2 Inch Lift on H2.

[EastTexan]

What are the Bilstein part numbers for an H2 with 2 - 3 inch lift? What about the Bilstein part numbers for a 2500HD shock to fit the H2 with a 2 - 3 inch lift?

[SummitUp]

Originally Posted by EastTexan

What are the Bilstein part numbers for an H2 with 2 - 3 inch lift? What about the Bilstein part numbers for a 2500HD shock to fit the H2 with a 2 - 3 inch lift?

You have two choices:

Bilstein F4-BE5-6243-H5
12" compressed, 19" extended, 7" travel,
It is 389/94 valving which is pretty firm.

Bilstein BE5-6140-T5
11.77" compressed, 18.42" extended, 6.65" travel.
It's valved at 366/240which is very similar rebound, but much firmer compression giving a much firmer ride. Both shocks will work, one will be firm and the other will be really firm.

[EastTexan]

Very cool, thanks. They are advertised to fit 4" lift F150/250.(?)

[EastTexan]

Which Bilsteins did you put on the back?

[timgco]

btt, any updates, pics, good, bad, great?

[DuckTruck]

UPDATE:

I just had the Cognito 2-3" lift put on the H2. It is a fantastic kit and installation was easy.

Before my rear end was obviously higher than my front, just like every other stock H2. Now, my rear is still at 42" (bottom of fender to ground) and my front end is 43 1/2". Thus, this kit easily gave me 2" of lift if not more.

DUCK

[HumminNBoatin']

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" hirer than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches hirer in the front I did not do new shcoks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up

[HumminNBoatin']

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" higher than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches higher in the front I did not do new shocks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up.

[timgco]

Originally Posted by HumminNBoatin'

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" higher than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches higher in the front I did not do new shocks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up.

Do you have more info. on the rear spacers and pics? Did you do anything different for your brake lines, shocks, or, ride height sensors?

[DuckTruck]

Originally Posted by HumminNBoatin'

Did my lift yesterday acutally. I made spacers for the rear airide springs. Then did the Green Keys for the front. The end result of my lift was about
1-1/4" of lift in the front. and about 2-1/2" in the rear. I also have 37" tires so the truck is rideing 2-2 1/2" higher than stock. Over all it looks really good. With me only going a little 1-1/4" inches higher in the front I did not do new shocks. However..... When I do get new the full cognito set up I will go further up.

Yeah, I too would like more info. on the air susp. spacers.

Thanks,

DUCK

[HumminNBoatin']

I did not take any pix.

If you take your air spring out you will notice that the weight of the truck rides on a PLASTIC Cylinder with a bolt through the center to the axel to keep in centered.

Unbolt the plastic cylinder. Get some longer bolts to match how much you want to lift. I went 1 1/2" inches higher with the spacers. So I got bolts that were 1 1/2" inches longer. Note MAKE SURE YOU GET GRADE 10.9 BOLTS They are metric. I cannot remember the size. I want to say they are an M10 but do not hold me too it.

Then you need to get washers that will have the same a diameter as the inside surface of the cylinder. Then get 2" PVC pipe and cut your desired spacing height. I cut off two 1-1/2" pieces They (PVC) pipes will encase the bolt and washers and line up with the outer diameter of the cylinder. Run the bolt through the Cylinder, the washes and PVC pipe and torque down.

Get a 4" diameter piece of PVC and cut to same length. This will be outer diameter of the air spring bucket to set on. Snap the air spring back into place and inflate it buy putting the hose in your mouth so you can line up the outer PVC spacer with the spring on the axel. Then hook the lines to your compressor. Hit it with some flat black paint and your done building the spacer.

I know it sounds hokey etc.... But it works and it works well. I immediately flexed the hell out of the suspension and inspcected to make sure nothing was loos or moving around. Everything held Extremely tight even with the suspension all twisted.

I did not take any pix I will take some with my cell phone at lunch so you can see the end result.

After adding the spacers you have to trick the height sensors by adjusting them to get desired ride height. I used a Tec2 to do this.

[HumminNBoatin']

Ok I took some pix with my BB at lunch.

[DuckTruck]

Nicely done!

DUCK

[HumminNBoatin']

The truck before the discussed lift:


And after the discussed lift:

[Egan]

Originally Posted by tomp

Warning: the shock extensions I have seen are too tall for OEM length H2 shocks. To test this, ensure vehicle is on level ground at stock ehight in the front and resting on the bump stops, disconnect the bottom of the shock and see if you can push it up higher then where it would mount to the shock extension bracket. If you can't push it up where the shock's bolt hole goes up higher than the hole in the shock extension, you are either riding on a bottomed out shock if or slamming down on a bottomed out shock when the front end comes down on the bump stops. The latter is the case if you have cranked the TBs. This is true with all H2 shock extensions that I have seen to date. Yes, this is another mark against Truxx.

The reason this is a problem is because these companies assume the H2's shocks are the same as the 2500HD pickup trucks. The shocks are not the same and only have half of the travel that the 2500HDs have.

To correct this problem you must determine the proper amount to shorten the shock extension (to get your shocks into the right range of travel) or use the 2500HD shocks.

The reason the H2's have less travel is because they have extension and compression bump stops in them where the 2500HD shocks only have extension stops. This takes some of the travel away.

Here is the way you need to think about it: Consider the fact that you are pushing up the bottom of the shock much higher than you would be when at factory height and resting on the frame mounted stops.

If anyone doubts what I am saying here, call Rancho and ask them why their online Shock Specifications show H2's shocks with 2.5" of travel and the 2500HD has 4.6". You can also see in this same manual there is a symbol next to the H2's shocks in two places. This "cross" symbol is shown for both compressed length and extended length. This shock symbol is there to inform you of the included bump stops. Notice the 2500HD shocks only show the symbol once?

Also, for those of you thinking it is okay to rest on the stops - think again. Your shocks will start degrading very quicky as you are beating the heck out of them. I went through several sets of shocks and my ride quality went horrible fast - compared to a new vehicle. This was the cause of it!

BTW, my ride quality with torsion bars cranked is much better than stock now

Sorry to bump and old thread, but I found this during an image search on Google and it turns out to be good timing because I am putting together my front suspension right now.

I have Cognito UCA's, Truxx shock extenders and keys, and plan to crank the torsion keys up 2" or so. I bought Bilstein 5100's from http://www.dmaxstore.com and after reading the above bold section I probably ended up with the 2500HD shocks (part# F4-BE5-D146-H1). I have the driver's side done and I had to compress the snot out of the shock to get it to line up with the bracket holes (I haven't cranked the keys yet).

If I ended up with the longer travel shocks from the 2500HD, do I need to go back to the stock lower shock mount or am I okay with the extended ones?

[iwillnc]

I've actually been looking at this thread myself lately, but what made you decide on cognito UCA vs dmax UCA

[EastTexan]

You will definitely need to use the original shorter shock mounts when using longer travel shocks. And you will definitely benefit from the longer travel provided by the longer shocks. Besides looking cool, the whole reason for a lift kit is more suspension travel. Check out the Bilstein shocks specifically for H2's with 0 - 2.5" torsion bar lift.

[Egan]

Originally Posted by iwillnc

I've actually been looking at this thread myself lately, but what made you decide on cognito UCA vs dmax UCA

I didn't see a dmax uca. The Kryptonite ones weren't available when I ordered all of my parts which is why I went Cognito.