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Thanks for the kind words AND right back at ya!!
Your right....as much as I re-read and edit my writing, some stuff slips by: it's a front-locker that I'm looking to get!
Just some additional thoughts. I've posted the similar inquiry on the H2ml and one person responded in reminding me that the traction control needs two things: 1) you must not be "on" the brakes at all (this foils the computers ability to sensor stuff) and 2) the rpm's/gas must be kept fairly level for a bit of time also for the computer to sense stuff.
You know what's funny....here I sit in my comfy office all calm and collect just thinking about the situation....yet at the time it was happening, there were two spotters giving me orders from outside, one guy in the vehicle with me also contributing and about 7 other rigs watching/waiting to see how it would go. With all the people, exitement and adrenaline in the air....who knows what was going on. The only thing for sure going on was a LOT of fun.
I've got some research to do and some playing around. Maybe I will jack the thing up, put various wheels in the air and play with it in my driveway.
Another thought comes to mind: the rock garden was so turbulent that I wanted to creep through it. One issue I was watching others deal with was this: they'd have to get over an object and would need to apply gas until they basically built-up enough "umph" until the vehicle almost lurched upwards. Sometimes they would almost launch upwards and come back down again to a loud crunching noise, or they'd almost over-shoot the rock and lose the opportunity to pivot or redirect towards the next direction.
To combat this 'lurching' I incorporated some braking. By using a Brake-throttle-modulation I would ascend these rocks gracefully, smoothly and with control....creeping along instead of jolting. Trust me...without control the 6,000 pound H2 becomes a marshmellow wobbling drunkedkly across the rocks crushing and grinding boulders as it stumbles. Usually BTM is used for creating a locker-effect, but in this case it was more for a cushioning stablizer effect. I would just apply light braking in conjuntion with gas (less brake as gas came on, more brake as I came off the gas).
ANYWAYS....it was pointed out to me that braking screws up the traction control system...so maybe this is where I went wrong. Whew....too long a post!
That quick coupler idea sounds neat. I would have not thought of that one myself. I have a small metal lathe/milling/drilling machine combo in my shop at home so that might be a project I can run off when I find some time. The rear of the H2 looks like it would be easy to do and fast to disconnect as its right out in the open. Where did you get your JKS Quick Disconnect Links and do you know if they have a website?
Thanks, Don
I have enjoyed this thread very much and it has certainly given lots of food for thought. Both you guys, Steve and Mike, are very experienced 4 wheelers and are willing to share your experience and knowledge with others less experienced. This is truly what makes "Wheelin" and this forum so enjoyable.
I have purchased a 6 disc CD "SI2000" GM Service Manual Set. When it arrives I plan on giving the front axle section some "very close scrutiny." I also plan on buying a front E-Locker when they become available. I most likely will install it myself and will post detailed pics of the installation if I do. Not that too many others would do the job theirself, but they might like to see what is involved in the process of installing it.
I am also thinking about some way to make the swaybars with a quick disconnect featue. This would help keep our suspension more complient with the terrain off-road and keep the wheels on the ground, instead of in the air. What do you think? Give me some input.
Don
Another thing to figure out is what to do with the swaybar once it's disco'd. On Jeeps, you can just tuck it up and out of the way. Doesn't look really possible with he H2 setup.
I have another suggestion though, after seeing the pic. Most setups I've seen have the swaybar bolted to the frame, and the links bolted to the axle, not vice versa like in the Hummer. It looks like it's just waiting to get snagged on something, hanging below the axle like that. What I would consider doing is removing the swaybar altogether before you go on a wheeling trip. Ubolt the 2 bolts per side that hold it to the axle, and unbolt the upper links from the frame.
"Mike...when I was very serious about buying a Grand Chickedee, I was looking at the 2001 and wanting to lift it a bit and add larger tires. The salesman "looked into it" and came back telling me that the quadra-drive can not be lifted...it was some kind of special 4x4 system and not like the previous 4x4's. Now I find out different...just goes to show ya how you should get a 2nd opinion before taking anyones word for much of anything. Hmmm...might want to get a 2nd opinion on that opinion too! hehehe"
Steve, just goes to once again prove my theory that car salesmen are for the most part idiots who have no clue about what they sell.
My advice to anyone looking into getting any kind of vehicle is always to find a BB such as this one and ask people who actually have one, and not listen to what the shyster car salesman has to say.
"Mike, I spent some time with a buddy of mine who is insanely into 4x4ing. According to him it is not an established fact that SFA is completely superior to IFS...it's definitely a debate and argued issue. The one point I do see is that when one wheel goes up, the other is pushed down...and that would reasonably make sense to offer some benefits. I wonder why it is that Hummer chose the IFS then...no doubt it cost more?"
Are baiting me here, Steve? Trying to get me into a debate?
Well, the H1 has IFS/IRS because it was a military design requirement. They wanted the underbody clearance that the IFS/IRS gives.
I'm sure in the case of the H2, it costs LESS than what SFA would, because the IFS setup is right out of the existing GM parts bin. GM does not make any vehicles with solid front axles anymore. They haven't since 1991, IIRC. I also think that ride quality was a big reason for the IFS. It's easier to make a good riding IFS than it is a SFA. Although Chrysler Corp SFA vehicle ride very nicely.
I don't want to get into that debate about what your buddy said, mostly because I'm way outnumbered here. I'll say this though, short of a purpose built, big $$ IFS system, stock for stock, the SFA is better for rock crawling. Maybe you don't like to rock crawl, but would rather blast through the desert at speed. In that case, IFS is better, and IFS/IRS even better yet.
It all depends on what you want to do with it.
Another thing to think about is that SFA is much easier and cheaper to modify for more height and travel than IFS.
My buddy with the '99 GMC is currently gathering parts and plans to torch out his IFS and swap in a solid axle. This is actually becoming a common swap, if that tells you anything.
JJ, glad to hear that you are getting alot out of these tech topics.
Like Steve said, the only stupid question is the one not asked.
I've been getting alot out of them too. I've really learned alot about the H2 in the few weeks that I've been here.
I'm glad that I can read these forums and have technical discussions like this, and not just read endless posts about which chrome grille guard is better and who makes the best 20" wheels.
[This message was edited by Mike97ZJ on January 26, 2003 at 10:49 AM.]
1997 Grand Cherokee TSi
It\'s got some lift, skids, and rock rails, among other things.
*member of the \"No Hummer Krew\"*
You would think (and it totally makes sense) that the removal of the sway-bar would free-up and essentially liberate each wheel from influence from the other wheel. In theory...but only in application would one really know the actual results. Sounds like your on the right track with making it removable Don....keep up posted!!! (inquiring minds want to know!).
Mike, I spent some time with a buddy of mine who is insanely into 4x4ing. According to him it is not an established fact that SFA is completely superior to IFS...it's definitely a debate and argued issue. The one point I do see is that when one wheel goes up, the other is pushed down...and that would reasonably make sense to offer some benefits. I wonder why it is that Hummer chose the IFS then...no doubt it cost more?
A front-locker is definitely on the list of "must-haves", that should truly make the H2 quite unstoppable. Wish they had made it with one!!
Mike...when I was very serious about buying a Grand Chickedee, I was looking at the 2001 and wanting to lift it a bit and add larger tires. The salesman "looked into it" and came back telling me that the quadra-drive can not be lifted...it was some kind of special 4x4 system and not like the previous 4x4's. Now I find out different...just goes to show ya how you should get a 2nd opinion before taking anyones word for much of anything. Hmmm...might want to get a 2nd opinion on that opinion too! hehehe.
My sides are all scratched up...that darn clear coat scrapes to a white color, and I don't want to buff repeatedly down to my paint...so I'm wondering what to do. I might have gotten a white H2 had I realized this was coming. weep weep weep.
H2 has a fulltime 4 wheel drive meaning that it is always in 4 wheel drive, usually in 4 High Unlocked Mode, meaning that the differential inside the transfercase is unlocked. This will let the front and rear driveshafts turn at different speeds as the vehicle goes around corners and over uneven terrain. If the vehicle were on a slippery surface like ice and the transfercase was unlocked as soon as one wheel lost traction the truck would not move were it not for the Traction Control/ Anti Skid System and the brake computer, just like when one wheel on a 2WD without posi traction looses traction. When the transfercase differential is locked in 4 High Lock or 4 Low Lock both driveshafts have to turn at the same speed as they are locked together inside the transfercase.
The transfercase can be seen in this picture behind the transmission (pretty big isn't it). BTW the thing on the frame rail with all the lines is the control for Anti Skid/ Trac Control.
Hope I made this explanation clear.
JJ
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