Door Keypad Keyless Entry

[smwalker]

HI All,

Was wondering if anyone has added an Essex Keyless entry system that consists of a keypad that is mounted to the door. This is similar to the Ford systems that have this option. Walk up and enter a code to unlock your doors.

If you have done this mod can you describe how you wired it, is there a door lock/unlock module on these H2's, where is it located?

We are a limo company that has an all ford fleet except for our new Hummer coming and many things we do for security revolve around that keypad feature. Hope it is going to be an easy install!!

Here is the Item I am talking about:
Essex Keyless Entry

Thanks for any info or guidance!!

[smwalker]

HI All,

Was wondering if anyone has added an Essex Keyless entry system that consists of a keypad that is mounted to the door. This is similar to the Ford systems that have this option. Walk up and enter a code to unlock your doors.

If you have done this mod can you describe how you wired it, is there a door lock/unlock module on these H2's, where is it located?

We are a limo company that has an all ford fleet except for our new Hummer coming and many things we do for security revolve around that keypad feature. Hope it is going to be an easy install!!

Here is the Item I am talking about:
Essex Keyless Entry

Thanks for any info or guidance!!

[HummerNewbie]

I have not tried this system but am interested in it. I have had several Ford SUVs and love that feature. Only took one time loosing my keys on the golf course to realize how wonderful it is. Do you know the pricing on it?

[smwalker]

I am seeing about $200.00 US for the keypad, they sell a relay harness also if you need to use relays for your doors and rear hatch. If I can wire right into the door lock module on the hummer I do not think I would need any relays.

When I do the job I will post a little tutorial about it.

Some Suppliers:
Cruise N Comfort
A1 Electric - Torrance, CA
Mito Corp. Indiana

[smwalker]

Just an update on this item.

I pulled the door panel and it looks like there is plenty of room below the door handle to mount this keypad. I however would like it above the door handle but I think when drilling I would be too close to the glass (even with it all the way up) so I am going to take out the glass when I drill the holes. If you mounted it below the door handle I think the clearance with your drill bit and door glass would be alright as long as you paid attention. I still need to check the clearance above the door handle to make sure the keypad will clear the glass movement, so we will see on that!

I looked at how the door locks are wired in the 2005 hummer and it does not look like a simple relay package will do the job. Luckily they make something called a databus interface module that is a real slick little gizmo. If you have an alarm or remote start on your Hummer chances are you already have one of these or something similar. Basically this things talks to the onboard computer and tells it to lock and unlock your door, turn on and off the alarm, and a few other things like bypassing the passlock security feature if you need to for remote start.

So this Databus interface, model for 05 Hummer is MULTIDL, is another $70.00 but it looks to be the cats meow, easy to install (5 wires) and will save more time than anything. Plus everything will function as a stock hummer does.

Here's the manufactures website for some info:
Bypasskit.com

And here are some retail suppliers for it:
12VoltShop.com
AutoAlarmPro.com

Another thing to note: this keypad made by Essex you see on there the 5 buttons. I thought they would be similar to the ford buttons but in fact they are basically solid plastic and I believe the activation just comes from the heat of your finger becase they do not move to speak of. Which is good as that is one less thing to wear out, but it does feel a little funny to use at first.

So once I get the Databus interface I will be off and runing, will keep the board posted.

Steve Walker
steve@capriceshop.com

[smwalker]

Well finally got this project done and it came out great!

Further investigation revealed that above the door handle there is a second layer of metal in the door that is there to stiffen it up I guess so mounting above the door handle is out.

Wiring: I found constant 12 volt power (orange wire) in the door in one of the plugs (only 3 wire plug) going into the doors switch module and a ground in the same plug (black) these are the main feeds for this switch module as they are of very large (relatively) wire. So to the orange H2 wire connected the red power wire from the Essex KE-1601 keypad and the red power wire from the MULTIDL Databus Module. Then grounded the keypad, MULTIDL, and the programming switch from the Keypad into the black wire. For the lock command the White/Black wire from the keypad connected straight to the Green wire on the MULTIDL. For the unlock command I connected two wires from the keypad, the white/red (unlock) and the violet (auxiliary output), to the blue wire of the MULTIDL. This two wire hookup allows the drivers door to unlock when the right code is entered then withing about 10 seconds if you hit the 3/4 button it unlocks all the other doors on the H2. This is sort of like the second button press with the key FOB. Next the yellow programming wire from the keypad is connected to its push button switch. At this point he MULTIDL is plugged in and powered but you have to save the purple wire for the last connection. This purple wire from the MULTIDL goes to another purple wire on the OBDII connector (Pin #2) under the dash right by the hood release. This was the only tricky part getting this wire through the door boot. But a hanger bent straight went right through the boot into the interior with a little wiggling. Then taped a length of wire connected into the purple wire on the ORDII plug onto the end of the hanger and pulled it through to the door. Then connected it to the purple wire of the MULTIDL. All other wires on the MULTIDL were removed from the harness as we would not need them (mostly stuff for remote start features and alarms). Also many of the wires from the keypad were cut off close to the keypad to keep the harness thin. You really only have to tap into 3 wires on the H2 (power, ground, OBDII) to get this thing to work.



I put the MULTIDL and the keypad programming button high on the harness so they would be accessible just by popping out the drivers door power window switch module. Although you once you program this stuff initially you should not need to for a long time. There was plenty of room in the door panel for this extra stuff. The keypad wiring followed the existing wire harness along the lower part of the door then into the latch area and up to the area beneath the door handle. Here is an upside down picture of it mounted up in the door:


I added some wire loom to the harness for protection

Mounting: First I put some masking tape on the door, found the center of the handle and laid out the template that came with the keypad. Measured about 1.25 inches down from the bottom of the door handle, that looked about right. Clear taped the template to the masking tape and used a center punch to get the holes started. Then went with a very small bit to do a pilot hole. Then a 3/16 drill bit on the two outside holes for the mounting screws then drilled them all to 3/16 to get my step bit started. Then used a step bit to get out to the 9/16 size hole. De-burred the holes then used some waterproof grease on the exposed metal to prevent rust. I suppose you could also tape off and give it a shot of primer to protect it.

Template setup:


Then mounted it up and stuck on the number plate:


Programmed the keypad (real easy) and I was done! Now we can lock our keys in the H2 on a regular basis. On the ford keypads you press the last two buttons at the same time to lock all the doors from the keypad. With the Essex KE-1601 you have to enter code 557 or 559, a little different but we can get used to it.

Please feel free to email me if you have any further questions I will try to help if I can. And if anyone in Los Angeles area wants to this mod drop me a line and I can come walk you through it, or do it for you if you want.

Total cost:
Keypad - $203.75 A1 Electric
MULTIDL - $64.00 AutoAlarmPro.com
Total - $267.75
Took about 4 hours labor

Have Fun!!
Steve Walker
steve@capriceshop.com

[smwalker]

Well just to update this thread after 5 years. Have to replace the
keypad because some of the numbers no longer work on the keypad. They have upgraded the model numbers (and hopefully the quality) of the unit from KE-1601 to AKE-5.

Have a three year warranty on these units from the manufacturer. That sucks!

[Evil Twin]

Nice technical write up!

[06 SUT]

Great write up. I may me interested in doing this.