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Go Back   Hummer Forums by Elcova > Hummer H2 Discussion Forums > Technical Discussion and Customizing your H2

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  #1  
Old 01-11-2003, 09:52 PM
JCJ JCJ is offline
 
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Yup, removed all 3 screw and plate behind door (opening) handle. Then tried pulling on door trim panel holding it at the lower armrest.
I heared a few snapping sounds when the front part of the arm rest gave a little way, but still just too little compared with the loudness of the sound.
My question now is:
What includes "door panel".
IOW what comes off when pulled and comes loose after loosening the clips?
Does the panel include the arm rest (and switche[s]) and (upholstered) door bolster?
Thank you so much 4 your patience.
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2003, 07:07 PM
Kühl Carbon Kühl Carbon is offline
 
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Sorry, just reread your question and it seems you just want to remove the map pocket from the door trim panel. If you remove the panel from the sheet metal and filp it over, you will see where some tabs have been pushed through the panel to attach the map pocket. They will appear to be melted ... and that is the attachment method. Some work with a dremel should give you the ability to remove the map pocket with no visible damage to the front side of the door ....

.... keep in mind you will see several little slots where the tabs for the map pocket used to reside.

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  #3  
Old 01-11-2003, 07:16 PM
JCJ JCJ is offline
 
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I still would prefer to have some pictures with your otherwise very descriptive instructions, Kuhl.
Tried taking the door trim of today following your instructions, but stopped when I felt afraid I would be breaking something.
Too bad the Service Manual is still "out of stock" according to Helm Inc.
But that might easily mean, that it was never in print?
(http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=GMC&mk=GMC&yr=All+Years&md= Hummer+H2&dt=&module=&from=result&Style=&Sku=GMT03 N&itemtype=N&mscsid=D3B58D9RRGXH8L6AWH1AETLP4LL434 V1)
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Old 01-12-2003, 05:32 PM
Kühl Carbon Kühl Carbon is offline
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JCJ:
Now I don't need to take the panle apart after all... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I should come over and MAKE you disassemble your door now just to validate my directions . The thickness of the plastic doesn't have anything to do with the niose, but the attachment method should have been more robust ... the tabs should've been thicker and larger.

For noise, you should look into some adhesive backed felt available at any craft store. That is essentially what we would have used if GM had ponied up the money. It comes in a multitude of colors. If you can find an adhesive backed velvet, that would be okay to. It's just that the best of my experience says that the velvet will "shed" and the felt won't.

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Old 01-12-2003, 06:20 PM
JCJ JCJ is offline
 
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Okay, Okay, Kuhl, easy.
Get the next flight down here!
Guest house is vacant and available in turn for some more H2 insights.
And I DO appreciate your instructions.
Will look for self adhesive felt.
What about self adhesive suede?
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  #6  
Old 01-13-2003, 12:49 PM
JCJ JCJ is offline
 
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Self adhesive felt/carpet pads for the ones w/o rum pouch:

http://www.cornerhardware.com/hardware/iteminfo.html?action=iteminfo&item=039003094334&ca t_id=871

http://www.michellesrugbinding.com/s...ive-colors.htm (cinnamon will do nicely)
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  #7  
Old 01-12-2003, 12:51 PM
Kühl Carbon Kühl Carbon is offline
 
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Ah, I think I understand where my description is falling short now .

First, hinten, you are correct on all counts. Have at it ... you'll be fine

Second, "Door Panel" includes everything. The whole piece of trim.(substrate, armrests, bolster, swich plate ... everything).

JCJ, your mistake is that you are pulling on the middle of the panel. DO NOT DO THAT! You are correcet, you will probably break it. You need to remove the panel from around the edges ... the only fasteners in the middle of the panel are the screws. I would suggest starting at the upper rearward corner of the panel since it is the easiest place. After you remove the screws, simply put your fingers behind the black plastic strip on the top of the door and pull it straight away from the sheet metal ... it shouldn't take much effort. Then work your way around the outside edge of the panel, releasing each fastener as you go.

One last note ... and you can either do this before you begin to release the fasteners, or after. To be able to completely remove the panel (as opposed to pulling it away from the sheet metat 3 or 4 inches), you will need to pry up on the switchplare (it is just snapped in) and disconnect the harness. Also snap out the courtesy light. The electrical components will keep the trim :tethered" to the vehicle.

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Old 01-11-2003, 12:29 PM
TJ TJ is offline
 
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Whew !!! My DH's company may be sending him out to Aruba at some point in the future...so it's good to know that you use the good old fashioned Vicryl instead. Had me scared there for a minute!
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2003, 09:26 PM
hinten hinten is offline
 
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Not useless at all. That's the interior I want!
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2003, 01:16 AM
Kühl Carbon Kühl Carbon is offline
 
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Ooooo, that whole billet door thing sounds nasty. Quite a bit of work I'd say.

To remove door trim, remove the screw behind the handle. Remove the silver painted plastic plate the screw held on. you will find two more screws that hold the bracket for the pull handle (the leather wrapped one) to the door. Remove those. I believe there are 7 two stage plastic fasteners that simply hold the trim to the sheet metal. Your dealer or a body shop has a "special tool" they use to remove them. It is simply a skinny crow bar they wedge between the edge of the trim and the sheet metal and "twist" or "pry" the trim off in the attachment areas .... if you pry a little you can kind of "see" where the trim stays stuck to the sheet metal. Once you pop one or two clips, you can get your fingers in there and just pull the panel away from the door.

A MAJOR word of caution here. DO NOT pull on the top edge of the map pocket to remove the door. It WILL crack and cannot be repaired. It is heat staked (permanently attached) and cannot be repaired if broken. You will need to replace the whole door trim panel.

The clips, as I said, are "two stage". Half of the clip is designed to be removed with the trim and the other half is designed to stay in the sheet metal. Do not be alamed because it seems that the clips are "broken", they are not.

Simply reverse the operation to re-install. There are two molded in plastic locators on the back of the door that protrude quite far. Start both of these and all of the clips should find their home naturally.

The procedure is the same for both front and rear doors.

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