhere, guess i should try and find it. it was the same fix as the stealership with the double sided tape.

[Motohead]

take off the black plastic peice running up the end of the windshield on the outside. Put either a line of silicon adhesive of tape between it and the windshield. It's rubbing the windshield and making the noise. Had to drive 1100 miles from Dallas when I picked mine up listening to that farking noise...

[H2bill]

[quote=Ed G.]

Most warranty's do not cover wind noise,they are meant for mechanical and electrical systems.

quote]

Is it the problem at about 70mph thats loud as hell?

I have this same problem on my '06. You're saying the factory warranty will not cover this on a six month old vehicle?

[Hummer Guy]

[quote=Hummer Guy]

I have this same problem on my '06. You're saying the factory warranty will not cover this on a six month old vehicle?

Factory warranty covers it no problem...I think we were talking about GMPP or some other extended warranty deal.