[ChuckE]

While I did the diode mod a couple months ago, and it works just fine, exactly like it is supposed to, the one thing I didn't like was the loss of the ability to run with only the parking lights on. By the way, to confirm what has already been mentioned, a small diode is all that is needed. The current draw for the relay, used to turn on the DRLs, is only 150 ma (0.15 amp).

To have no DRLs with the parking lights, is something that I still wanted when I go cruising in the Christmas Lane area of town (hundreds of houses lit up, and people cruise through without their headlights on – very holidayific!). The DRLs being on would be pretty annoying.

When I installed the diode, a while back, I used a "wire nut" (a little twisty thing that you put over the bare wires to tighten the two wires together. I figured that if ever I wanted to revert back to the original working all I needed to do was untwist the wire nut.

Yeah, that works, of course, but I wanted a cleaner solution. So, since I was under the hood to wire in some other accessory, I decided to bring the wires out for the DRL mod. It is a simple switch that I mounted on the dash, directly in series with those two wires.

Switch on (contacts bridged) and the mod is in place, giving me the DRLs on with the headlights.

Switch off (contacts open) and the action is like original. Thus I can have just the parking lights on (no DRLs).

AL MOORE had mentioned this a while back, but I only thought I’d resurrect the subject, to remind people that you can have both modes, with a simple switch. (Bringing the wires through the firewall was the HARD part, but I was already doing that for the other wiring I was doing anyway.)