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Go Back   Hummer Forums by Elcova > Hummer H2 Discussion Forums > General H2 Discussion

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  #1  
Old 06-06-2005, 11:52 PM
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I'm going to have PC's and allot of other electrical stuff running and I have been thinking about dual battery setup. I will have front and rear light bars on sometimes. What optima would You recommend and what kind of setup for the dual batteries. I'm not sure if i will need to isolate the batt for PC stuff from surges. I would appreciate advice on how to set this kind of dual battery system up and parts needed to make it work so I can begin collecting them up. I do not want to use one of those big boat batt selectors like I have on the cruiser but, I figured someone knew of something simular that would be remotely operated to chose either batt or both so i could charge both while running or use one for start and isolate the electronic batt from charge while starting and then bring it online.
Thanks
TAZ
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05 H2 SUV cus. paint, Magnuson SC 6/12lb boost, cowl hood scoop, 12" dash touchscreen, GM elec. fans, HPTuners.com tuning soft., Dynatech headers dual catback exhaust Jet Hot chrome front to back Flowmaster Super 40's, Diamo 8 Karat rims & 325X60-20" Toyo, 4 OEM Captain seats Katzkins leather, rear console computer inside running all AV/NAV etc., Infinity component system 3 amps Tsunami Caps, rear flip down 12" monitor, headrest monitors, overhead console boost, fuel pressure, & A/F ratio gauges
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  #2  
Old 06-06-2005, 11:52 PM
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I'm going to have PC's and allot of other electrical stuff running and I have been thinking about dual battery setup. I will have front and rear light bars on sometimes. What optima would You recommend and what kind of setup for the dual batteries. I'm not sure if i will need to isolate the batt for PC stuff from surges. I would appreciate advice on how to set this kind of dual battery system up and parts needed to make it work so I can begin collecting them up. I do not want to use one of those big boat batt selectors like I have on the cruiser but, I figured someone knew of something simular that would be remotely operated to chose either batt or both so i could charge both while running or use one for start and isolate the electronic batt from charge while starting and then bring it online.
Thanks
TAZ
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05 H2 SUV cus. paint, Magnuson SC 6/12lb boost, cowl hood scoop, 12" dash touchscreen, GM elec. fans, HPTuners.com tuning soft., Dynatech headers dual catback exhaust Jet Hot chrome front to back Flowmaster Super 40's, Diamo 8 Karat rims & 325X60-20" Toyo, 4 OEM Captain seats Katzkins leather, rear console computer inside running all AV/NAV etc., Infinity component system 3 amps Tsunami Caps, rear flip down 12" monitor, headrest monitors, overhead console boost, fuel pressure, & A/F ratio gauges
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  #3  
Old 06-07-2005, 12:50 AM
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You can simply wire 2 Optima Red Tops together & be done with it. No isolator would be required & they would have sufficient capacity for your needs. This would be a simple set up requiring only the cables to hook the 2 in a parallel configuration.
Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 06-07-2005, 12:56 AM
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Thanks I was thinking of 2 red top D34/78 batteries. Does that sound about right.
TAZ
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05 H2 SUV cus. paint, Magnuson SC 6/12lb boost, cowl hood scoop, 12" dash touchscreen, GM elec. fans, HPTuners.com tuning soft., Dynatech headers dual catback exhaust Jet Hot chrome front to back Flowmaster Super 40's, Diamo 8 Karat rims & 325X60-20" Toyo, 4 OEM Captain seats Katzkins leather, rear console computer inside running all AV/NAV etc., Infinity component system 3 amps Tsunami Caps, rear flip down 12" monitor, headrest monitors, overhead console boost, fuel pressure, & A/F ratio gauges
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  #5  
Old 06-07-2005, 09:18 AM
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Nope! Taz, for running accessory loads with the motor off, you definiely want the yellow top. Though slightly costlier than the red top, the yellow top is a deep cycle battery, designed to be run down and recharged repeatedly.

There are severl good isolators on the market. There is one coming out soon with extremely low draw, but it is a month or 2 away from release. For now, any battery management system, for example http://www.hellroaring.com/rv.htm
will work for your purposes. I have used yellow tops in the most extreme environments and run them to "dead" status many times. They have always charged right back up and operated like new and still always supplied more than enough cold craning amps to get me going.
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  #6  
Old 06-07-2005, 02:50 PM
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Yellow top Group 31's for sure IMHO. They also make good start batteries. But Tower's right. Bought them online with tax and shipping for almost US$200 apiece. But trouble free and withstand a lot of violent shaking better than any typical plate batt.

Use them on my Class A for both coach and engine batteries, and will retrofit by boat's two with them soon. Won't hesitate to add them to the H2.

Optimaugs
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  #7  
Old 06-07-2005, 06:18 PM
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Thanks guys. Because of a particular setup in bay area with a custom battery box, We have been looking at D34/78 batt. We have no choice but to put them in factory location because of the custom cold air intake We built that takes up the fender spot where factory intake box sat. We built a custom intake leading into supercharger so no room to do a split battery setup. Would these work knowing the CCA is a little below factory? Just leave isolator out and just tie them in parrallel. We would be able to use top post to tie them together and still have the side post on one to connect to factory cables.
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  #8  
Old 06-07-2005, 09:10 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RLTAZH2:
Thanks I was thinking of 2 red top D34/78 batteries. Does that sound about right.
TAZ </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That's exactly what I'd go for. If you plan on running the accessories for extended lengths with the engine off & may on occasion run the batteries down very low Yellow Tops would be perfect. On the other hand if you are looking for additional capacity for stabilizing voltage while the engine's running I'd go with the Red Tops. Either choice will accomplish the task, good luck.
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  #9  
Old 06-08-2005, 12:32 AM
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With the PC and some other electronics We plan to have surge protector and a way to stabilize the voltage. They will all be 12V so no converter needed. I'm still just concerned a little about voltage fluctuation just as You see the charge needle move with engine RPM's.
Does the battery itself tend to stabilise the voltage that is used by the electronics even the factory stuff?
I appreciate everyone getting in here and helping Me. Please continue to add info as You think of it or PM Me if You like. But, here it is at least recorded for future reference by others so get Me the info anyway You choose.
Any info to help in making the power use safer for the equip. is greatly appreciated. Please anyone get in here and help Me. I just worry about blowing something up that We have put allot of work in. The young man that is helping Me is truly a audio/video genius but, We have been building equipment and not discussed the voltage stabilazation yet. As We are approaching the home stretch it is something that I just began to consider today and always the forum gets ramped up quick to help. The info You are giving is making me more comfortable with the unknown as far as I'm concerned.
I did not relise it but the 34/78 is a red top and the D34/78 is yellow top so I'm thinking the yellow is what We were looking at. They do not have the CCA that the 31T or A has and that it what I was wondering if that could be a problem.
I talked to the Young guy and He said He thinks We may be able to fit 2 31T or A what ever the difference is maybe someone knows. so We will look at that i guess.
I would never have guessed that it could be so many choices as to batteries for particular purposes. I'm glad I got people I can ask this kind of stuff bugs Me.
Thanks
TAZ
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05 H2 SUV cus. paint, Magnuson SC 6/12lb boost, cowl hood scoop, 12" dash touchscreen, GM elec. fans, HPTuners.com tuning soft., Dynatech headers dual catback exhaust Jet Hot chrome front to back Flowmaster Super 40's, Diamo 8 Karat rims & 325X60-20" Toyo, 4 OEM Captain seats Katzkins leather, rear console computer inside running all AV/NAV etc., Infinity component system 3 amps Tsunami Caps, rear flip down 12" monitor, headrest monitors, overhead console boost, fuel pressure, & A/F ratio gauges
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