<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sclui56:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">BTW, the only wires in the cab are the wires to teh switches to turn the relays on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Those are the wires everyone is talking about, they came from the relays if the installation was proper, and the relays are in the engine compartment, so it has to have a connection through the firewall, hence the struggle with the "boot" or a new opening.
Now, if the installation was done with a remote switch (receiver in the engine bay), then there's no need to go thru the firewall, but most of us use the traditional hard-wire method. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
That’s exactly what we are tacking about. You only need to run one single wire (let’s say a 14 g, wire) from the switch in the cab to the relay, the other two are power and ground which can be pulled from the fuse box in the cab. Therefore how are you pulling or connecting the wire from the switch to the relay without cutting a hole in the firewall or f@!#ing with the rubber boot?