Winch Wiring / Electrical Question

[TheGoodHummerMan]

I am concerned about running the wiring for the winch to the front and rear of the H2 without any "protection". The power connection kit included a solenoid which controls whether power is either energized or cut off, but I was thinking that adding a circuit breaker might also be wise. Overkill maybe, but wise?

I found circuit breakers at the local marine store but the highest rated breaker is 150 amps. Does anyone know if this would be sufficient or will it trip whenever I use the winch?

Thanks...

Ed

[TheGoodHummerMan]

Thanks Don,

Had a battery melt-down once on a golf cart because of a short circuit problem... Battery didn't explode, thankfully... I've heard many a horror story regarding batteries exploding when using jumper cables, although I've jumped many a battery with no problems. Yet? Actually, I am going to adapt a heavy-duty set of jumper cables over for use with the Warn quick-connect... Connect the jumpers to the quick-connect, then to the dead battery, and then, from inside the H2, energize the solenoid with the remote switch... That should be about as safe as it can get?

Since the rear electric cables for the winch are official Warn products designed for just this use I'm fairly sure they will work fine with the Warn winch... I'd imagine that the winch motor will fail from excessive use before the cables would fail... I'm glad they were run inside the H2 frame rails --- they couldn't be much better protected, even if I hang the rails up on boulders, the cables powering the winch won't be damaged...

Ed

[TheGoodHummerMan]

I just looked and my winch draws 425 amps @ 9500 lb line pull. I guess that the 150 amp breaker would pop at anything over 2000 lbs line pull...

Dumb question for me to have asked... I was basing my question on the fact that the rear cable is listed at 175 amps. A whole different matter? But, come to think of it, what does that 175 amp rating mean. Obviously the cable can handle the winch which will be drawing up to 425 amps...

PhilD: My son just "helped" me install the rear cable on my H2. He used a fish tape, inserting it into the outboard-hole in the driver's side frame rail accessible behind the front wheel. After a bit of "fishing" the fish tape came out of the frame rail at the rear of the H2. He then attached both of the 2-gauge cables from the rear wiring harness and slowly pulled them back through the frame rails. The cables only hung up slighty a couple of times during the process. It "looked" like it wasn't too hard getting the cable ends worked out of the rail opening and after pulling the slack up, he routed the cables up into the engine compartment. After inspecting everything carefully --- I have to say that the installation couldn't be any neater. It does appear that the shorter, 20 foot, cable harness would have been more than enough. The 24-foot cables will need to be shortened and re-terminated to avoid having a giant roll of 2-gauge cable rolled up in the engine compartment... and I paid extra for that extra 4-feet of cable...

The solenoid disconnect kit came with the winch and cables and it looks like the entire assembly will have a neat & professional appearance. Now that I know that installing a circuit breaker is not an option --- all my son has to do is mount the inside switch for remotely energizing the solenoid. I plan on mounting the switch below the rear wiper switch, where other's on the forum have installed switches for fog lights.

Don: Hopefully the 9.5ti winch I am installing will warn me of overheating problems before I do a china-syndrome on my battery terminals...

Thanks for the info!

Ed

[Hummie2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Don: Hopefully the 9.5ti winch I am installing will warn me of overheating problems before I do a china-syndrome on my battery terminals <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

ED....

I wasn't trying to scare you but rather warn you that it doesn't take very long for things to get plenty hot @ 400amps. Also batteries at high rates of discharge give off large amounts of hydrogen gas and can explode if a spark such as a arcing terminal occur.

That temp indicator on the new winch is a great idea ( wish mine old winch had that feature). Lighten the load by rerigging with another snatch block like we discussed before if thing start to get warm. Most of the time actually a 150-200 amp or less draw is probably a more realistic figure. 400amps will only occur when the winch motor is really bogged down right before it stalls.

Don

[TheGoodHummerMan]

I am concerned about running the wiring for the winch to the front and rear of the H2 without any "protection". The power connection kit included a solenoid which controls whether power is either energized or cut off, but I was thinking that adding a circuit breaker might also be wise. Overkill maybe, but wise?

I found circuit breakers at the local marine store but the highest rated breaker is 150 amps. Does anyone know if this would be sufficient or will it trip whenever I use the winch?

Thanks...

Ed

[Hummie2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> I found circuit breakers at the local marine store but the highest rated breaker is 150 amps. Does anyone know if this would be sufficient or will it trip whenever I use the winch?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not big enough. Most winches will draw in excess of 400amps @ full load. 400 amps will melt the terminal out of a side post battery if left for very long. I never have seen an automotive breaker bigger than 150amps although there may be some.

Don

[Hummie2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> But, come to think of it, what does that 175 amp rating mean. Obviously the cable can handle the winch which will be drawing up to 425 amps...
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ed...

175 amp rating is a continous draw rating for the 2 ga. cable. It can handle 425 amps for brief intermittent preiods if allowed to cool sufficiently. Most battery cable will have a temp. rating of the max. temp that the insulation will withstand printed on the insulation every 6 inches or so. Usually 105 degree C. is pretty common on most cables.

Don