trail arm issues?

[RonB]

hi all,
I was wondering if anyone else here has had issues with their trail arms.

Yesterday I was playing around on some hills in Gorman with a friend. I didn't have enough traction to make it all the way up this one fairly steep hill -- too much loose dirt. Almost to the top the front end started to bounce, so I immediately let off the gas decided not to push my luck and break another tie-rod. I decided to play it safe and back down. I was moving downhill very slowly using the breaks. The tires were mostly sliding, but once they got traction the trail arms buckled, rotating the rear diff nearly 45 degrees upward, breaking off the driveshaft. The upward-rotated diff and whatever was still attatched to it ground a nice hole into my gas tank shield (all cigarettes were extinguished at this time). It seems the H2 comes with a built in lathe.

Luckily, once I pulled the driveshaft completely off, I could drive to the road using the front wheels.

So...the hd trail arms Billy and Rachel are selling have just moved from the bottom to the top of my list of "must-have's".

I was more shocked than pissed. I was going SO slow trying to be very careful. I've been a bit gun-shy about pushing my truck since I broke the tie-rod.

enjoy, but be careful!
Ron B

[RonB]

hi all,
I was wondering if anyone else here has had issues with their trail arms.

Yesterday I was playing around on some hills in Gorman with a friend. I didn't have enough traction to make it all the way up this one fairly steep hill -- too much loose dirt. Almost to the top the front end started to bounce, so I immediately let off the gas decided not to push my luck and break another tie-rod. I decided to play it safe and back down. I was moving downhill very slowly using the breaks. The tires were mostly sliding, but once they got traction the trail arms buckled, rotating the rear diff nearly 45 degrees upward, breaking off the driveshaft. The upward-rotated diff and whatever was still attatched to it ground a nice hole into my gas tank shield (all cigarettes were extinguished at this time). It seems the H2 comes with a built in lathe.

Luckily, once I pulled the driveshaft completely off, I could drive to the road using the front wheels.

So...the hd trail arms Billy and Rachel are selling have just moved from the bottom to the top of my list of "must-have's".

I was more shocked than pissed. I was going SO slow trying to be very careful. I've been a bit gun-shy about pushing my truck since I broke the tie-rod.

enjoy, but be careful!
Ron B

[RonB]

hi all,
I was wondering if anyone else here has had issues with their trail arms.

Yesterday I was playing around on some hills in Gorman with a friend. I didn't have enough traction to make it all the way up this one fairly steep hill -- too much loose dirt. Almost to the top the front end started to bounce, so I immediately let off the gas decided not to push my luck and break another tie-rod. I decided to play it safe and back down. I was moving downhill very slowly using the breaks. The tires were mostly sliding, but once they got traction the trail arms buckled, rotating the rear diff nearly 45 degrees upward, breaking off the driveshaft. The upward-rotated diff and whatever was still attatched to it ground a nice hole into my gas tank shield (all cigarettes were extinguished at this time). It seems the H2 comes with a built in lathe.

Luckily, once I pulled the driveshaft completely off, I could drive to the road using the front wheels.

So...the hd trail arms Billy and Rachel are selling have just moved from the bottom to the top of my list of "must-have's".

I was more shocked than pissed. I was going SO slow trying to be very careful. I've been a bit gun-shy about pushing my truck since I broke the tie-rod.

enjoy, but be careful!
Ron B

[H2-USA]

Ron,

You might also check Edelbrock's site. They are also manufacturing a heavy duty control arm for the H2. Looks pretty good. Since their buildings are basically just down the street, I am planning on picking up a set soon and giving them a workout.

Steve-CA.

Here's the site:
Edelbrock Suspension Components - Page 2

Hopefully this takes you there, slight challenge getting it added.

[RonB]

thanks for the info. The reason I was taking it easy on the truck is because I am going to sell it -- so I will just have it repaired with stock parts (anyone want my rubberduck ucp/front locker/winch with x-line/spare set of tires on stock rims?).

The repair is not as bad as I thought. The service tech said the good thing about being mostly tahoe/silverado underneath is the availability of cheap parts to fix 'em. I was expecting a bill around $4 to $5k...all said and done it will be $2100.

Moral of the story is to be extremely careful backing this vehicle down hills. Sudden traction gain/hitting ruts in reverse at extreme angles will definately end your trip. This truck in it's stock form is simply not able to handle it's own weight in some situations.

Ron

[timgco]

Ron, what are the details of your parts you want to get rid of.
What brand winch, how much, will you ship to CO?

[H2Finally]

Ron, check your PM!

[RonB]

I won't get my truck back for a week...but off the top of my head --

-warn 9000i on a multi mount with X-line

-Rubberduck's front and rear undercarriage protection

-4 new all-terrains on new stock wheels.

I'm bummed about installing the front locker 3 months ago. I also have some slightly used/trail modified trail arms -- cheap!

timgco, the winch is 100 + lbs...I wouldn't know how to package it for shipping?

When I get the truck back next week I'll know more and can post pictures.

Ron B

[It\'s a Dry Heat]

Just ordered Edelbrock's trail arms from trail duty. BEST PRICES!
Sorry you had to go through it. But others are learning from you and this forum. Thanks again for your post.

[Kevin B]

I beefed my stock ones up for $12.00 and it took less than an hour . Saw this comming a while ago. Also the 3/8 inch angle makes a very nice "sliding surface".

[RonB]

I would have paid an extra $12 for this -- should have come from the factory like this. If is cost you $12, it would've cost GM 12 cents.

got the truck back, it's all good for now...until I take it in the butt on the trade in. Then I'll know how "SUV's Suck" feels.

Ron

[Bad Dawg]

RonB - I haven't been on here for a while. Sorry to hear about your H2 breaking so easily too. For some reason some of them seem to have issues like we both have had for no real reason other than some of the parts needed to be designed beefier than they were. You are right, you will take it in the butt on the trade in. Good luck.

[RonB]

I can't be too hard on the truck. It's still rattle free and drives just like it did new...like a caddy. I still think it's an engineering marvel -- so comfy on the road, yet still very capable off road. Most of the probs I've had are my own fault -- climbing the steep hills that jeepers go around.

I would have kept the truck at least through the end of the factory warranty, but a good deal on an H1 fell in my lap. Plus here in LA there are way too many H2's. I'll miss the luxury.

Ron B

[MisterEd]

Whatever you do, don't buy a set of Hotchkis trail arms.

They have the grease fittings mounted on the bottom side as well as 4 holes to mount the trailing arms to another vehicles' sway bar. Great if you want mud & water inside your trail arms with no effective way to get it out.

[guruerror]

Originally Posted by MisterEd

Whatever you do, don't buy a set of Hotchkis trail arms.

They have the grease fittings mounted on the bottom side as well as 4 holes to mount the trailing arms to another vehicles' sway bar. Great if you want mud & water inside your trail arms with no effective way to get it out.

I just got my Hotchkis 1305s. There are no extra holes as you describe...some Hotchkis arms have those holes (e.g., the 1302s) but they do not allow mud/water/etc into the arm; they pass straight through as if the arm was completely solid.

And you can work around the zerk issue by installing them upside down and drilling a hole in the frame to accommodate the zerk...problem solved. My dealer came up with this solution...as they know I have trouble staying on the pavement.

AND, 'YES,' I know this is a VERY old thread, but I wanted to clarify the Hotchkis issue in this thread in case someone else is searching for trailing arm info...especially since Edelbrock discontinued their product.

[guruerror]

Originally Posted by guruerror

I just got my Hotchkis 1305s. There are no extra holes as you describe...some Hotchkis arms have those holes (e.g., the 1302s) but they do not allow mud/water/etc into the arm; they pass straight through as if the arm was completely solid.

UPDATE: There ARE holes in the 1305s too...I didn't see them at first as they do not pass horizontally through the arm as they do on the 1302s, but vertically. That said, they still do not allow any water or debris inside the arm as they are completely sealed. They pass through as if the arm were completely solid.

[charles06]

Did you notice any difference after install? Or was it more for peace of mind?

[guruerror]

I haven't noticed any real difference yet...I also had Truxxx spacers and new longer Bilstein rear shocks put in. But I used to get a fair amount of light rear-end hopping when on gravel switchback trails, so I'm hoping that the combination of the arms and shocks will help reduce this some.