Phil:
I will have all that info to you asap--need to retreive some pics and crop them.

JAS

Hey, cool. I just noticed the shocks mount to the upper control arm. Phil, I wonder if you could do a setup like HGW has there with the upper control arm and shock hoop and some King coilovers and then dump the torsion bars?

That would be a good question for a good engineer and then a discussion with Bret King of King Shocks.

Need to match the spring rate of the torsion bars(a torsion bar is just a straight spring!) with that of the coil overs. There is more to this---later though--must work now.

Here is the formula for calculating the torsion bar spring rate.<UL TYPE=SQUARE>Spring rate (pounds per inch) = [(1,120,000) x (d^4)]/[(L) x (l^2)]

L = Torsion bar length
d = Torsion bar diameter
l = Lever arm length (distance from wheel centerline to torsion bar)[/list]

Here is a pic of my Black H2 rear end--the previous pics were from my Yellow H2 with a 6.5 lift.

This one has a 12" lift but the rear end is essentially the same--and I had a pic available.

The panhard bar was replaced with a tubular one for greater strength--this I made since it does not come with the kit.

The adjustable panhard bar stabilzer bar does come with the kit. It is adjusted so that the rear end can be aligned. Then, once it is right, the drop down bracket has a second bolt hole---in the pic it is a blue dot in the chrome drop down bracket---a bolt is put into this for stability. That bolt, along with the stabilzer bracket makes the rear end track true, even with 12" of lift and another 3" of lift bec. of the tires.

On this kit, the sway bar links are not adjustable. I am replacing these with adjustable ones since I want the sway bar to be lowered slightly. These current links would have been fine except I entended the swat bar about two inches back from their rear mounts so that it did not hit the larger rear dif cover I installed.

The higher you go, the more these little details matter.

NOTE: The small tires are on the H2 for the front and rear end alignment--rear first obviously. The big boys do not fit the alignment machines.

I have the same details on my 6.5 lift, except with adjustable sway bar links, just no pic available right now.

HGW, the driver's side D-ring is crooked.

Looks like you need a rope ladder to come out the back.

Phil:

To answer--the adjusters are easy and an alignment is also easy---I set them for 3 degrees positive caster--the max the adjusters will let me.


The FTS kit comes with a stock diameter front drive shaft using a CV joint just like Fabtech.

The BulletProof kit does not--their belief is that you can build them locally for the same price or cheaper since there is no mark up-----on their 12 inch kit both front and rear driveshafts need to be lengthened so I do have them built locally--beefed up, balanced, and use better U joints--I use a CV joint in front. I have a guy who builds them for all types of race cars and he is a pain in the ass as a person but a real pro.

When I have drivshafts made, I increase the front diameter since the extra cost of the diameter is minimal--it is the assembly, balancing, and U joints that cost--the shaft size is nil.

On heim joints--there are various grades available and thet are usually not used on the street since they do wear out fairly quickly--the cheaper the faster.

Hiya Guys
Hey HWG so if I understand the Fabtech wideneds the frontend 3 inch total? FTS does not right? Do you think this is good or bad? Any chance you could post some pic's of your yellow Hummer front, back, side I have a Yellow 05. Can you order the E&G fender flares?
Tim AKA Jackass

Tim:

I will send you a PM.

41x14.50x20's and yes they rub you will have to trim if this is the route you will choose.

How right you are PhilD---road driving is one thing--off road is another.

Here is a shot of the front end of my black H2--a 12" lift with another 3" with the tires on.

Ths front shocks have a 12" throw--but if I was off roading, I would have had them made differently.

hey, I can articulate fully with no rub problems, its just a matter of how much trimming you do.

Hey Salt Lake what setup you got on that? Tires and lift?

Tim

sorry i dont have a pic of a more challenging obsticale, but i have no rubbing problems. and to answer the question posed by jackass its a fabtech 6" with nitto mud grapplers 40x15.50 on a weld evo slingblade 22X9.5.
Thanks

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I sometimes think I should just get a small safe car and stay at home </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Now what fun would that be?