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04-06-2003, 10:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Whelp, I finally found the replacement lights for the DRLs.
This weekend they went out with extra garbage day.....
I used PhilD's recommended Radio Shack switch and Cibie lights.
If you want to do the same, it is a little bit of work, but the finished product is awesome. Let me know if you want more info.
Here is a few pix.
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04-06-2003, 10:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Whelp, I finally found the replacement lights for the DRLs.
This weekend they went out with extra garbage day.....
I used PhilD's recommended Radio Shack switch and Cibie lights.
If you want to do the same, it is a little bit of work, but the finished product is awesome. Let me know if you want more info.
Here is a few pix.
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04-06-2003, 10:03 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Here is the switch pix. As PhilD mentioned, it looks pretty OEM and has a light when it is on.
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04-06-2003, 10:11 PM
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Hummer Guru
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: CSA
Posts: 2,511
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Yep, I'm interested. What version of the Cibies are you using?
I'd like some feedback and pictures of how you installed the lamps.
Klaus
"God made some men big and some men small, but Sam Colt made them all equal."
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04-06-2003, 10:28 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Should I send you some more pix and a synopsis of what I did to your email address on your profile?
I can also sell you the Cibies if you decide to do it. They are somewhat difficult to find. I used the Tango's and chose the white fog pattern given the H2's lights are already have a pretty good distance and wanted something with a wide pattern to fill 30-40 feet out and the edges.
I will say that I have not driven with them at night yet, so you may want to wait for some feedback.
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04-06-2003, 10:48 PM
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Hummer Guru
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: CSA
Posts: 2,511
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I am particularly interested in how you mounted the lamps.
Are the lamps firmly mounted? Can you adjust the beam?
Thanks!
Klaus
"God made some men big and some men small, but Sam Colt made them all equal."
Last edited by DRTYFN : 11-05-2007 at 07:32 AM.
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04-06-2003, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: LAUREL, MS, USA
Posts: 102
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Put me in the loop also. 1dogfan@bellsouth.net
Are your lights on as DRL's also?
I already have a switch to turn them on at night if I want to. There is just not a lot of light after all the effort.
AL
__________________
\"Follow the white rabbit...\" Morpheus 1999....... It is finished.
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04-06-2003, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 216
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H2NorCal,
I used the same switch, same place and had to trim the rear of the factory switch housing.
Did you buy from serious auto or CibieUSA?
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04-06-2003, 11:18 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Fort Worth, TX USA
Posts: 41
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H2Norcal, I'm also interested in the specifics. Why not just post all the details here? If not please include me: tedmargo@charter.net
Mango -- Saltwater Flyfisherman, Photographer, Varmint Hunter -- Fort Worth, Tx
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
__________________
Mango -- Saltwater Flyfisherman, Photographer, Varmint Hunter -- Fort Worth, Tx
\"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.\"
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04-07-2003, 02:43 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Hey there- Here is the info so we don't have to do the email thing. I don't have formal detailed instructions but I do have some tips on my approach. This was just hard work. No fancy jumper a few wires and you’re done kinda thing. Here you go:
First, I bought the lights wholesale. They are Cibie Tangos. I can provide them if you what to buy them. They are about $148 for two (+shipping). There are a few Cibie resellers in No. America that can sell them as well. Let me know.
Materials-
1 - std.four position relay, 1 - three position switch from Radio Shack. Lots of lugs, lots of flexible wire cover and lots of routing. Oh, and the two lights. Read on...
Switch mounting- Like others on the forum, I removed my rear wiper switch. You have to take the little bugger completely apart. Be careful not to disturb the wiper switch itself. It is way loose when you remove the front panel and has contacts, PCB, etc. I used a 7/8" wood bit to cut a hole in the plastic front. After a little filing, the switch fit perfectly. If you make sure the top square portion of the switch is just a hair below or even with the ridge channel between the wiper label and the lower blank area (see my picture), the switch will line up perfectly in the opening and allow your dash opening to clear the bottom of the switch. The switch was meant for this spot. Tip; As Buddy mentioned, you have to remove portions of the plastic body of the wiper switch housing in order to get that switch and three lugs to fit back together. I cut the plastic with snips until the cover and switch fit with wires. Not too much cutting but it doesn't fit without some trimming.
Wiring -
Routing the wires was a pain of course. I won’t bore you with this, but under the dash on the firewall, parallel with the brake peddle and about as far as a human hand can reach, is the main wire harness through-hole boot. From under the hood I punched a small hole through. I used some welding wire to come in through the engine compartment. I taped the wires to the welding wire and lubed them with some oil and pulled them through. The boot is double walled and thick. I sealed the wires at the boot with a rubber sealant. You only have to bring through the Load and Hot wire for the switch. The ground terminates under the dash to any metal screw.
For a hot wire, under the hood I removed the lower part of the fuse box (not the just the cap) the entire fuse box housing (it has four hand release points). Underneath is a cool set of terminal blocks with hot and accessory terminal. I used this for my Hot.
For a hot relay control wire, I tapped into my front left marker light which remains hot with the parking or headlights allowing the Cibie's to follow the same disciplines. I mounted the relay just above the horn in the front frame area. There is a hole just waiting to mount it there.
Okay, enough you say, what about mounting the lights....Let the pain begin. I started by removing the skid plate, the plastic bumper piece the DRL's were in and removed the metal bumper.
The following is a set of pictures to mount the lights.
[This message was edited by H2Norcal on 04-06-03 at 09:52 PM.]
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04-07-2003, 02:58 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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After some heavy pondering, I chose to alter the DRL pockets and mount the lights solid to the metal bumper. I was concerned of shaking in that flimsy plastic bumper.
Although I cut the DRL pockets out first, here is a picture of the lights mounted to the bumper.
[This message was edited by H2Norcal on 04-06-03 at 10:24 PM.]
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04-07-2003, 03:00 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Here is another shot of them mounted.
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04-07-2003, 03:04 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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On the plastic, I removed the back mounting portion of the pockets only and made sure I kept the same contour (the pockets are angled to keep the direction facing properly). Basically I cut of about 1 1/2" of the entire back.
Not a great picture, sorry.
With the backs off of the holes now, you can set the plastic back in place and mark you holes to drill in the bumper (thus the reason you need to remove the metal bumper).
Are you lost? Are you saying to yourself, this guy is nuts, it ain't worth it....if not read on..
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04-07-2003, 03:09 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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Here are the holes in the bumper. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know, I need a new drill bit.
I cleaned it up.
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04-07-2003, 03:31 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 147
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After the holes were in, I mounted the lights. The nice thing about having them mounted to the bumper is they are fully adjustable from each side of the wheel wells and are firmly mounted and don't vibrate.
By leaving half of the original recessed plastic and just removing some of the back, it looks totally factory. Here is the finished product.
Let me know if you really think you want to do this and I can give you more info.
As for the lights, they are very bright. In fact, they are so bright when I turned off my headlights to test them they lit up the road enough to drive. They definitely fill the void where the factory lights skip just out in front of you.
My neighbor came by to find out what I was doing about ten times. We are talking about a guy that pays everyone to do everything for him, but he said "you mean they don't install fog lights on this thing from the factory?" Although I was into it, he had a real good point
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04-07-2003, 10:26 AM
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Hummer Guru
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: CSA
Posts: 2,511
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H2Norcal,
Thank you very much for the how to. Looks really good.
Question for you. Can you replace the bulbs without disassembling the front end?
Klaus
"God made some men big and some men small, but Sam Colt made them all equal."
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04-11-2003, 12:11 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 16
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Thanks H2NORCAL - I am new to the forum. What is the best way to get a hold of you to get these soon? One of my DRL's seems to have moisture inside the "plastic" housing.
dave;
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04-29-2003, 02:16 PM
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Hummer Veteran
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 214
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I was at a Hummer event hosted by Hummer of Sacramento and SMA was there with their H2. They had the PIA 520 installed at the DRL location. They said they are going to offer this as a kit for sale. Should be available in May.
__________________
03 H2 Sunset Orange Magna Charger w headers & cold air intake, 4\" Rancho lift, XTC Light Bars Front & Rear, 4.56 gears with Eaton Front Locker
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04-29-2003, 05:30 PM
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Hummer Expert
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Longwood, Florida USA
Posts: 547
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I have heard of people getting ticketed for running these kind of lights in the day.
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