Picking up a nice used H1 2001 36,000

[Sno Ops]

Hi Guys,
Just thought I would say hi and get you opinions. I'm looking at buying a 2001 H1 with 36,000 miles on her. Any problems I should be aware of on the 2001? I dont think she has even seen a dirt road. Also how do the H1s tow? I'm looking at towing a 7,000 lbs trailer. Thanks for any help.

[ssgharkness020147]

Sounds like a nice truck from your brief description. I would look for service records, this is the most important factor in buying a nice truck. 2001 was a good year, with all the updates minus lockers. As far as towing goes, they are not tow trucks, a 7K load is not going to be easy on the truck. How far of a distance do you plan to pull the trailer?

[3Hummer]

i thought the H1 was able to tow that much? i mean cant the H3 Alpha pull 6000 pounds? and i seriously think the H1 would be easly able to pull more than that.

[KenP]

Originally Posted by 3Hummer

i thought the H1 was able to tow that much? i mean cant the H3 Alpha pull 6000 pounds? and i seriously think the H1 would be easly able to pull more than that.

Just because it CAN tow that much, doesn't mean it'd be an easy drive pulling it.

[mikejr]

Originally Posted by KenP

Just because it CAN tow that much, doesn't mean it'd be an easy drive pulling it.

[BACKNBLACK]

Originally Posted by Sno Ops

Hi Guys,
Just thought I would say hi and get you opinions. I'm looking at buying a 2001 H1 with 36,000 miles on her. Any problems I should be aware of on the 2001? I dont think she has even seen a dirt road. Also how do the H1s tow? I'm looking at towing a 7,000 lbs trailer. Thanks for any help.

Keep in mind the 2001 has the following issues.

1- Power Door Lockouts (Fixed in 2003)
2- Exterior Marker lamps are stil recessed into the body (Fixed in 2002)
3- Wheels were 16.5 anf 17" 2 Piece Star Rims. (Later 2002's had the 2 PC Forged Beadlock Runflats Rims)
4- The Lockers are the Same 2001-2002 Detroit Mechanical Locker (2003 Eaton Electronic Loacker Takes Over :-))
5- 2001 have the 8 cyl block crack issue check the vin number to verify if it was part of the build issues 137ZA is bad :-)
6- Make sure the Geared hub seals have been changed if over 20K and the brakes are fresh (Expensive job)
7- Make sure you do not have any HVAC issues with the 2001-2002 they still had issues until 2003 (Updated GM Components in 2003)
8- Lastly where I got burned on my H1 was the pwer steering box. It leaks (by design I think :-0) but only needed a clamp replacment. make sure if it leaks you check the clamp.

Anything else you want to know please feel free to ask. If i was going to get another H1 I would not get anything besides the 03 it was the H1's best year mechanically. Those words are right out of a Hummer H1 builders mouth)

-Peter

[BACKNBLACK]

Another previos post by me.


Make sure you get a 01 LATE BUILD with the "F" vin change. The Z vin build had 8 cyl crack issues. DO NOT RISK IT unless ypu have $15,000 to replace the engine :-) I learned the hard way on my 01 "Z" vin build.


One of the most visible changes for the 2001 model year is the larger mirrors first seen on the 2000 Slantback. They offer enhanced visibility and are heated. 17" alloy wheels were offered for the first time in '01 and the Monsoon radio was available in Open Top models for the first time. The 6.5L engine supply from AM General's new manufacturing subsidiary, General Engine Products LLC, began showing up in Hummers mid year 2001 and are distinguished by a change in the 4th digit of the VIN from "Z" to "F". A welcome change for long time Hummer owners was a substantial upgrade to the Idler and Pitman arms. Many older Hummers have upgraded to these much improved components. Other changes included armrests on the rear seats, new door armrests and a revised dash layout.

Powertrain and Identification Information.

• VIN 10th Digit designating year = "1"
• Engine: 6.5L Turbo Diesel 195 H.P. 430 lb. ft. VIN 4th digit ="Z" or
  • "F" designating General Engine Products as the manufacturer (later production).
• 4L80E Electronic 4 speed Automatic Transmission. VIN 5th digit ="A"
• Top Speed 83+ mph.
• 869 '01 models built.

Significant changes for 2001.

• Heavy duty Idler and Pitman Arms.
• New Tan Seat fabric.
• New Seals in Geared Hubs.
• New Door Armrests.
• New Beltline Window seals.
• New Seat Pedestals.
• New Engine Assembly Manufactured by General Engine Products LLC.
• Monsoon stereo with overhead speakers now available in Open Top models.
• Optional 17" Alloy wheels available.
• 16.5" Alloy wheel discontinued.
• Armrests added to the rear seats for increased passenger comfort.
• New larger heated power mirrors with convex insert available.
• Dash layout enhanced for better visibility of gauges.
• New Color: Ocean Blue Metallic.
• W8 "Gloss White" Discontinued.
• November 2001 Introduction of the "K" Series for fleet and government applications.

Ocean Blue. New Color for '01.Pewter Metallic.
Competition Yellow. Candy Apple Red.
Black. (B9)Bright White. (W14)
Woodland Green. ('00 shown)Silver Metallic. (S15) ('00 with '01 wheels shown)
Mesa Dusk. ('99 shown)

[Sno Ops]

Thanks for all the info. I am not sure on the Vin number but will check. I would need to tow about 700 miles in on day. So if there not comfortable towing then I will just use it in the Spring and Summer. Thanks.

[Sno Ops]

Heres the Vin: 137ZA843X1E19XXXX. She does have the bad block in her. I think I will hold out for an 2003 H1 instead. Seems like thats the one that I really want anyway with the E lockers! Thanks for your help.

[BACKNBLACK]

if you pm me the vin I will run a AUTOCHECK for you and send you the results.


-Peter

[phazer42]

Originally Posted by BACKNBLACK

Keep in mind the 2001 has the following issues.

1- Power Door Lockouts (Fixed in 2003)
2- Exterior Marker lamps are stil recessed into the body (Fixed in 2002)
3- Wheels were 16.5 anf 17" 2 Piece Star Rims. (Later 2002's had the 2 PC Forged Beadlock Runflats Rims)
4- The Lockers are the Same 2001-2002 Detroit Mechanical Locker (2003 Eaton Electronic Loacker Takes Over :-))
5- 2001 have the 8 cyl block crack issue check the vin number to verify if it was part of the build issues 137ZA is bad :-)
6- Make sure the Geared hub seals have been changed if over 20K and the brakes are fresh (Expensive job)
7- Make sure you do not have any HVAC issues with the 2001-2002 they still had issues until 2003 (Updated GM Components in 2003)
8- Lastly where I got burned on my H1 was the pwer steering box. It leaks (by design I think :-0) but only needed a clamp replacment. make sure if it leaks you check the clamp.

Anything else you want to know please feel free to ask. If i was going to get another H1 I would not get anything besides the 03 it was the H1's best year mechanically. Those words are right out of a Hummer H1 builders mouth)

-Peter

Where are you getting all of this info???????

I own a 2001 Open top... I don't believe your post is entirely factual.... never heard of any such power door lock issue,

there isn't anything wrong with the marker lights outboard rather then flush, the LED is nice but both are functional just the same,

2 pc wheels were not offered in 2001, the 17" 2 pc wheels were offered in 2002 for the first time,

the only locker ever offered to a Hummer prior to 2003 was the detroit mechanical locker which I haven't heard of any 2001's having, but the bias ratio in the torsens is different between '01 and '02 but the same '01-'03

the engines in the 2001 are said to be corrected and I haven't heard of any '01s who have had the crack... even with Z engine codes....

mileage is not what intervals seals should be changed at....

the HVAC is the same from 2001-2003 with the only change being the HVAC ducts, the main upgrade was in '97....

please see this link for factual information

to answer the first question.... I tow a 32' travel trailer which, when loaded, weights 10k lbs. Your definatly going to know its back there, but it tows it just fine. I don't travel over 55mph when towing that load though as the temp starts to raise...

[lvs]

An '03 will only get you a rear locker, unless the owner paid to put a front in. '04 is the first year for both front and rear lockers.

[BigKofJustice]

Originally Posted by KenP

Just because it CAN tow that much, doesn't mean it'd be an easy drive pulling it.

Older H1's can pull 10K depending on hitch setup. The Optimiser and Alpha can pull much more.

I towed wrecked cars with no wheels on the trail, during cleanup with nothing but a tow strap and I didn't feel a thing. The turbodiesel H1's have a lot of torque.

[BigKofJustice]

Originally Posted by BACKNBLACK

Keep in mind the 2001 has the following issues.

1- Power Door Lockouts (Fixed in 2003)
2- Exterior Marker lamps are stil recessed into the body (Fixed in 2002)
3- Wheels were 16.5 anf 17" 2 Piece Star Rims. (Later 2002's had the 2 PC Forged Beadlock Runflats Rims)
4- The Lockers are the Same 2001-2002 Detroit Mechanical Locker (2003 Eaton Electronic Loacker Takes Over :-))
5- 2001 have the 8 cyl block crack issue check the vin number to verify if it was part of the build issues 137ZA is bad :-)
6- Make sure the Geared hub seals have been changed if over 20K and the brakes are fresh (Expensive job)
7- Make sure you do not have any HVAC issues with the 2001-2002 they still had issues until 2003 (Updated GM Components in 2003)
8- Lastly where I got burned on my H1 was the pwer steering box. It leaks (by design I think :-0) but only needed a clamp replacment. make sure if it leaks you check the clamp.

If its a high mileage Z block you're likely to be ok. The #8 failure rate is about 25% I heard from an off the record source, most in the first 30,000 miles.

The rest is non issues [Recessed lights? That's an Issue? Really?].

If you want a truck with lockers, get a pre 99 truck that has the engine already replaced and installed whatever locker combination you want. The ABS/TT4 system is garbage.

If you want to get a nicer rig out of the box, get an used 04, those are the best rigs unless you want a to drop 100-115K for a used Alpha.

Most of the enhancements on the H1 in regards to HVAC and drive train tweaks was rolled in halfway through the 1997 production run. So anything 1997.5 or higher with a service history and a replaced engine would be ideal.

[pdxhummerguy]

If you are interested check out my 02 I am looking to sell on the post 2002 thinking of selling.

Bryan

[JustinOK]

Just because you have a "Z" engine, it doesn't mean it wasn't replaced. Call Lynch HUMMER. They can tell you if the engine was possibly replaced.

[Alan06SUT]

Don't get afraid of a 2001 model year, most all of the issues were worked out in the mid 90's. A 2001 is nearly identical to a 2003 for a good bit less $$$. Lockers cost $1500 installed each ( if you really want them). Many say the best year for offroading is the 1997.5 it has no TT4, 6.5TD, updated air, Torsen I diffs that are easier to BTM than the Torsen II that came with the TT4 trucks. But, after wheeling with all years, they all are simply amazing and very similar in capability regardless of if it came with lockers, torsen II, etc. I like the 99-01 years right now because you can find one for a steal and I bet they have hit bottom as far as depreciation.

[NoMoGMPG]

Hmm, I have 100k with the "Z" VIN code. No issues.

I would not tow with the H1 unless it was flat, since its GVW is 10,300 and my wagon is a tick under 8k already. The brakes are not really meant for stopping more than that. You can do it, but there are better options.

TT4/ABS, when operating properly, is good for about 95% of offroading, and great for on highway. Anything over a 4+ trail, lockers are the ticket. I've been on nearly every trail in Moab, save Pritchet Canyon, using just TT4, and it can be done just very difficult. Lockers made them easy.

Geared hubs seals need replacing at 20k intervals? Huh?

Brakes expensive? Huh?

Power steering box clamp? leaks? Huh?

Steering components, definately! Idler, pitman, even ball joints.

[BigKofJustice]

Originally Posted by NoMoGMPG

Lockers made them easy.

Geared hubs seals need replacing at 20k intervals? Huh?

Brakes expensive? Huh?

Power steering box clamp? leaks? Huh?

Steering components, definately! Idler, pitman, even ball joints.

If I had a TT4 truck the very first thing I'd buy for it is lockers, I just don't like trusting the computer tto decide when it should activate or not. I've seen TT4 trucks get damaged more because you had to goose the gas more often when you are on tough rocks or in tight spaces before the TT4 decides to engage. BTM isn't as good as an option as it is on the 92-98 trucks because they changed the bias ratio on the diffs on the TT4 trucks [although the ones with the Eatons are different I believe].

Yeah but with the rest I agree, not expensive. My Geared hub seals were fine at 80,000 miles, it's about 40$ in seals and about 2 hours of work to replace my seals on a hub, less then that if its just a spindle seal.

Brakes are super cheap, only thing thats the pain is the rear calipers, the newer trucks from AM General [HMMWV] have a new Caliper design with quick release tabs for the pads, you can do a brake job in the field in 10 minutes according to AMG.

Leaks are cheap to fix, just carry silicon tape and a bunch of hose clamps.

Steering parts you can get in a kit for a few hundred .

If you use it as its meant to be used, then you'll have to replace parts, thats normal wear and tear. If you just want to street queen an H1 most of the components will last a long time with proper maintenance.

Unfortunately many trucks aren't properly maintained. I brought my truck from a guy who had a few, and knew them well so I know my truck was properly maintained for years.

[Little General]

Bought my H1 from an auto dealer that got it from Fla. Car Fax showed it had been to Dew Hummer every 3000 miles. It had 46,000 miles and yes it had an oil change every 3000 miles but never any other fluids were ever changed. It did have new brakes and new GSA tires ( wth run flats ) but still needed some work. Bought all syn oil and did all fluids on a Saturday Morn by myself learning as I went. I spent probably $700 to fix everything and have enjoyed a year of no problems. I love my 2001. The first thing I would do is gut the cat and put on an exhaust with no muffler. Sounds great with the turbo whistle and seems to get up and go better. With the economy the way it is there should be some killer deals on very good H1 s . If I were buying , I would buhy from a Hummer Club member or one of the guys off this or Hummer network site. We keep our trucks in good cond and if we sell, we want them in good homes.