UNBREAKABLE

[Steve R]

As Dennis is so fond of saying: a picture is worth 1000 words...

You bitched for it...and here it is:

[Steve R]

As Dennis is so fond of saying: a picture is worth 1000 words...

You bitched for it...and here it is:

[Steve R]

air-craft quality, chrome-moly, thick-walled, high-angle heim-connectors.

It's in testing phase

No, it's not available yet

Yes, when it is....you'll be quick to know!

very very very VERY strong

[Steve R]

You're gonna need a much bigger cookie jar!

[Steve R]

That section that broke (on your tie-rod) is just over 1/2"

Don't let the pic fool ya....that center section is thick-walled chromemoly hardened alloy and is 1 1/4" thick

It weighs about the same but is about 10x stronger. If you put the stock part next to this part....it would blow you away....it's just the pic playin' games...no reference, but it's the only pic I have http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif

[DennisAJC]

http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif



"A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words."

[crash]

you do understand those type of parts are not dot aproved..(heims)

certified H2 tech.

[Steve R]

It's not my part....

As I understand it, it's the same parts used on NASCAR's and other high-performance vehicles. I've seen the same set-up on Rudy's way-lifted H2.

The Heim-connector is rated much much higher then the ball-joint. Btw, Alec....this eliminates the ball-joint altogether.

[crash]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve R:
It's not my part....

As I understand it, it's the same parts used on NASCAR's and other high-performance vehicles. I've seen the same set-up on Rudy's way-lifted H2.

The Heim-connector is rated much much higher then the ball-joint. Btw, Alec....this eliminates the ball-joint altogether.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I fully understand that, and I run the same things on my rig(mine does not see street use). But, you have 2 things to remember when you go that way, cops and liability(both in the heim and welded steering components). I suggest a larger TRE and use good quality metal (like 4140 chromo) sleeve, that would be way legal and way strong if you use the right TRE's

certified H2 tech.

[Steve R]

Crash...

I'd only be bluffing if I were to pretend I know exactly what you're talking about.

Perhaps I'll have my friend get in touch with you. In the end, we're just trying to strenghten a very weak situation...I'm certain you can appreciate that.

Safety is always the primary concern. When I questioned it, I got back info that supported these connnectors being rated to 32,000 pounds and other data which far surpassed the OEM set-up.

I'm always eager to learn...what more can you explain/tell us?

[crash]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve R:
Crash...

I'd only be bluffing if I were to pretend I know exactly what you're talking about.

Perhaps I'll have my friend get in touch with you. In the end, we're just trying to strenghten a very weak situation...I'm certain you can appreciate that.

Safety is always the primary concern. When I questioned it, I got back info that supported these connnectors being rated to 32,000 pounds and other data which far surpassed the OEM set-up.

I'm always eager to learn...what more can you explain/tell us?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Don't get me wrong steve, thats a killer idea, if it was not going to hit the road. And yes, the load rating on any TRE (Tie Rod End) is not near what a good quality hiem, but there are no safty factor to a hiem if the strapping around the ball breaks(I have seen a couple go, but after hard,brutal hits). I have some #'s of TRE's at home that we use for steering parts that can withstand some good work outs, and have not had any failures, and if I get out of my shop tonight at a decent hour I will post those part #'s (gm taper with 3/4x18 threaded end)

And here is a link to a rig I am almost done building for a guy so ya don't think I am some Bs'er and I actually know what I am doing,lol...
http://forums.cj-8.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4154

certified H2 tech.

[Steve R]

Crash...

Thanks for the info. I think members of this forum have you confused as some kind of jeeper-troll...so please excuse what may have been less then a warm welcome. As I understand it...your a certified H2 technician..how so is that? (just curious, not interogating).

Why are hiem-connectors widly used in heavy-duty applications but not on the street? is it just because they have not been DOT cert'd?

We actually ran into a problem. The connectors were smooth at first and all was well, but over some short time, particularly while moving slowly along the trail...the intense heat from the brakes/rotors caused the outside hiem's to actually glaze.....in no time my H2 was a wild squeek machine!

The current idea is to move towards connectors with grease-fittings, but those are actually rated as lower-strength. Even with the lower strength they are still several times stronger then the ball-joint connector we already have.

My thought was just to sleeve the rod, but that won't help the ball-joint. Also, all failures are exactly as Alec depicted above.

Makes me thing....it used to be "speak quietly and carry a big stick"...perhaps it should be "drive slowly and carry a spare tie-rod"??

[Cranky Steve]

Crash is a Journeyman tech at a GM dealer. He's the real deal fo sho!

Founding Member of RCRC 4wd Club Scaramento, CA www.rcrc4x4.com (http://www.rcrc4x4.com)
Pirate4x4.com Vendor & Toyota Truck and 4Runner Talk Forum Moderator

[RockYoda]

Steve,

Alot of rockcrawling guys were using Hiem-connections on their steering and had numerious problems, like falling apart after use. Its not the actual strength that is involved its the fatigue factor that plays with Hiems especially in a daily driven truck. Most guys have gone back to or are using HD TREs. They are easy to replace when you are far far from home and fairly cheap too. Hope this helps..

[crash]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve R:
Crash...

Thanks for the info. I think members of this forum have you confused as some kind of jeeper-troll...so please excuse what may have been less then a warm welcome. As I understand it...your a certified H2 technician..how so is that? (just curious, not interogating).

Why are hiem-connectors widly used in heavy-duty applications but not on the street? is it just because they have not been DOT cert'd?

We actually ran into a problem. The connectors were smooth at first and all was well, but over some short time, particularly while moving slowly along the trail...the intense heat from the brakes/rotors caused the outside hiem's to actually glaze.....in no time my H2 was a wild squeek machine!

The current idea is to move towards connectors with grease-fittings, but those are actually rated as lower-strength. Even with the lower strength they are still several times stronger then the ball-joint connector we already have.

My thought was just to sleeve the rod, but that won't help the ball-joint. Also, all failures are exactly as Alec depicted above.

Makes me thing....it used to be "speak quietly and carry a big stick"...perhaps it should be "drive slowly and carry a spare tie-rod"??<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Its all good steve, not a troll (at least I don't try to be) but I am pretty opinionated (and that comes from experiance more than anything)

I have been at the same dealer for 15 years(specialize in engine performance/electrical) and have taken a few H2 cert programs so I guess you could say I am well qualifien in them,lol (now the H1's, thats a whole different mess)

Yes, they are not DOT certified, and thats one reason the rigs I buiuld for street use, don't get them, and as rock yoda said, they do bust, but I am guessing that comes from using poor quality or just from the nature of how they are used/abused.

I honestly think a bigger TRE and good material for the sleve is going to be the answer for you guys...

certified H2 tech.

[Steve R]

Crash...

I'll pass the advice on, thanks! Btw...just click on the "quote" button and delete the parts of what I wrote that are not pertinent...keeps the thread shorter & easier to read...just a tip.

Thanks!