Info on the beat years for H1

[AbadR1]

Hello all! I am in the market for a H1 now and I am wanting to get up to $55,000 if I need to. Only question is after careful researching I found out the older H1 have a weak block and tend to crack. I am assuming it could come from the over heating issues on these 6.5 turbo diesel.

What year is the best year for H1 and how can you tell if someone is selling a older H1 that may have issues or on it's way out. I am interested in this beautiful 1998 H1 and the price is right. Any suggestion is welcome and also any other major issues I need to look out for.

[audiofetish]

Checkout http://www.usedh1.com/ . Blair always has great H1s for sale and he knows them inside and out. I just purchased a pewter 2001 HMCO from him about a month ago. If you give him a call he will let you know what you need to look out for.

BTW.... a 98 is one of the years that had the bad blocks.

[pdxhummerguy]

My understanding is anything 2001 or newer should be pretty good. As with any of them make sure that a thorough inspection is done prior to purchase. Pay particular attention to the CTIS system as well as the onboard braking system. They are great rigs!

[JustinOK]

Bad blocks can be in any turbo diesel from 1996 - 2001. If the 4th digit in the VIN is a Z, it means it was produced with a potentially flawed engine. If the 4th digit is an F, that is the newer block and you'll be fine. If the engine was replaced, obviously the VIN will not have been updated, so check the history of the vehicle. You may have to call AM General to find out. Lynch HUMMER can help you out with that as well.

The highest percentage of bad blocks seem to be in 1997 and 1998 models. Most of the engines that needed to be replaced had the engines replaced prior to reaching 30,000 miles. I do think I heard about one that had to be replaced in the 9X,000 range.

If you find a 1998 and it has a replaced engine, then you'll almost definitely be good to go.

Some people don't like the addition of ABS to the HUMMER line, and any HUMMER made 1999 or later will have ABS on board. The addition of lockers can help you out off-road, but those do cost money if not already installed.

Another key feature to look for is the 1997.5 upgraded HVAC. The HVAC system was updated halfway through the 1997 year, depending on where you live this could be important.

I love having windshield heat on my front windshields. I don't believe this was available until 1997, but in 1997 it was probably only an option, and not standard. I think even in 1998 it was also an option, I don't recall what year it became standard.

1996 is when a 2nd fuel tank was added, bringing the total capacity to 42 gallons (slightly less if you buy a 1996 gasser).

Check out Lynch HUMMER's website and read up on the H1 model year changes.

http://www.lynchhummer.com/changes/h...ges.index.html

[AbadR1]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. So if most block code name "z" will crack mostly before 30k? So if the H1 is more than 30k, does it mean it has been either replaced or just lucky it has not been cracked?

[JustinOK]

Originally Posted by AbadR1

Thanks for the suggestions guys. So if most block code name "z" will crack mostly before 30k? So if the H1 is more than 30k, does it mean it has been either replaced or just lucky it has not been cracked?

It doesn't mean it will crack. Just saying that it can crack.

The worst years were basically 1997 and 1998. During 97/98 about 1/3 were affected.

Each engine does have a casting number, if you read up on Chuck's site he'll have listed the old casting numbers and new numbers.

http://www.flashoffroad.com/Diesel/N...ackedBlock.htm

30k is not the end-all number, merely a guide. I'm sure there were more than a few that cracked above 30k, but it seems that most that cracked, cracked with less than 30k.

If the VIN has a Z as the 4th character, you may have a flawed engine. The updated blocks with F as the 4th character came out in late 2001.

6.5L N/A engines didn't seem to have this problem, those have a Y as the 4th digit of their VIN.