Just bought 12 volt fridge on e bay

[fourfourto]

I should have it in about a week.It should fit behind console with room to open rear cup holder.Rear right seat can still fold down,I have to make some kind of removable mount(velcro) for folding down left side.Holds 8 cans it has a double insulated glass door.I might paint the back part black.Hopefully it will mount were I want otherwise I will put in cargo area.Probobly tap in to 12 volt outlet so its on while driving and 20 minutes after.I will post pics when I receive it.
12 volt fridge on ebay

[fourfourto]

Are there any rap wires in the back were the trailering wires are ?
Does the power wire for the back outlet run up into the dash were I can cut wire and splice into rap wire making the rear outlet rap?

[fourfourto]

Thanks f5fstop Im going to see about getting a timer relay first maybee the time could be longer like 1hr or 2 hrs.

I could make things easy by just hooking up to a rap ciruit than a relay wouldnt be needed.
I just want the fridge to shut off

I made a note like always of the wiring.its good to have reference for future projects.I sugest everyone do the same.Ill see if pep boys or auto zone has the timer im going there saturday for the 12 outlet for under the seat.Think ill need some velcro too.Maybee ill sit it in the truck tommorow and get some pics .

[fourfourto]

Im gonna work on it tommorow any ideas on last posts?

[fourfourto]

Also f5 I searched rear panel removal all I got is info on you e mailing to others could you e mail it to me at fourfourto@yahoo.com I think Ill put a 12 volt outlet under the one in the cargo area and have it hooked up to rap,
thanks

[fourfourto]

Useing the relay worked out good .I used B+ wire(in cluster under drivers side dash) same place for ground.
tapped into yellow wire of rear wiper so it would work with key and RAP.
The fridge chills,my wife went to work( 20 to 25 minute drive) and drinks were chillin.Good inexpensive fridge.
Thanks f5 for the help.
Using relays is a must and the way to properly install accessorys.

[fourfourto]

I guess the right socket is 30 amps because it also runs the cargo one.

Is there a way to tap into the dome light it has rundown protection after 20 minutes.Its better for the fridge than rap because rap goes of when you open and shut door if hooked up to dome circuit it would stay on for 20 minutes after leaving truck.

[fourfourto]

I think its going here in cargo area.Notice cord from net locked in to handle of fridge to stablize it.
Just need way to power using rap circuit so battery doesnt go dead and it will be on while driving.The manual says you can unplug and bring it with you and it will stay cold for a few hours

[fourfourto]

Damn, $35! I could get a couple dozen of those instead of one ARB

I thought you were being a wise a s s saying you could get 12 of mine for $35.00 wasnt sure about arb

This will hold 8 cans 6 liter capacity.Those ones you listed belong in a camper.

I want to leave it in all the time(stocked of course) It came in today but wifes got the h3 Ill mess with it on sunday.Might paint the white part black .

[DRTYFN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
I should have it in about a week.It should fit behind console with room to open rear cup holder.Rear right seat can still fold down,I have to make some kind of removable mount(velcro) for folding down left side.Holds 8 cans it has a double insulated glass door.I might paint the back part black.Hopefully it will mount were I want otherwise I will put in cargo area.Probobly tap in to 12 volt outlet so its on while driving and 20 minutes after.I will post pics when I receive it.
12 volt fridge on ebay </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cheap POS. Those only cool a certain amount in relation to the ambient temperature. So if it's 100 degrees your drink will be 60 degrees, but if it's 50 it won't do much.

Should have stepped up and bought an ARB. I've had frosty beers on 100 degree days.

[f5fstop]

That is why, I believe I have been suggesting a relay to prevent any problems with blowing fuses, or even worse, cooking the vehicle.
The current draw to activate a relay is minimal, the current draw for the cooler is not.
Not sure what else I can say; other than if you want to wire in a large current draw device safely in to the vehicle, a relay is required.
And it is not a bad idea to install an inline fuse for the power circuit to the cooler, right where you tap into at the relay.

Many of the off-road lights people are installing have a current draw of 7-9 amps, and they are using relays with fuses to control the circuit. Your cooler has a nominal draw of 3.5 amps; therefore, it could draw more.

[f5fstop]

Please take some photos of it in the vehicle, if you could. Will be getting something like this before heading to the desert later this year.
Will you be wiring it into the RAP circuit? Since the accessory plugs are hot at all times, so if you leave it plugged in, it could drain the battery

[f5fstop]

It's the yellow wire going into the switch. There is a 15 amp fuse on that particular circuit, so it would be safe to run the cooler or the heater BUT ONLY if the rear wipers were not on. If they were on, and the cooler, I would almost bet you would blow a fuse. When a wiper starts up out of park, it requires quite a power surge, then levels off, and the rear wiper is intermittent so it parks every sweep.
But remember that, it should be ok.
But it would not be hard to run to an auto supply and pick up a relay.
Connect the yellow wire to the coil side of the relay, and the other other side of the coil connect to the black wire at the switch. The coil will be energized anytime the RAP circuit is powered up.
Then run a power wire from the accessory plug next to the switch, to the relay, and run a wire from the relay back to the location in the rear panel.

I'll send off the removal procedure.

[KenP]

http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/ARBaccessories/

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> ARB 33 Quart Freezer/Fridge
The smallest of the three ARB Freezer/Fridges, the 33 quart model is a great choice for those who go out on day trips and the occasional weekend outing. Its 33 quart size allows you to carry your drinks, sandwiches and snacks and keep them ice cold.

ARB 33 quart Freezer/Fridge - $664.95

ARB 42 Quart Freezer/Fridge
The intermediate size ARB Freezer/Fridge, the 42 quart is the fridge to choose if you go need more storage space for larger groups or for longer trips away from civilization. This Freezer/Fridge has almost the same size footprint as the smaller 33q Freezer/Fridge, but gets its additional capacity through its extra height. This fridge stows well in the area created by folding down the short side of a Discovery's back seat. It also fits well when mounted sideways between the wheel wells of a Defender.

ARB 42 quart Freezer/Fridge - $734.95

ARB 63 Quart Freezer/Fridge
The largest of the three Freezer/Fridges, the 63 quart is the fridge to choose for those who go on long expeditions or travel with large groups. It's cavernous 63 quart capacity means that you can carry more food for those extended trips away from civilization. The footprint of the 63 Quart Freezer/Fridge is a bit larger than that of the smaller two models, but this is more than offset by its ability to carry significantly larger volumes of food.

ARB 63 quart Freezer/Fridge - $979.95 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>$35 X 19 = $665 33 quart ARB
$35 X 21 = $735 42 quart ARB
$35 X 28 = $980 63 quart ARB

I think I'll go the route you did.

[fourfourto]

If you got a timer with 2 hours, then the accessory power would be ok.

If I hook a timer relay to accessory outlet in back how would it reset if the outlets always hot.

The rap wire in tailgate is it live when trucks running or switched by wippers? color ?

Im a pain in the ass

[fourfourto]

I noticed I could use the + wire in cluster under wheel to power fridge after relay instesd of taping into the accy outlet.Also using that cluster for the ground.

[f5fstop]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Just wire in the coil side of the relay to the dome lamp </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Were is the dome light wire. At the dome lamp.
I would tap into one of the orange wires going to the footwell courtesy lamps. Checking the wiring diagrams, and on the H3, the rundown protection is not controlled through a relay as in other vehicles (I keep forgetting the H3 is one of the vehicles using the newer style BCMs.)
The BCM actually supplies the power directly to the courtesy lamps versus power a relay as in other systems. This reinforces a relay should be used.
In this system, not only does the BCM supply the direct voltage for the lights, it also supplies the ground switch to turn each one on depending on switch input. Therefore, I highly suggest a low resistance relay. If you wired the cooler right into the circuit, the BCM might sense the extra current flow and pop a code, thinking there is a short to power in the lines.
So, I would recommend splicing off one of the green wires from either footwell courtesy lamp, attaching this to the coil side of the relay to power up the relay.
Then for the switch side of the relay, tap into one of the orange wires going to an accessory plug. (If it was me, right where I splice into the accessory wire, I would also install a 10 amp fuse, this is just a safety feature I like to do when tapping into wires. If a fuse is installed, install the fuse as close to its power supply as possible-in this case the orange wire at the accessory plug.)
Then run a wire from the relay to under the seat, and you can also get a ground under the seat too.
This is small fridge its also a warmer.

On fridge is listed Nominal current draw 3.6 amps fuse rating 10 amp.
How can I tell if dome circuit can handle the load?

Any aftermarket auto shutoff options?Yes, they do sell electronic timer relays.

I was thinking of putting a 12 volt socket under seat instead of hard wiring it.Rather tap right in but if I need a relay Ill put one in.I have one installed for my airhorn.

I could just plug it in but I dont like the looks and trouble with unpluging all the time. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[f5fstop]

Very good points, and yes you are right.
One, the relay would never reset with the accessory power.
Two, the RAP feed to the rear wiper is via the switch on I/P; I wasn't thinking correctly (do I ever? Besides it's FRIDAY )
So, it appears the closest and easiest feed for RAP power is off this switch, since it is very easy to remove that center I/P trim panel.

[f5fstop]

Rear wiper works on the RAP circuit, and pretty sure it runs down the left side of the vehicle since that is the hinge side.
Most timer relays I have seen will set their internal time when power is lost. They reset when power is applied again. So, a RAP circuit might be good for this application.
But if using an electronic timer relay, I would just recommend tapping into the accessory plug circuit. Since the RAP goes off when the door is opened, that only gives you a max of 20 minutes if you remained in the vehicle.
If you got a timer with 2 hours, then the accessory power would be ok. But the final decision is yours.
Some of the first RAP circuits used by GM were used with timer relays that when ignition power was removed, they would stay powered up for a specified time. Eventually, GM migrated the control of a normal relay via the BCM. The BCM would power up a relay at start up, and turn it off twenty minutes after the power was lost, or a door switch indicated a door was opened.
Now, with the newer BCMs (like on the H3), the BCM operates the RAP circuit directly without any relay in the circuit.
Change is good...
Someday soon, you will see a VCM (Vehicle Control Module) a module that will control all the required electronics on the vehicle; a combination of the BCM, PCM, Brake Control Module, and all other modules. It will be programmable to handle either an auto or a manual, with or without ABS/TC/Handling. It might even incorporate XM and Onstar.

[fourfourto]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">So, it appears the closest and easiest feed for RAP power is off this switch, since it is very easy to remove that center I/P trim panel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
So if I use the wire on the rear wipers at the switch I wouldnt need any relay.
Do you know color otherwise Ill use a test light.
souldnt be hard to run a wire from dash to cargo area.
It has to go in cargo area in back seet doesnt seem to work out as shown in picks.


I wasn't thinking correctly (do I ever? Besides it's FRIDAY )