HID Headlights for your H2

[kodiakz]

Perfect HID bi-xenon for H2:

[md_sailor]

I will... with pictures

[Beastmaster]

Finally dug up some stuff on this. It's part code is the XE7R (for reflector).

Very nice. Very, very nice. Sad part - it's not out yet. The local Harley shop said that it's not coming out until later this month.

[VTSTOMPER]

ah poo.

I miss the Denali lamps (projection) I had in my sierra. I added a set of Hella ballasts with Philips Utilion bulbs (6000K). I was so happy with that set-up.

I then tossed some in my yoda, but there was tons of wasted light. (reflection)

I would like to do the H2 with some projections like others have done here, but I will wait on it. I have other things to do first!

You set-up looks good BTW Beastmaster!

[Mr. I - Man]

Riddle me this? If the projectors are so superior to reflectors. Why do the Baja buggy and Trophy trucks rock the reflector HID setup.

I don't see any projectors on those vehicles, you would think if they were a better light source they would use them. They would save a lot of space a weight.

[Beastmaster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Steve,
How does all this lumen stuff relate to candlepower. Putting on lights recently, I researched state laws for home and surrounding states and they all have statutes talking about 300 candlepower limits on all lights in operation. Isn't candlepower luminous intensity? How can you get from a manufacturers rating wattage and lumens ratings to candlepower accurately, or can you?

Basically, are these statutes ancient cruft or something that the states can actually prosecute you on? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's kind of crap. Here's the relationship.

Lumens is a definition as to how bright a light is. It's measured within a device called an "integrating sphere", and identical lights will have nearly identical lumen values.

Candlepower is a measurement of the amount of light intensity based upon a specific distance. It's also dependent on how focused the beam is and how far away your measurement tool is from the light source.

Candlepower figures are useful only when you have lumen figures to compare with it. For example:

You have a KC Hilite HID light that's pencil beam, and you have another KC Hilite HID light that's driving beam. The Pencil beam and driving beam both use the same D2S bulb, so both have the same lumen rating.

However, the Candlepower settings are different. Pencil gives you 3 million CP, the driving beam gives only 750k CP. The difference is the focus.

So CP really is how intense the light focus is given a specific area, Lumens is how bright the light actually is based on the bulb itself.


Correction - Pencil gives 600k, Driving gives 75k.

[PARAGON]

Unless you were doing the projector, clearly Beastmaster's setup is the best route.

[kodiakz]

The XD7 referenced above does.

[Beastmaster]

The more I think about these units, the more ideas I come up with.

Take this eBay special, and put the capsules into a PIAA 525, which is a dual beam H4 based lamp. Wire them up to give you the ability to turn on the high and low beams of the capsules (and their respective ballasts and ignitors) separately. If you did that, combined with ANY of the HID setups, you'll have:

HID Headlamps - 6000 lumens total
PIAA 525 HID mod low beams - 5000 lumens total
PIAA 525 HID mod high beams - 5000 lumens total.

That combination will then crank out 16000 lumens, in a controllable low beam/high beam/low and high beam auxilary light, with either low only HID reflectors or low/high projectors.

That amount of lighting is equal to 10 PIAA 520's putting out a mere 1500 lumens each (roughly).

All with only two auxiliary lights in the front. Nice, huh? And a total draw of about 17.5 amps. (35 watts per ballast x 6 ballasts = 210 watts of draw. Divide by 12. 17.5 amps is the draw). Compare that to 45.8 amps for the 10 PIAA 520's [(55w x 10)/12].

-Steve

[kodiakz]

Those are strange!!! All bi-xenons I have ever seen only have one burner in the bulb, and just flip up a motorized cutoff plate to allow more light out when the brights are turned on. I guarantee that those are not dot approved!!!

[W1N]

NJ H2,

would you provide the product number for those. Those like first real bi-xenons I'we seen around for H2.

Thanks!

[md_sailor]

Count yourself lucky! I went through 2 bulbs 1 ballast and one control unit as well as having water in the passenger headlight both times it rained in a 3 week period

[Beastmaster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Unless you were doing the projector, clearly Beastmaster's setup is the best route. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Oh - dumb question. Do you still have any pattern pictures of when you were running the X6024 Sylvania's?

-Steve

[Sportsdude]

Just checking for updates, thanks.

Anyone have these lights installed?
[/quote]

[Beastmaster]

Here's my take on it....

If you're going to spend the money on a HID Bulb/ballast upgrade, you're better off spending a few dollars more and upgrade the reflector assembly as well.

The HID Bulb/Ballast upgrade with the stock reflectors will work better than the stock bulbs. You will get some increased light on the road. Cost - the cost of the HID Bulb/Ballast combo. This combination WILL throw more light onto oncoming traffic.

If you did a HID Bulb/Ballast and Reflector upgrade with a DOT spec Hella H4 (Part # 70477), you'll get a really good effective light combination. Cost - the cost of the HID Bulb/Ballast combo and 80 bucks for upgraded DOT/SAE spec reflectors. This combo will not throw as much light onto oncoming traffic.

If you did a HID Bulb/Ballast and Reflector upgrade with a E-Code spec Hella H4 (Part # 40476), you'd get very good to excellent light coverage that nears dedicated projectors. Cost - the cost of the HID Bulb/Ballast combo and 80 bucks for the upgraded E-Code spec reflectors. This combo will throw the light on the road and up towards the right hand side for sign lighting.

Of course, going to something like the XE7 type projectors gives you the absolute best combination, since they have tuned glass that compliments and enhances the output of the bulbs. That's the most expensive combination.

Just my .02. I'm doing the E-code spec thing once I get some additional wiring upgrades done on my truck.

-Steve

[md_sailor]

Sorry about the Typo's Coffee has kicked in and my fingers are wandering.....too much caffene

[Beastmaster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by kodiakz:
Another </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yep, those are the XE7's. Those are the best replacements (like I mentioned - projectors are the best option). I think they run about 1200 bucks a set.

[Beastmaster]

Who makes those?

[Beastmaster]

Those look like the first generation Xenarc X6024's. They work, are DOT rated, but create a bit of a hot spot at the middle, with some peripherial light scattering on the side.

[NJ H2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by dochummer:
NJH2, how difficult were those HID's to install? If you didn't do it yourself, how much did it cost to do it? Thanks... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Actually they are plug and play with the exception of mounting the ballast right next to the headlight. I didn't do the retrofit or the install myself because we were not even sure if it could be done. I brought the H2 directly to HIDTECH in NY on a chance they could do it. So they took care or everything. The cost was 1 LARGE but well worth it IMO. I am not sure if they still charge that. The guys HIDTECH are great! I'm sure they would answer all your questions. My experience with them was terrific!