Battery problems continued...

[unaslob]

where do you fit a second battery. i have wanted to do a dual setup for some time. winching long pulls with the ignition off can really drain the battery quickly. does anyone have a procedure for doing this... or at least a spot.

unaslob

[Patriot]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Orbyog:
You could also get a "Battery Buddy" or something like it that will shut everything down if the current gets to low, then flip a switch for the reserve to start the truck. I have been thinking of getting one, it would be alot cheaper also. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good idea but I also have a winch. The dual set up would also help in that area as well.

[Patriot]

Well, my H2 spent three nights on a test unit to see if any modules "woke up" and drained my battery. My HVAC module woke up once but did not drain my battery. Dealer is going to replace just in case...

It appears that H2's may have modules that can wake up and put a drain on batteries. Further, they can wake up and get "stuck on"...or they can get stuck when you stop the engine. No rhyme or reason either....

The GM spec says they should shut down w/in 25 minutes after shutting off engine.

So...GM and I can chase this problem for ever. I see it as a weakness of the design and NOT very reliable.

So I may be leaning to a dual battery set up.

Drty, I spoke with Wrangler NW and they say the install is straight forward. Have you had any problems???

Can I do the following???: Run both batteries when driving around to make sure they both stay charged. Then, when I park, shut off one battery as a reserve in case a module wakes up and drains battery "A"??? Once I get in, try to start on single battery...if dead, switch in second battery??

[Hummie2]

here is a pic with the bumper removed, you can't see the winch or battery very well though.

[PARAGON]

I have thought about the back. I just worry about running such a heavy guage all the way to the back and it somehow short and start welding **** to the frame. I have the rear air and looked and there is definitely a place to put an optima back there because you can mount them upside down or sideways if needed.

Got any pics of your tank setup and where the disconnects are? I have been thinking about adding a compressor with a tank back there so you have true air and not the puffer that's used for the springs.

You could definately do that you just need a battery switch. It is a dial and you turn it from battery A to B to BOTH or to OFF. These are installed in most fire trucks and emergencey vehicles and most boats(that have a dual battery setup) If you leave it on both while driving it will charge both batteries then switch to battery A or B when turned off.

[Big Z]

Had a similar problem, turned out to be a Very corroded Positive battery cable, along with a bad battery.

[Hummie2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> And... how do you get to the clutch handle or untangle the line? Plus, isn't the Haas fairlead pretty exposed to rocks and, well, everything else? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
The clutch handle is the lever directly under the reciever.
Haven't had much problem hitting the fairlead yet- thats not saying it won't happen though, but I do have some pretty deep drag marks under the rear axle differential and the rear "D" rings however.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Have you considered putting a piece of 1/4" plate under it for protection?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yes, I had a piece cut to weld in under the winch when I built it, but left it off because I figgured it would be too hard to untangle a pinched line. A piece of 1/4 X 2 flat bar directly under the fairlead would offer some protection for the fairlead however. I will have to put that one on my to-do list, shouldn't take very long- thanks.

Drty... did you get those front mounts in to production yet? I am ready for a front mount soon, after I get heavier torsion bars installed.

[unaslob]

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unaslob