Mechanical Improvement Option

[MarineHawk]

Okay, two months after buying this beast, I have bought: monster tie rods, a winch, upgraded rear diff cover, 37" tires, and magnetic shields. If I do nothing else, what's the first thing, if any, I'm likely to break or damage on difficult, but not extreme, trials such that I would say "Damn, I wish I could go back in time and install a ___ so that I would not have broken my stock ___ thingy"?
Here, I'm not really looking at performance enhancers, like lifts or a front-end locker yet. Just trying to shore up any loose ends if there are any.
Do I need a steering stabilizer?
Better shocks?
Something else?
Nothing?

Thanks in advance.

[PARAGON]

Personally I would look at the Cognito steering supports. They offer extra support to the pitman and idler arms and will probably help with premature wear but also keep the flexing down while on the trail.

http://www.trailduty.com/products/cognito/index.html

[MarineHawk]

Originally posted by PARAGON:
Personally I would look at the Cognito steering supports. They offer extra support to the pitman and idler arms and will probably help with premature wear but also keep the flexing down while on the trail.

http://www.trailduty.com/products/cognito/index.html

Thanks. Does that moot the need for a steering stabilizer? Does it achieve the same end?

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by MarineHawk:

Thanks. Does that moot the need for a steering stabilizer? Does it achieve the same end?

No, and you already have a steering stabilizer, it's just a cheap stock one like your shocks. Let it and your shocks go for a while and you can replace them down the road because they aren't very good.

Otherwise I agree with Phil. Get some new good recovery gear, synthetic line for the winch instead of wire rope, extension if you want, 1 or 2 snatch blocks, 1 or 2 tree straps, snatch strap, shackles, etc.

[MarineHawk]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Thanks. Does that moot the need for a steering stabilizer? Does it achieve the same end?

No, it just provides better support for the Pitman/idler arms and reduces wear on them.

There are ceratin things we know are very weak, tie rods being the main one. The rest, I'd just wait until you break it. The stock underbody protection is a bit of a joke, but H20's stuff is not available for a month or so. Maybe weld some angle iron on the rear trailing arms, otherwise you are good to go.

If you really just have to spend some money, start looking at your recovery/trail gear. A good recovery kit is a no brainer, a winch is very helpful of course, a syn cable is a good idea, a PullPal if you wheel alone, a PowerTank is useful, even if you have air ride.

I'd just wait until yopu find a particular weak Bear in mind, that what some people break, you never will, and you may break something no one else does. All depends on where you wheel and how, so don't go rushing off spending moeny for the sake of it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MarineHawk:

Thanks. Does that moot the need for a steering stabilizer? Does it achieve the same end?

No, and you already have a steering stabilizer, it's just a cheap stock one like your shocks. Let it and your shocks go for a while and you can replace them down the road because they aren't very good.

Otherwise I agree with Phil. Get some new good recovery gear, synthetic line for the winch instead of wire rope, extension if you want, 1 or 2 snatch blocks, 1 or 2 tree straps, snatch strap, shackles, etc. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So, are you saying I should bypass the Cognito steering supports for now? Or get those and stop there until I wear out my shocks and steering stabilizer? What is it that the Cognito thingy prevents wear on?

As to my recovery gear, I have:

* This: http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-s...r_kit_h2.shtml

* This stuff: http://www.warn.com/truck/accessorie...flagebag.shtml

* Two extra shackles

* Spear-like tire-repair kit thingy (would make a good weapon in a pinch)

* One of these: http://www.hummerstuff.com/catalog/d...roduct_id=4785 and another car-charger air compressor

* Shovel

I'll probably get a synthetic cable and PullPal down the road just a little.

Do I need another snatch (heh, heh) block?

More straps?

Is my H2 air compressor along with those other, aforementioned wimpy ones enough or do I need the monster tank thingy? (running out of space back there)

With the 37" MT-type tires, am I correct in assuming that tire chains would rarely, if ever, be of much help, even in a blizzard?

Thanks for all the advice.

[2-H2's]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Thanks. Does that moot the need for a steering stabilizer? Does it achieve the same end?

No, it just provides better support for the Pitman/idler arms and reduces wear on them.

There are ceratin things we know are very weak, tie rods being the main one. The rest, I'd just wait until you break it. The stock underbody protection is a bit of a joke, but H20's stuff is not available for a month or so. Maybe weld some angle iron on the rear trailing arms, otherwise you are good to go.

If you really just have to spend some money, start looking at your recovery/trail gear. A good recovery kit is a no brainer, a winch is very helpful of course, a syn cable is a good idea, a PullPal if you wheel alone, a PowerTank is useful, even if you have air ride.

I'd just wait until yopu find a particular weak Bear in mind, that what some people break, you never will, and you may break something no one else does. All depends on where you wheel and how, so don't go rushing off spending moeny for the sake of it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

PhilD,

Ump-tinee K later & now YOU spill the beans

Can I send it all back now that I have some good pics? LMAO

Lee

[PARAGON]

I would still do the Cognito's. They are a preventative as well.

I wouldn't worry about a second snatch block if you wheel with others, if you get into a funky situation requiring 2, someone else usually has one.

Get something strong and else besides the stock wrench for removing the lugs should you have to change a tire, we bent the stock one in Tellico.

And I don't think tire chains will even work with 37". They'll probably tear up the wheel wells.

[timgco]

...my 2 cents FWIW. ...after 3 H2's.

If you are running 37's, go get the upgraded steering stabilzer (Rancho or Fabtech), this will help off road. I also have the Rancho 9000's shocks and they ROCK! Big difference IMO. When I put my 37's on the first H2, the steering wheel seemed to almost yank out of hands off road. My steering stabilizer could have been shot at that point though. Anhow, I noticed a HUGE difference. Same while cornering!

Also, a progammer (superchips or Hypertech) helped with shifting and a slight power increase. It's also nice to have the option of plugging in your truck while out in the middle of BF Moab to see what's wrong.

For a Programmer, shocks, steering stabilzer you're at about 1K without install, but well worth the upgrade IMO.

So, there ya go, take it or leave it.
Tim.

[timgco]

Also, I'm not sure the chaine will fit with 37's and no lift. I have not done this yet though. Maybe someone else with 37's can say for sure.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by MarineHawk:
(running out of space back there)

Do you have a Gobi?

[MarineHawk]

Thanks everyone for all the good advice.

Originally posted by PhilD:
Considering how easy it is to wear out the Pitman/idler arms, I would seriously consider [a Cognito thingy]. Like Paragon says, I'd wait until your stock stabilier and/or shocks wear out before replacing them.

I think I'll do that. By chance, do you know where I can get one?

Originally posted by PhilD:
Add an ax.

Done.

Originally posted by PhilD:
An air tank can reseat a bead (a big ratchet strap can help sometimes), run air tools, etc, and will inflate your tires much faster. But seeing as you have already invested so much in compressors, you may just want to wait until you discover you need(ed) one.

My main thing on the air tank isn't cost (though that's always a factor); it's more space. I didn't really invest in what I have. Air comp in rear came with the H2; I got the "Power Center" with part of the credit from the dealer for leaving that atrocious spare tire cover with them when I left there with my new vehicle; the other one might be useless - it came with my old Trooper when I bought it - it weighs maybe 2 pounds. I probably should get the PowerTank, but I will wait.

Originally posted by PhilD:
... if I were to buy a brand new H2 today, I would go the same route as you [lifts, lockers, etc.], do it all in one go, no doubt about it. I wouldn't waste my time with one of those stock lowered H2's

I would too - except that I would then have to buy another vehicle to drive to work.

Originally posted by timgco:
If you are running 37's, go get the upgraded steering stabilzer (Rancho or Fabtech), this will help off road. I also have the Rancho 9000's shocks and they ROCK! Big difference IMO. When I put my 37's on the first H2, the steering wheel seemed to almost yank out of hands off road. My steering stabilizer could have been shot at that point though. Anhow, I noticed a HUGE difference. Same while cornering!

Thanks for the input. How long had you run your stock shocks before you got the Ranchos? I'll probably run my stock shocks for the remainder of the year, and then take your advice.

Originally posted by timgco:
Also, a progammer (superchips or Hypertech) helped with shifting and a slight power increase. It's also nice to have the option of plugging in your truck while out in the middle of BF Moab to see what's wrong.

I'll probably take your advice on that too, but also down the road a bit.

Originally posted by PARAGON:
Do you have a Gobi?

Same problem as with lift - parking. See above. I know they are removable, but I assume it's a PITA? I was thinking about just getting a cargo carrier to go on the cross bars for long trips, and leaving excess, non-wheeling gear at the hotel/campsite.

When I get the the Cognito steering supports, I'll have to get an allignment done - so I'll probably crank the T-bars no more than an inch then too. Then, I can spend more money later.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Thanks everyone for all the good advice.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Considering how easy it is to wear out the Pitman/idler arms, I would seriously consider [a Cognito thingy]. Like Paragon says, I'd wait until your stock stabilier and/or shocks wear out before replacing them.

I think I'll do that. By chance, do you know where I can get one?

Originally posted by PhilD:
Add an ax.

Done.

Originally posted by PhilD:
An air tank can reseat a bead (a big ratchet strap can help sometimes), run air tools, etc, and will inflate your tires much faster. But seeing as you have already invested so much in compressors, you may just want to wait until you discover you need(ed) one.

My main thing on the air tank isn't cost (though that's always a factor); it's more space. I didn't really invest in what I have. Air comp in rear came with the H2; I got the "Power Center" with part of the credit from the dealer for leaving that atrocious spare tire cover with them when I left there with my new vehicle; the other one might be useless - it came with my old Trooper when I bought it - it weighs maybe 2 pounds. I probably should get the PowerTank, but I will wait.

Originally posted by PhilD:
... if I were to buy a brand new H2 today, I would go the same route as you [lifts, lockers, etc.], do it all in one go, no doubt about it. I wouldn't waste my time with one of those stock lowered H2's

I would too - except that I would then have to buy another vehicle to drive to work.

Originally posted by timgco:
If you are running 37's, go get the upgraded steering stabilzer (Rancho or Fabtech), this will help off road. I also have the Rancho 9000's shocks and they ROCK! Big difference IMO. When I put my 37's on the first H2, the steering wheel seemed to almost yank out of hands off road. My steering stabilizer could have been shot at that point though. Anhow, I noticed a HUGE difference. Same while cornering!

Thanks for the input. How long had you run your stock shocks before you got the Ranchos? I'll probably run my stock shocks for the remainder of the year, and then take your advice.

Originally posted by timgco:
Also, a progammer (superchips or Hypertech) helped with shifting and a slight power increase. It's also nice to have the option of plugging in your truck while out in the middle of BF Moab to see what's wrong.

I'll probably take your advice on that too, but also down the road a bit.

Originally posted by PARAGON:
Do you have a Gobi?

Same problem as with lift - parking. See above. I know they are removable, but I assume it's a PITA? I was thinking about just getting a cargo carrier to go on the cross bars for long trips, and leaving excess, non-wheeling gear at the hotel/campsite.

When I get the the Cognito steering supports, I'll have to get an allignment done - so I'll probably crank the T-bars no more than an inch then too. Then, I can spend more money later. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>FWIW, I didn't need an alignment after adding the Cognitos.

[MarineHawk]

Interesting.
TrailDuty says: "It is required to have the front end alignment performed after installing this system."
Maybe they are overcautious, and even though it may not be necessary, since I was looking for an excuse to crank the T-bar a little anyway, I'll probably do so and get it alligned.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Interesting.
TrailDuty says: "It is required to have the front end alignment performed after installing this system."
Maybe they are overcautious, and even though it may not be necessary, since I was looking for an excuse to crank the T-bar a little anyway, I'll probably do so and get it alligned.

I took mine in and they put it on the rack, it just didn't need any adjustments. But if you are going to do the torsion bars, you will.

[MarineHawk]

Did you do your t-bars?

And I mean not necessarily in conjunction with the steering stuff. I was just wondering how high I should go. Does between 4 and 5 turns - 0.8 to 1.0" sound safe?