pitman arm replacement

[leenigen]

What size is the nut on the steering gear? The one holding the pitman arm to the steering gar box. I've tried 1 1/4,1 5/16, and 32mm. It seems like it may be 33mm, but that is a wierd size. Any ideas?

[leenigen]

What size is the nut on the steering gear? The one holding the pitman arm to the steering gar box. I've tried 1 1/4,1 5/16, and 32mm. It seems like it may be 33mm, but that is a wierd size. Any ideas?

[EXH1X5]

1 5/16" socket.

JJB

[NoMoGMPG]

Yup. 33mm is the stated size, I never could find one, 1 5/16" fits just fine, use a 6-point socket, not a 12-point if you can help it.

Dave

BTW, How's the Studebaker Hawkes doing, Jim? We miss you on the HML.

[NoMoGMPG]

Also, in case you didn't know, it makes for an easy replacement to unbolt the idler from the frame prior to removing the pitman arm. The center link will move sufficiently afterwards.

[leenigen]

Thanks for the tip. I was wondering if there would be enough movement in the center link.

[leenigen]

Alright, new problem. The shaft through the center link spins when trying to remove the nut. How do I deal with that?

[NoMoGMPG]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by leenigen:
Alright, new problem. The shaft through the center link spins when trying to remove the nut. How do I deal with that? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Boy, you do have a wasted pitman arm!

First, clean the threads fully with brake cleaner to get all the filth off, then spray it with a penetrant like liquid wrench. If the nut doesn't come off after soaking for a while, you will have to squeeze the arm down to the center link with some large vise grips so you can spin the nut without turning the tapered shaft. If that doesn't work, you may have to cut the nut off. Make sure you inspect that center link hole of elongating too, it may need to be replaced. I had to do that to a friends in Durango last year, his center link was so bad it took out all of his steering components because of side loading and excessive movement.

Good Luck!

[leenigen]

First I cleaned it up then I got it good and hot. After pinching it to the center link it finally came loose. That mew arm is a vast inprovment over the old one. Some of the steering slop is gone (although not all) and a mysterious clunk seems to be gone. The center link looks good. I was abit worried about that too, but I can't see any excesive wear.
Thanks for the help.

[NoMoGMPG]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by leenigen:
First I cleaned it up then I got it good and hot. After pinching it to the center link it finally came loose. That mew arm is a vast inprovment over the old one. Some of the steering slop is gone (although not all) and a mysterious clunk seems to be gone. The center link looks good. I was abit worried about that too, but I can't see any excesive wear.
Thanks for the help. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Raise up the passenger side and grasp the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, push/pull along that axis vigorously and watch the idler arm. There should be no more than 1/8" of movement at the center link. The idler/pitman arm combo is the most common reason for excessive movement. Usually, when you replace one, you replace the other as well.

[leenigen]

The idler appears to be okay. It has been replaced in the past with the moog problem solver while the pitman was still the original. I think most of the slop is coming from the steering gear itself. Eventually I would like to replace all steering components. My tires are developing cupping. Do you know if that is a common problem like older four wheel drives or maybe I have worn out springs. Although my ride hight is 17 inches under the crossmember.

[NoMoGMPG]

Springs that measure higher than 16" at the x-member are fine, more likely the shocks are causing the cupping, along with that sloppy pitman. I doubt your steering gear would give you that much excess movement.

[leenigen]

I've thought my shocks were bad but they don't appear to have leaked or be leaking. others have told me they won't go bad without leaking.

[NoMoGMPG]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by leenigen:
I've thought my shocks were bad but they don't appear to have leaked or be leaking. others have told me they won't go bad without leaking. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Take them off one at a time and move them in and out while holding them vertically. If they have a good amount of force to move them, they are okay. If they move easily in and out, they are shot. Leaking is a symptom only, I have seen bad shocks be totally dry.

BTW, I have replaced my idler 4 times in the 2.5 years I have owned my truck. It has to do with the amount and intensity of your driving that determines longevity. I had one last 3 weeks, but they were a fun 3 weeks.

[Ground hawg]

If you do need new shocks, there's some for sale on ebay $100 + shipping for a set

GROUND HWG

[leenigen]

thanks for the tip.