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06-25-2005, 02:33 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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I know you all have been been over this but I cant seem to find it  Who do you think makes the best lift kit. I want to run 38 or 40 inch tires 14.50 or 15.50 wide
Thanks Tim
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06-27-2005, 02:47 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tonka61:
so what your saying is that the stock hieght of the h2 with a little bigger tire isn't good enough you ass. the h2 was calculated just perfect ass. you f**k ass paragon. you need to pull your head out of your ass and do your homework! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Good enough for what? Good enough for your ass? Maybe.
If "the h2 was calculated just perfect" why are you suggesting that it needs "a little bigger tire" to be "good enough."
Sport, just move on. This thread is above your pay grade.
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06-27-2005, 01:50 PM
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Phil:
I believe you! without doubt.
40's are too big for a 6" lift with full articulation.
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06-28-2005, 12:34 AM
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I will post some more info soon.
Would you guys with the Fabtech do me a favor?
Measure the distance between your front tires. Just pick a tread on each side and then use the same treads on the rear and meaure that.
The last Fabtech 6" I had in the shop has the rear wheels two inches less wide than the front wheels.
I need to know if this is standard for the kit or my client had a real bad install? I suspect that the replaced front spindles/knuckles widen the front end?
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07-01-2005, 11:20 PM
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How right you are PhilD---road driving is one thing--off road is another.
Here is a shot of the front end of my black H2--a 12" lift with another 3" with the tires on.
Ths front shocks have a 12" throw--but if I was off roading, I would have had them made differently.
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07-02-2005, 07:27 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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sorry i dont have a pic of a more challenging obsticale,  but i have no rubbing problems. and to answer the question posed by jackass its a fabtech 6" with nitto mud grapplers 40x15.50 on a weld evo slingblade 22X9.5.
Thanks
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06-29-2005, 11:47 PM
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Phil:
To answer--the adjusters are easy and an alignment is also easy---I set them for 3 degrees positive caster--the max the adjusters will let me.
The FTS kit comes with a stock diameter front drive shaft using a CV joint just like Fabtech.
The BulletProof kit does not--their belief is that you can build them locally for the same price or cheaper since there is no mark up-----on their 12 inch kit both front and rear driveshafts need to be lengthened so I do have them built locally--beefed up, balanced, and use better U joints--I use a CV joint in front. I have a guy who builds them for all types of race cars and he is a pain in the ass as a person but a real pro.
When I have drivshafts made, I increase the front diameter since the extra cost of the diameter is minimal--it is the assembly, balancing, and U joints that cost--the shaft size is nil.
On heim joints--there are various grades available and thet are usually not used on the street since they do wear out fairly quickly--the cheaper the faster.
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06-27-2005, 01:55 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Hey PhilD what tires you got on yours are they 13.50 or 15.50
Thanks Tim
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06-27-2005, 06:47 PM
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Sorry HGW. Try to continue and ignore the side stuff. I hate seeing good information get drowned but I hate liars and idiots giving out bad info like this tonka guy worse.
Please hang in there and provide the info. Your experience is invaluable.
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06-28-2005, 11:50 PM
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Pic with upper control arm.
Note stock tie rod---is replaced now with a stronger rod and heim joint.
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06-28-2005, 10:01 PM
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Since there has been some interest in lift kit types, I thought I would pass on this pic as an explanation.
I will call theses kits non-commercial kits--as opposed to Fabtech or Rancho. Others on here have the kits I am about to describe.
The pic here shows a FTS, 6.5" lift. With these systems, the upper conrol arms are moved downward by the use of drop down brackets. There is cutting involved which makes the system hard to reverse if you want to sell the H2 without the lift.
The lower cage bolts to the existing H2 frame, lowering the lower control arm. The upper control arm is then bolted into the drop down brakets. This "Lowering of the upper and lower control arms, raises the H2 the 6.5 inches.
Note that the stock distance between the upper and lower control arms is maintained. Also the front sway bar retains it origional confiquration. The dual shock hoop mounts to the origional shock mount and to the origional upper control arm mounts.
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06-29-2005, 12:57 AM
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That is an aftermarket tubular control arm--stronger and better looking than stock.
You can use a stock upper control arm with the FTS package--they provide a weld on/bolt on bracket (I forget which) for the shocks--similar to Fabtech.
I just like the look of the tubular.
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06-29-2005, 11:16 PM
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HGW, the driver's side D-ring is crooked. 
Looks like you need a rope ladder to come out the back.
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06-27-2005, 06:32 PM
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Jackass:
I am getting out of this thread----I will send you stuff on your e-mail.
Lift kits, as said here, are a personal preference--for show or for off-road.
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06-29-2005, 06:11 PM
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Hey, cool. I just noticed the shocks mount to the upper control arm. Phil, I wonder if you could do a setup like HGW has there with the upper control arm and shock hoop and some King coilovers and then dump the torsion bars?
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06-27-2005, 02:09 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 57
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so what your saying is that the stock hieght of the h2 with a little bigger tire isn't good enough you ass. the h2 was calculated just perfect ass. you f**k ass paragon. you need to pull your head out of your ass and do your homework!
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06-29-2005, 05:26 PM
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Phil:
I will have all that info to you asap--need to retreive some pics and crop them.
JAS
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06-29-2005, 06:19 PM
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That would be a good question for a good engineer and then a discussion with Bret King of King Shocks.
Need to match the spring rate of the torsion bars(a torsion bar is just a straight spring!) with that of the coil overs. There is more to this---later though--must work now.
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06-29-2005, 07:00 PM
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Here is the formula for calculating the torsion bar spring rate.<UL TYPE=SQUARE>Spring rate (pounds per inch) = [(1,120,000) x (d^4)]/[(L) x (l^2)]
L = Torsion bar length
d = Torsion bar diameter
l = Lever arm length (distance from wheel centerline to torsion bar)[/list]
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06-29-2005, 12:42 AM
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Is that the stock upper control arm or an aftermarket one?
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