Okay, let?s start this all over....

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by TTLex

The aftermarket keys just give you more adjustment due to the indexing of the keys (starting point) than the stock keys. Either way you are putting the same amount of tension on them.

Actually, you’re not... that’s the whole point of using the keys. You can get the same lift without the same pressure/tension on a set of green or aftermarket keys.

They look freaking killer but they do rub at full lock on the back front fender flare (closest to the doors).

How much trimming would you think you’d have to do? (I’m assuming you’re trimming just the bottom couple of inches if you had to trim??)

I just put in suspension maxx 1.5" spacer in the rear and I have some green keys that I am putting in tomorrow. I have my stock keys cranked just about all the way, an I am sitting roughly 3/4 in lower in the front than the back with the spacers. Im going to install the green keys and crank them to level with the rear,

The green key will allow you to level the truck out and I’ll bet the ride will be the same as it is now. When I installed the spacers in the rear yesterday, they were 2” and cranking up the torsion bars made it level but tight (er)

The one issue that I did notice is that when I put the rear spacers in, the rear end moved out to the right of the truck roughly 3/4" to 1" due to the increased height and stock length panhard bar. To remedy that I ordered a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. Thats going on tomorrow as well, and that will pull the axle back over to where its supposed to be. The Spohn piece is the only adjustable panhard bar I could find, and it is a real nice quality piece (looks like it anyhow).

I’m glad you mentioned that... I was worried about that when I lifted it some more but forgot to check it out after the alignment. I’ll bet it kicked my rear end out to one side.

I’ll check it out tomorrow. If it is, I guess I’ll be ordering the same bar. Thanks for the suggestion.


So tomorrow its install green keys, install and adjust panhard bar, off to the alignment and see where we are. Its amazing how much different 1.5" looks.

One side note...these freaking keys are not easy to install without the proper tool. Being the kinda guy I am, I didnt want to spend $100 on a one time use tool. We took a large C clamp and welded a nub on the top to fit like the real tool does. Go the old keys out no problem, bent the **** out of it trying to get the green keys back in. So we went with a larger and beefier clamp.....bent the **** out of it too. Tomorrow we are trying a 7 ton 2 jaw gear puller that others have used succesfully. Crossing my fingers.....at this point I am determined to not buy the tool.....im hard headed!

LOL, you cheap bastard, just go buy the right tool. I tried the C clamp method and if you get the right one, you can make it work but it’s not worth it, IMO.

My clamp was $169 bucks but worth every penny.

I ordered tires tonight, I’ll post pics in a week or so when they arrive.


Mark

[TTLex]

LOL, you cheap bastard, just go buy the right tool.

No ****, I just bought the cognito UCA's, cognito steering components, Kryptonite tie rods, rancho stabilizer, new wheels and tires, green keys, spacers, panhard bar, and a warn light bar with 4 PIAA's.......yet I cant bring myself to buy a $150 tool!

Actually, you’re not... that’s the whole point of using the keys. You can get the same lift without the same pressure/tension on a set of green or aftermarket keys.

I gotta disagree with you on this one. The point of the aftermarket keys is they allow you to adjust further than the stock keys, it has nothing to do with the tension. For example, I could pull the stock keys out and put them back in with my make shift c clamp tool, yet I couldnt get the green keys back in without bending it. The reason being is the green keys indexing already puts a certain amount of tension on the bars out of the gate. The green keys are like having the stock keys cranked up almost all the way, yet gives you more room to keep adjusting. Less adjustment to get to the same place, yet same amount of tension on the bars.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by TTLex

No ****, I just bought the cognito UCA's, cognito steering components, Kryptonite tie rods, rancho stabilizer, new wheels and tires, green keys, spacers, panhard bar, and a warn light bar with 4 PIAA's.......yet I cant bring myself to buy a $150 tool!

LOL

I gotta disagree with you on this one. The point of the aftermarket keys is they allow you to adjust further than the stock keys, it has nothing to do with the tension. For example, I could pull the stock keys out and put them back in with my make shift c clamp tool, yet I couldnt get the green keys back in without bending it. The reason being is the green keys indexing already puts a certain amount of tension on the bars out of the gate. The green keys are like having the stock keys cranked up almost all the way, yet gives you more room to keep adjusting. Less adjustment to get to the same place, yet same amount of tension on the bars.

Hmmmm, makes sense, we?ll go with your explanation...lol.

Post pics, I wanna see it.


Mark

[guruerror]

Originally Posted by TTLex

...I gotta disagree with you on this one. The point of the aftermarket keys is they allow you to adjust further than the stock keys, it has nothing to do with the tension. For example, I could pull the stock keys out and put them back in with my make shift c clamp tool, yet I couldnt get the green keys back in without bending it. The reason being is the green keys indexing already puts a certain amount of tension on the bars out of the gate. The green keys are like having the stock keys cranked up almost all the way, yet gives you more room to keep adjusting. Less adjustment to get to the same place, yet same amount of tension on the bars.

There's a good .doc attachment about torsion bars in this thread: http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...+bar+weari ng

Another benefit of the aftermarket keys (Green, Truxxx, etc.) is that they reduce the tension/stress on the adjustment bolts. Apparently cranking the bolts all the way technically pushes them beyond their load capacity because it creates a 'side load' on the bolt itself.

It's a pretty informative read....

[TTLex]

yeah, to be honest with you Im actually happy with the amount of lift in the front with the stock keys, but one of the adusters is maxed out, and the other is about 90% maxed out on adjustment. I figured it would be better to have the green keys and not be maxed out on the adjustment, and then get that extra 3/4" while I was at it.

[TTLex]

Orange, I installed the Spohn adjustable panhard today, easy install, real nice piece. I havent adjusted it yet, but it looks easy to do. There customer service was great too. I called at 3pm on monday to order, i had a tracking number at 3:30, and had the bar tuesday afternoon. Cant beat that!

[pwrhse2k]

Originally Posted by TTLex

Just about everyone of these trucks will have one bolt in further than the other on the torsion adjustment, no worries there. Also, you can crank the stock bars up or use the green keys/ aftermarket keys and crank less......either way you are getting the same quality of ride, meaning it wont be more stiff or less stiff either way. The aftermarket keys just give you more adjustment due to the indexing of the keys (starting point) than the stock keys. Either way you are putting the same amount of tension on them.

I have the Fabtech 6" lift on my H2 and I was running 38's, they matched up perfectly with that lift in my opinion. I just switched them out for Toyo 40x15.5x20's on the Fuel Octane 20x12 wheels. They look freaking killer but they do rub at full lock on the back front fender flare (closest to the doors). I am running the E&G aftermarket flares, but I think they would rub regardless. I can trim it out there and problem would be solved, but Im trying a different route right now.

I just put in suspension maxx 1.5" spacer in the rear and I have some green keys that I am putting in tomorrow. I have my stock keys cranked just about all the way, an I am sitting roughly 3/4 in lower in the front than the back with the spacers. Im going to install the green keys and crank them to level with the rear, this will definitely solve my rubbing issue. Hopefully I wont have any vibration issues from any of the normal areas to be concerned with. I also put the cognito UCA's in which significantly changed the ball joint placement for the better at the cranked height. I think its going to work out fine.

The one issue that I did notice is that when I put the rear spacers in, the rear end moved out to the right of the truck roughly 3/4" to 1" due to the increased height and stock length panhard bar. To remedy that I ordered a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. Thats going on tomorrow as well, and that will pull the axle back over to where its supposed to be. The Spohn piece is the only adjustable panhard bar I could find, and it is a real nice quality piece (looks like it anyhow).

So tomorrow its install green keys, install and adjust panhard bar, off to the alignment and see where we are. Its amazing how much different 1.5" looks.

One side note...these freaking keys are not easy to install without the proper tool. Being the kinda guy I am, I didnt want to spend $100 on a one time use tool. We took a large C clamp and welded a nub on the top to fit like the real tool does. Go the old keys out no problem, bent the **** out of it trying to get the green keys back in. So we went with a larger and beefier clamp.....bent the **** out of it too. Tomorrow we are trying a 7 ton 2 jaw gear puller that others have used succesfully. Crossing my fingers.....at this point I am determined to not buy the tool.....im hard headed!

Yo Jeff, I was looking forward to helping you wrench on your suspension upgrade, but you just left me hangin'. LOL All good, I'd like to see your set-up...What'cha got goin' on this weekend? I can show you my BADASS DMAXED H2 while I'm there.

[TTLex]

I wish I could sit here and say that I actually did the wrenching. This is my busy season at work, so I dropped it off at my buddys shop, he did the tie rods, UCA's and pitman support stuff for me. We both did the springs and keys the other day. He has a full blown speed shop, its so much easier pulling up on a lift and using the air tools and such to do the job. The down side is I have to do it around his paying customers, usually at 7 at night. I just got back from putting the keys in.....and Im proud to say I successfully did it without the correct tool. We used a 7 ton gear puller, worked perfectly.

IM out of town this weekend, but I would definitely be into meeting up sometime soon.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by TTLex

I wish I could sit here and say that I actually did the wrenching. This is my busy season at work, so I dropped it off at my buddys shop, he did the tie rods, UCA's and pitman support stuff for me. We both did the springs and keys the other day. He has a full blown speed shop, its so much easier pulling up on a lift and using the air tools and such to do the job. The down side is I have to do it around his paying customers, usually at 7 at night. I just got back from putting the keys in.....and Im proud to say I successfully did it without the correct tool. We used a 7 ton gear puller, worked perfectly.

IM out of town this weekend, but I would definitely be into meeting up sometime soon.

Dude, I completely understand. I?m fully capable of doing the work on my own truck but I had to have one of my guys install my balljoints and new tie rod ends. I simply don?t have the time right now, we?ve been SLAMMED!!!

Anyway, update on my setup....

I dropped the H2 back off at the dealer. They installed a steering box last week and it?s still not quite right. I dropped the truck off this morning and have been informed that I now need a power steering pump.

I ordered my 40? Toyo MT?s last night, they?ll be here by Monday.

I?ll post pics next week.

Mark