Electric Fans

[Xenowulf]

I have a 05 SUT and I'd like to install an electric fan. Can you use GM parts from the new 2500s. Or is using the Flex-A-Lite Monster 282 the only way.

I spoke to a Flex-A-Lite rep and he said that GMs only have a few number of different radiators and if the H2 radiator is the same length as a other GM one, the fan shroud should have the same mount points. Is this right?

[kdio]

Fubar00
I talked to their tech department. Sorry, I don't remember any names. I have not updated the program yet because I asked them to update based on 4.56 gear which are being installed in a couple of weeks. I am not sure what other changes they have made to the program, they mentions running a richer fuel curve.

Mine runs hot when I climb hills regardless of the outside air temperature and when the temperature is above 85 degrees.

My friends H2 has similar modification and does not get hot at all, so who knows.

I even did flow test on the stock radiator to see if there was any blockage, but everything check out. I think the new radiator will finally solve my problems.

[H2 Bill]

That's pretty much what mine does, but it just started that this summer. It's mainly going up grades and I don't have to be under boost with the S/C for it to do it... so I don't think that the S/C is the source. I am thinking of going to a larger radiator that Breathless sells that is supposed to be a direct fit.

[Fubar]

Jonathan,
So long as you or whoever installs the fans follows the instructions and mount the fan controller where the instructions say everything will work fine. The Flexlite rep's advice about the 290 in my opinion is fine. Although if as has been pointed out previously you do water crossings you may want to consider the fans from the GM2500 I believe they have a ring that connects the fan blades which would make them more durable when forging water. Make sure to install the cut off switch for the fans in the cabin so that you can switch them off if needed. flexlite also has a fan with a connecting ring, I don't know the model number.

The custom controller you spoke of on a previous install was this something you built or something that is commercially available?

I believe I'm having trouble with my controller or its install location so I'm looking for options. Right now I'm leaning towards simply relocating the controller I have but if a more robust unit is available I would like to have some info about this.

Thanks

[kdio]

H2 Bill, I am picking up my H2 tonight. They installed the 4.56 gears with a front e locker, the Ron Davis Radiator, and a new 180 degree thermostat. I will keep you posted on the results.

that run up toward 225 is normal, from all the techs i've talked to. pulling a 21' camper up over the trinity nat'l forest from redding to the coast gave the temp gauge a workout. even with rpm in mid 4k range for almost a mile in 95 degree heat i never went above 235. passed an H1 pulled over, towing nothing, with his hood up and steam floating out of the engine compartment. even with nothing being towed, mine goes up over 210, then drifts back. i don't worry about it anymore, i just keep an eye on it.

[MUH_HUM]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Xenowulf:
If I get on the freeway and keep it at 90-95
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was going to ask where the hell you live where you drive 95. Then looked @ your location. LA. Makes sense. I used to drive the 210 thru Pasadena and could NEVER figure out how I could do 85+ in the left hand lane and ALWAYS some bastard needed to pass me. Jesus.

[Fubar]

Kdio,
Great to hear you have a dealership that is willing to work with you.
In Northern Ca (I'm guessing) I doubt you guys see many 120 degree days so you'll probalby never expereience any over heating issues but your truck should be all set to tow anything up the side of a mountain.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by kdio:
H2 Bill, I am picking up my H2 tonight. They installed the 4.56 gears with a front e locker, the Ron Davis Radiator, and a new 180 degree thermostat. I will keep you posted on the results. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[H2 Bill]

No, actually it works better than any car we have ever had! I have several friends that have H2's that live here in the desert and there's work extremely well too. Mine is an '03 with build #913. It's 113* now and working great like it always does. My Suburban on the other hand takes a good 15 mins. to cool down in the same weather...go figure. If you are ever in town feel free to come and have a ride.

[kdio]

I have been having over heating issues for quite some time. I installed a 180 degree thermostat, aux. transmission cooler, checked the clutch fan to make sure it was working properly. Finally, I called Magna Charger and they offered to reprogram my ECU, and also recommended buying a larger radiator. They said a lot of H2 are having heating issues with the stock radiators. They recommend Ron Davis Radiator, they have a direct replacment for the H2.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm

I ordered the radiator, but I will not get it for another week. I will let you know how it works.

[NU2H2]

Fubar00,
Its commercially available as mentioned by someone else its from Nelson performance and it uses a blank ecu output trigger and the fan turn on is controled by the ecu not that rediculous probe stuck in the coolant stream much better IMHO.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Fubar00:
Jonathan,
So long as you or whoever installs the fans follows the instructions and mount the fan controller where the instructions say everything will work fine. The Flexlite rep's advice about the 290 in my opinion is fine. Although if as has been pointed out previously you do water crossings you may want to consider the fans from the GM2500 I believe they have a ring that connects the fan blades which would make them more durable when forging water. Make sure to install the cut off switch for the fans in the cabin so that you can switch them off if needed. flexlite also has a fan with a connecting ring, I don't know the model number.

The custom controller you spoke of on a previous install was this something you built or something that is commercially available?

I believe I'm having trouble with my controller or its install location so I'm looking for options. Right now I'm leaning towards simply relocating the controller I have but if a more robust unit is available I would like to have some info about this.

Thanks
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[Fubar]

Kdio,
thanks for the info.

How did you get Magna Charger to agree to a new program or custom programming? I have always believed that they simply installed a generic control program and that was only at the time of purchase of one of there units.

At 110 unless you're pulling a trailer you'll probably not have much trouble if any at all with the cooling system on the H2. I had a couple of issues at or arround 110 but only because the fans were not comming on at the correct point or not until the engine was too hot for the fans to cool down. The 2-3 weeks we had temps at or arround 120 I couldn't drive 3 blocks without the truck starting to over heat.

Hopefully your set up will be the answer for you. I'm still waiting for Towbin to do something... Anything...They've had my truck for 8 weeks now.

[ARH1956]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2 Bill:
Mine has the OE fan and the Air Conditioner has always frozen you out even on a day like today when it is 113 and climbing! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Sitting still idling @ 113*+ your A/C freezes you out?

[H2 Bill]

kdio, good to hear that you are done! Let me know how it works out. Mine is running cooler with the new radiator (BeCool) and am looking forward to testing it this weekend. It's supposed to be 106 today....

[Fubar]

Question for those who may know or have an idea.

From my sig line you can see that I have a SC installed the inner cooler for the SC is located behind the front grill and in front of the radiator. The flex-lite series 290 fans are in place of the stock fan.
Coming home today the ambient air temp was 113 and the trucks temp got up to 230-240. I pulled over and the fans were running so I continued home. Even after getting clear of stop and go traffic the trucks temp only dropped to 215 and remained there the rest of the way home, the fans were still running when I got home.
I guess I'm just concerned that the higher engine temps may be causing problems. I don't have any over heating issues when the ambient air temp is 80-100 but when it gets up to 113 and above I seam to be having a warming issue. so long as the fans run the truck is not over heating. I know +5 or 10 degree is probably not causing a problem. 230 and above has got me worried.

So my question, sorry that got a bit long winded. My question: Is there anything short of removing the SC and the inner cooler that I can have the service folks at the dealership try in an effort to get the operating temp of the truck back to its normal of 210? I've already been told that going to a 160-thermostat will not work or will cause problems during the winter months because the truck will never reach a normal operating temp.

My fear is that the inner cooler is blocking a good portion of the air trying to reach the radiator because of the H2's limited front grill area. Will changing to a different type of radiator help? Possibly going larger with the radiator? I don't know if that is possible the one that is there is a pretty tight fit as it is.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

[Xenowulf]

It's not the over heating for me. Its just getting that clutch fan out....

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Fubar I would recommend 2 things.
go to the 2500 HD fans. They move way more air than the flex do. I have the 295 on My Silverado which is next to the largest they make unless You have the 37" radiator and My OEM electric move so much more air it is no comparison. Both are twin fan same size it is just that the shroud system on the OEM fit so perfect like the mechanical no leaks like My flex and the fans on the OEM are a little farther back from radiator it seems which helps. The next thing is get that 160 degree t-stat from Ligenfelter but, I think Hypertech has them now. In Vegas You have no concern for not running hot enough ever, that i can think of. I have been there in December to watch my Hogs get the butts kicked by UNLV in a supposedly cake walk. But, no one seemed to info Our nuckle heads that they could not stay out till 4 am ever morning and even remember how to play ball. they did not even set a curefew sooner than 1am the night before game. Coach Nutt caught it bad when they got back. The only thing that bothered me was that UNLV whipped them like yard dogs and played hard and earned it. I was settng there proud for them all of Us saying they came and knocked Our big guys on the cans and beat them straight smash mouth with that being Our style of ball at the time, We were so impressed with that quarterback and then fans from the school kids came over to Our small side and started cursing and throwing beer etc. I took in the fact they were kids but, I have been at allot of games where fans are horrible and SEC is the worse sometimes but, I was shocked. Then allot of the older guys came over and sat with us and apologised and showed real class. I go there allot and everyone is always so nice and that just fooled me. the whole time We stayed everyone even out on the street were so nice and even called the Hogs with us it just shocked us. When we went to the Cotton Bowl the next Year and lost 9 to 3 We thought man We are going to hear from OU during as they sit everyone everywhere there and before and after they were so nice and We we equal in fan numbers and We new We did not deserve to be there playing them but, hey it makes money for the program. We shocked Ourselves by playing that close and they congradulated us and said We should have one which We should have and even they said so but, i told them they were to kind that they played down to Our level.

Well sorry just thinking but, I Love Vegas and having been there in the winter cold is not a problem I would think unless you travel where it could be of cousre. I ran around here last winter at 10 to 40 degrees which is more than normal and had no problems. So I would cool it down as something is going to give in your situation. You could add a second oil cooler with fan also which is easy and does not cost much. Go to flex and look on there website they have many extra tranny coolers anything to add extra cool to your rig. You could look into a larger aftercooler but, the radiator i do not think is the answer here. You could have a t-stat sticking that is common on even a brand new rig of any make. I really hope You address this not just the temp for heat sake but for detonation. At those temps You could preignite and blow something out the bottom. It concerns more for that reason as any even at 5 lb boost. Heat is what causes it to happen. At the heat if you can buy higher than 93 octane until you solve it I would even at 5 LB of boost. I'm running 12 and even in summer at 100 here do not get over the 190 to 200 very rarely and only if i have made about 4 to 6 runs at WOT. Just get a t-stat in for summer now and electric fans. Then look at extra cooling but, at least you elimenate the t-stat sticking idea.
Hope it gets better feel free to PM Me if you like or somebody.

TAZ

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Use the fan from the 2500 GM truck and go to Nelsonperformance.com and get the wiring harness that allows You to hook it in to the ecm and program with software to turn off and on. Can get fan at Eadsperformance.com.

You will have to cut the metal tranny lines and use rubber because they will not relocate enough for the fan shroud to work.
Holes to mount do not match and You have to drill holes for the new shroud and use the new shroud holes to mount.
Add rubber washers between the shroud and core support and the shroud and the flat washer between the new bolt head and the shroud.
It all works great and You should be able to find more info on this from Me and maybe another by doing a search in find.

I should mention this was done on My 2005 H2 SUV and assume that it will work on SUT. have not looked at them to confirm myself.

TAZ

[kdio]

H2_SUT_SC,
No they did not do this work. I had S&H 4 wheel drive do the Gear change with a front elocker, and they changed the radiator for me. Hummer of Sacramento would have done the radiator, but Miles (head mechanic) suggested S&H for my gear change and since the truck was there had them do the work.

I have Hummer of Sacramento do pretty much everything on my H2. They have been great to work with.

[Fubar]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Fubar, the instrcutions don't address three issues that i cam across; drilling out the top bracket slots to make them bigger, relocating the oil cooler lines and trimming the side brackets. I haven't finished yet, but so far those three things need to be addressed outside of the instructions provided. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Phil,
Sorry to here you are having troubles with the install of your fans. I had the dealership do the fan install when the SC and header were going on they had the truck for a week. I'm certain they had the same issues with the fans as you are experiencing. They install around 10 units a week or so I'm being told so they have probably figured out a way to stream line the install or they've simply tooled up to address the issues. I've read the flexlite instructions and you are correct they don't address any of the issues you have pointed out. I am surprised to here about the oil lines. I had spoken with a flex-lite rep on the phone before deciding to have the dealership do the install with the other stuff being done to the truck and the didn't say anything about relocating or extending oil lines. They made it sound like it was a simple drop in install. Hearing about your troubles only confirms my decision to have someone else do the install I'm not the most mechanically inclined person on the planet.

Keep plugging away you'll get it done.