Chassis Lube Points

[finall]

You do have to remove the skid plate.

You do not have to remove the tires. You will need to turn them one way and then the other to get at the lower ball joints on either side.

[kalantar]

Thanks, should we take this to any lube place to do this and what do they generally charge?

[finall]

They will charge you extra for the skid plate removal, and yes, any place can do it. Use synthetic grease for better life.

There is one zerk that is really hidden, (I think that one may be called the pitman or idler arm pivot), and invisible from underneath, and super hard to see from the engine bay. You can feel it from underneath. It is recessed in some metal.

Mine had a straight zerk, and I could not put a grease gun on it. An hour later, I managed by feel to thread out the old zerk and install a 90 degree zerk, so that I could lube the stupidly designed lube point.

[glennf1]

I did all but the Idler Arm pivot (10 total) in my driveway without removing anything with a standard grease gun. As someone mentioned you need to install a 90deg. fitting on it to grease it. Stupid design.

[glennf1]

Originally Posted by Easy Ed

jmsspratlin, No problem. I don't get to contribute much to the site so when I see a chance to help I do.

Having a 2003 with 70,000 miles on it you could say I have got to know it pretty well. Seems like any time I work on it I have the camera handy.

Just did a lube, oil change and tire rotation for the umteenth time and as usual I removed the skid plate to make it easier for me and this time I found the head of a bolt laying on the skid plate.

Turns out one of the drivers side exhaust manifold bolts had the head break off. Going to fix it a soon as I can cause from what I understand the exhaust leak can cause the up stream O2 sensor to get a false reading from the exhaust leaking out the manifold and not passing the sensor. Well it does make sense to me

Later, Ed

I recently had a shop replace all of my exhaust header bolts. GM has newer replacement ones that are stronger and the bolt head is a little bigger. The broken ones came out with a stud remover and PB Blaster, so we got lucky we didn't have to drill any out.

[glennf1]

Reviving this old thread. Years later I finally put in the 90deg. zerk into the idler arm pivot. It's 1/4-28 taper 90deg. stainless steel zerk. It's only a few bucks. You can see it through the front passenger tow hook hole. Take off the skid plate and take it off w/ an open end wrench (I think it was 5/16"...) and put in the new one.
I also bought rubber caps to put on all 11 to keep the crud out of all them.