<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tonka61:
then my suggestion to you is move up and join the rest of us and get an h1. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Ok, we have a little ZT/BR going on. So, which is it? Do you drive an H2 or an H1 every day?

Screw it, I don't feel like playing. First you said you drive a "stick shift" every day and your wife drives an auto. Is the "stick shift" in the H2 or H1?

Then you are not going to buy and H3, then you are, then you are not again, then you might, then you.......... idiot. Understand how all of this works. If you are going to try to pretend, at least keep your stories consistent.

Jackass:

I am getting out of this thread----I will send you stuff on your e-mail.

Lift kits, as said here, are a personal preference--for show or for off-road.

Sorry HGW. Try to continue and ignore the side stuff. I hate seeing good information get drowned but I hate liars and idiots giving out bad info like this tonka guy worse.

Please hang in there and provide the info. Your experience is invaluable.

whats wrong with owning many vehicle ass wipe...you started the bs in the first place...so dont turn it on me ass wipe.

I will post some more info soon.

Would you guys with the Fabtech do me a favor?

Measure the distance between your front tires. Just pick a tread on each side and then use the same treads on the rear and meaure that.

The last Fabtech 6" I had in the shop has the rear wheels two inches less wide than the front wheels.
I need to know if this is standard for the kit or my client had a real bad install? I suspect that the replaced front spindles/knuckles widen the front end?

Since there has been some interest in lift kit types, I thought I would pass on this pic as an explanation.

I will call theses kits non-commercial kits--as opposed to Fabtech or Rancho. Others on here have the kits I am about to describe.

The pic here shows a FTS, 6.5" lift. With these systems, the upper conrol arms are moved downward by the use of drop down brackets. There is cutting involved which makes the system hard to reverse if you want to sell the H2 without the lift.

The lower cage bolts to the existing H2 frame, lowering the lower control arm. The upper control arm is then bolted into the drop down brakets. This "Lowering of the upper and lower control arms, raises the H2 the 6.5 inches.

Note that the stock distance between the upper and lower control arms is maintained. Also the front sway bar retains it origional confiquration. The dual shock hoop mounts to the origional shock mount and to the origional upper control arm mounts.

Pic with upper control arm.

Note stock tie rod---is replaced now with a stronger rod and heim joint.

Is that the stock upper control arm or an aftermarket one?

That is an aftermarket tubular control arm--stronger and better looking than stock.

You can use a stock upper control arm with the FTS package--they provide a weld on/bolt on bracket (I forget which) for the shocks--similar to Fabtech.

I just like the look of the tubular.

Pic with King Shocks installed:

Stainless steel brake lines not yet installed--used to extend due to lift height. Old rusty tie rod still on this old pic.