Dealer adjusted front torsion so that the vehicle is balanced

[H3slate]

I talked to the service manager at my dealer in Oregon and he said that they do not do the torsion bar adjustments. He said that they will not do anything that affects the stock ride quality. So I just did it myself. Easy to do like everyone else has said. I did two and a half turns and gained 1 in. in the front. The front end does settle a little, my initial measurement showed an 1 1/2 in. gain, I checked it again later and it was only an inch. I had an alignment and it wasn't off by much. It cost 40 bucks at the local tire shop. The ride quality was not affected too much, ride is a little stiffer, but not bad. It looks a lot better and I can't wait to put some 35's on.

[TxFireman]

To adjust the ride height of the vehicle by winding the adjuster bolt at the fixed [frame] end of the torsion bar does not add any more force [weight]to the pivot [control arm] end of the torsion bar, therefore the pre load is unaffected, hence ride quality and torsion bar life theoretically remain unchanged. Winding the torsion bar adjuster bolt is the same as installing blocks between the axle and Leif springs or a set of coil spacers; it simply moves the spring to a different position.

The reason the truck may ride a little stiffer is because of the new angle of the pivot [control arm]. As this angle [control arm to ground] becomesgreater, the pivot [control arm] exerts less force on the torsion bar effectively reducing the pre load.

Sorry, but I totally disagree with this.

It's not the same as putting a block between the axle and spring pack. Putting a block in between those 2 does not effect the springs rate, (like t-bar adjustments do, and does add lift (depending on how tall the block is). The t-bar adjustment does effect the rate, while creating lift. The downward suspension travel, stored in the t-bar, is used to provide the upward lift. That's why the vehicle goes up when you turn it. You are using the downward travel to push the truck up. So, if you had 3" of up travel, and 3" of downward travel, and you use 1" of the DT to lift the truck, then you are only left with 2" of DT. This will equate to a different suspension ride quality. The article says that only the angle is changed, and not the rate of the t-bars. Not true, the reason the angle has changed is because the truck went up with the adjustment... why else would it change? Why would the truck go up? If that idea was correct, and only the angle of the control arm changed, then the t-bar would drop down at the end in question. The truck goes up becuase the load on the t-bar is altered to take away from the downward travel, and create lift with it. Why is it stiffer? because the spring rate has been altered.. not becuase the control arm is operating at a different angle.

Now with all that said, I'm not going to sit here and say that you should not adjust your t-bars. I am saying, however, that it does come with a price. The amount of the price depends on the amount of lift you choose to gain from it. I would not attempt to gain more than 1" max, myself. Monor adjustments may cost you nothing more than a slightly firmer ride. Too much lift will cause premature wear on the CV's and other front end components. In the long run you are better off getting a quality suspension system for the lift, if you need more. T-bar adjustments are for very minor gains, and are not for a full on lift kit. I know everyone would like to think that it's this magical nut that can be turned, and lift the front end, without paying the big bucks to the lift designers. But, let's face it folks, it's not that easy.. there is a reason for the lift/suspension kits. In the end, you have to ask yourself if you spent all this money on this vehicle, only to turn around and skimp on something as important as the suspension.