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Go Back   Hummer Forums by Elcova > Hummer H2 Discussion Forums > Technical Discussion and Customizing your H2

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  #1  
Old 05-24-2005, 10:50 AM
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Know this has been addressed but could'nt find it. Went to start the ol girl and it acted like battery was dead. Nothing cam on...no lights no battery, Tried to start it several more times then on try #4, it started. Goind to dealership soon but any heads up on what this is?
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2005, 02:21 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sfox:
I think it may be time to upgrade to an Optima Yellow Top!
S </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Amen!
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  #3  
Old 05-24-2005, 12:57 PM
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Yes...Craig said something to do with ignition sensors? We'll see.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sfox:
Do you still have the stock battery?

S </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:00 PM
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Something smells fishy here.
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Old 05-30-2005, 03:51 PM
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My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before.
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Old 05-26-2005, 02:07 PM
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2 loaded sideways, bottom to bottom. Shot from driver's side. (Red tops have same dimensions as yello tops.)
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  #7  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:30 PM
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Is there a manual or something I can get that tells me all this?
I was just wondering about the catyletic converters and if they're hi-flow. Now I'm wondering about the alternator.
Does the Service Manual have these specs in it, and where do I find one?
Thanks again for the info!
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Old 05-26-2005, 02:52 AM
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Something I found out as My batt kept going dead. Dealer said they have been having trouble with front pass seat control sticking after moved. They put knew control in and no more trouble. Different than present problem but, thought some may need this little bit of info.
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:23 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
I had them run the battery load test at the dealership, because my poor car will be there for a few days. The battery was low and they are replacing it. I wonder if running my off road lights for a few miles finished it off.
They require 35A and I'm not sure about the electrical system of the H2. What is Current output of the stock alternator? I would think that running at 1500 RPM it would provide enough charge for a few miles.
Anyway, thanks for the tips. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The stock alternator is 145 amps at 2000rpm, more than enough to run your lamps.

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Old 06-08-2005, 01:43 AM
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Get what info you can, pictures dimensions etc.
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:08 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That tech should be fired for incompetence. Just because the "eye" shows green (they don't anymore, ACDelco took it out it was so misleading) doesn't mean the battery would pass a load test. The proper procedure would be a Midtronics battery tester sequence. Insist upon a load test and ask to see the results, it comes as a printout showing the various readings under load.

Dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I had them run the battery load test at the dealership, because my poor car will be there for a few days. The battery was low and they are replacing it. I wonder if running my off road lights for a few miles finished it off.
They require 35A and I'm not sure about the electrical system of the H2. What is Current output of the stock alternator? I would think that running at 1500 RPM it would provide enough charge for a few miles.
Anyway, thanks for the tips.
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:25 AM
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Im thinking of going witht he yellow top too....does anyone have pics of how it sits in the battery spot? is it a very tight fit?
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  #13  
Old 05-24-2005, 06:40 PM
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Update...Leaking battery. Of course dealer says a battery...even though its leaking!!!!...isnt covered under the extended warraty I spent 2K on. We'll just see about that. I had them put a new one in anyway. I've got a few letters to write.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:22 PM
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If you are using a dual battery set-up, it's a bit tricky and there are about 3 ways to do it. With one single optima yellow top, it's a no brainer.
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Old 05-26-2005, 02:16 PM
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Where did those pics come from. I have tried to get with some tray makers to have that exact setup for mine. I want to add a red top to my yellow top for the cranking amps. The yellows are not enough by themselves if they are a little drained and it gets cold. They don't have the suggested cranking amps that the H2 calls for, so I was wanting to do the Red/Yellow setup with isolation and it looked like it would fit like those pics but I was going to try to fab a tray myself.

So, the question is where?
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:45 PM
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What are the 3 ways? There is the Wrangler setup that Drty has, but that uses smaller capacity batteries (plus I can't use the yellow optima I already have). I have contacted a few dual optima tray manufacturers to see if I can get one custom made to fit but never got anywhere. There was one that might would fit but I never heard back from them.

I am not fond of running a 4 gauge cable the length of the truck to put a battery in the back. Too many opportunities for a short while off-road.

Also, there is little to no room under the hood. Ideas?
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:35 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That tech should be fired for incompetence. Just because the "eye" shows green (they don't anymore, ACDelco took it out it was so misleading) doesn't mean the battery would pass a load test. The proper procedure would be a Midtronics battery tester sequence. Insist upon a load test and ask to see the results, it comes as a printout showing the various readings under load.

Dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thank you! I had gone in for a different problem and didn't want to get into it at that point, but you have some great advice, and I will use it. I will actually take it to my tire guy for the load test, then return to the dealership to see what they say. Our dealership is new, but the tech is not. He's young, and I hope he can get better over time, not stuck in the "bring it back mentality." Hopefully a new manager will help, too.
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Old 06-08-2005, 05:54 PM
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Taz,

From memory now, so please give me leeway. 14" is tight from the wheel well to the radiator hose. 10.5" is OK from the fuse box to the front but there is a hump under the fuse box that comes down to where the battery sits now.
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:27 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Rocks:
My bettery recently went dead. I couldn't believe it. I had to get a friend to jump it to start. At the dealership, for a check engine light one week later, the tech just looked at the window on top and said, "looks okay now." From what I remember a good battery will read 13.4V (or so). A battery that needs replacing will measure 11.8V.( or so)
Never heard of an Optima Yellow Top before. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That tech should be fired for incompetence. Just because the "eye" shows green (they don't anymore, ACDelco took it out it was so misleading) doesn't mean the battery would pass a load test. The proper procedure would be a Midtronics battery tester sequence. Insist upon a load test and ask to see the results, it comes as a printout showing the various readings under load.

Dave
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Old 05-26-2005, 02:01 PM
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One upright, one sideways. Shot from passenger side.
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