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09-04-2005, 11:08 PM
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Hummer Expert
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 915
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09-04-2005, 11:08 PM
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Hummer Expert
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 915
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09-04-2005, 11:09 PM
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Hummer Expert
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 915
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It is important to do the last step -
use the packaging that the part came in and hit with a rubber malett. This pops it all in place real good.
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09-04-2005, 11:14 PM
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Hummer Veteran
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 185
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Looks good! I wish they made this one in black...
__________________
\'06 H3: Slate Blue, Lux Cashmere, OffRoad, Auto, Sunroof, XM, Rails, Racks, and Guards.
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09-04-2005, 11:37 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 324
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Nice crotch.
Only kidding.
Looks good! I am still waiting for them to get them in. Did yours come with the locking cap?
__________________
\"In the poker game of life, women are the rake man. They are the f$#@%n\' rake.\"
__________________________________________________ _____________________
\'06 H3 - Birch White, Auto, Lux Pack (with Homelink), Chrome Pack (with Crossbows), Chrom
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09-05-2005, 12:06 AM
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Hummer Veteran
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
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Nice job! I have been contemplating on putting mine on. I wasn't sure if I should attempt it, or have the dealer do it. I am just a little leary on drilling holes into the body panel. Btw, what did u use to remove the existing filler cup? If i try this, is there anything you would recommend to make the job go easier? Also Lyunch hummer has these in stock. They had 18 of them when i ordered mine. (About a week ago). It took 2 days to arrive and it DOES NOT come with a locking cap.
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09-05-2005, 02:41 PM
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Hummer Expert
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 915
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No locking cap.
In the instructions it says to use a thin plastic putty knife. I think this is to long and really to fat to get underneath.
I used a skinny flat screw driver - shoved it in and pryed back a little. The existing filler cup pops out in each section. Yes you may scuff a little bit of paint but this is little this way and not where it can be seen (since it will be covered after re-install.
The drilling isn't that difficult because a very nice template is provided. I just started with a small size and kept working up in sizes to make the drilling easier.
I think the best advice I can give is - since the new cap has some room outside the chrome you could potentially mess up [a little] and still wouldn't see because the black rubber would hide it. The template works well and I think anyone that takes there time could do a better job then someone at a dearlership.
Not better because of skills but because they are patient and their boss isn't hounding them to hurry. This doesn't take any mechanical skill or no-how to do.
Maybe just the no-how of which way the bit needs to turn.
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09-05-2005, 02:43 PM
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Hummer Veteran
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 194
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tones h3 is this a factory chrome door ? I thought they were on hold ?
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09-05-2005, 03:25 PM
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Hummer Veteran
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 193
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tony d:
tones h3 is this a factory chrome door ? I thought they were on hold ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Newly shipped locking doors come with the locking cap. But many dealers still got the old version in stock (or know where they can still get the old version w/o the locking cap).
I only ordered the locking cap and left out the chrome door. There's no way I'd drill holes into the body of my H3 just for decoration purposes. I'm going to install the offroad lamps and I simply HATE the fact that therefore I will need to drill ONE little hole into the body (to let the cables go through).
Also... what did you guys do to prevent the holes from picking up rust in the future? And don't tell me you didn't think about that at all... because then your blingbling chrome door will become an ugly rust surround within the next couple of years.
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09-05-2005, 03:56 PM
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Hummer Expert
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 915
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The material I drilled into didn't seem to be steel. More like a fiber glass. Anyway I just put some primer and touch up paint to make sure.
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09-05-2005, 04:34 PM
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Hummer Veteran
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
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yes this is a gm hummer factory chrome door. mine did not come with a locking fuel cap whatsoever.
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09-05-2005, 04:48 PM
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Hummer Guru
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,060
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H3 Hummer:
No locking cap.
In the instructions it says to use a thin plastic putty knife. I think this is to long and really to fat to get underneath.
I used a skinny flat screw driver - shoved it in and pryed back a little. The existing filler cup pops out in each section. Yes you may scuff a little bit of paint but this is little this way and not where it can be seen (since it will be covered after re-install.
The drilling isn't that difficult because a very nice template is provided. I just started with a small size and kept working up in sizes to make the drilling easier.
I think the best advice I can give is - since the new cap has some room outside the chrome you could potentially mess up [a little] and still wouldn't see because the black rubber would hide it. The template works well and I think anyone that takes there time could do a better job then someone at a dearlership.
Not better because of skills but because they are patient and their boss isn't hounding them to hurry. This doesn't take any mechanical skill or no-how to do.
Maybe just the no-how of which way the bit needs to turn.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Drilling? Prying? WTH? It looks great, but ****. Sounds like a lot of work for a fuel door that doesn't lock. Make sure you use touch up paint even if you cannnot see the
Mark(s) from prying.
I like the red BTW!
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TAIL RATED!
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09-05-2005, 06:02 PM
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Hummer Authority
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: On the Beach or at the River
Posts: 1,204
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drilling and prying make it sound hard. If you take out the plastic panel under the fender it is easy to pop out the old one from the back with no prying needed. This will also make last step easier and no mallet will be needed. As far as drilling, the material is only plastic so rust is not a concern. Entire project should take between 30 min. to 1 hour. In LA traffic, it took me longer to drive to and from the dealership to buy the cap.
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