Has anyone ever removed the front drive shaft, locked the transfer case into 4 Hi lock and driven for any great distance. I've done it on a constant 4WD Landrover defender in the past, but that has a bolt on flange both ends of the front drive shaft, so one doesn't need to worry about the oil coming out. I'm wondering if I could drive it if I were to just unbolt the front of the drive shaft at the diff, remove the back uni and leave the yoke in the transfer case.
Any thoughts before I rip it to bits.
I've got an issue in the transfer case in that I get an abnormal amount of windup when doing sharp turns on pavement. I think I cooked it on my last trip when towing the van through rough terrain.
I towed the van 1900Km home with it in this condition and had no issues whilst on paved roads. I have to head back to work and don't have time to strip and look at it.
Would anyone know where I could pick up a used unit (transfer case) in the US and what a rough price would be.
Thanks,
Al
So, I got my bro to tow me back to the shed and reinstalled the drive shaft, I'm now back to square 1, wind up in what the buttons say is 4H, no other buttons are illuminated.
One question, should I get a clunk when shifting from 4H Locked to 4H. I don't get anything at the moment.
Any ideas??? Thanks.
I put the drive shaft back on and off I went, but, I got the windup again, so then jacked both rear wheels off the ground, dropped it into D and sure enough, it tries to drive off the jacks. I changed between 4H and 4H locked, same same, I then dropped it into 4L Locked and back into 4h, all whille the wheels were off the ground. When I dropped it from 4L to 4H it was fine. The back wheels spun happily with out the vehicle going anywhere, all good. I dropped it back on the ground and on my first turn I got windup. I'm certain there is a problem with the lockup fork in the transfer case.
I can't work out which wires give it it's signal to actuate, any one know?
Cheers,
Al
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