H20 Guy's goods

[KenP]

#2 is the diff cover

Haven't had trouble with the bolts yet.

[2-H2's]

Originally Posted by CO Hummer

2H,

What is #2 below covering? I don't get it.

Also, #1 - those bolts are exposed and will get sheared off with any amount of real wheeling. Have you done anything about that?

#2 is the fabtech front diff skid plate.

#1 bolts never touched anything at K-Rocks...plus I just added the two control arm supports to prevent damaging them, which stick out 2-3" from those bolts. I'm running a lifted SUT w/ 38's...the only damage so far wheeling has been my right rear E&G fender flare (which I trimmed flush with the bumper on both sides now) & my control arm tabs on the fabtech lift kit.

[CO Hummer]

Originally Posted by 2-H2's

#2 is the fabtech front diff skid plate.

#1 bolts never touched anything at K-Rocks...plus I just added the two control arm supports to prevent damaging them, which stick out 2-3" from those bolts. I'm running a lifted SUT w/ 38's...the only damage so far wheeling has been my right rear E&G fender flare (which I trimmed flush with the bumper on both sides now) & my control arm tabs on the fabtech lift kit.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh. I see now. I wasn't paying attention to the fact that you have a lift. That is very nice. Those Fabtech kits leave you really exposed. Thanks!

[2-H2's]

Originally Posted by CO Hummer

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh. I see now. I wasn't paying attention to the fact that you have a lift. That is very nice. Those Fabtech kits leave you really exposed. Thanks!

That's the reason for the added protection up front...the control arm tabs on the lift come in contact with everything on the trail. I'll find out this weekend if the added protection actually works.

If you have any ideas to correct these issues, by all means speak up...

[2-H2's]

If these latest mods work out...then it's on to the CL issue

[H2Oguy]

Here are some pics (hopefully)

[Longhorn]

I like where you are going with that rear bumper. I've been waiting for a low profile, rock-oriented design. The departure angle looks considerably better.

I'm anxious to see a finished, powder coated version!

[CO Hummer]

Neil,
Since you never read PMs but once a month......

I got your PM. I responded with some picks of the midrails near the exhaust. Check your PM!

[Alan06SUT]

Do you have rock rails or new under carrage protection? I'm looking for something that does not reduce ground clearance or add hundreds of pounds.

I think the stock stuff is pretty darn good, but I'm tired of taking it all off and banging it back straight after each trip. Plus I think it is now weaker after bending it back and forth so many times.

[CO Hummer]

Originally Posted by Alan06SUT

Do you have rock rails or new under carrage protection? I'm looking for something that does not reduce ground clearance or add hundreds of pounds.

I think the stock stuff is pretty darn good, but I'm tired of taking it all off and banging it back straight after each trip. Plus I think it is now weaker after bending it back and forth so many times.

You have a dilemma then. If you want something you don't need bang back straight every time, then you need something beefy. That means adding a lot of weight.

Neil's skid and midrails each weight about 100lbs. You have to pay the weight price to get something that won't buckle under a 7000 lbs vehicle. There's no disputing it - taking off the skid plate is a bit of a pain. I've done it 2 twice. It requires using a floor jack (which can be bought at walmart for only $40). And, I recommend using through-bolts on the rear of the plates (two outside bolts) to fully secure it from coming loose. It's really not difficult. But it's not like the taking off that worthless factory tinfoil skid which weighs almost nothing.

You DON'T have to remove the skid to change the oil. You don't have to remove the plate to reach the 11 zerk valves for a lube job (provided you change that upper one a right angle valve). You don't have to remove the skid to change the front diff fluid. I've seen people post that you have to take the factory skid off get to the zerks. I don't remember exactly how my old factory one fit, but the new skid is open enough of the sides to reach the zerks.

[KenP]

Pee really causes rust.

[Alan06SUT]

Originally Posted by CO Hummer

You have a dilemma then. If you want something you don't need bang back straight every time, then you need something beefy. That means adding a lot of weight.

Neil's skid and midrails each weight about 100lbs. You have to pay the weight price to get something that won't buckle under a 7000 lbs vehicle. There's no disputing it - taking off the skid plate is a bit of a pain. I've done it 2 twice. It requires using a floor jack (which can be bought at walmart for only $40). And, I recommend using through-bolts on the rear of the plates (two outside bolts) to fully secure it from coming loose. It's really not difficult. But it's not like the taking off that worthless factory tinfoil skid which weighs almost nothing.

You DON'T have to remove the skid to change the oil. You don't have to remove the plate to reach the 11 zerk valves for a lube job (provided you change that upper one a right angle valve). You don't have to remove the skid to change the front diff fluid. I've seen people post that you have to take the factory skid off get to the zerks. I don't remember exactly how my old factory one fit, but the new skid is open enough of the sides to reach the zerks.

How much do they reduce ground clearance?

As for the weight, I would think a simple steel skidplate w/ ridges rather than the aluminum one would work up front (maybee 60 Lbs if you use like 3/16"); and just adding a couple of angle pieces to the stock mid-plate( 20 lbs) to give it better lateral stiffness would do it. Or just double the thickness of the tubes on the stock mid rails to make it about 60 lbs.

What about the rock sliders? Does his have something flat on the bottom to keep rocks from peeling back the body mount and slider mounts when you are on rocks? Mine are bent to hell! I like the idea that they stick out some so they can be used a small step, or to keep rocks farther from the body in tight squeezes. Some of the oter ones I've seen (for diffrent makes) have a bar that comes up and away to help keep rocks out of the rocker and lower doors. Like the ones on this K5...

[H2Oguy]

The front skid is actually 85 or 90 lbs. it is made a 3/16" materials but has lots of support members to take lots of abuse.

Keeping the same design of the factory mid rail and just making the material thicker does not work the design is not adequate to get the job done. Mid rails are 105lbs.

The H2 is = to a 3/4 ton truck some extra weight does not mess with it.

Total ground clearance is reduced by .5" max. I believe it is a bit more is certain locations but all in all .5".

Rock Rails do have a removable full skid plate that is attached. I can not find any of the old pics but my design has changed a bit, and I should have pics of the new set tomorrow (unfinished, I am working on them right now).

[CO Hummer]

Originally Posted by H2Oguy

Keeping the same design of the factory mid rail and just making the material thicker does not work the design is not adequate to get the job done.

No doubt. The factory peice of junk goes about HALF the distance of the midrail (ends just before the t-case covering).

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by H2Oguy

Keeping the same design of the factory mid rail and just making the material thicker does not work the design is not adequate to get the job done.

Originally Posted by CO Hummer

No doubt. The factory peice of junk goes about HALF the distance of the midrail (ends just before the t-case covering).

Even others coming up with new stuff on Ebay still don't quite "get it."

[Alan06SUT]

Originally Posted by CO Hummer

No doubt. The factory peice of junk goes about HALF the distance of the midrail (ends just before the t-case covering).

Thats a nice piece.

[timgco]

Originally Posted by 2-H2's

Tim,

I'll get you some pics later tonight or Wednesday of the sliders. I built them before K-Rocks in a hurry. Since returning, I modified them...pulled them out 2.5" from the original mounting point. That way when I remove the steps for wheeling I can use them for sliders & steps.

Lee

Any pics yet? Thanks.

[31_bandits]

well, if a waiting list for this stuff breaks out I may have to get a little more involved with the old tools & figga something out.

[31_bandits]

but 3 cheers for H2O