2003 H2 will not start

[adrock353]

Battery tested, works fine. Nothing happens when key is in start position. Thinking a short somewhere or a fuse maybe? Anyone come accross this or have any ideas?

Thanks

Adam

[RCKSTR]

Mine did the same thing, it was a blown fuse in the engine compartment. Cant remember its exact name or location in the fuse block, but it was blown, and fired right up after I changed it. Check all the fuses in that block

[adrock353]

sweet, thanks for the tip. Hopefully this is what it will be. I will update tomorrow or later today

[orlasttoy]

do you have an alarm with an engine kill? mine shorted & caused same symptoms

[adrock353]

nope, just the standard keyless

[adrock353]

checked fuses, none blown that I could find. Still at the same point?

[RCKSTR]

Is it cranking? or doing nothing at all? Im going to go check exactly what fuse it was on mine. Mine wouldnt turn over, and after jumping the starter with a screw driver, I realized it wasnt getting spark either. Thats when I checked the fuse and found it blown. Will let you know wich one it was...

[adrock353]

ok...thanks. No cranking at all but full power inside. Having a mechanic buddy come over on Saturday but I would love to have it be a fuse. Supposed to snow tomorrow and I'm not looking forward of taking the garage queen out in the snow.

[Easy Ed]

IGN A 40 A Fuse is for Ignition Switch RUN, START, RUN/START/ACCY, STARTER Relay.

IGN B 40 A Fuse is for Ignition Switch RUN/ACC, RUN/START

CRANK 10 A Fuse is for Ignition Switch, PCM Module

Might also try to swap Park Lamp and Starter Relay to see if that helps in case relay is bad.

And just to be sure, shifter is fully in park ?

Good luck, Ed


Attachment 52170

[adrock353]

IGN A and B are fuse blocks? How can you check them and see if they are blown? What would that look like?

[Easy Ed]

Look for the copper inside to be burnt in two like a regular blown fuse would.

Attachment 52171

Originally Posted by adrock353

IGN A and B are fuse blocks? How can you check them and see if they are blown? What would that look like?

[adrock353]

ok, I will pull those and take a goog look. I just looked those guys over quickly assuming I would see a little black on the top glass. Thanks for the help.

[adrock353]

definately not the fuses

[Easy Ed]

Checked mine first before I asked and it will start in neutral, will yours ?
Just something to check

[adrock353]

yeah I checked trying in neutral and I get the same result...I will let you guys know what I come up with on Saturday. But if you have more suggestions I would love to hear them.

Thanks
Adam

[dna]

Had it happen on mine - was a bad starter. You can try to bang on the starter with a hammer (it is near the front passenger wheel compartment). Banging on it will temporarily release the magnets and may allow it to start again. But if that works, it will continue until you replace the starter. I did mine myself - it was an easy swap (and cheap too - a generic starter was about $200).

[RCKSTR]

Sounds exactly like what mine did. Mine was the crank or pcm fuse (there was a yellow 20 amp fuse in its spot). Changed it, fired right up. Odd that it blew, My battery had died from sitting all winter,so I jump started the truck, let it idle for what I thought was 20 mins, but when I went outside to shut it off, it already was.

It wouldnt crank, so I put the battery charger back on for a full day. Battery tested good, so I figured the starter was shot. I put a test light on the starter terminal and discovered there wasnt any power going to the starter. After jumping the starter terminals (with the ignition in the run position) and it cranking strong for 15 seconds, realized it wasnt getting spark, but oddly enough, the fuel pump was running.

Anyway, hope you figure it out and let us know what it was. Also check all the fuses in the drivers side panel of the dash, I didnt have a problem there, but you never know. Good luck!

[orlasttoy]

did you solve the mystery?

[Circ]

+1 for "bang the starter motor" I had the same problem - tapped the motor with a hammer, started right up, hasn't failed (knock on wood) again in probably 50 starts?

I know it's a matter of time, but I don't want to change out the starter until it gets a little warmer in the driveway

[RCKSTR]

The "banging the starter trick" might work if you have tested the starter for voltage when the key is turned to start. You can run a long lead from the crank terminal (small wire) on the starter up to a test light that you can see from the drivers seat. If it lights up, its your starter. Keep holding the key on start, and have someone else tap the starter with the hammer. If there is no voltage at the stater, all the banging in the world wont help.