Anyone tried this?

[jmsspratlin]

I was thinking of removing the front and rear bumper, the side running board plastics, and the hood plastic piece, and having all of it line-Xed and a finish coat applied for overall protection. The reason being is that I'm sick of applying TS-1 or any kind of plasict protection when I clean the truck. Also, seems like it would be a good investment as well overall. Just wanted to see if anyone on hear has ever done it or thought of it. Thanks.....Jamie

[Boss Hoss]

Im wondering if that would fade as well?

[lonePalm]

I dont know Jamie but if you do please post pics, I would love to see that!

[jmsspratlin]

Originally Posted by Boss Hoss

Im wondering if that would fade as well?

I'm thinking that with a protective clear coat, it would not. I'll check with the Line-X guys and see whats available as well as a price.

[TXSUT]

Jamie, if you search around here a bit, there's at least one thread relative to Line-Xing the front grill that goes into concerns about the product's adherence to plastic. With the grill, they spray it completely to "encase" the grill with Line-X to reduce the risk of separation. If you could get them to do the same to the parts you're talking about, I imagine you might run into some re-fitment issues for those pieces that fit flush against the body panels. Another you *might* consider is that Line-X will not warranty the product on plastic. Lastly, you'd want to be certain that there is indeed a clearcoat product compatible with Line-X (I'm betting there isn't).

-Pete

[TXSUT]

...and....why not just skip the Line-X and clearcoat the plastic?

[jmsspratlin]

Originally Posted by TXSUT

...and....why not just skip the Line-X and clear-coat the plastic?

I did think about that, however was unsure on how it would hold the unfaded color. Not sure if the whole thing would have to be painted then cleared. Good suggestion though, also makes sense about the adherence of the Line-X to the plastic. I was thinking of some how light sand blasting to rough the surface or a little heat (would probably screw the form up though and never look or fit right). Thanks Pete.....Jamie

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Jamie there many options. Orange or another painter could give better advice but, you can buy finish quality rattle can paint and clear. Go by a paint shop price you dropping parts off with pricing on what you want done.

If you just want Line X look at other brands as Rhino and even some other. I'm very sure it will be very hard to do the Line X type without encasing the plastic if that would do any good.

I know there has been many threads on here about using Line X type stuff, be sure and search. I know a few have knowledge on this.

TAZ

[Humdingah]

I used the bed coating in a 'rattle can' for the bottoms of my QPP flares...did it to prevent any paint chips from rocks on the underside since they were painted all around. It's be over a year and it's held up fine...

Two or three cans should be more than enough to put a coat or two on all of the flares and in the event you need to recoat a section you could just buy another can and respray it. Much cheaper than Line-X and, as long as the flares are free of silicone and wax, the 'Line-X in a can' should have a decent surface to bond to.

Worth a try...

[jmsspratlin]

Originally Posted by Humdingah

I used the bed coating in a 'rattle can' for the bottoms of my QPP flares...did it to prevent any paint chips from rocks on the underside since they were painted all around. It's be over a year and it's held up fine...

Two or three cans should be more than enough to put a coat or two on all of the flares and in the event you need to recoat a section you could just buy another can and respray it. Much cheaper than Line-X and, as long as the flares are free of silicone and wax, the 'Line-X in a can' should have a decent surface to bond to.

Worth a try...

Does sound more cost effective, however I want a permanent fix for it and not one that there may be a "possibility" that I have to re-coat in a few months or even in a year. To totally encase the front, rear, and side trimmings, I was quoted at $980 if I bring the parts in and prep. However, after reading your response, I am considering spraying the belly of the beast, for mainly protection. Thanks again.......Jamie

[Humdingah]

$980 vs. $20???

I will tell you that the undersides of my flares have held up fine to about 18,000 miles and I've got Mud Grapplers, which tend to throw all kinds of crap off them. I only sprayed mine with two coats so it's about 1/2 as thick as a Line-X job. I had Line-X test spray a flare when I had my side steps done and it was a coating about 1/8" thick. I think if they 'wrapped' them with Line-X to prevent peeling you'd have issues getting them back on the truck using the original mounting holes.

[jmsspratlin]

Originally Posted by Humdingah

$980 vs. $20???

I will tell you that the undersides of my flares have held up fine to about 18,000 miles and I've got Mud Grapplers, which tend to throw all kinds of crap off them. I only sprayed mine with two coats so it's about 1/2 as thick as a Line-X job. I had Line-X test spray a flare when I had my side steps done and it was a coating about 1/8" thick. I think if they 'wrapped' them with Line-X to prevent peeling you'd have issues getting them back on the truck using the original mounting holes.

Now thats something I didn't consider...thanks

[TXSUT]

Originally Posted by jmsspratlin

Now thats something I didn't consider...thanks

Hey Dikkhead, did you not read my post?

Originally Posted by TXSUT

With the grill, they spray it completely to "encase" the grill with Line-X to reduce the risk of separation. If you could get them to do the same to the parts you're talking about, I imagine you might run into some re-fitment issues for those pieces that fit flush against the body panels.

[Mark805]

When I had my H3 I did the front grill and hood grill in Line-X. The entire grill was encased in Line-X except the screw holes and little bracket holders.

Everything fit without a hitch. Personally I'd like to dip my whole car in Line-X

[Boss Hoss]

Originally Posted by TXSUT

Hey Dikkhead, did you not read my post?

Hey buddy before you go off being nasty you need to learn how to spell!

[TXSUT]

Originally Posted by Boss Hoss

Hey buddy before you go off being nasty you need to learn how to spell!

I didn't no if the "curse word-erator" wood catch it, so teh mispeeling was intenshunal.

[jmsspratlin]

Originally Posted by TXSUT

Hey Dikkhead, did you not read my post?

I try to avoid them

[Rico001]

Is X lined a simular product to Rhino Lining and other bed liner
spray on products.
If so I know when we were on the Avalanche list several members
there had their trucks done with spray on bed liner material and had
great sucess with it. We had considered it and was going to do a trade
fro the process on the Avalanche but we have since traded it for the H2
let us all know how it goes.

BTW does anyone here know if GM is doing the free Gatorback process
on the H2?
I know they will put it on the Avalanche and I was thinking the "plastic"
looks to be the same type.
~Rich

[mikejr]

Originally Posted by Rico001

Is X lined a simular product to Rhino Lining and other bed liner
spray on products.
If so I know when we were on the Avalanche list several members
there had their trucks done with spray on bed liner material and had
great sucess with it. We had considered it and was going to do a trade
fro the process on the Avalanche but we have since traded it for the H2
let us all know how it goes.

BTW does anyone here know if GM is doing the free Gatorback process
on the H2?
I know they will put it on the Avalanche and I was thinking the "plastic"
looks to be the same type.
~Rich

I traded my Avalanche in on a H2 too also some time ago. I had an 03 with the cladding on it and an 04 without the cladding...traded the 04 on an 06 H2.....seemed like the plastic on the 04 faded alot quicker on the sail panels and bed cover, it was almost a light grey.