HT:

Console

what brand of power inverter would you guys use? I will probably go with something over the needed power.

They all seem to be the same. Don't get one that is too big or it will require direct wire to the battery for its power source.

Install a 1000-1200 watt inverter...

Its big enough to run ANY power tool or even some microwaves...

The cost difference between a 1000-1200 wat inverter is about $40 or half a tank of gas.

$50 of welding cable will install it anywhere in the truck...

The first time you use it to run a needed power tool... or recharge a video camera battery you'll probably consider it paid for.

I used a Xantrex... however some of the "off-brands" are very good.

I agree that you don't need a top of the line inverter (pure sine wave)... but be careful about the "maximum cheapness" ones... just make sure you can return it if you get hissing in your electronics or your transformers overheat.

Beyond that... get it. You will love it! We use our constantly!! Its some of the best money we've spent on the H2.

Running the welding cable from the battery to the inverter under the back seat took about 2 hours.

No big deal.

I am going to need some extended batt terminals, I bet.

Where did you come into the cab of the truck for the batt cable? I think I would rather not do it this way.

If I tap into 12v some where else - where would be a good spot in the back seat area?

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by VTSTOMPER:
I am going to need some extended batt terminals, I bet.

Where did you come into the cab of the truck for the batt cable? I think I would rather not do it this way.

If I tap into 12v some where else - where would be a good spot in the back seat area? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

VT, resist the urge to hookup the inverter anywhere other than the battery terminals. Unless you have a high-end, sine wave inverter, then for the inverter to do it's job and produce clean AC power, you want as little resistance and variability on the lines feeding it the DC power. So big cable direct to power source is the way to go to minimize resistance and variability in the power source.

Plus, if you go with something like a 1000W inverter, you'll want your wires fused with ~150A fuse. Otherwise, you can't take advantage of the higher wattage without blowing the fuses on the lighter upstream wires (kodiakz points this out above). So there's not going to be any existing wiring in the cabin to tap into.

very good to know!

I will go to the batt - where did you enter the cabin? The front gromet, and then run it back under all the goodies?

You guys really are a big help! Thank you all very much! I am not going to have a chance to do this 'til spring anyway...damn winter weather.

Sorry, I don't yet know the routing question. I was originally going to run cable to the back along the door sills and had the same question...where to go through firewall to get from batter to the door sills. I've been too lazy to explore this yet.

Besides, I've decide to take a different approach and run cable along the frame rails to a battery mounted up in the back and come in off the rear mounted battery over the wheel wells. This is a project that I'm planning on before Christmas once I get some other crap off my plate.

I'm installing lights in the next week or so and plan to drill through the edge of "the grommet" to do my switches. If I see a good answer to this question, I'll let you know.

Charles, and many others, probably know where to poke through. I believe he ran the sills. I just don't know where he went through the firewall.

I went through the grommet when I put the Hella's on the brush guard. The crapper was I ended up pushing the whole grommet out when I was trying to puncture it...what a PITA to get it back in the right place. I do not think it is 100% on the inside, it is on the outside, and I sealed it with RTV.

All and all the rest of it was simple.

Running the cable is SOOO EASY you are going to be shocked!

Get under the dash and look above the gas pedal. There is a square of sheet metal (mine's white and I think it is matched to your body coler -the truck, not you). The square measures about 4" x 4".

Pick up a drill and pur a 1/2 or larger hol through it. (Mine needed a 5/8 for the cable).

Run cable through hole, fuse, and grommet or seal with silicon glue (or both).

Get the fuse at an RV dealer (150A) and pay 1/3 the cost of the same fuse at a marine store.

Next pull out the door sill trim from both doors on the driver side. Run the cable under the fron edge of the carpet to the door sill, through the door sill, under the b-piller (use coat hanger and tape to snake, under door sill, and then to where you mounted the inverter under the back seat.

Leave message if you need to know how to mount the inverter.

I also installed battery terminal covers over my terminal lugs on the back of the inverter to avoid "surprise" contact with the hot lead.

Great questions... keep um coming...

Nice work.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by shipbldr:
Running the cable is SOOO EASY you are going to be shocked! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can you toss a pic up of it when you get a chance...I am kind of a visual learner!

Also - do tell on the mounting of the inverter!

You da man!

I'll get you pictures but it's going to have to wait for daylight...

Hong is calling...

cool! Thank you very much!