Next Project - Inverter and Dual Battery Setup...few questions.

[PARAGON]

Jesse,

If you want to make you a temp setup that you could put in the back for when you go to tailgate, it would be pretty easy.

Make you a little box that would hold an optima battery and an inverter, making sure it can ventilate. Have your outlets on the outside of the box and either rig you up a plug to plug into your trailer plug or run a wire from the trailer plug up into the rear to plug into.

There is a POS at the trailer plug designed to charge/recharge batteries on trailers. On your little box you could but wire a voltmeter to the outside so you would know when to crank the truck to recharge the battery.

[PARAGON]

Oh, and that would solve both of your problems.

[ree]

Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit.

[ree]

Forgot to mention that the Jump-n-Carry's hjave built in voltmeter so you can tell if they've got charge. Basically, it's paragon's design in a consumer package.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Hence my idea, but I don't think any have the durability nor longevity that something like a yellow top optima would offer. I had one that would not hold the charge only after a few discharges.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Hence my idea, but I don't think any have the durability nor longevity that something like a yellow top optima would offer. I had one that would not hold the charge only after a few discharges. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good to know.

We've got one for jumping. I've never even considered using it for inverter power even though the packaging suggests they can be used that way.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
It sounds like you want to:
- add a deep cycle second battery that you can rundown and recharge often
- use an isolator/switch/combiner/relay to prevent simultaneous discharge of both batteries when the alternator's not charging
- run the inverter and dish off of the second battery
- don't run anything off of the main battery withut the truck running as that would compromise the ability to start the truck </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That would be pretty easy, just use one deep cycle battery (Blue Optima) and regular one for cranking (Yellow or Red Optima) and have a solenoid between the + of the two batteries and wire to an ignition switched source and have your inverter wired only to the deep cycle.

As soon as you turn the ignition off, the deep cycle battery would be isolated. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

And if you want to beable to jump from the backup battery, use a hybrid battery like the yellow top, then wire a switch between an always on circuit and the solenoid. Flip this switch to manually connect the batteries.



Guys,
Who's actually done this custom-style on their hummer. A small group of us has discussed it, but not gotten around to actually doing it as far as I can tell

[Jesse]

Does Jump-N-Carry have a website? I had not thought of this option. I wonder if the bins in the back of the H2 are big enough to hold one of these.

I wonder if how long the batter would last when using it as an inverter. Has anyone here acutally used one of these or carry them around in their H2?

This seems like it might be a much cheaper and more practical solution providing there was a good place to store it and a way to recharge it when the truck is running. I have so many more questions regarding this product.

How long could it run my inverters assuming I had a 32" LCD TV and satellite dish hooked up to it.

How fast can it recharge?

Can I hook it up to the 12 volt dc port in the back of the H2 so it charges only when the truck is running?

Anyone know more about these? I can't even find their home website.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Does Jump-N-Carry have a website?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Google Says: http://www.jumpstarter.com/site_cat.asp?family_pk=11&br_pk=37&category_pk=70

You know you can use google.com too


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I had not thought of this option. I wonder if the bins in the back of the H2 are big enough to hold one of these. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some models might, but would become lethal flying weapons in an abrupt stop or accident. Remeber, these are heavy batteries
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
I wonder if how long the batter would last when using it as an inverter. Has anyone here acutally used one of these or carry them around in their H2?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
We keep one in my wife's car for jumps. I haven't the foggiest how long it'll run an inverter.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
This seems like it might be a much cheaper and more practical solution providing there was a good place to store it and a way to recharge it when the truck is running. I have so many more questions regarding this product.

How long could it run my inverters assuming I had a 32" LCD TV and satellite dish hooked up to it.

How fast can it recharge?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The manual on my 4000 model says to charge for 24-48 hours after significant discharges, and much shorter periods after jumps.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Can I hook it up to the 12 volt dc port in the back of the H2 so it charges only when the truck is running?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some models have this capability. Redundantly: Not all do.

[Jesse]

Ok - seems like the best option would be two Optima Yellow top batteries. With my accessories - Inverter and maybe sound/video system drawing from the 2nd battery. This way I would never run down the main battery.

Obviously wiring up the inverter to the 2nd battery is easy - but does anyone know how I would move the power for the factory sound/video system to the 2nd battery?

[PARAGON]

Under the hood, there is a wire that serves the main power block there. You would remove that from your starting battery and have it coming from your second battery.

It's very easy to do.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Under the hood, there is a wire that serves the main power block there. You would remove that from your starting battery and have it coming from your second battery. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Would you still be able to start the vehicle if the 2nd battery was totally flat? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, where does the computer get power? Doesn't it need to be running right to be able to start the truck?

[PARAGON]

I am assuming some sort of combiner/isolator will be utilized. If this is the case, then you would simply combine the two for starting purposes and the "juice" from the starting battery would give you power for the electronics.

[ree]

Sounds like we went in a circle.

For Jesse to wire the stereo sound system to the second battery (isolated from the startger battery) he's going to want to leave all of the main fusebox connected to the primary battery. But then needs to do what Phil suggested and move the RADIO and RDO AMP circuits off the main fuse box and hook directly (fused that is) to the second battery. Are these two circuits sufficient to move the entire sock sound system off the main battery? It looks like all the others are unrelated to sound.

This seems much simpler than connecting the second battery to the engine-compartment fuse box and coping with any computer related starting issues.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Sounds like we went in a circle.

For Jesse to wire the stereo sound system to the second battery (isolated from the startger battery) he's going to want to leave all of the main fusebox connected to the primary battery. But then needs to do what Phil suggested and move the RADIO and RDO AMP circuits off the main fuse box and hook directly (fused that is) to the second battery. Are these two circuits sufficient to move the entire sock sound system off the main battery? It looks like all the others are unrelated to sound.

This seems much simpler than connecting the second battery to the engine-compartment fuse box and coping with any computer related starting issues. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No, I don't think that's what has just been said at all. You isolate the batteries so that when a draw occurs everything except for the starter draws from one battery. Then, upon start, they are combined for extra available cranking amps as well as providing power for the electronics should one have drained the main battery completely dead.

You could have the "switch" to the combiner portion controlled by an actual in-cab switch or even power from the ignition circuit, so that when you turn the key to start, it locks up the solenoid and provides power from both batteries.

At any rate, I would suggest buying one of the isolator/combiner kits if you are going to do the dual battery deal. You also want to isolate the batteries from each other during the charging and there is no real way to easily do this without utilizing one of their kits.