2003 H2 Hummer, Yellow,Polished Whipple Supercharged, Dynatech long tube headers, catback,18\" Ambush w/Toyo MT\'s,lots of goodies!
Y2K Corvette Millennium Yellow Convert/Blk/Blk, B&B headers, B&B Tri-Flo\'s, H-Tech MAG,GMS MAF, RM Racing TwinFlow.
1994 Chev Suburban Blown
1970 Trans Am balanced, blueprinted, ceramic headers, etc.
1.) Agree 100% with the bolt torque comments. On a previous vehicle, after having the tires balanced and rotated, I got a flat about a week later. Thankfully I was in my driveway because the 18 year flunkie had tightened the bolts so much that my breaker bar was useless. Over 200 ft pounds of impact wrench later, I got them off.
2.) I have also found that after off-roading or driving in really dusty conditions, on occasion I have had to jack the rig up, take off the tire, and then spray some disc break cleaner on the rotor and near the pad. It doesn't happen often, but when I notice a squeak, I do this and it goes away. And it is always the front wheels for some reason.
This usually involves making 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop. When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete. The brake pad OEM may have specific instructions for doing this.
Failure to bed in your pads may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film.
Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors.
You cut and paste so well.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
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