View Full Version : Okay, let?s start this all over....
OrangeCrush
11-20-2011, 11:07 PM
So I was pretty much ready to install a bodylift on my H2 so I could install a set of 40?s.
I talked to Travis just now and he said that installing a body lift on my truck would be a PIA because of the diesel conversion. The way the fan shroud sits on the radiator, the hoses, etc, etc...
So I was talking to Reggie who is patiently waiting to get his H2 back from Travis and he came up with a better idea.
Here?s what my truck looks like now.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/MyBlueC5/H2/IMG_0754.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/MyBlueC5/H2/IMG_0755.jpg
The reason I wanted to install a 2? body lift was to get 40?s under it. The reason I wanted 40?s is because it looks to me like the tires are undersized.
I?m running 37?s (10x20) with a 24 offset. I?m wondering if running the same size tires on a set of 12x20?s with a 44 offset would fix my problem and give the truck a more aggressive look.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mark
tyler1bo
11-21-2011, 02:12 AM
Do you have aftermarket keys on there now? Or just the rancho?
OrangeCrush
11-21-2011, 02:46 AM
Just the Rancho. I think I turned the stock keys up a few turns though.
Mark
tyler1bo
11-21-2011, 03:05 AM
You might could go the truxxx lift route with keys and rear coil spacers..would lift it another 1"-1.5". Or maybe do a cognito UCA swap. I think that lifts the front some more too.
OrangeCrush
11-21-2011, 03:07 AM
You might could go the truxxx lift route with keys and rear coil spacers..would lift it another 1"-1.5". Or maybe do a cognito UCA swap. I think that lifts the front some more too.
I?ve got some rear coil spring spacers from an airbag setup I think.
I?m already running the Cognito UCA?s.
Perhaps I need to look into the truxx keys.
Mark
tyler1bo
11-21-2011, 03:16 AM
The truxxx keys are very good..atleast i'm very pleased with mine. And it does pick the truck up a good bit, very good look over my stock setup. But with the way you're truck sits right now, you could very well put a mean set of 38's under there with those octanes you want. It'd look great with that. I'm pretty sure you could make 40's right now, but you'd have to have the correct backspacing/offset to cut it. It may looked stuffed to without the body lift..40's are enormous tires. haha
adamw89_2000
11-21-2011, 03:21 AM
i have 40" mud grapplers with 20" fuel octanes with the 44 offset and 15.5" wide tire. looks mean as hell! if you want pics let me know and i can text em to ya or what not. i dont know how to upload them and dont have any on my computer at the moment.
OrangeCrush
11-21-2011, 03:56 AM
i have 40" mud grapplers with 20" fuel octanes with the 44 offset and 15.5" wide tire. looks mean as hell! if you want pics let me know and i can text em to ya or what not. i dont know how to upload them and dont have any on my computer at the moment.
Well, that?s weird... I responded to you with my phone number so you could text me but it?s not here... weird.
Anyway, text them to me.
(704) 882-1150
Thanks,
Mark
OrangeCrush
11-23-2011, 03:45 AM
So here?s the deal...
I ordered new kryptonite tie rod ends, new ball joints, new keys and spacers for the rear springs.
Turns out my wheels are 20x12?s already so I?m going to wait to see how much higher I get the suspension with the keys and order a set of the 40? Pitbull Rockers.
I spent an add?l 900 bucks getting a new steering box. Mine?s been leaking ever so small lately and it?s been harder and harder to steer.
We?ll see how it looks when the parts start to arrive.
Mark
pwrhse2k
11-23-2011, 02:08 PM
So here?s the deal...
I ordered new kryptonite tie rod ends, new ball joints, new keys and spacers for the rear springs.
Turns out my wheels are 20x12?s already so I?m going to wait to see how much higher I get the suspension with the keys and order a set of the 40? Pitbull Rockers.
I spent an add?l 900 bucks getting a new steering box. Mine?s been leaking ever so small lately and it?s been harder and harder to steer.
We?ll see how it looks when the parts start to arrive.
Mark
Mark, did you order the GM Green Keys or an aftermarket brand? I just ordered the Cognito Leveling kit myself but did not purchase the keys.
OrangeCrush
11-23-2011, 04:31 PM
I ordered an aftermarket set but made sure they were forged.
Mark
guruerror
11-23-2011, 04:43 PM
Mark, did you order the GM Green Keys or an aftermarket brand? I just ordered the Cognito Leveling kit myself but did not purchase the keys.
That kit will get it leveled by itself...but I'd plan ahead 'cause sometimes those keys are a bitch to get out. If you think spacers are in your future, I'd do the keys while its at the shop for the UCAs.
pwrhse2k
11-23-2011, 05:52 PM
That kit will get it leveled by itself...but I'd plan ahead 'cause sometimes those keys are a bitch to get out. If you think spacers are in your future, I'd do the keys while its at the shop for the UCAs.
Thanks Brent. Should I go with the GM Green keys or Truxx? I hear the Green Keys give the same amount of lift as the aftermarket keys but at a cheaper cost. What rear spacers are you running in your H2?
BTW, my DMAXed H2 is supposed to be picked up tomorrow! Hallelujah
Thanks,
Reggie
guruerror
11-23-2011, 05:55 PM
Thanks Brent. Should I go with the GM Green keys or Truxx? I hear the Green Keys give the same amount of lift as the aftermarket keys but at a cheaper cost. What rear spacers are you running in your H2?
BTW, my DMAXed H2 is supposed to be picked up tomorrow! Hallelujah
Thanks,
Reggie
I have no preference on the keys...I've read the same as you, "both give the same amount of lift." I just happened to go with the Truxxx keys, but that's only because I didn't know about the GM Greenies.
I got the 1" Truxxx spacers for the rear.
RE: DMax...finally! I can't wait to hear it. Your Ford's gonna be jealous!
OrangeCrush
11-24-2011, 01:33 PM
Congrats Reggie, I know you?re jonesing to have that thing home. Did you go with the guy I went with? Or did they finally find someone?
If you?re going to order the keys, I?d go with the forged ones. I don?t know if it really makes that much difference but it?s not like they?re more money.
Also, if you?re going to order the keys, I?d buy the spacer kit too. (again, the whole damn kit is cheap... it?s not even a couple of hundred) if you?re going to want any increase in height.
I think I?ve decided I?m going to sell my tires only and use the wheels I?ve got (though wheels are only a grand, it?s the freakin? tires that are a killer)
The Open Country tires I have I think I priced the 40?s in the high 6 or low 700 range. That?s crazy! :mad:
I?m on my third set of Toyo?s and though they?ve been a great tire, I?m thinking I?m going with the Pitbull Rockers... they just look bad ass.
Mark
pwrhse2k
11-24-2011, 05:23 PM
Congrats Reggie, I know you’re jonesing to have that thing home. Did you go with the guy I went with? Or did they finally find someone?
If you’re going to order the keys, I’d go with the forged ones. I don’t know if it really makes that much difference but it’s not like they’re more money.
Also, if you’re going to order the keys, I’d buy the spacer kit too. (again, the whole damn kit is cheap... it’s not even a couple of hundred) if you’re going to want any increase in height.
I think I’ve decided I’m going to sell my tires only and use the wheels I’ve got (though wheels are only a grand, it’s the freakin’ tires that are a killer)
The Open Country tires I have I think I priced the 40’s in the high 6 or low 700 range. That’s crazy! :mad:
I’m on my third set of Toyo’s and though they’ve been a great tire, I’m thinking I’m going with the Pitbull Rockers... they just look bad ass.
Mark
Travis found someone off Central Dispatch. We jacked the price up to get some attention and it worked.
I feel you on keeping your existing wheels and buying new tires. I told you recently I was going to go for the fuel Octanes in a 20" but have since changed my mind again because of the cost of tires. I found a wheel with the offset I'm looking for 17x10 -25 and they were CHEAP! LOL I'm going to slap my 35x12.5 Toyo's on them and call it a day. When I sell the XD Revolvers it should be damn near a wash. I do like the look of those Pitbull Rockers as well. Have you talked to Andres about wear?
I ordered the GM Green Keys yesterday, and i'll probably get the 1" spacer from NORCAL where I purchased the leveling kit? Do I need to change the coil springs? When I purchased the Cognito Leveling kit it came with extended front and rear shocks so I'm good there.
OrangeCrush
11-24-2011, 06:59 PM
Travis found someone off Central Dispatch. We jacked the price up to get some attention and it worked.
I feel you on keeping your existing wheels and buying new tires. I told you recently I was going to go for the fuel Octanes in a 20" but have since changed my mind again because of the cost of tires. I found a wheel with the offset I'm looking for 17x10 -25 and they were CHEAP! LOL I'm going to slap my 35x12.5 Toyo's on them and call it a day. When I sell the XD Revolvers it should be damn near a wash. I do like the look of those Pitbull Rockers as well. Have you talked to Andres about wear?
I ordered the GM Green Keys yesterday, and i'll probably get the 1" spacer from NORCAL where I purchased the leveling kit? Do I need to change the coil springs? When I purchased the Cognito Leveling kit it came with extended front and rear shocks so I'm good there.
I understand... it?s tough coming up with the right combo.
No, no need to change coil springs. I?m glad you got it shipped.... I?ll bet you?re ready as hell.
Congrats.
Mark
OrangeCrush
11-26-2011, 05:56 PM
So what?s your thought?
I had decided to go with the 40?s once I get the lift installed. The 40?s basically come in 15.5 inches wide. I?m thinking since the 38?s also come in 15.50? wide, it would make them look much wider since they are the same width but shorter.
Right now, my 37?s Open Country?s are measuring 35.5? tall adn a set of 38?s are almost 38? tall. Point is, it would not only open up a larger choices (as opposed to the 40?s) but would still be almost 2? taller.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Mark
2010_5thgen
11-28-2011, 05:45 PM
i was planning on going with the toyo 38x13.5x20 when i do my rancho lift. ive noticed not alot of guys running 38's. seems like its either 37's or 40's. whys that?
OrangeCrush
11-28-2011, 05:58 PM
i was planning on going with the toyo 38x13.5x20 when i do my rancho lift. ive noticed not alot of guys running 38's. seems like its either 37's or 40's. whys that?
Well, anything smaller than 37's is too small so that only leaves 37,8 or 40's... and most people can't run the 40's cause they still rub.
At that point, you're left with 37's or 38's, may as well go with the bigger ones.
I'll be selling my 37's if you need some Toyo's. Tread is exactly half left.
Mark
2010_5thgen
11-28-2011, 06:08 PM
is there a reason why no alot dont do 38's though? just limits the options? or is it something with rubbing?
and i would do the 37's but might as well get 1 more inch right?
OrangeCrush
11-28-2011, 06:58 PM
is there a reason why no alot dont do 38's though? just limits the options? or is it something with rubbing?
and i would do the 37's but might as well get 1 more inch right?
That's the problem in many cases... that "one more inch" sometimes rubs. (I tried telling my wife to rub it and she'd get one inch but oh well.... :D )
But yes, if you'e going to go to 37's, if you have the room, you may as well go to 38's.
Mark
2010_5thgen
11-28-2011, 07:12 PM
thats what i figured. and the rancho kit can fit up to 40's, so i figured id be ok with the 38. i dont forsee myself wanting 40's so ill stick with the 38's.
and yeah, i tell my wife the same thing:giggling:
tyler1bo
11-28-2011, 07:34 PM
Also 38's and higher get harder and harder to balance..38's would look mean though. You should be able to fit them with the rancho. It mainly depends on the rim backspacing and offset.
2010_5thgen
11-28-2011, 08:29 PM
wheels are 4.5" backspacing and -25 offset.
charles06
11-28-2011, 09:35 PM
I've been through two sets of Toyo 38's without one issue of balancing. I actually spoke to a guy who worked at 4Wheel Parts, and he had the same tires, didn't balance them, and had no shake.
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 12:44 AM
That's good if you haven't, that's just going by what my local offroad installer said. But i think he can do it. I would rather have the extra inch with the 38's but either one would look fine. Are you going to 40's any time soon? ;)
OrangeCrush
11-29-2011, 01:19 AM
thats what i figured. and the rancho kit can fit up to 40's, so i figured id be ok with the 38. i dont forsee myself wanting 40's so ill stick with the 38's.
and yeah, i tell my wife the same thing:giggling:
You can’t put 40’s on just the rancho kit. My last H2 had a fabtech and the torsion bars cranked up and I could only stick 38’s on it.
This H2 has the Rancho kit and my keys arrived today. I think I’ll get them installed and see if I can get my bigger tires installed.
That's good if you haven't, that's just going by what my local offroad installer said. But i think he can do it. I would rather have the extra inch with the 38's but either one would look fine. Are you going to 40's any time soon? ;)
Who are you asking if they’re going to 40’s?
Mark
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 02:26 AM
charles haha..You should be able to fit the 40's on yours. I know jonny did it but he said they rubbed slightly (that was the rancho, UCA, and truxxx lift stacked) so he got the 2" body lift to eliminate that. But that all could have come from his rims.
charles06
11-29-2011, 03:54 PM
I'm still on the fence right now. The truck drives so nicely as it sits. Plus, I'm not sure if I want to spend close to $6,000 on wheels/tires with Christmas coming up. Although, I could buy them for myself as a Christmas/birthday present. My birthday is the 15th...don't you guys forget it.
OrangeCrush
11-29-2011, 04:01 PM
I'm still on the fence right now. The truck drives so nicely as it sits. Plus, I'm not sure if I want to spend close to $6,000 on wheels/tires with Christmas coming up. Although, I could buy them for myself as a Christmas/birthday present. My birthday is the 15th...don't you guys forget it.
Well, my birthday is on the 22nd so here's the deal. I'll buy you a set of wheels and tires and you do the same for me. :D (it's not my fault I want bigger tires)
Happy early birthday!
Mark
charles06
11-29-2011, 04:15 PM
Haha. If you want 38's, you can buy mine. They only have about 5,000 miles on them. And the spare is brand new.
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 05:00 PM
What are both of your thoughts on your lifts? Mark's got the rancho and you've got the fabtech..how is the ride quality on them? Any comments? I'm fixing to be in the market and kinda juggling some brands. I think BDS is out (discontinued), bulletproof would be awesome I would think, haven't heard many things about fabtech, heard lots of good things about rancho.
charles06
11-29-2011, 05:14 PM
I'm happy with my Fabtech kit. But truthfully, I made so many other changes, it's hard to say how well just the kit has performed. All the parts have held up fine, though.
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 05:22 PM
I saw a lifted SUT in one of my surrounding towns (very rare)..had the fabtech kit with the dual shock setup, dirt logics I believe. But it looked very good, I think he was running irok's in either 39.5 or 41's. And to my surprise, the truck was big, but not ungodly big to wear you couldn't drive it. Not any worse than a lifted diesel. haha. I'm so excited about going up
charles06
11-29-2011, 06:25 PM
I bought the truck used and it already had the kit on it, including the dual shock set-up. It had the standard shocks, and the shock hoops kept coming loose. I eventually took them off, and realized that the shocks were pointless. I could compress them by hand, and I'm not a big guy.
2010_5thgen
11-29-2011, 06:40 PM
You can?t put 40?s on just the rancho kit. My last H2 had a fabtech and the torsion bars cranked up and I could only stick 38?s on it.
This H2 has the Rancho kit and my keys arrived today. I think I?ll get them installed and see if I can get my bigger tires installed.
Who are you asking if they?re going to 40?s?
Mark
ranchos web site says you can fit up to 40".
2010_5thgen
11-29-2011, 06:43 PM
Haha. If you want 38's, you can buy mine. They only have about 5,000 miles on them. And the spare is brand new.
how much for the tires? and only 5K on them? so lots of tread left? im very intersted. pm me or you can email me any info black5thgen@yahoo.com
OrangeCrush
11-29-2011, 06:54 PM
What are both of your thoughts on your lifts? Mark's got the rancho and you've got the fabtech..how is the ride quality on them? Any comments? I'm fixing to be in the market and kinda juggling some brands. I think BDS is out (discontinued), bulletproof would be awesome I would think, haven't heard many things about fabtech, heard lots of good things about rancho.
I installed the fabtech on my first H2 and the Rancho on this one. I honestly can't tell a difference in ride, installation (ease or lack thereof) or height. If I were to do it again, I'd go with a higher lift.
Not any worse than a lifted diesel. haha. I'm so excited about going up
Ahhhh, I see... you got jokes. :raar:
:D
how much for the tires? and only 5K on them? so lots of tread left? im very intersted. pm me or you can email me any info black5thgen@yahoo.com
Ahhhhh, shaddup..... he offered it to me first. :crying:
ranchos web site says you can fit up to 40".
And I say I'm hung like a pornstar....
but it ain't true.... :D
(okay, the rancho part isn't...)
Mark
2010_5thgen
11-29-2011, 06:59 PM
have at em then.
and found this on ranchos web site.....3rd line .... http://gorancho.com/suspension.php?make=Hummer&model=03_10_hummer_h2#lift
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 07:04 PM
hahaha..mark I laughed after I posted that. And 2010_5thgen the rancho will probably fit the 40's, BUT you most likely will run into rubbing. It's not quite high enough to clear 40's successfully. From what I hear around 7.5-8" will do it. If you do put 40's on just the rancho it will looked very stuffed.
2010_5thgen
11-29-2011, 07:06 PM
im not planning on running 40's. 38's will suit me fine.
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 07:07 PM
I bought the truck used and it already had the kit on it, including the dual shock set-up. It had the standard shocks, and the shock hoops kept coming loose. I eventually took them off, and realized that the shocks were pointless. I could compress them by hand, and I'm not a big guy.
I honestly think they're for show purposes..I've heard they aren't much at all. MAYBE a little more shock absorption, but not much. haha. I think it's just a way to spend more dough on shocks.
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 07:10 PM
I think 38's are the way to go unless you're really thinking about some lift ;) the only thing about 38's are the width's..the toyo's have the 13.50's, kinda skinny for the height, and REALLY fat, 15.50's.
2010_5thgen
11-29-2011, 07:14 PM
i thought about that and thought that may afffect the handling. but with upgrading from a 17 to a 20" wheel, id be surprised if it didnt seem to tighten up the handling a bit. i dont think i have the right offset or width wheel to do a 15.50 wide tire.
OrangeCrush
11-29-2011, 07:17 PM
have at em then.
and found this on ranchos web site.....3rd line .... http://gorancho.com/suspension.php?make=Hummer&model=03_10_hummer_h2#lift
Oh, no doubting you... I just meant it won't happen. (at least on my kit) I'll bet I could get 38's on there but that's it. There is no way I could get 40's on my truck now.
Mark
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 07:25 PM
i thought about that and thought that may afffect the handling. but with upgrading from a 17 to a 20" wheel, id be surprised if it didnt seem to tighten up the handling a bit. i dont think i have the right offset or width wheel to do a 15.50 wide tire.
I know a guy who is running the 15.50's and he said it handles beautifully..And you don't necessarily HAVE to have a super wide tire to run the 15.50's..Roushdemon ran 20X10 on them and they were fine. But I hear that the 15.50's have so much grip that it really wears on the steering components.
2010_5thgen
11-29-2011, 07:48 PM
not to mention how much worse they will be on gas mileage.
tyler1bo
11-29-2011, 07:58 PM
haha..oh yeah. Programmer and regearing would bring some of it back though.
slippy
12-01-2011, 11:28 AM
I bought the truck used and it already had the kit on it, including the dual shock set-up. It had the standard shocks, and the shock hoops kept coming loose. I eventually took them off, and realized that the shocks were pointless. I could compress them by hand, and I'm not a big guy.
are both shocks easy to compress? or the just the second shock for the dual hoop setup?
charles06
12-01-2011, 06:30 PM
The four shocks that came out of the shock hoops were worthless. You really only need one, well-valved shock for vehicles.
OrangeCrush
12-06-2011, 02:42 AM
So about a month ago, I was going to the track with my mini cooper. I wanted to adjust the suspension to remove some of the camber so I ordered a set of Hotchkins adjustable lower control arms.
When I put the car on the lift, I discovered that when I rebuilt the car after I totalled it at the track last year, I had already replaced them with the identical control arms.
Fast forward today. When I decided to lift the H2 to get 40?s under it, I ordered a set of keys to crank up the front end and a set of spacers under the rear springs.
So today I finally got a chance to install my new keys. Once pulled, I realized they were IDENTICAL to the ones I had already installed. What a freakin? moron.
On the bright side, cranking up the keys gave me an add?l 3?. When I install the rear spacers, I?ll level the truck off and raise or lower the front as necc.
Mark
PS. Anyone want a brand new set of keys to raise your front end, I?ve got a set, $90 shipped.
PSS. When I received the H2 back from the duramax conversion, I received a set of torsion bars out of the HD2500 that the engine came out of. I installed them into the H2 today and they?re definitely bigger. I can?t tell if the extra (not much but noticeable) stiffness is from cranking them up to 3? or using the thicker torsion bars. Thoughts?
PaHumBug
12-07-2011, 10:21 PM
So about a month ago, I was going to the track with my mini cooper. I wanted to adjust the suspension to remove some of the camber so I ordered a set of Hotchkins adjustable lower control arms.
When I put the car on the lift, I discovered that when I rebuilt the car after I totalled it at the track last year, I had already replaced them with the identical control arms.
Fast forward today. When I decided to lift the H2 to get 40’s under it, I ordered a set of keys to crank up the front end and a set of spacers under the rear springs.
So today I finally got a chance to install my new keys. Once pulled, I realized they were IDENTICAL to the ones I had already installed. What a freakin’ moron.
On the bright side, cranking up the keys gave me an add’l 3”. When I install the rear spacers, I’ll level the truck off and raise or lower the front as necc.
Mark
PS. Anyone want a brand new set of keys to raise your front end, I’ve got a set, $90 shipped.
PSS. When I received the H2 back from the duramax conversion, I received a set of torsion bars out of the HD2500 that the engine came out of. I installed them into the H2 today and they’re definitely bigger. I can’t tell if the extra (not much but noticeable) stiffness is from cranking them up to 3” or using the thicker torsion bars. Thoughts?
I thought you were going to say that when you went to convert your truck to deisel, you discovered that you already converted it... :giggling:
I'm no expert but my guess is the stiffness is from both, cranking and thicker bars, but the majority of it is from the thicker bars.
tyler1bo
12-07-2011, 10:46 PM
Yeah if he's running out of room cranking the keys it'll ride rougher..haha. Funny story you having the identical pieces already installed though.
guruerror
12-07-2011, 10:46 PM
I thought you were going to say that when you went to convert your truck to deisel, you discovered that you already converted it... :giggling:
I'm no expert but my guess is the stiffness is from both, cranking and thicker bars, but the majority of it is from the thicker bars.
How long before the torsion bars start to 'wear out?' I noticed the other day that the bolt on my passenger side is cranked further than my driver's side to get the same lift. Is that an indication that the passenger side bar is weaker than the driver's?
...and if so, when it comes time to replace them, would I benefit from a more heavy duty bar?
...and, come to think of it, why doesn't the H2 already have the 2500 HD bars?!?
Yeah...I'm full of questions this afternoon.
adamw89_2000
12-07-2011, 11:00 PM
my front end shop say they will not wear out as you speak of.. i asked same ? top them. they said they have never seen a vehicle with wore out torsions bars.. reason one is cranked more than the other is what is called the " chevy lean" every gm pickup has the same problem.. 2wd or 4wd apparently. im not sure why gm does this( maybe to compensate for the weight of gas tank and etc. ?)
guruerror
12-07-2011, 11:28 PM
my front end shop say they will not wear out as you speak of.. i asked same ? top them. they said they have never seen a vehicle with wore out torsions bars.. reason one is cranked more than the other is what is called the " chevy lean" every gm pickup has the same problem.. 2wd or 4wd apparently. im not sure why gm does this( maybe to compensate for the weight of gas tank and etc. ?)
The 'chevy lean'...LOL! Well, you learn something new every day!
OrangeCrush
12-08-2011, 12:23 AM
my front end shop say they will not wear out as you speak of.. i asked same ? top them. they said they have never seen a vehicle with wore out torsions bars.. reason one is cranked more than the other is what is called the " chevy lean" every gm pickup has the same problem.. 2wd or 4wd apparently. im not sure why gm does this( maybe to compensate for the weight of gas tank and etc. ?)
For every GM that I've lifted, I have had this same thing happen. One bolt is always in more than the other.
The ironic part is out all the vehicles I have ever done, yesterday, I installed the torsion bars, cranked the bolts back in the same distance and the truck is the EXACT same height all the way around. Usually, one side is 1/2-3/4" lower than the other side. No measuring, no fuss, no muss, just bolt in and it worked perfect. (for once)
I did however back the bolts down 4 full turns and the truck rides better and didn't change in height at all.
Today I had an alignment and tonight I order my tires. After much discussion, measuring and thought, I have decided to go with the Toyo's again in 40".
They're great tires (though I would have liked to have a more aggressive look) and hopefully I won't have to trim anything. (keeping fingers crossed)
Mark
TTLex
12-08-2011, 03:13 AM
Just about everyone of these trucks will have one bolt in further than the other on the torsion adjustment, no worries there. Also, you can crank the stock bars up or use the green keys/ aftermarket keys and crank less......either way you are getting the same quality of ride, meaning it wont be more stiff or less stiff either way. The aftermarket keys just give you more adjustment due to the indexing of the keys (starting point) than the stock keys. Either way you are putting the same amount of tension on them.
I have the Fabtech 6" lift on my H2 and I was running 38's, they matched up perfectly with that lift in my opinion. I just switched them out for Toyo 40x15.5x20's on the Fuel Octane 20x12 wheels. They look freaking killer but they do rub at full lock on the back front fender flare (closest to the doors). I am running the E&G aftermarket flares, but I think they would rub regardless. I can trim it out there and problem would be solved, but Im trying a different route right now.
I just put in suspension maxx 1.5" spacer in the rear and I have some green keys that I am putting in tomorrow. I have my stock keys cranked just about all the way, an I am sitting roughly 3/4 in lower in the front than the back with the spacers. Im going to install the green keys and crank them to level with the rear, this will definitely solve my rubbing issue. Hopefully I wont have any vibration issues from any of the normal areas to be concerned with. I also put the cognito UCA's in which significantly changed the ball joint placement for the better at the cranked height. I think its going to work out fine.
The one issue that I did notice is that when I put the rear spacers in, the rear end moved out to the right of the truck roughly 3/4" to 1" due to the increased height and stock length panhard bar. To remedy that I ordered a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. Thats going on tomorrow as well, and that will pull the axle back over to where its supposed to be. The Spohn piece is the only adjustable panhard bar I could find, and it is a real nice quality piece (looks like it anyhow).
So tomorrow its install green keys, install and adjust panhard bar, off to the alignment and see where we are. Its amazing how much different 1.5" looks.
One side note...these freaking keys are not easy to install without the proper tool. Being the kinda guy I am, I didnt want to spend $100 on a one time use tool. We took a large C clamp and welded a nub on the top to fit like the real tool does. Go the old keys out no problem, bent the **** out of it trying to get the green keys back in. So we went with a larger and beefier clamp.....bent the **** out of it too. Tomorrow we are trying a 7 ton 2 jaw gear puller that others have used succesfully. Crossing my fingers.....at this point I am determined to not buy the tool.....im hard headed!
tyler1bo
12-08-2011, 03:27 AM
Pics when finished please!!
OrangeCrush
12-08-2011, 04:12 AM
The aftermarket keys just give you more adjustment due to the indexing of the keys (starting point) than the stock keys. Either way you are putting the same amount of tension on them.
Actually, you’re not... that’s the whole point of using the keys. You can get the same lift without the same pressure/tension on a set of green or aftermarket keys.
They look freaking killer but they do rub at full lock on the back front fender flare (closest to the doors).
How much trimming would you think you’d have to do? (I’m assuming you’re trimming just the bottom couple of inches if you had to trim??)
I just put in suspension maxx 1.5" spacer in the rear and I have some green keys that I am putting in tomorrow. I have my stock keys cranked just about all the way, an I am sitting roughly 3/4 in lower in the front than the back with the spacers. Im going to install the green keys and crank them to level with the rear,
The green key will allow you to level the truck out and I’ll bet the ride will be the same as it is now. When I installed the spacers in the rear yesterday, they were 2” and cranking up the torsion bars made it level but tight (er)
The one issue that I did notice is that when I put the rear spacers in, the rear end moved out to the right of the truck roughly 3/4" to 1" due to the increased height and stock length panhard bar. To remedy that I ordered a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. Thats going on tomorrow as well, and that will pull the axle back over to where its supposed to be. The Spohn piece is the only adjustable panhard bar I could find, and it is a real nice quality piece (looks like it anyhow).
I’m glad you mentioned that... I was worried about that when I lifted it some more but forgot to check it out after the alignment. I’ll bet it kicked my rear end out to one side.
I’ll check it out tomorrow. If it is, I guess I’ll be ordering the same bar. Thanks for the suggestion.
So tomorrow its install green keys, install and adjust panhard bar, off to the alignment and see where we are. Its amazing how much different 1.5" looks.
One side note...these freaking keys are not easy to install without the proper tool. Being the kinda guy I am, I didnt want to spend $100 on a one time use tool. We took a large C clamp and welded a nub on the top to fit like the real tool does. Go the old keys out no problem, bent the **** out of it trying to get the green keys back in. So we went with a larger and beefier clamp.....bent the **** out of it too. Tomorrow we are trying a 7 ton 2 jaw gear puller that others have used succesfully. Crossing my fingers.....at this point I am determined to not buy the tool.....im hard headed!
LOL, you cheap bastard, just go buy the right tool. I tried the C clamp method and if you get the right one, you can make it work but it’s not worth it, IMO.
My clamp was $169 bucks but worth every penny.
I ordered tires tonight, I’ll post pics in a week or so when they arrive.
Mark
TTLex
12-08-2011, 04:22 AM
LOL, you cheap bastard, just go buy the right tool.
No ****, I just bought the cognito UCA's, cognito steering components, Kryptonite tie rods, rancho stabilizer, new wheels and tires, green keys, spacers, panhard bar, and a warn light bar with 4 PIAA's.......yet I cant bring myself to buy a $150 tool!:notallthere:
Actually, you’re not... that’s the whole point of using the keys. You can get the same lift without the same pressure/tension on a set of green or aftermarket keys.
I gotta disagree with you on this one. The point of the aftermarket keys is they allow you to adjust further than the stock keys, it has nothing to do with the tension. For example, I could pull the stock keys out and put them back in with my make shift c clamp tool, yet I couldnt get the green keys back in without bending it. The reason being is the green keys indexing already puts a certain amount of tension on the bars out of the gate. The green keys are like having the stock keys cranked up almost all the way, yet gives you more room to keep adjusting. Less adjustment to get to the same place, yet same amount of tension on the bars.
OrangeCrush
12-08-2011, 04:40 AM
No ****, I just bought the cognito UCA's, cognito steering components, Kryptonite tie rods, rancho stabilizer, new wheels and tires, green keys, spacers, panhard bar, and a warn light bar with 4 PIAA's.......yet I cant bring myself to buy a $150 tool!:notallthere:
:clapping:
LOL
I gotta disagree with you on this one. The point of the aftermarket keys is they allow you to adjust further than the stock keys, it has nothing to do with the tension. For example, I could pull the stock keys out and put them back in with my make shift c clamp tool, yet I couldnt get the green keys back in without bending it. The reason being is the green keys indexing already puts a certain amount of tension on the bars out of the gate. The green keys are like having the stock keys cranked up almost all the way, yet gives you more room to keep adjusting. Less adjustment to get to the same place, yet same amount of tension on the bars.
Hmmmm, makes sense, we?ll go with your explanation...lol.
Post pics, I wanna see it.
Mark
guruerror
12-08-2011, 03:09 PM
...I gotta disagree with you on this one. The point of the aftermarket keys is they allow you to adjust further than the stock keys, it has nothing to do with the tension. For example, I could pull the stock keys out and put them back in with my make shift c clamp tool, yet I couldnt get the green keys back in without bending it. The reason being is the green keys indexing already puts a certain amount of tension on the bars out of the gate. The green keys are like having the stock keys cranked up almost all the way, yet gives you more room to keep adjusting. Less adjustment to get to the same place, yet same amount of tension on the bars.
There's a good .doc attachment about torsion bars in this thread: http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18933&highlight=torsion+bar+wearing
Another benefit of the aftermarket keys (Green, Truxxx, etc.) is that they reduce the tension/stress on the adjustment bolts. Apparently cranking the bolts all the way technically pushes them beyond their load capacity because it creates a 'side load' on the bolt itself.
It's a pretty informative read....
TTLex
12-08-2011, 03:14 PM
yeah, to be honest with you Im actually happy with the amount of lift in the front with the stock keys, but one of the adusters is maxed out, and the other is about 90% maxed out on adjustment. I figured it would be better to have the green keys and not be maxed out on the adjustment, and then get that extra 3/4" while I was at it.
TTLex
12-08-2011, 09:53 PM
Orange, I installed the Spohn adjustable panhard today, easy install, real nice piece. I havent adjusted it yet, but it looks easy to do. There customer service was great too. I called at 3pm on monday to order, i had a tracking number at 3:30, and had the bar tuesday afternoon. Cant beat that!
pwrhse2k
12-09-2011, 02:55 AM
:dancingbanana: Just about everyone of these trucks will have one bolt in further than the other on the torsion adjustment, no worries there. Also, you can crank the stock bars up or use the green keys/ aftermarket keys and crank less......either way you are getting the same quality of ride, meaning it wont be more stiff or less stiff either way. The aftermarket keys just give you more adjustment due to the indexing of the keys (starting point) than the stock keys. Either way you are putting the same amount of tension on them.
I have the Fabtech 6" lift on my H2 and I was running 38's, they matched up perfectly with that lift in my opinion. I just switched them out for Toyo 40x15.5x20's on the Fuel Octane 20x12 wheels. They look freaking killer but they do rub at full lock on the back front fender flare (closest to the doors). I am running the E&G aftermarket flares, but I think they would rub regardless. I can trim it out there and problem would be solved, but Im trying a different route right now.
I just put in suspension maxx 1.5" spacer in the rear and I have some green keys that I am putting in tomorrow. I have my stock keys cranked just about all the way, an I am sitting roughly 3/4 in lower in the front than the back with the spacers. Im going to install the green keys and crank them to level with the rear, this will definitely solve my rubbing issue. Hopefully I wont have any vibration issues from any of the normal areas to be concerned with. I also put the cognito UCA's in which significantly changed the ball joint placement for the better at the cranked height. I think its going to work out fine.
The one issue that I did notice is that when I put the rear spacers in, the rear end moved out to the right of the truck roughly 3/4" to 1" due to the increased height and stock length panhard bar. To remedy that I ordered a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. Thats going on tomorrow as well, and that will pull the axle back over to where its supposed to be. The Spohn piece is the only adjustable panhard bar I could find, and it is a real nice quality piece (looks like it anyhow).
So tomorrow its install green keys, install and adjust panhard bar, off to the alignment and see where we are. Its amazing how much different 1.5" looks.
One side note...these freaking keys are not easy to install without the proper tool. Being the kinda guy I am, I didnt want to spend $100 on a one time use tool. We took a large C clamp and welded a nub on the top to fit like the real tool does. Go the old keys out no problem, bent the **** out of it trying to get the green keys back in. So we went with a larger and beefier clamp.....bent the **** out of it too. Tomorrow we are trying a 7 ton 2 jaw gear puller that others have used succesfully. Crossing my fingers.....at this point I am determined to not buy the tool.....im hard headed!
Yo Jeff, I was looking forward to helping you wrench on your suspension upgrade, but you just left me hangin'. LOL All good, I'd like to see your set-up...What'cha got goin' on this weekend? I can show you my BADASS DMAXED H2 while I'm there. :dancingbanana:
TTLex
12-09-2011, 04:39 AM
I wish I could sit here and say that I actually did the wrenching. This is my busy season at work, so I dropped it off at my buddys shop, he did the tie rods, UCA's and pitman support stuff for me. We both did the springs and keys the other day. He has a full blown speed shop, its so much easier pulling up on a lift and using the air tools and such to do the job. The down side is I have to do it around his paying customers, usually at 7 at night. I just got back from putting the keys in.....and Im proud to say I successfully did it without the correct tool. We used a 7 ton gear puller, worked perfectly.
IM out of town this weekend, but I would definitely be into meeting up sometime soon.
OrangeCrush
12-09-2011, 05:40 AM
I wish I could sit here and say that I actually did the wrenching. This is my busy season at work, so I dropped it off at my buddys shop, he did the tie rods, UCA's and pitman support stuff for me. We both did the springs and keys the other day. He has a full blown speed shop, its so much easier pulling up on a lift and using the air tools and such to do the job. The down side is I have to do it around his paying customers, usually at 7 at night. I just got back from putting the keys in.....and Im proud to say I successfully did it without the correct tool. We used a 7 ton gear puller, worked perfectly.
IM out of town this weekend, but I would definitely be into meeting up sometime soon.
Dude, I completely understand. I?m fully capable of doing the work on my own truck but I had to have one of my guys install my balljoints and new tie rod ends. I simply don?t have the time right now, we?ve been SLAMMED!!!
Anyway, update on my setup....
I dropped the H2 back off at the dealer. They installed a steering box last week and it?s still not quite right. I dropped the truck off this morning and have been informed that I now need a power steering pump.
I ordered my 40? Toyo MT?s last night, they?ll be here by Monday.
I?ll post pics next week.
Mark
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