Maintenance

[AC HUM1]

I have a 2002 H1 and decided to do my own maintenance to save some dough, so I ordered a service package of filters and crap from bluehummer.com.

Over the weekend I decided to change my oil and was going to do the fuel filter too but didn't when I ran into a problem. I used 2 gallons of Shell Rotella T 15w40 with a Wix oil filter which came with the service pack. After getting the oil done, I fired it up and it ran fine for just about a minute. Then I climbed out and it went dead. I figured it was the oil filter filling up, so I tried starting it back up and it wouldnt fire up. I checked the oil level and it is right at the "p" in the word operating range on the dipstick. Is that overfilled or is this normal? After a bit I started it back up and it went dead again, though the 3rd time I tried it, it ran fine. No matter what I do the oil level isn't falling between the operating range.

What should the oil pressure gauge be reading? I must have never paid it much attention as it seems to fluctuate alot, it seems to be staying right below half.

Any ideas if I overfilled this sucker and why the heck would it go dead like that?

[JustinOK]

No idea why it went dead... but I bet you definitely overfilled by at least half a quart.

The TDs use 7.5 quarts, not the full 8. Also, how long did you let it drain?

[Planohummer]

i think the '02 models still had an oil pressure switch that cut fuel if oil pressure dropped below 5 psi. Go with Justin's oil level and switch out the wix for an AC delco filter and see what happens. rule of thumb for oil pressure = 10 psi per 1000 engine rpm. the oil pressure gage should show about 1/2-3/4 when cold and 1/3-1/2 when warmed up.

[AC HUM1]

Thanks for the info I finally got around to it today. I got the AC delco filter and 2 more gallons of Shell Rotella T. Changed it out and let the oil drain out until it stopped completely this time.

I put roughly 7 quarts in to check it on the dipstick and finally topped the 1/2 quart off and it is staying right above middle in the cross hatched operating range section on the dipstick. I fired it up and it was running fine, so I decided to go ahead and change the fuel filter.

Drained the fuel out and stuck the filter in, it all went fine. It started right up after I got the fuel filter done, but now it is starting to go dead on me again. More so than last time. Doesn't seem to be any pattern to it, the motor is just shutting off? I think my batteries are getting a bit weak, the cranking had already been being a bit dull but still starts fine, could that be a reason it is not running right? Could there be air in the fuel lines? At idle the oil gauge is staying right at 1/4 to 1/2 all the way through until it shuts itself off. Any ideas?

I did pull the air filter out to check it, it was perfectly clean so I stuck it back in with no problems. Maybe I didn't get it in there right?

[ssgharkness020147]

Did you bleed the fuel system after you replaced the filter?

[AC HUM1]

Nah I didn't. I did try to twist the black plastic valve on top of the fuel filter but it didn't seem to budge. I just started it up straight away after doing the fuel filter and it ran ok for a few minutes. I checked for leaks and it seemed to all be in order. I shut it off and when I went to drive it around the block later it started going dead on me before it got out of the garage. Now it is just shutting off every few minutes for the most part.

Though, it was shutting off like this last weekend after I changed the oil only and I thought I had over filled the oil slightly. Nothing had changed prior to that, it always ran great.

[JustinOK]

Perhaps your PMD is acting up on you as well? PMDs can go bad as you are describing. When mine failed I had no previous warning, my truck wouldn't fire up one day. I had normal voltage, glow plugs cycles, lift pump worked, normal cranking speed, but no vroom! No engine codes and no bad fuses.

What city/state do you live in?

[AC HUM1]

Im near the Atlanta area in Georgia. Getting some white smoke when it turns over after it shuts itself off.

[audiofetish]

You really need to try to bleed the fuel line. Take the truck out in the driveway; twist the black plastic purge cap on top of the fuel filter until it?s loose. If you can't turn it go buy another filter. They are dirt cheap at Napa. Have someone turn the truck all the way to the on position but don?t start it. Wait until all the air has escaped and you are only getting diesel then twist the purge cap to close it. No tools are needed.

If it keeps stalling it very well could be your PMD as Justin stated. Always keep an extra PMD in the truck. They go out all the time. If your truck doesn't have the remote PMD on it I would suggest adding that. You can change a PMD in 5 minutes with the extra harness. http://pensacoladiesel.com/index.php...oduct_id=30100
sales the PMD for $163.00 and http://www.dieselcare.net/CHEVROLETPRODUCTS.html sales the PMD wire harness for $37.00

Hope this helps. I live out in Birmingham and have a couple buddies in Atlanta with H1s. Let me know if you need any help.

Thanks,
Brandon
alhog.com

[AC HUM1]

Hey guys thanks for all of the help and links. I will do that about the PMD to keep a spare with me. How hard would it be to mount that remote thing up? Seems like a good bit to it. Going to have to get some new batteries too. Think mine are on their last leg.

Anyway, I bled the fuel line this morning, it definitely spit out some air. Afterwards my batteries didn't have enough juice to start it. So I got it jump started and all seemed fine. Let it idle a bit and then took it for a spin up the road. Only took it out on slow side roads, after about 10 minutes I started heading back and it sputtered out on me again. Started right back up and ran fine the rest of the way though. Hopefully it is fine now, we'll have to see!

If I drain the fuel filter anytime, does the air need to be bled out afterwards?

[JustinOK]

FYI I've been using a DTech that is remote mouted since last spring, and it's been running just fine. DTech has recently been in the news as having a superior PMD compared to the Stanadyne. Also, Pensacola Diesel sells a complete package deal (DTech PMD, heat sink, 6 foot harness) for a very good price.

Choice is completely yours, but I'd research which PMD to buy, as well as which remote cool kit to buy.

[Planohummer]

Originally Posted by AC HUM1

Hey guys thanks for all of the help and links. I will do that about the PMD to keep a spare with me. How hard would it be to mount that remote thing up? Seems like a good bit to it. Going to have to get some new batteries too. Think mine are on their last leg.

Anyway, I bled the fuel line this morning, it definitely spit out some air. Afterwards my batteries didn't have enough juice to start it. So I got it jump started and all seemed fine. Let it idle a bit and then took it for a spin up the road. Only took it out on slow side roads, after about 10 minutes I started heading back and it sputtered out on me again. Started right back up and ran fine the rest of the way though. Hopefully it is fine now, we'll have to see!

If I drain the fuel filter anytime, does the air need to be bled out
afterwards?

pmd remote is easier to install than factory-just leave the old one on side of pump.
yes you'll always need to drain filter. always open the valve on old filter with key on to make sure lift pump is working before removing the filter--otherwise you may strand yourself. if you don't see anything coming out filter you need a new lift pump(pretty common). Weak or inop lift pump will also shorten PMD life.

[AC HUM1]

Haven't fully researched the PMD yet, but I thought everything was well again with it. Before it felt like I turned the key off when it was shutting down. Now today it is starting to sputter off now instead of just a clean shut off. Figured I would update this to get more opinions if anyone has one. It is screwy that this started after an oil and filter change.

Batteries seem to be draining strangely too. After running it yesterday evening with no problems, this morning it didn't have enough juice to crank it. After jumping it off, it wouldn't stay running as I mentioned, it sputters off now almost like it was surging. Still fires right back up after it shuts off though.

[JustinOK]

Just saw this on ebay. Appears to be a new, Stanadyne PMD w/ harness and gasket.

Bidding starts at $129 or buy it now for $139.

No affiliation...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tchlink:top:us

[HUMTECH]

Sounds like you may have 2 problems. If your batteries keep dying you need to check for parasitic draw on the electrical system. Should have no more than 30 or so mA draw. Aftermarket electronics can cause big draws if not installed correctly. As for stalling and sputtering, it would be a good idea to scan for any codes, if air is getting in fuel system, you need to find the leak. How much fuel in the tank when this happens? I had one truck with a pinhole in the pickup tube in the tank, once down to just past half a tank of fuel it would allow air in and cause the same issure your having.