2008 DRL Mod Request

[The Ledge]

My 2005 lease expired and just re-upped with a 2008 All Terrain Blue this evening. Classy color I must say. The new interior which I have is Ebony is gorgeous. Anyways, went to do the diode mod for the day running lights jumping with the low beams and was surprised with a new fuse box scheme that totally faked me out. Has anybody completed this revised mod on a 2008 yet? If not, will take a picture of the fuse box open with the diagram scheme as well in the morning and maybe somebody could contribute and figure out what the new mod for me would be? Thanks in advance.

[The Ledge]

Here is the link to this wonderful original mod from NSXTC and also the mod from Mango with the diode on the low beams. http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...hlight=drl+mod


Here is a 2005 box with the mod with the diode jump with the drl and low beam.




Below is the picture of the 2008 scheme



And the 2008 box



Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[timgco]

Oh hell! It would have to be different. Back to the drawing board.

[tower]

THE DRAWING BOARD
You need to run a jumper or diode from the parking lamp relay (test for a contact that becomes hot when the park lams switch is turned on) to the DRL relay (if you can find it) or to the fuse (see photo). Make sure that you go to the hot side of the fuse (the side which tests hot when the DRLs would normally be on). To find the DRL relay, you must listen for a click near the electrical panel when the conditions for the DRL change betweeen on and off (e.g. key in the on position, switch between PARK and DRIVE. Do this on level ground with wheels chocked if possible as setting parking break will lock DRL's on OFF condition. If you use a diode, place it so that current flows in the direction of the arrowheads on the drawn lines.

[tower]

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[timgco]

Originally Posted by tower

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NIce job.

[tower]

Thanks, Tim!

ADDENDUM:

If you use a diode, the side with the band sould be connected to whatever source feeds the DRL's, which is to say the non-banded side toward the DRL relay.

[The Ledge]

Thank you for the input Tower I really appreciate it. I will attempt this at first opportunity and post the results.

[tower]

You are quite welcome. I could have given more detail, but I have no access to '08 data (schematics) yet. Feel free to e-me with any difficulties. Always happy to help a fellow owner. Enjoy your '08. I think they are great!

[pteam]

Thanks tower I used your advice on my 08 and it worked. Thanks again.

[tower]

Originally Posted by pteam

Thanks tower I used your advice on my 08 and it worked. Thanks again.

Thanks for the update, P. I'm glad it worked.

[The Ledge]

Tower - Email sent!

[tower]

Originally Posted by The Ledge

Tower - Email sent!

The Ledge, 2 e-mails sent in reply!

[The Ledge]

Due to time contraints and a shorted relay, I finally got this to work with a simple jump but without a diode. Thanks again Ron and Pete for the feedback and references.

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Good job tower!!!

I missed this thread somehow and You got it. I enjoy helping Buds here also and glad You saw this. I have seen some threads lasting a day without advice lately and use to they would barely be sent into forum and answer would be there. What is up with that?

I do not help as much as I would like but, fighting my illness's and short trips to hospitals I get out of the loop some and takes me a bit to catch up.

I run my jumper without diode as i want all lights on outside turned on all the time rig is running as well as we like all lights on at shows.

TAZ

[Stainless]

What is the diode for and its purpose?

Pro's / Con's with or without?

Thanks,

SJK