2 Inch Lift on H2. [Archive] - Hummer Forums by Elcova

HumminNBoatin'

01-19-2009, 09:21 PM

I am looking to lift my truck. But I dont want a 4inch or 6 inch lift. I just want a little bit of lift. Somewhere around 2 inches. Anyway I have a couple of questions and thought I would post my plan and see what you guys think.

Front End:
Currently the front end is all stock. I was thininking of cranking the T-Bars for another 1 1/2 - 2 inches for height.

But how far is the max I can crank for height before I max it out? I want to be sure that I can leave at least 1 full inch of upward motion if not more before whe arms hit the bump stops

Also how far can i lift without putting too much stress on the CV's and Tierods??? Is an 1 1/2 - 2 inches really going to stress them that much more??

I would also probubly get new shocks as well. I am currently running the original ones so im sure after the adjustment they would be rendered usless pretty quickly??

Back End:
I currently HAVE factory Air ride.

I was thinking I would really like the truck to ride at its extened ride height all the time in the rear with the possibility to raise it yet another 2-3 inches when pressing the ride height button on the dash.

I have some questions about that:
Can I just adjust the height sensors to make it ride higher and trick the computer?? Then press the button and get another 2 inches??
My gut tells me this will not work as the bags will not expand that far.

I was really thinking of placing a hockey puck under the air bag to help with this.

If raising this high, am I staring to change the geometry of the rear end too much. Trailing Arms? Drive Shaft? Brake Lines?

Any insite would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Eric

OrangeCrush

01-20-2009, 07:42 PM

When I had my '03 H2, I installed the fabtech 6" kit. It was an excellent product but unfortunately along with a liftkit went bigger tires, different gears and supercharger.

Too much for my daily driver...

Having said that, last week I picked up an '06 SUT. I installed the torsion keys and raised the truck up 2 1/2". With a 2" taller tire, that raised the truck up an add'l 1".

3 - 3 1/2" inches was perfect for what I was looking to accomplish. Here's a pic of before and after.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/MyBlueC5/H2/IMAG0026.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/MyBlueC5/H2/IMAG0063.jpg

The best part is the ride.... virtually unchanged.

Mark

hdmlnium

01-20-2009, 08:54 PM

HumminNBoatin'

01-20-2009, 10:17 PM

Well the hard part for me is the Rear End Lift. I have Air Ride. I want to keep its functionality. I need to find out if there are spacers for the air bags.

NJ H2

01-21-2009, 02:33 PM

DuckTruck

01-21-2009, 03:57 PM

You might also look into the 2-3" cognito lift. I am also looking to go this route.

DUCK

HumminNBoatin'

01-21-2009, 05:22 PM

I not really a fan of the cognito kit. The reality is you can use the OE upper A-Arms and just have it aligned unless you want to push the front end to the max. I am not looking to go all the way with the front end. Just up a little. Also the rear end is where I have more questions than anything. I am going to call Travis over at Rubber Duck as he may know more about what to do in the rear.

DuckTruck

01-22-2009, 04:43 PM

"to the max".......that's exactly what I intend to do and run 40"s

DUCK

SummitUp

01-22-2009, 06:42 PM

I just did the Truxxx lift kit on my 08 H2 sut. It is a 2"-3" in front with different keys and shock extenders and in the rear it is 1.25" coil spacers.. Took about an hour and a half to install and am very happy with the kit. It was $315.00 shipped.
I'd like to impart some valuable info to anyone who wants to do the torsion bar lift. IMO it's a waste of money to pay $267 for the <Truxx Torsion Bar Keys> (http://truxxx.com/hummer_products/405020-hum.htm) with the shock extender brackets when for $44 ($22 each) you can buy the same keys from <gmparts direct> (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com). Just order GM Part # 15592573.

With the money you save, you can buy quality Bilstein shocks which are longer and do away with the shock extenders. it's a much better way to go IMO.

Here's a photo I took which shows the difference between the OEM stock key on the H2 compared to the GM Part # 15592573.

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj360/Colorado_Breeze/H2%20Tech/chevy_greenkey.jpg

Boss Hoss

01-22-2009, 08:07 PM

DuckTruck

01-22-2009, 08:44 PM

SummitUp

01-22-2009, 09:45 PM

SummitUp......I agree with you 100%. If all someone is looking to do is crank the t-bars, then the keys you mentioned above from GM and some longer shocks is the way to go.

However, if you want to gain 2-3" of lift, with better articulation, alignment, etc. than I think the kit I mentioned from Cognito is the way to go.DUCK
I couldn't agree more. I raised my front end a full 3" to accommodate the 37" KM2's. If the front end is cranked a full 3" and the OEM UCA isn't replaced with the Cognito UCA, the premature contact of the metal to metal bump stop on the OEM UCA's will create a harsh ride as the result. Also the angle of the upper ball joint on the OEM UCA will be too extreme, and will wear out prematurely.

<Click Here> (http://www.trailduty.com/product_info.php?cPath=112_118_69&products_id=363) for the full in detail information on this.

Here's a pic of my front suspension:

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj360/Colorado_Breeze/H2%20Tech/fabtech_tierod.jpg

DuckTruck

01-22-2009, 09:51 PM

SummitUp

01-22-2009, 10:11 PM

SummitUP,

To get the full 2-3" from the Cognito kit, does one need to purchase the green keys also or can this amount of lift be had from the full crank of the stock t-bars? Thanks for the input in advance, DUCK
That's a good question Duck, and I would say it all depends. In my case I needed the "green keys" to get the lift I needed. The adjusting bolt on the driver's side only had a 1/4" of adjustment left before bottoming out (passenger side was at 1/2"), and turning it in all the way didn't give enough lift.

My advice to anyone wanting to do this is just go ahead and start cranking the T-bars up and see how far you can go. There's a tremendous amount of pressure on those adjusting bolts, and to avoid damaging the bolts (i.e. stripping the threads) it's highly advised to unload the front suspension first by jacking the front end high enough to get the front wheels off the ground. And don't forget the WD40! :D

One other thing to consider, is the torsion bar key installation tool is required to change the keys. Looks like this:

http://www.trailduty.com/images/specialty-tool.jpg

DuckTruck

01-22-2009, 10:12 PM

Thanks man.

I was thinking that I would install the Cognito kit.....then crank fully.....then determine if more is needed (aka if I can or can't fit my 40"s).

DUCK

HumminNBoatin'

01-23-2009, 04:41 AM

I hear you guys on the Cognito etc.... But if you crank it all the way the truck will have no squat at all. Am I not right?? And if I dont crank them all the way then do I really need the cognito kit?? I understand im going to need new struts no matter what.

Boss. I would imagine that if you got 38's that were 12.5 inches wide it should fit with a slight lift. Hell I got a buddy who did a 2inch custom body lift on his SUT and he is running 40's!

Also what about the rear end? Have any of you guys lifted a rear end with Air? I have not had time to put a call into Travis yet but I will soon.

DuckTruck

01-23-2009, 07:40 PM

HumminNBoatin'.....

All I have heard re: lifting the rear end w/ air susp. would be to "extend" the sensor arms that control the rear lift option.

I think I remember reading something about "fooling" this sensor OR being able to have the "standard ride height" of the H2 adjusted upward.

DUCK

timgco

01-23-2009, 07:51 PM

So, there are three options on that page.

Two are $460 and one is $680.00. I would think it would be better to use the extended length shocks over the added brackets as well.

So what is needed if you are going to raise the front end up 3".

maybe a full list with part#'s would allow us to order all teh correct parts at once.

Maybe we can list this out as FRONT and REAR parts added/modded.

I the past i turned the tbars up just a little, added fabtec tie rods and rancho shocks/steering stabilizer....but the shocks would blow out up front quickly....too short.

This time i want to add to the height (without doing another Rancho 4" kit), add to the steering support, idler/pivot support, and increase what little travel we can get up there.

So, what do I need?

Here's what I have so far:

FRONT:
Rancho steering stabilzer $55 RS5407
Fabtech tierods $245 FTS71002
GM green keys (3" lift to the front) $44 15592573
Cognito Idler Pivot Kit $200 IPAWG8
Cognito Pitman/Idler Support $216 PISK2008
Cognito Upper Control Arm Kit (someone please fill in all that is needed)
Shocks (not sure, I would like to go extended length without adding purchases)(does fox make the proper extended length)

Rear:
Samco rear Springs (1" of lift) $360 SCH2Rear Spring
Crown Brake Lines (+2 length) $159 CR-H2
Shocks (not sure on shocks needed) (fox maybe)
rear spring spacers (not sure if these would be needed after adding the samco springs or not)

I couldn't agree more. I raised my front end a full 3" to accommodate the 37" KM2's. If the front end is cranked a full 3" and the OEM UCA isn't replaced with the Cognito UCA, the premature contact of the metal to metal bump stop on the OEM UCA's will create a harsh ride as the result. Also the angle of the upper ball joint on the OEM UCA will be too extreme, and will wear out prematurely.

<Click Here> (http://www.trailduty.com/product_info.php?cPath=112_118_69&products_id=363) for the full in detail information on this.

Here's a pic of my front suspension:

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj360/Colorado_Breeze/H2%20Tech/fabtech_tierod.jpg

Bimmer9938

01-23-2009, 07:57 PM

I also have the Truxxx 2.5-3 F 1.5R lift and like it very much.

Before lift.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/Bimmer9938/TRUXXX%20LIFT%20KIT/BEFORE.jpg
After lift.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/Bimmer9938/TRUXXX%20LIFT%20KIT/AFTER.jpg

New wheels (old tires).

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b312/Bimmer9938/MURDERING%20OUT/Picture003-1.jpg

DuckTruck

01-23-2009, 08:16 PM

Looks good Bimmer.....all you need now is some bigger meats! Maybe 40"s?

I also agree that the "best" option for the Cognito kit would be to get the longer shocks. However, I have Rancho 9000's on all four corners (they are adjustable for those who didn't know) and I am in love with them.

Thus, this fact coupled with the reports of the Bilsteins being valved much harder and that I have adjustability as we speak......I will be opting for the extender hardware.

DUCK

timgco

01-23-2009, 11:26 PM

I don;t know where you guys are getting 40's from....that would be retarded!! 37's on teh stock rims just fit and allow full flex. 38's with a 4" Rancho kit (more like a 6" kit) barely allow for 38's and still allow it flex up all the way.

With 38's or larger, you can forget about even turning all the way.

DuckTruck

01-24-2009, 12:09 AM

timgco

01-24-2009, 05:12 AM

i can tell you what we are thinking.....simple math.

if we can run 37's on stock rims with no lift. thus, if i lift my rig 3 inches, and keep the wheels the same, 40"s are definately doable.

especially when individuals are running 40"s with only a 2 inch body lift and they actually wheel it......obviously it can be done.

jdj

Have at it. I had a Rancho lifted H2 with 37 13.50's. Ther new owner is running 38's....and he is out of room to try and fit 40's. I have also seen a Fabtech lifted H2 in action with 38's (6" lift) and he had rubbing issues as well. THat's with a true 6" kit/ so to say 40's will work awith a 3", I don;t see how...even with adding a 2" body lift. I also wouldn;t consider running that tire on a stock rim. I think (not sure) 40's go to a 14.50 wide? I think that tire will pop off the bead easily being that wide with these narrow rims.

So I don;t see how 40's would even come close to fit... and be even close to functional. If you have the rear sensors for the factory airbags, you can kiss those goodbye as well. You would have to relocate those sensors from the wheelwell alltogether.

So I think your "simple math" is off. there is no way 40's will fit. But go ahead and prove me wrong. it would look bada$$ for sure, but with a tire that big, would be wortheless. "Obviously" it would be a worthless truck with that size tire. :lame:

DRTYFN

01-24-2009, 07:02 AM

SummitUP,

or can this amount of lift be had from the full crank of the stock t-bars?

:raar:

tomp

01-24-2009, 07:39 AM

Truxx kit is a waste of money and is a rip off. Go with the green keys from Chevy

OEM length shocks will be a problem before needing to replace the UCAs as the shocks are first limiting factor. You can get 1.5-2" of lift in front using OEM UCAs but your ball joints will wear out quickly. There is a point where the OEM UCAs will not allow you to fall within OEM alignment specs, so if you go to far - you will need to opt for Cognito UCAs

Before you hit a full 3" of lift in front, you will start getting half-shaft or CV joint vibrations at 70+mph. With 37s, the safe mark is 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare.

Uni-ball Cognito UCAs are very nice and will allow max height of 44.5" (with 37s) from ground to bottom of fender flare and still fall into OEM alignment specs. The Uniballs will never need replacing and may last life of H2.

Tim..only thing you might want to add to list id the Borgeson Steering shaft. It is "optional" but if you are looking to build ultimate non-lifted H2 - this is nice mod. It will further tighten steering as it rids it of slop in the shaft. Also rids clunk... Also, dont forget the tru-cool tranny cooler and the Diablo programmer to recal speedo for larger tires and deactivate GM torque management for "power on demand". Don't forget the Hutchison beadlocks Tim!!! Also, dump all drivetrain fluids and pour in Redline for big improvement;)

For those arguing about the 38s, Tim is right. He has owned more Hummers than all of us and offroads them too so you might want to heed his advice. You can't do 38s without at least a 4-6" lift without major rubbing issues and even then will still rub pretty bad offroad.

Summitup is on track as well.

Bimmer9938

01-24-2009, 12:09 PM

Have at it. I had a Rancho lifted H2 with 37 13.50's. Ther new owner is running 38's....and he is out of room to try and fit 40's. I have also seen a Fabtech lifted H2 in action with 38's (6" lift) and he had rubbing issues as well. THat's with a true 6" kit/ so to say 40's will work awith a 3", I don;t see how...even with adding a 2" body lift.

Dose anybody make a 2" body lift for the H2? I've never seen or heard of it.

timgco

01-24-2009, 07:17 PM

Dose anybody make a 2" body lift for the H2? I've never seen or heard of it.

I'm not sure on who makes it, but I do know that either a 2" or 3" body lift is what is used on the DMax /Allison conversion to allow enough room.

I don't hink i would do a body lift on this truck though. I'm not sure we would gain too much from it. your rock rails and bumper woudl show a gap along with a mod would be needed to hide the gaps in the fender wells. Those lift lips might work though.

Bimmer9938

01-24-2009, 07:27 PM

If anyone has info...please share.

tomp

01-24-2009, 07:56 PM

If anyone has info...please share.

Why would anyone make a 2" lift when you can get this with parts already available? Read what's already been posted and you can accomplish this amount of lift while strengthening the steering, increasing flex and ground clearance all at the same time. You gain so much more by doing this versus doing a lift kit that drops the front diff down and lower rear trailing arm brackets.

Bimmer9938

01-24-2009, 07:59 PM

I already have a Truxx lift, I'd just like a little more tire clearance for bigger meats. I don't take my truck offroad, I just like the lifted look.

IRA51

01-24-2009, 09:20 PM

:raar:yes but ,you realy Fu*k up the nice smooth ride with the keys or cranking the bars .

DuckTruck

01-24-2009, 09:22 PM

Tom.....my point exactly. i am glad to see someone understands my "obvious" theory.

also, many other specific vehicle factors come into play when examining what will work or will not: wheel width, offset, tire width, tire height, knuckle lift vs. full diff. drop, and track width.

thus, that is why i dont think Tim's argument is conclusive (no offense to him....Lord knows i respect his knowledge and definately don't want for this thread or any others "to go there"), but i do feel he is comparing two different lift strategies based upon his experience with only one.

i have owned many lifted vehicles. with that said, my 2 door tahoe (college rig) for instance had a 6" rough country and 35"s on 15x10 wheels. that was all that lift could clear and still function off road. it looked great, but when compared to a later 2 door tahoe i owned (law school) which only had a 3" body lift, cranked t-bars, and add-a-leafs in the rear, i netted a smaller amount of lift, but ran bigger tires (36" TSL's and later 37" Boggers), had more ground clearance (due to nothing being dropped in the front suspension--as tom mentioned), and was more capable off road because of all these factors.

therefore, if running a bigger tire, having more ground clearance, perfecting the stock suspension setup via quality pieces, and becoming more capable off-road is "lame" and/or "worthless"....well then sign me and my truck up!

DUCK

Bimmer9938

01-24-2009, 09:24 PM

yes but ,you realy Fu*k up the nice smooth ride with the keys or cranking the bars .

Mine rides awesome, don't know about everybody else. Thats the difference between just cranking up the bars vs. keys.

IRA51

01-24-2009, 11:09 PM

the keys put the same load on the T bars ,but allow the adjustment bolt not to bottom out . done 2500 hd's both ways and you get a harsh ride with both. first one I ever did was a 93 k 5 blazer 4x4 .

Bimmer9938

01-24-2009, 11:13 PM

If you really wanted the best for going off road you'd ditch the IFS for a solid axle with coil springs or coil overs for the best articulation. Agreed?

DuckTruck

01-25-2009, 12:01 AM

if i remeber correctly the original H1 is decent off road and it seems to have IFS......

but yeah......a solid axle H2 would be burly.....however one would loose all the advantages of our traction control systems and the daily driver abilities they have.

DUCK

Bimmer9938

01-25-2009, 12:08 AM

Yea, I don't think the H1 and the H2 have the exact same suspension...
:giggling:

HumminNBoatin'

01-25-2009, 01:23 AM

40s Can be done!!! But its not easy.

See: Picture number 4 on the site posted
http://thehummerclubinc.com/Media/Images.aspx?I=246

This Black SUT is Custom Body Lifted 2". He also cranked T-bars and did something with his coils in the back. There was alot of cutting and welding involved in doing this lift. Yes those tires are on stock rims and I have never heard of Rick bitching about loosing beads.

Guys I would like to thank you for the great response. So far I have learned that I will be purchasing the Cognito kit before I do this. Now I just have to figure our the BACK END!! lol.

Eric

Bimmer9938

01-25-2009, 01:59 AM

They used to use a relocation bracket for the airbag sensor, that would trick the sensor into thinking the back was sagging so it would air up and raise the rear of the vehicle. This is common practice on lowering air bag equipped vehicles aswell.

OrangeCrush

01-25-2009, 02:12 AM

i can tell you what we are thinking.....simple math.

if we can run 37's on stock rims with no lift. thus, if i lift my rig 3 inches, and keep the wheels the same, 40"s are definately doable.
jdj

I can't speak of the bodylift but I can tell you that with a fabtech 6" lift, 40's will not work.

My 38's fit perfectly, no trimming, no rubbing (would make the frame shiny but not bear into it so that you could feel it)

The problem with 38's and especially 40's even if you could fit them is the truck would run like crap. When I installed 38's, I was so dissapointed with the performance, I installed 4.56 gears.... that didn't work so I installed a supercharger.

That's why I did the torsion bar bit with 35's. Looks decent and not so power robbing, it makes the truck nasty to drive.

Mark

Bimmer9938

01-25-2009, 02:24 AM

I agree, the Truxxx kit is pissa, I hate listening to the "know it alls" that argue about everything...who don't have it. I have it, and would do it again on my next Hummer H2 aswell.

OrangeCrush

01-25-2009, 03:27 AM

Before you hit a full 3" of lift in front, you will start getting half-shaft or CV joint vibrations at 70+mph.

Tomp,

I know the Cognito UCA's are to be used in conjunction with a levelling kit but does installing the cognito UCA's allow the half-shafts not to be in a bind?

Can anyone tell me what's the difference between this (http://www.fatboycustoms.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=757) and this (http://www.trailduty.com/product_info.php?products_id=591)

Thanks,

Mark

timgco

01-25-2009, 03:48 AM

but i do feel he is comparing two different lift strategies based upon his experience with only one.

I have not done the body lift, so I'm not 100% sure on how much room it will actually create, but I just don;t see 40's fitting in. With the added keys, 3" body lift, removed airbags/ replaced with taller rear springs...as to avoid that whole airbag sensor bs (I had issues on a couple H2's with this setup with 37's), I think you could fit a 37 13.50 in there with increased travel over stock, but I just don;t see how the 40's would work. The Last H2 I saw with 40's was at SEMA with 10" lift.

therefore, if running a bigger tire, having more ground clearance, perfecting the stock suspension setup via quality pieces, and becoming more capable off-road is "lame" and/or "worthless"....well then sign me and my truck up!

That's the whole point of this thread. I honeslty feel 40's will fawk that truck up...but 38's might just be doable with the proper setup. I'm new to this type of lift setup/discussion. I understand the complete Fabtech 6" and Rancho 4" kits and am fully aware of what fits and doesn;t with those, but not with the B.L. and who would make a complete kit for that.

DUCK

If 40's will fit, i'll eat those words!!!! But I doubt it can be done without a $hitload of other mods outside of the tbar crank/keys, and a 3" body lift.
I'm not even sure that the front end of our H2's would hold up to 40's...even with the added mods. That may require the SAS conversion to do so...esp if you add a front Elocker like Tomp already has and I plan to do as well.

My plan....in case anyone cares) is to run the same setup as TomP with a set of 37 13.50 18 Toyo MT on the XD Wheels. I;m still researching on what shocks I can do this with as I would like to run proper extended length front and rear/ also a FOX Resi. shock if at all possible.

DuckTruck

01-25-2009, 03:51 AM

i agree with two things thus far:

bimmer.....i WISH we had the same suspension as the H1!

and second, this thread is really bringing out some great info...lets keep it coming.

DUCK

timgco

01-25-2009, 04:03 AM

DuckTruck

01-25-2009, 04:12 AM

timgco

01-25-2009, 04:27 AM

the guy in the link, rick, and i have emailed and spoken on the phone about his setup. he is super helpful and truly has a bad ass rig.

oh....and he has his own, custom made 2" body lift and IS running 39.5 bias ply IROKs.

doable.....i think so; there is your proof.

DUCK

Let's get Rick over to learn more about his setup. Or maybe he can send someone an EMail. hell, PM me his info, and I'll contact him.

I tried to save that pic of his truck...it won;t let allow you to. :mad:

Does someone have more pics of that rig? esp.... the suspension setup?

tomp

01-25-2009, 07:48 AM

I know the Cognito UCA's are to be used in conjunction with a levelling kit but does installing the cognito UCA's allow the half-shafts not to be in a bind?

Can anyone tell me what's the difference between this (http://www.fatboycustoms.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=757) and this (http://www.trailduty.com/product_info.php?products_id=591)

Mark, no - the Cognito UCAs don't circumvent the issue with the half shafts. I know the height I provided with 37s works with no CV vibrations at 70+mph. Prior to being at 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare, I was at 45.5" and it vibrated at 70mph at that height so you could try something in between to see if you can get more that 44.5" height using 37s.

The difference in those two UCAs is the joint. Once has standard ball joints (but are replaceable where OEM joints are not) and the the other has uniball joints on the more expensive UCAs. These use a large steel ball for the joint and are much stronger and may last for life of H2.

tomp

01-25-2009, 08:15 AM

My plan....in case anyone cares) is to run the same setup as TomP with a set of 37 13.50 18 Toyo MT on the XD Wheels. I;m still researching on what shocks I can do this with as I would like to run proper extended length front and rear/ also a FOX Resi. shock if at all possible.

Tim, my suggestion is to run 12.5" wide 37s and not 13.5". If you have seen my custom fender wells, you would understand! I am moving away from the 13.5" width and going with the more narrow 12.5" width and then using Hutchison double beadlocks. I will end up with more footprint/traction this way, less wear on steering and less rubbing issues.

If you want to increase the rear droop on a coil spring H2 to match what you'll get from the front Cognito setup, I will provide you the details for the rear shocks to match the front Cognito-Bilstein shocks. You are already aware that the Samco rear coils have 2.5" more free length over stock coils and provide about 1" more lift. You will want to add airlift airbags (about $85) to these coils. The Samco coils have less spring rate than OEM coils, so this is why you want the bags. Also, it allows you to adjust rear height as well, so you dont have to run spacers.

Here is the rear shock info.... Since the front Cognito-Bilsteins are their 5125 series shocks which are rebuildable and customizable, you want to do the same for the rear. Their 5125 shocks that fit the profile of the Samco coils are F4-BE5-6249-H5. You will want to have the valving, bushings and sleeves changed though, as these shocks are made for a Dodge pickup truck and the "Rebound" valving is too lght. The bushings/sleeves are also too small for the H2's shock bolts. Purchase your rear shocks from Offroad Warehouse (ask for Jason). Tell him you want the above shocks to be custom valved from Bilstein with BE5-A937-H0 +20% increase. This is the H2 valving parameters with a 20% increase in valving. The first part number is the shock and the 2nd is for the valving!

The Bilstein bushings are part number 98108G for the H2. They come two in a pack so you will need two packs for two shocks. The sleeve part number is 423730 and these come two in a pack as well.

If you do the front and rear like I have explained, you will love this darn thing so much you will never lift another vehicle! You'll end up with more droop/flex than stock, more ground clearance and have stronger steering and a much tighter steering and on road driving experience.

I am at the point where I want function over looks so I am going with beadlocks. The weight of the H2 really hampers it's abilities on steep inclines. With that said, I think beadlocks look tough and that's the look I am after anyhow. There are two things that prevent my H2 from tackling every obstacle in it's path. One is steep inclines where traction is minimal. The other is getting high centered. Getting high centered is not something you can always overcome - sometimes you can take a different line and all is well. However, beadlocks will definitely improve my success on steep inclines. There is a third thing on the H2 and that is it's width but I don't consider it a negative because sometimes it's also a positive to have the width advantage.

DuckTruck

01-25-2009, 12:17 PM

tim,

i still have my emails with rick. when i get back on my computer (i am doing all this now on my phone) i will cut & paste them here.

tom,

thanks for the great info. and the halfshaft vibes.

i think the great news is that "if" this is possible (yall already know my stance on this) than we can run bigger meats, all while obtaining max. ground clearance, and doing so without going so "tall" as to experience vibes or make a dramatic increase in our center of gravity.

DUCK

OrangeCrush

01-25-2009, 04:14 PM

Mark, no - the Cognito UCAs don't circumvent the issue with the half shafts. I know the height I provided with 37s works with no CV vibrations at 70+mph. Prior to being at 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare, I was at 55.5" and it vibrated at 70mph at that height so you could try something in between to see if you can get more that 44.5" height using 37s.

Well I guess that leaves me screwed. I'm only at 42.5" and running 35's and at 70mph, I can feel the halfshafts making a minor vibration.

I guess my only choice is to lower the front end a bit to relieve some of the bind the halfshaft is getting and replace the rear 1 1/2" spacer in the rear with perhaps a 1" spacer.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Mark

timgco

01-25-2009, 05:14 PM

Well I guess that leaves me screwed. I'm only at 42.5" and running 35's and at 70mph, I can feel the halfshafts making a minor vibration.

I guess my only choice is to lower the front end a bit to relieve some of the bind the halfshaft is getting and replace the rear 1 1/2" spacer in the rear with perhaps a 1" spacer.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Mark

Could this possibly be an alignment issue casing your vibes? Or maybe the Cognito UCA's will help? Not sure as I haven;t doen these mods yet. I think the most accurate way to measure would be from teh center of the hub to the bottom of the fender well.

tomp

01-25-2009, 06:27 PM

OrangeCrush

01-25-2009, 06:58 PM

Mark, I dont think they will vibrate with front height that low. Something is not right. You can count number of "flats" while turning down TBS and see if it goes away - and if that was not it turn the TBs back up exact same number of flats. Make sure to have load off of front end when cranking them up or down. Also, jack each front wheel off ground and grab tire/wheel and try to lift and ot shake the wheel to check for bad hub bearings.. You could also check air pressure and balancing and did you get an alignment after cranking TBs?

Tomp,

Thanks man, I'll double check the air pressure. Tire balancing and pressure should be right since they were brand new when I did the lift. (like I said, I'll double check) The steering wheel doesn't vibrate at all at any speed so I'm assuming the balance of the tires is fine.

As far as alignment, I immediately had an alignment done. I even had them use the specs the manufacturer suggested.

I took a look at the front halfshafts and they shouldn't be in a bind. Like I said, the vibration is VERY minor.

I'll check pressure next.

Mark

tomp

01-25-2009, 08:35 PM

Mark...do you have mud tires with large lugs on them? This will cause it

Edit: just went back to see your pics and "yes" that is caused by those tires. It's the lugs you are feeling so no worries there. I bet if you put your stock tires back on for testing, the issue would not occur. I had Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials which are close to the same pattern as those tires you have and they did the same thing. It shouldn't be that bad though. I would have them re-check balancing to make sure it's right. Tell them is vibrating really bad.

OrangeCrush

01-26-2009, 12:41 AM

Thanks, I've got a set of stock tires I can try. Like I said, the vibration is MINOR but I tend to be anal.

I ordered a set of cognito UCA last night but thinking I should cancel the order.

However, it should make the truck ride better. (it's not bad now, I can hardly tell any difference) but I'm more interested in ride quality as far as when the suspension loads and unloads as you go over wavy roads.

Mark

tomp

01-26-2009, 02:13 AM

Mark, longer shocks are more of a priority than the UCAs. The shocks are the first limiting factor and then second are the control arms.

OrangeCrush

01-26-2009, 02:39 AM

Mark, longer shocks are more of a priority than the UCAs. The shocks are the first limiting factor and then second are the control arms.

I didn't replace shocks but did use the extended shock bracket.

Mark

Bimmer9938

01-26-2009, 03:47 AM

Its common with the Truxxx 2.5-3F/ 1.5 R lift at 70-71mph. I have the same lift, and its hardly noticeable and its a good reminder to slow down.

tomp

01-26-2009, 05:27 AM

I didn't replace shocks but did use the extended shock bracket.

Mark

Warning: the shock extensions I have seen are too tall for OEM length H2 shocks. To test this, ensure vehicle is on level ground at stock ehight in the front and resting on the bump stops, disconnect the bottom of the shock and see if you can push it up higher then where it would mount to the shock extension bracket. If you can't push it up where the shock's bolt hole goes up higher than the hole in the shock extension, you are either riding on a bottomed out shock if or slamming down on a bottomed out shock when the front end comes down on the bump stops. The latter is the case if you have cranked the TBs. This is true with all H2 shock extensions that I have seen to date. Yes, this is another mark against Truxx.

The reason this is a problem is because these companies assume the H2's shocks are the same as the 2500HD pickup trucks. The shocks are not the same and only have half of the travel that the 2500HDs have.

To correct this problem you must determine the proper amount to shorten the shock extension (to get your shocks into the right range of travel) or use the 2500HD shocks.

The reason the H2's have less travel is because they have extension and compression bump stops in them where the 2500HD shocks only have extension stops. This takes some of the travel away.

Here is the way you need to think about it: Consider the fact that you are pushing up the bottom of the shock much higher than you would be when at factory height and resting on the frame mounted stops.

If anyone doubts what I am saying here, call Rancho and ask them why their online Shock Specifications show H2's shocks with 2.5" of travel and the 2500HD has 4.6". You can also see in this same manual there is a symbol next to the H2's shocks in two places. This "cross" symbol is shown for both compressed length and extended length. This shock symbol is there to inform you of the included bump stops. Notice the 2500HD shocks only show the symbol once?

Also, for those of you thinking it is okay to rest on the stops - think again. Your shocks will start degrading very quicky as you are beating the heck out of them. I went through several sets of shocks and my ride quality went horrible fast - compared to a new vehicle. This was the cause of it!

BTW, my ride quality with torsion bars cranked is much better than stock now

DuckTruck

01-26-2009, 04:49 PM

Here are the communications I had with Rick via email:

"give me a shout when you have some free time...I will always make time to talk HUMMERS...now more of a sickness than a hobby, I'm a HUMMER owner for life!!!

Rick

rick,

what size tires are you running...especially in width?

the iroks i am looking at are 13.50 wide.....do you think i will have
any problems with that width on my stock wheels with rubbing?

thanks again,

jdj

Jonathan,

I'm running 39.5 x 13.5 Iroks on stock wheels...as I mentioned, in the front, they rub on the swaybar at full turn...

The rear lower control arm pocket at the frame has about a 1/2" to 3/4" stiffening flange below & in front of the bolt hole...I've ground away the extra material to extend only 1/8" to 1/4" out from the face of the control arm pocket...The extra clearance made me feel more comfortable that I would not rip out the sidewall at low pressure...You don't want to grind it flush, because that may weaken the pocket itself.

The other option that I am toying with is to add 1/4" to 1/2" wheel spacers, giving you a little more room...problem with that, is any more than 1/4" spacers & you'll need longer wheel studs...

One other thing that I failed to mention during our phone conversation...I'm using Fab-Tech tie rods because stock ones are so weak...and x-tra suppout brackets on the Idler & Pitman arms to give them a little more life...

I'll see if I can send you a bunch of pictures in a couple of days or so...

Talk to you soon...I hope that info helps!

Rick
Thanks man.....great info.

JDJ

Rick,

Wanted to follow up and ask you another question......

I am almost 100% confident that I will be installing Cognito Motorsports leveling kit (2 - 3") when purchasing new tires. I also 100% certain that I will be running 39.5 x 13.50 x 17 IROKs on my stock wheels.

The question comes when trying to decide between radial and bias-ply. I do a great bit of highway driving, but have run bias-ply tires before (the 37" boggers I told you about).......it would normally be a hands-down decision, go radial. But I am worried about killing my (already lack of) power. Thus, the weight difference between the bias (84 lbs.) vs. the radial (99lbs.) really concerns me.

What do you think about this? Also, how do your bias-ply 40's do at highway speeds, etc.?

Thanks again buddy,

JDJ

Thank you.

I'm just concerned that when stepping up to 39.5's that my highway cruising will suffer even more than when stepping up to 37"s (ie the constant "transmission kick down" that we all so dread!).

Any input on this issue? How does your truck respond?

JDJ

Jonathan,

I had 37's on the truck from the time it was 2 months old...I didn't notice much difference in vehicle performance from stock, as far as mileage/transmission shift points/power. When I added the 39.5's the road noise increased substantially & the trans stayed in low for slightly longer (slightly slower acceleration)...as far as steep hill climbs, I manually shift the transmission, especially when towing up steep grades, so I wouldn't know about the kick-down pro's & cons...There is a way to re-program your shift points if you need to...

I'm in the process of modifying my 2007 to be just like the 2005...including the 39.5 Iroks!!!

I love the bigger tires...with the snow here in Michigan, the 2" body lift & the bigger tires make for a better drive in the country for me.

I got my 07 buried in a snow drift about two weeks ago...The 05 with the lift & tires had no problem with being stuc...I mean "Temporarily detained".

Best of luck with your modifications...Happy new year, hope to see your rig completed some day!

Rick"

There ya go,

DUCK

OrangeCrush

01-27-2009, 04:48 AM

Tomp,

Thanks, I just happened to read your response.

Tomorrow I will unbolt the bottom of the shock. Just to make sure I understand, you want me to compress the shock so the bottom bolt hole in the shock goes higher than the bolt hole in the extension, correct?

I will do that tomorrow but I did notice that the spacing between the bump stop and control arm is about 1/4". Is that correct or no?

If I can not raise it higher than the shock extension bolt hole, can I buy longer H2 shocks?

Thanks for your help,

Mark
Warning: the shock extensions I have seen are too tall for OEM length H2 shocks. To test this, ensure vehicle is on level ground at stock ehight in the front and resting on the bump stops, disconnect the bottom of the shock and see if you can push it up higher then where it would mount to the shock extension bracket. If you can't push it up where the shock's bolt hole goes up higher than the hole in the shock extension, you are either riding on a bottomed out shock if or slamming down on a bottomed out shock when the front end comes down on the bump stops. The latter is the case if you have cranked the TBs. This is true with all H2 shock extensions that I have seen to date. Yes, this is another mark against Truxx.

The reason this is a problem is because these companies assume the H2's shocks are the same as the 2500HD pickup trucks. The shocks are not the same and only have half of the travel that the 2500HDs have.

To correct this problem you must determine the proper amount to shorten the shock extension (to get your shocks into the right range of travel) or use the 2500HD shocks.

The reason the H2's have less travel is because they have extension and compression bump stops in them where the 2500HD shocks only have extension stops. This takes some of the travel away.

Here is the way you need to think about it: Consider the fact that you are pushing up the bottom of the shock much higher than you would be when at factory height and resting on the frame mounted stops.

If anyone doubts what I am saying here, call Rancho and ask them why their online Shock Specifications show H2's shocks with 2.5" of travel and the 2500HD has 4.6". You can also see in this same manual there is a symbol next to the H2's shocks in two places. This "cross" symbol is shown for both compressed length and extended length. This shock symbol is there to inform you of the included bump stops. Notice the 2500HD shocks only show the symbol once?

Also, for those of you thinking it is okay to rest on the stops - think again. Your shocks will start degrading very quicky as you are beating the heck out of them. I went through several sets of shocks and my ride quality went horrible fast - compared to a new vehicle. This was the cause of it!

BTW, my ride quality with torsion bars cranked is much better than stock now

tomp

01-27-2009, 05:33 AM

Hey Mark...you really need to assume that the shock will also need to raise up beyond that 1/4" of space in addition to it raising up above the bolt hole in the shock extension. You also have to consider that bump stops compress when all the weight of your front end comes down hard on the stops. Please take that into consideration.

Yes, the Cognito-Bilstein shocks compress to that of the OEM shocks, plus they are longer for the needed droop required after cranking the TBs.

If the above testing proves that you are bottoming out the shocks, you can still use the shock extensions by switching to the shocks for a 2500HD which are the same extended length as the H2 OEM shock length, plus they compress shorter.

OrangeCrush

01-28-2009, 02:53 AM

Man, I appreciate your input. Before I start all this, I'm looking into another lift kit. The reason is because by the time I buy control arms, new shocks, I'll have 1200-1400 bucks in it. If I'm spending that much because of a levelling kit, I'd just as well be better off buying a smaller suspension lift kit. Thoughts/opinions?

Like I said earlier, I didn't want to get a 6" kit simply because that will require taller tires, gears, etc, etc.

....unless of course, I can install a 6" and lower it a bit? Is that possible? I'm assuming that a 6" kit is with the torsion bars cranked up to a certain amount.... what if you didn't crank them that far? Is 6" the minimum you could go?

I talked to a dealer for Cognito and he said they made a 4" kit for the H2.

I looked it up and didn't see anything but did see a 4" kit for an HD2500. Are the front suspensions the same?

Thanks again,

Mark

Hey Mark...you really need to assume that the shock will also need to raise up beyond that 1/4" of space in addition to it raising up above the bolt hole in the shock extension. You also have to consider that bump stops compress when all the weight of your front end comes down hard on the stops. Please take that into consideration.

Yes, the Cognito-Bilstein shocks compress to that of the OEM shocks, plus they are longer for the needed droop required after cranking the TBs.

If the above testing proves that you are bottoming out the shocks, you can still use the shock extensions by switching to the shocks for a 2500HD which are the same extended length as the H2 OEM shock length, plus they compress shorter.

DuckTruck

01-28-2009, 02:56 AM

I bet the "4 inch kit" he is talking about is the 2-3" kit we are speaking of.

Other option would be to run the Rancho, which is a 4" lift you can crank to 6"......but the difference between these two is about a grand PLUS installation (which will be large for the Rancho).

DUCK

OrangeCrush

01-28-2009, 04:01 AM

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know anything about the Rancho suspension? I swear I read that they had a bump steer problem.

Anyone know?

Thanks,

Mark

Bimmer9938

01-28-2009, 04:11 AM

The Rancho looks like a nice kit, there was a guy on the forum with a green H2 who had it.

Bimmer9938

01-28-2009, 04:12 AM

Just out of curiousity, does anyone know anything about the Rancho suspension? I swear I read that they had a bump steer problem.

Anyone know?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark, you already want to go bigger?? LOL.

OrangeCrush

01-28-2009, 04:22 AM

Mark, you already want to go bigger?? LOL.

I have to. I made a 1000 bet that I wouldn't supercharge it for the first year.

LOL.

Mark

Bimmer9938

01-28-2009, 04:29 AM

Your my hero! :jump:

DuckTruck

01-28-2009, 05:34 AM

OC,

I think the more research you do re: the Rancho kit will lead you right back to the Cognito kit or a setup like Tom.

DUCK

tomp

01-28-2009, 06:21 AM

Mark, all you need to do is take verify the shock extension brackets are not too tall. They most likely are too tall and if they are, they can be easily modified.

Man, I appreciate your input. Before I start all this, I'm looking into another lift kit. The reason is because by the time I buy control arms, new shocks, I'll have 1200-1400 bucks in it. If I'm spending that much because of a levelling kit, I'd just as well be better off buying a smaller suspension lift kit. Thoughts/opinions?

Like I said earlier, I didn't want to get a 6" kit simply because that will require taller tires, gears, etc, etc.

....unless of course, I can install a 6" and lower it a bit? Is that possible? I'm assuming that a 6" kit is with the torsion bars cranked up to a certain amount.... what if you didn't crank them that far? Is 6" the minimum you could go?

I talked to a dealer for Cognito and he said they made a 4" kit for the H2.

I looked it up and didn't see anything but did see a 4" kit for an HD2500. Are the front suspensions the same?

Thanks again,

Mark

timgco

01-28-2009, 10:02 PM

The Rancho looks like a nice kit, there was a guy on the forum with a green H2 who had it.

That was me.
http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22707

RuggedH2 now has that truck and improved on the kit as well. He'll have to comment on what he changed up.

I can tell you that this kit is expensive though. The kit is listed as a 4", but did add 6" without the additional height of the tires. You cannot use the stock rims either.

The only things I did not like about the kit:

Teh Tbars do hang down below the frame...but with the added height
isn't too big of an issue.

The kit is not reversible. You're not going back to stock...ever...well at least without welding.

the rear drop brackets (I think Rugged addressed this though) did hang down quite a bit.

As far as ride quailty and highway speeds, that kit handled great. But with adding this kit, ther are other things to consider: steering stabilizer, idler/pitman support, Hd Tierods are all not included in this kit and added to better handling too. I did not add the support kit on that one though.

Guinnessboy

01-29-2009, 02:55 AM

ive got the ultimate lift....its called factory...STOCK!

DuckTruck

01-29-2009, 03:44 PM

ive got the ultimate lift....its called factory...STOCK!

:orly:

KenP

01-29-2009, 09:48 PM

the guy in the link, rick, and i have emailed and spoken on the phone about his setup. he is super helpful and truly has a bad ass rig.

oh....and he has his own, custom made 2" body lift and IS running 39.5 bias ply IROKs.

doable.....i think so; there is your proof.

DUCKCan we see pics of this truck doing some serious wheeling?

Albie has a 6" Fabtech with 40's and his rubs like a teenage boy getting his first peek at Penthouse.

We had 38's and they rubbed bad as well.

Put them on and see what happens.

DuckTruck

01-29-2009, 09:51 PM

That is truly the funniest way I have ever heard to describe a tire rubbing after lifting a vehicle.....damn, I blew coffee all over my laptop.

DUCK

Bimmer9938

01-29-2009, 09:53 PM

Are you sure that was coffee....were you also looking at the Hummer and babe thread too? :perfect10s:

DuckTruck

01-29-2009, 09:56 PM

Haha.....I'm sure it was coffee!

:clapping:

Bimmer9938

01-29-2009, 10:01 PM

All we had when I was a teen was the Sear's catalog and National Geographic, thank god Victoria Secret came out with a catalog! :giggling:

timgco

01-30-2009, 03:15 AM

[quote=KenP]

Albie has a 6" Fabtech with 40's and his rubs like a teenage boy getting his first peek at Penthouse.quote]

:perfect10s:

RippSpeed

02-02-2009, 04:58 AM

I'd like to do a 2 to 3" lift in the front and a 1.5" lift in the back... But, wouldnt it make my 35" tires look small ??? I dont want to go any bigger than 35" because 1) performance is already taken a hit, 2) I dont want my gas mileage to take a hit when you go 37"...

I just want to get rid of the rake I have... So my plan was to do the green torsion keys, get Deaver springs for the rear that are 1.5" longer ( but keep the same spring rates from the factory so it wont affect the towing capacities), Do the Fab tech tie rods, FOX 2.5 Resevoir shocks all around ( I was given $1300 install price, is that a good deal ???), and do all the cognito suspension upgrades...

I know by the time I've spent my money on those upgrades that I've spent enough money for a kit but I dont want too much of a lift any ways... I just want the rake get rid of the rake and have better suspension and stronger components in the suspension...

Any thoughts on my plans would be great for all you suspension gurus out there....

p.s. anyone know the part number for our rear springs w/o the air shocks ???? Deaver is asking me for them soo they can refference it with the springs they're planning on selling to me ....

Bimmer9938

02-02-2009, 04:30 PM

I run the 2.5/3 F and 1.5R with stock tires and I think it looks fine. Just has more articualtion room in the wells.

Cesardajr

02-02-2009, 07:44 PM

So my plan was to do the green torsion keys, get Deaver springs for the rear that are 1.5" longer ( but keep the same spring rates from the factory so it wont affect the towing capacities), Do the Fab tech tie rods, FOX 2.5 Resevoir shocks all around ( I was given $1300 install price, is that a good deal ???), and do all the cognito suspension upgrades...

$1300 for just labor to install these items is too much.
i had all that labor (except change springs) for $500 labor in san diego.

also get a tuner so you can get more power and pep out of the h2

Bimmer9938

02-02-2009, 09:07 PM

I had my Truxxx lift kit (front and rear) installed for $150.00
granted I knew the guy. :shhh:

RippSpeed

02-03-2009, 02:42 AM

$1300 for just labor to install these items is too much.
i had all that labor (except change springs) for $500 labor in san diego.

also get a tuner so you can get more power and pep out of the h2
no; $1300 for 4 FOX shocks installed

Cesardajr

02-05-2009, 07:12 PM

OK that's what the fox shocks 2.5's cost, so your getting free installation.
but shop around you might be able to get a better price on the fox's.
try downsouthmotorsports.com

RippSpeed

02-05-2009, 07:46 PM

OK that's what the fox shocks 2.5's cost, so your getting free installation.
but shop around you might be able to get a better price on the fox's.
try downsouthmotorsports.com
Fox Shocks 2.5's are $400 retail each corner thats $1600 total... The owner of the shop quoted me $1300 installed and out the door. The website you gave me charge $379 each for FOX 2.5's thats more than what I've beeb quoted and thats not even installed...

The thing is should I get the factory replacement FOX Shocks for the H2 or get something else because I'll be doing the torsion key lift when this gets installed....

Cesardajr

02-06-2009, 05:55 PM

the fox 2.5 shocks you want are a special part number
Front 980-99-316A
Rear 980-99-317A
the ones on his website are much bigger in size.
you would have to call him and ask what his best price is, it just a option.
the website is one a few buddys used and got better pricing on the fox shocks for there off road buggys. i bought my 4 for $1264 shipped from rod hall racing website.
i have these on the h2 with the torsion key lift and they work great. the shocks are installed without the shock spacer brackets, they dont need them.
if you come down to san diego you can check my h2 out if you like.

Bimmer9938

02-06-2009, 05:58 PM

Anybody else know of a more affordable upgrade shock upgrade for the Truxxx 2.5/3F-1.5R Lift?

RippSpeed

02-06-2009, 06:45 PM

Cesardajr

02-07-2009, 08:49 PM

i have a slight prerunner look. i have the h2 a bit over level, this way when i hit jumps the 37's have a little more travel.
depending on the jump the tires rub the wheel well plastic cover.:D

OrangeCrush

02-08-2009, 01:09 AM

If you decide to get the keys and stuff, let me know. I just installed a Truxx kit in the front and a set of spacers (1.5") in the rear.

I'm getting rid of it because I'm going to install an actual lift kit.

Let me know if you're interestedl, my kit isn't even 2 weeks old.

Mark

PS. And no, it doesn't look stupid with 35's, that's what I've got on there now.

I'd like to do a 2 to 3" lift in the front and a 1.5" lift in the back... But, wouldnt it make my 35" tires look small ??? I dont want to go any bigger than 35" because 1) performance is already taken a hit, 2) I dont want my gas mileage to take a hit when you go 37"...

I just want to get rid of the rake I have... So my plan was to do the green torsion keys, get Deaver springs for the rear that are 1.5" longer ( but keep the same spring rates from the factory so it wont affect the towing capacities), Do the Fab tech tie rods, FOX 2.5 Resevoir shocks all around ( I was given $1300 install price, is that a good deal ???), and do all the cognito suspension upgrades...

I know by the time I've spent my money on those upgrades that I've spent enough money for a kit but I dont want too much of a lift any ways... I just want the rake get rid of the rake and have better suspension and stronger components in the suspension...

Any thoughts on my plans would be great for all you suspension gurus out there....

p.s. anyone know the part number for our rear springs w/o the air shocks ???? Deaver is asking me for them soo they can refference it with the springs they're planning on selling to me ....

OrangeCrush

02-08-2009, 01:10 AM

Anybody else know of a more affordable upgrade shock upgrade for the Truxxx 2.5/3F-1.5R Lift?

Yeah, buy a set of bilsteins (roughly 80 bucks a shock) for an HD2500

Mark

EastTexan

02-19-2009, 06:10 AM

I have had half a dozen Chevy trucks that I just cranked the torsion bars on, including two 2500HDs, and they did okay. On my 2005 2500HD I installed the Cognito Motorsports leveling kit (2 - 3") with the shock extensions and Bilsteins, and now I have a solid 12" clearance under the front skid plate with 33" tires and love the ride quality.

Tomorrow on my 2008 H2 SUV Lux I am having installed some keys ($90 w/ s&h off ebay, with shock extensions), (I know now that I should have just bought the GM green leys and skipped the extensions), and 2" rear spring spacers ($42 w/ s&h off ebay). I told the installer to just raise the front 2" and leave off the shock extensions. Of course I will also have it aligned.

I am sticking with the stock 35" tires until they need replacing, and am leaving off the shock extensions.

I like the factory rake. Besides, without the rake, when you put a load on, it would look like the rear end was sagging.

If I don't like the ride or vibration or something else doesn't jive I will take the next step - the Cognito Motorsports leveling kit (2 - 3"). :beerchug:

Bimmer9938

02-19-2009, 06:17 AM

I've read that those e-bay keys break, I'd send them back. Besides the Truxxx have a lifetime warranty.

EastTexan

02-19-2009, 06:35 AM

There are many different keys on eBay. The Truxxx keys are made of solid steel that are laser cut. The $90 keys I bought are made of forged steel. The stock keys are cast steel. I think the $90 forged steel ones will be less likely to break than the stock cast steel ones.

EastTexan

02-19-2009, 06:40 AM

Oh yeah, the $90 key kit also has a lifetime warranty, and the seller (levelingsolutions) has 4000+ eBay transactions with 100% approval rating. They also sell the Truxx kit.

EastTexan

02-19-2009, 05:16 PM

So if I am going with keys and stock shocks, am I better to use no shock extension at all?

OrangeCrush

02-20-2009, 02:47 AM

So if I am going with keys and stock shocks, am I better to use no shock extension at all?

I'd say yes. The reason I say that is because when I put keys on and used the shock extensions, I literally had no room for the shocks to compress.

They didn't bottom out while driving on the road but I also didn't hit any bumps.

That's the reason I bought the bilstein shocks so I could remove the shock extensions.

Mark

EastTexan

02-20-2009, 04:54 PM

What are the Bilstein part numbers for an H2 with 2 - 3 inch lift? What about the Bilstein part numbers for a 2500HD shock to fit the H2 with a 2 - 3 inch lift?

SummitUp

02-21-2009, 07:21 PM

What are the Bilstein part numbers for an H2 with 2 - 3 inch lift? What about the Bilstein part numbers for a 2500HD shock to fit the H2 with a 2 - 3 inch lift?
You have two choices:

Bilstein F4-BE5-6243-H5
12" compressed, 19" extended, 7" travel,
It is 389/94 valving which is pretty firm.

Bilstein BE5-6140-T5
11.77" compressed, 18.42" extended, 6.65" travel.
It's valved at 366/240which is very similar rebound, but much firmer compression giving a much firmer ride. Both shocks will work, one will be firm and the other will be really firm.

EastTexan

02-22-2009, 05:23 AM

Very cool, thanks. They are advertised to fit 4" lift F150/250.(?)

EastTexan

02-22-2009, 05:30 AM

Which Bilsteins did you put on the back?

timgco

04-05-2009, 07:09 AM

btt, any updates, pics, good, bad, great? :popcorn:

DuckTruck

05-03-2009, 08:59 PM

UPDATE:

I just had the Cognito 2-3" lift put on the H2. It is a fantastic kit and installation was easy.

Before my rear end was obviously higher than my front, just like every other stock H2. Now, my rear is still at 42" (bottom of fender to ground) and my front end is 43 1/2". Thus, this kit easily gave me 2" of lift if not more.

DUCK

HumminNBoatin'

05-04-2009, 01:40 AM

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" hirer than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches hirer in the front I did not do new shcoks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up

HumminNBoatin'

05-04-2009, 01:41 AM

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" higher than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches higher in the front I did not do new shocks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up.

timgco

05-04-2009, 02:16 AM

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" higher than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches higher in the front I did not do new shocks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up.

Do you have more info. on the rear spacers and pics? Did you do anything different for your brake lines, shocks, or, ride height sensors?

DuckTruck

05-04-2009, 03:06 PM

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" higher than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches higher in the front I did not do new shocks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up.

Yeah, I too would like more info. on the air susp. spacers.

Thanks,

DUCK

HumminNBoatin'

05-04-2009, 05:30 PM

I did not take any pix.

If you take your air spring out you will notice that the weight of the truck rides on a PLASTIC Cylinder with a bolt through the center to the axel to keep in centered.

Unbolt the plastic cylinder. Get some longer bolts to match how much you want to lift. I went 1 1/2" inches higher with the spacers. So I got bolts that were 1 1/2" inches longer. Note MAKE SURE YOU GET GRADE 10.9 BOLTS They are metric. I cannot remember the size. I want to say they are an M10 but do not hold me too it.

Then you need to get washers that will have the same a diameter as the inside surface of the cylinder. Then get 2" PVC pipe and cut your desired spacing height. I cut off two 1-1/2" pieces They (PVC) pipes will encase the bolt and washers and line up with the outer diameter of the cylinder. Run the bolt through the Cylinder, the washes and PVC pipe and torque down.

Get a 4" diameter piece of PVC and cut to same length. This will be outer diameter of the air spring bucket to set on. Snap the air spring back into place and inflate it buy putting the hose in your mouth so you can line up the outer PVC spacer with the spring on the axel. Then hook the lines to your compressor. Hit it with some flat black paint and your done building the spacer.

I know it sounds hokey etc.... But it works and it works well. I immediately flexed the hell out of the suspension and inspcected to make sure nothing was loos or moving around. Everything held Extremely tight even with the suspension all twisted.

I did not take any pix I will take some with my cell phone at lunch so you can see the end result.

After adding the spacers you have to trick the height sensors by adjusting them to get desired ride height. I used a Tec2 to do this.

HumminNBoatin'

05-04-2009, 07:40 PM

Ok I took some pix with my BB at lunch.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc80/esitterle/Airide%20Spacers/IMG00029.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc80/esitterle/Airide%20Spacers/IMG00028.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc80/esitterle/Airide%20Spacers/IMG0002700000.jpg

DuckTruck

05-04-2009, 09:01 PM

Nicely done!

DUCK

HumminNBoatin'

06-02-2009, 03:22 PM

The truck before the discussed lift:
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc80/esitterle/Winch%20Bumper%20Install/DSCN0785.jpg

And after the discussed lift:
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc80/esitterle/Winch%20Bumper%20Install/DSCN2139.jpg

Egan

05-26-2013, 04:28 PM

Warning: the shock extensions I have seen are too tall for OEM length H2 shocks. To test this, ensure vehicle is on level ground at stock ehight in the front and resting on the bump stops, disconnect the bottom of the shock and see if you can push it up higher then where it would mount to the shock extension bracket. If you can't push it up where the shock's bolt hole goes up higher than the hole in the shock extension, you are either riding on a bottomed out shock if or slamming down on a bottomed out shock when the front end comes down on the bump stops. The latter is the case if you have cranked the TBs. This is true with all H2 shock extensions that I have seen to date. Yes, this is another mark against Truxx.

The reason this is a problem is because these companies assume the H2's shocks are the same as the 2500HD pickup trucks. The shocks are not the same and only have half of the travel that the 2500HDs have.

To correct this problem you must determine the proper amount to shorten the shock extension (to get your shocks into the right range of travel) or use the 2500HD shocks.

The reason the H2's have less travel is because they have extension and compression bump stops in them where the 2500HD shocks only have extension stops. This takes some of the travel away.

Here is the way you need to think about it: Consider the fact that you are pushing up the bottom of the shock much higher than you would be when at factory height and resting on the frame mounted stops.

If anyone doubts what I am saying here, call Rancho and ask them why their online Shock Specifications show H2's shocks with 2.5" of travel and the 2500HD has 4.6". You can also see in this same manual there is a symbol next to the H2's shocks in two places. This "cross" symbol is shown for both compressed length and extended length. This shock symbol is there to inform you of the included bump stops. Notice the 2500HD shocks only show the symbol once?

Also, for those of you thinking it is okay to rest on the stops - think again. Your shocks will start degrading very quicky as you are beating the heck out of them. I went through several sets of shocks and my ride quality went horrible fast - compared to a new vehicle. This was the cause of it!

BTW, my ride quality with torsion bars cranked is much better than stock now

Sorry to bump and old thread, but I found this during an image search on Google and it turns out to be good timing because I am putting together my front suspension right now.

I have Cognito UCA's, Truxx shock extenders and keys, and plan to crank the torsion keys up 2" or so. I bought Bilstein 5100's from http://www.dmaxstore.com and after reading the above bold section I probably ended up with the 2500HD shocks (part# F4-BE5-D146-H1). I have the driver's side done and I had to compress the snot out of the shock to get it to line up with the bracket holes (I haven't cranked the keys yet).

If I ended up with the longer travel shocks from the 2500HD, do I need to go back to the stock lower shock mount or am I okay with the extended ones?