I'm waiting for the bugs to be worked out of some new equipment -and waiting for crafty installers to figure out the ins and outs of tearing up an H2. But I don't want to be without my bass, so I went ahead and installed my sub box and amp. The only outputs I could find don't have variable volume... does anybody know which are the right line outputs?

-Jack
Yellow H2 adv. pkg.
Alaska to ??? June '03
www.sunspotnatural.com

I'm waiting for the bugs to be worked out of some new equipment -and waiting for crafty installers to figure out the ins and outs of tearing up an H2. But I don't want to be without my bass, so I went ahead and installed my sub box and amp. The only outputs I could find don't have variable volume... does anybody know which are the right line outputs?

-Jack
Yellow H2 adv. pkg.
Alaska to ??? June '03
www.sunspotnatural.com

Did you find anything out? I want to add subs as well. Did you consider taping into the output to the factory sub?

Cheers

I'd like to know as well! anyone had success???

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TonkaH2:
I'm waiting for the bugs to be worked out of some new equipment -and waiting for crafty installers to figure out the ins and outs of tearing up an H2. But I don't want to be without my bass, so I went ahead and installed my sub box and amp. The only outputs I could find don't have variable volume... does anybody know which are the right line outputs?

-Jack
Yellow H2 adv. pkg.
Alaska to ??? June '03
http://www.sunspotnatural.com<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The bose units are typical in many GM models. I have seen in other forums I sponsor schematics of the pinouts. I think mostly on Tahoe/Suburban and Avalanche sites.

Keep in mind that the Bose setup has the amplifiers built on the front speakers.

The factory sub if I remember correctly is under the dash console forward of the shifter someplace. At least that's where I think it was when mine was gutted.

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2002 Vette; Vortex Intake, Vortech S/C, Stage II heads, comp cam (220/220/114/.581), 3.90 gears, 14 inch cross drilled rotors, 170 stat, NGK TR6, B&M Ripper Shifter, Autometer Boost & Fuel pressure gauges on a-pillar, Hotchkis Sway Bars, HRE 543 wheels (F:265/35 R:295/35), Z06 titanium exhaust, RK LT headers, Magnaflow x-pipe, Programming by Morgan Motorsports, 5% tint, AA Frame & Rocker Savers, TB Bypass, Lowered 2", Custom Audio;570 RWHP Dyno Here

2003 H2; 37 inch tires, Manik Off-Road pkg., Airaid Intake, Custom Audio

I'll checkout some other sites -at least I know the speakers and all the outputs I tried rolloff below 45hz, and there's nothing at all by 30hz. We need to check for the factory sub again though.

-Jack
Yellow H2 adv. pkg.
Alaska to ??? June '03
www.sunspotnatural.com

Grab a Phillips screw driver, jump in the back seat, unscrew the two screws in the center consol rear seat control panel and the one on top inside the storage compartment. Carefully pull off the Molex’s for the heated seats, 12volts power supplies and stereo controls. Remove the panel. On the floor you will notice the factory Bose Amplifier that runs the entire system. There are two Molex’s attached to the Amp. The passenger side (Right Side) contains the outputs from the sub amp. The output is crossed over at 85Hrtz. This is your only option for grabbing lineout frequencies for your sub amp as the factory deck sends a very low voltage high impedance signal to the amplifier that also functions as an electronic crossover. You will need to get a hi/low converter and an amplifier that can take hi voltage in. This is you’re the best option I know of. I tried it and lived with it for a while before I redid the entire system.

Good Luck.
SJ

Last Friday I installed 4 MBQuart speakers, a Xtant 5Ch amp, and a 10" Orion sub in a ported box. I left the factory head unit until I can get more definitive answers reading this forum on how to move forward with a replacement. At any rate, all of the connections were made at the factory amp. The only issue that my installer had was the signal for the sub. Although there was both a positive and a negative lead, it seemed as only one was producing a usable signal. The Xtant amp that I have can be adjusted to receive the high output signal and now I'm VERY happy with the improvement in audio in my H2.

I'm ready for Video....but not sure what I want to do yet. I don't like the flip up screens in the dash because they will cover the vents and also I'm concerned that the single DIN install will not look clean. I would like to install a monitor in the factory head unit's place....a cd/mp3 player where the Onstar is located (which means Onstar needs to be relocated?????), and headrest monitors with a PS2/DVD player. I would like to add a TV monitor to the system as well. I received a response from PhilD about a Necvox system but I am unable to find any info about this nor have I found anyone who has heard of that brand.....

Anybody have any suggestions ?????

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>I'm ready for Video....but not sure what I want to do yet. I don't like the flip up screens in the dash because they will cover the vents and also I'm concerned that the single DIN install will not look clean. I would like to install a monitor in the factory head unit's place....a cd/mp3 player where the Onstar is located (which means Onstar needs to be relocated?????), and headrest monitors with a PS2/DVD player. I would like to add a TV monitor to the system as well. I received a response from PhilD about a Necvox system but I am unable to find any info about this nor have I found anyone who has heard of that brand.....

Anybody have any suggestions ?????<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not all flips block the vents if installed properly. Since its a double din opening, mount a single din flip screen in the lower of the 2 din's. I have an alpine flip that does not block the vents.

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2002 Vette; Vortex Intake, Vortech S/C, Stage II heads, comp cam (220/220/114/.581), 3.90 gears, 14 inch cross drilled rotors, 170 stat, NGK TR6, B&M Ripper Shifter, Autometer Boost & Fuel pressure gauges on a-pillar, Hotchkis Sway Bars, HRE 543 wheels (F:265/35 R:295/35), Z06 titanium exhaust, RK LT headers, Magnaflow x-pipe, Programming by Morgan Motorsports, 5% tint, AA Frame & Rocker Savers, TB Bypass, Lowered 2", Custom Audio;570 RWHP Dyno Here

2003 H2; 37 inch tires, Manik Off-Road pkg., Airaid Intake, Custom Audio

PewterPower,

The best thing you can do for your system is replace that factory head unit. You have selected great components, but the head unit and factory crossed-over amp is a major bottleneck in your system.

For reference, I had my system installed (Two pairs of Focal Utopia 165s front and back, two 8" Kicker Midbass in custom kick panels, two JL 13W7's in a vented enclosure powered by two JL 1000/1's, one JL 450/4, and one JL 300/2) with the factory deck for about 1 week. I was happy for a few days as the system sounded 100% better than the factory bose system. However, it didn’t take long to tell that the system was being choked by the factory deck. I replaced the factory deck with the new Pioneer AVHP6500DVD touch screen. It doesn't block the vents and it made a night and day difference to the sound quality of the system. I also installed a remote learning module to keep the existing steering wheel controls operational with the new pioneer deck.

Trust me, change the deck and you will not be disappointed.

As for monitors, I would suggest a single monitor in the dash. The headrest monitors attract a lot of attention at night and offer law enforcement a great reason to pull you over.

Good Luck,

SJ

Shaheen,
Thanks for the advice. I KNOW that I want to replace it I'm just not sure with what..and I don't want to "break" anything in the process. I am aware that there is a module to make the steering wheel controls work..and I believe there is one for the Onstar. My concern with the dask mounted single din unit is "What does it look like when it's closed ?". I have all of my stereo work done at a local store Sound Advice and I'm not satisfied with their description of "custom" around that installation.

Do you have any pictures of the in-dash unit when the screen is not out ??

Thank you !

BTW....my Hummer dealership is sponsoring a driving clinic on Sunday. I'm so excited and I will have lots of pics afterward to share !!

phil,
Do you have that unit installed?? I'd love to see pix of it in the H2's console.

thanks for all of the help.

PhilD

On your monitor setup - could you view a rear camera componet if installed?

"It's what you learn, after you know it all, that counts - John Wooden

check out this thread....
http://www.elcova.com/groupee/forums?a=tpc&s=2826088551&f=6706011751&m=144603484 3&r=1446034843#1446034843

Re: Hooking up a sub & amp to the stock Bose while I wait for my new gear
 

what wires did you use on the harness you referred to?

Re: Hooking up a sub & amp to the stock Bose while I wait for my new gear
 

I have the PAC-gm harness from ebay when i waited for my gear and it worked great with the bose onstar setup!!! Still got it to pm me and Ill send it out!

Re: Hooking up a sub & amp to the stock Bose while I wait for my new gear
 

I'll have pics of the new kenwood 9140 installed in a couple days.. close to oem radio size. nav, video, cam...does it all.

Re: Hooking up a sub & amp to the stock Bose while I wait for my new gear
 

I use this same interface on my H2, I have the factory Navi with stock bose system with 1 12" sub in a sealed box running off an Alpine amp. For simply piggybacking the factory system it sounds pretty amazing and I have had quite a few people shocked that its still the factory system with one 12" woofer. I also run the Nucleus ipod adaptor which displays the song title and artist on the factory navi screen. For the overall investment it sounds fantastic and with the ipod adaptor I have most of the functions of a high end navi aftermarket unit.