Warm "No Start" issue.

[Markee]

I have a 1997 H1 6.5 turbo. If I drive it for 30 to 45 minutes or more. shut it off. then go to start it within the next 15 to 30 minutes it just will not start. In fact it will not even try to turn over the engine. The wait light comes on for the glow plugs like normal. After that turning the key further produces nothing.

The car has been checked at 2 different Hummer dealerships for this issue. but they have not been able to reproduce the issue. I can however reproduce it most any time I want to.

There was another thread here where it was talked about that it could be an alarm wiring issue. We had all of the wiring associated with the alarm redone a few weeks ago. We even replaced the alarm.

I'm pretty sure this is a heat related electrical problem. We just have not been able to find it.

BTW: hmcoleap. I liked your ANSI Hummer. So I edited it to match my car.

[ssgharkness020147]

Are you saying that it will not even crank when you turn the key? If not when this happens the first thing I would try is to push the gear selector up and to the left while you turn the key. If it starts then your neutral safety switch is shot. If it cranks but will not fire up pour water over the PMD located on the side of the injector pump, which is in the engine valley. If it starts then the PMD itself is shot.

[Markee]

ssgharkness020147, I'll try botrh of those suggestions and let you know.

Thanks.

[Planohummer]

based on description, sounds like starter heat soak. Have the amperage draw of the starter checked when hot

[hmcoleap]

First, I am flattered that you were able to stretch my ASCII Hummer!

Second, I agree with ssgharkness020147 -- PMD/FSB is at the top of my suspect list for your symptoms. Did you try the "dump water" trick yet?

[Markee]

Originally Posted by hmcoleap

First, I am flattered that you were able to stretch my ASCII Hummer!

Second, I agree with ssgharkness020147 -- PMD/FSB is at the top of my suspect list for your symptoms. Did you try the "dump water" trick yet?

I'm glad you were not offended that I used it and stretched it. i was actually a little worried about that because I'm sure it took you a lot of time to create in the first place.

As for trying things yet. Sad story. I broke down in Sacramento 5 weeks ago on my way to Portland. We lost the transfer case and the transmission was very near end of life. It's at the Hummer of Sacramento dealership. I told them to go ahead and replace the transmission as well. What I didn't know was that the military has a high demand for these transmissions. So mine is on back order. 5 weeks later I'm hoping to get it back soon.

[ssgharkness020147]

Are you still using the 4L80-E? If so the dealer is feeding you a bunch of bull sh!t. That is not a hard tranny to find. Did you modify it at all? If not do it. The 4L80-E is a good trans, but can be built to be BULLET PROOF. Due to your application I would reccomend having a tranny built rather then an out of the box trans. Your truck weighs alot more, and the trans is working alot harder to move it around. A built tranny would be much better suited for you and will last alot longer.

Manny,
Do you remember the name of the company that was talked about over on the HML a year or two ago that was out of Cali that built those bad ass 4L80-E's. I know that could be built to handle something like 800 HP and over 1500 FT/LB's?

Originally Posted by Markee

As for trying things yet. What I didn't know was that the military has a high demand for these transmissions. So mine is on back order. 5 weeks later I'm hoping to get it back soon.

[Markee]

I've found that it has been difficult to manage these repairs from so far away. Normally if I had it here in town I would just go bitch in person to keep things moving along. After your comments about the transmission I called the dealership to discuss other options. Apparently the new transmission is in transit right now and will be arriving next week. So I decided to not even bring it up. the whole thing has been torturous so far and I didn't want to add to that.

I would be interested to learn about this other transmission option though. I have it in my plans to buy another H! that is a slantback and get it stretched by 200". So I may run into the same issues with that.

[hmcoleap]

I think the conversations surrounding the upgraded 4L80E's may have centered around a company called "JET" ? Not positive... I know that those are the guys I talked to when I was weighing my transmission replacement options a few years ago.

I actually had some lengthy discussions with some transmission experts a few years ago when I replaced mine that made me decide to go with a stock replacement instead - not for financial reasons, but because they convinced me that the standard version was better... some interesting differences in opinions out there about "hardened" gears that are rated for higher HP breaking sooner vs. softer metal that gives a little, etc.

[hmcoleap]

Originally Posted by Markee

I.... I have it in my plans to buy another H! that is a slantback and get it stretched by 200". So I may run into the same issues with that.

If it is a real 2000 factory slantback, don't cut it - there were less than 40 of those made!

[smitham]

If you are looking for more info on the 4L80E trans go to LS1Tech.com and look around there. There are guys using them in camaros that make over 1000hp. They are GM 4 speed computer controled version of the Turbo 400. They have a lot of people building them.

[DRTYFN]

Originally Posted by Planohummer

based on description, sounds like starter heat soak. Have the amperage draw of the starter checked when hot

X2 Check the starter.

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Originally Posted by hmcoleap

If it is a real 2000 factory slantback, don't cut it - there were less than 40 of those made!

I agree!

[Carbine]

Might want to make sure that you have a solid corrosion free connection from the block to the ground. Sounds like it. Take off your passenger seat and take a look at the batteries and make sure that the connections are clean and tight. Right next to the batteries should be a shunt, if they are anything like the Military ones that shunt should be corrosion free as well.
Think of it like this. Turn on a flashlight and now turn it off. You have power going to the flashlight but no ground, so likewise before you snap diagnose check all of those connections. Bad connections make for a weaker starter. Check Voltage drop. You can check the voltage drop from the battery to the starter and droppage tells you either a corroded cable or bad terminal connections along that starter wire.

[HUMTECH]

Agreed, bad grounds can cause many gremlins. One fix I have done to many H-1's is to run A new ground wire from G-1 to G-4. G-1 is your underhood ground bus and G-4 is your under dash ground bus. Simply drill A hole under hood by your hood lock cable and run A new ground wire from the under hood ground bus to the under dash bus, located on the left side just above your kick panel. Just from experience fixed many "strange" electrical problems by adding the extra ground. Also make sure to fill the hole drilled with silicone when done or you end up with A water leak above your fuse panel, not good.