For those long periods, just rememeber that the nominal was 3.5A; therefore it could jump when it's compressor or heater unit kicks in and possibly draw up to 5 amps.
In addition, a 2 amp draw on a 690 cca battery can drain the battery in 6 hours. Not sure the size in the Hummer, but do not believe it is in the 500 range (anyone know...guess I could check). So, just be careful if you are out in the boonies
You also have a normal parasitic load on the battery, depending on option content (more computers, more drain).

It seems to tight of a spot in the back seat.The console lid hits fridge when opening,the door only opens part way the cup holder does open .The front console is angled so its hard to mount it,I think im going to put it in the cargo area.

I think the best way to wire it is through a rap that way when I leave truck it will shut off.
Is there a rap wire near the cargo area?

I could wire it to rear outlet and use electronic timer relay but if outlet is powered all the time how would the relay reset?Im not sure how they work.Ill have to go to auto parts store and see.any ideas.

Below are several pics

fridge behind console

fridge with cup holder down

fridge with door open,notice it doesnt open that much

fridge with console lid open,it pushes fridge up on angle if mounted lid wouldnt open all the way

fridge up against console,notice top of fridge is a couple inches or so from console it would need to be attached for suport.than console lid wouldnt open enough.

I think its going here in cargo area.Notice cord from net locked in to handle of fridge to stablize it.
Just need way to power using rap circuit so battery doesnt go dead and it will be on while driving.The manual says you can unplug and bring it with you and it will stay cold for a few hours

Is there room to mount it on either side where the side panels are? I am trying to reember how much space was there from memory

Do you mean inside pannel,I dont beleve theres room and I really dont want to cut into panel.
Any pics of cargo area with pannel removed ?.I didnt try to see if it fit in compartment I dont think it will I beleve it has to be upright.

I really wanted clean install look but in the cargo area will work.
Im mostly going to use on trips but it would be nice to have a couple sodas, waters ,and beers in there all the time.

My wife took the H3 to work Ill play with it on sunday.

Any rap wires in the cargo area?
Any info on timer relays ?.

Rear wiper works on the RAP circuit, and pretty sure it runs down the left side of the vehicle since that is the hinge side.
Most timer relays I have seen will set their internal time when power is lost. They reset when power is applied again. So, a RAP circuit might be good for this application.
But if using an electronic timer relay, I would just recommend tapping into the accessory plug circuit. Since the RAP goes off when the door is opened, that only gives you a max of 20 minutes if you remained in the vehicle.
If you got a timer with 2 hours, then the accessory power would be ok. But the final decision is yours.
Some of the first RAP circuits used by GM were used with timer relays that when ignition power was removed, they would stay powered up for a specified time. Eventually, GM migrated the control of a normal relay via the BCM. The BCM would power up a relay at start up, and turn it off twenty minutes after the power was lost, or a door switch indicated a door was opened.
Now, with the newer BCMs (like on the H3), the BCM operates the RAP circuit directly without any relay in the circuit.
Change is good...
Someday soon, you will see a VCM (Vehicle Control Module) a module that will control all the required electronics on the vehicle; a combination of the BCM, PCM, Brake Control Module, and all other modules. It will be programmable to handle either an auto or a manual, with or without ABS/TC/Handling. It might even incorporate XM and Onstar.

If you got a timer with 2 hours, then the accessory power would be ok.

If I hook a timer relay to accessory outlet in back how would it reset if the outlets always hot.

The rap wire in tailgate is it live when trucks running or switched by wippers? color ?

Im a pain in the ass

Very good points, and yes you are right.
One, the relay would never reset with the accessory power.
Two, the RAP feed to the rear wiper is via the switch on I/P; I wasn't thinking correctly (do I ever? Besides it's FRIDAY )
So, it appears the closest and easiest feed for RAP power is off this switch, since it is very easy to remove that center I/P trim panel.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">So, it appears the closest and easiest feed for RAP power is off this switch, since it is very easy to remove that center I/P trim panel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
So if I use the wire on the rear wipers at the switch I wouldnt need any relay.
Do you know color otherwise Ill use a test light.
souldnt be hard to run a wire from dash to cargo area.
It has to go in cargo area in back seet doesnt seem to work out as shown in picks.


I wasn't thinking correctly (do I ever? Besides it's FRIDAY )

Also f5 I searched rear panel removal all I got is info on you e mailing to others could you e mail it to me at fourfourto@yahoo.com I think Ill put a 12 volt outlet under the one in the cargo area and have it hooked up to rap,
thanks

It's the yellow wire going into the switch. There is a 15 amp fuse on that particular circuit, so it would be safe to run the cooler or the heater BUT ONLY if the rear wipers were not on. If they were on, and the cooler, I would almost bet you would blow a fuse. When a wiper starts up out of park, it requires quite a power surge, then levels off, and the rear wiper is intermittent so it parks every sweep.
But remember that, it should be ok.
But it would not be hard to run to an auto supply and pick up a relay.
Connect the yellow wire to the coil side of the relay, and the other other side of the coil connect to the black wire at the switch. The coil will be energized anytime the RAP circuit is powered up.
Then run a power wire from the accessory plug next to the switch, to the relay, and run a wire from the relay back to the location in the rear panel.

I'll send off the removal procedure.

l think I sent the procedure, let me know. I didn't get a notification that it was sent correctly.

I got it thanks



There is a 15 amp fuse on that particular circuit, so it would be safe to run the cooler or the heater BUT ONLY if the rear wipers were not on. If they were on, and the cooler, I would almost bet you would blow a fuse. When a wiper starts up out of park, it requires quite a power surge, then levels off, and the rear wiper is intermittent so it parks every sweep.
But remember that, it should be ok.


The fridge will be on all time so if I hit the wiper I could have problems.Is there another rap that would be better ?.I rather cut into 1 wire than 3 using relay.
But if you think it should be ok I could try it if it blowes a fuse I can put in a relay.
I dont use that 1/3 stroke rear wiper to much anyway , not that you can see anything out of the rear window .I have the rear cam up most of the time.It works good in the rain

Are there any rap wires in the back were the trailering wires are ?
Does the power wire for the back outlet run up into the dash were I can cut wire and splice into rap wire making the rear outlet rap?

Im gonna work on it tommorow any ideas on last posts?

Since I don't kow what the hell RAP Circuit is, couldn't you just wire it to an ACC fuse like I did for my CB install?

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums/a/frm/f/6706011751

This shuts off when you turn the truck off.