2 Inch Lift on H2.

[timgco]

I don;t know where you guys are getting 40's from....that would be retarded!! 37's on teh stock rims just fit and allow full flex. 38's with a 4" Rancho kit (more like a 6" kit) barely allow for 38's and still allow it flex up all the way.

With 38's or larger, you can forget about even turning all the way.

[DuckTruck]

i can tell you what we are thinking.....simple math.

if we can run 37's on stock rims with no lift. thus, if i lift my rig 3 inches, and keep the wheels the same, 40"s are definately doable.

especially when individuals are running 40"s with only a 2 inch body lift and they actually wheel it......obviously it can be done.

jdj

[timgco]

Originally Posted by DuckTruck

i can tell you what we are thinking.....simple math.

if we can run 37's on stock rims with no lift. thus, if i lift my rig 3 inches, and keep the wheels the same, 40"s are definately doable.

especially when individuals are running 40"s with only a 2 inch body lift and they actually wheel it......obviously it can be done.

jdj

Have at it. I had a Rancho lifted H2 with 37 13.50's. Ther new owner is running 38's....and he is out of room to try and fit 40's. I have also seen a Fabtech lifted H2 in action with 38's (6" lift) and he had rubbing issues as well. THat's with a true 6" kit/ so to say 40's will work awith a 3", I don;t see how...even with adding a 2" body lift. I also wouldn;t consider running that tire on a stock rim. I think (not sure) 40's go to a 14.50 wide? I think that tire will pop off the bead easily being that wide with these narrow rims.

So I don;t see how 40's would even come close to fit... and be even close to functional. If you have the rear sensors for the factory airbags, you can kiss those goodbye as well. You would have to relocate those sensors from the wheelwell alltogether.

So I think your "simple math" is off. there is no way 40's will fit. But go ahead and prove me wrong. it would look bada$$ for sure, but with a tire that big, would be wortheless. "Obviously" it would be a worthless truck with that size tire.

[DRTYFN]

Originally Posted by DuckTruck

SummitUP,

or can this amount of lift be had from the full crank of the stock t-bars?

[tomp]

Truxx kit is a waste of money and is a rip off. Go with the green keys from Chevy

OEM length shocks will be a problem before needing to replace the UCAs as the shocks are first limiting factor. You can get 1.5-2" of lift in front using OEM UCAs but your ball joints will wear out quickly. There is a point where the OEM UCAs will not allow you to fall within OEM alignment specs, so if you go to far - you will need to opt for Cognito UCAs

Before you hit a full 3" of lift in front, you will start getting half-shaft or CV joint vibrations at 70+mph. With 37s, the safe mark is 44.5" from ground to bottom of fender flare.

Uni-ball Cognito UCAs are very nice and will allow max height of 44.5" (with 37s) from ground to bottom of fender flare and still fall into OEM alignment specs. The Uniballs will never need replacing and may last life of H2.

Tim..only thing you might want to add to list id the Borgeson Steering shaft. It is "optional" but if you are looking to build ultimate non-lifted H2 - this is nice mod. It will further tighten steering as it rids it of slop in the shaft. Also rids clunk... Also, dont forget the tru-cool tranny cooler and the Diablo programmer to recal speedo for larger tires and deactivate GM torque management for "power on demand". Don't forget the Hutchison beadlocks Tim!!! Also, dump all drivetrain fluids and pour in Redline for big improvement

For those arguing about the 38s, Tim is right. He has owned more Hummers than all of us and offroads them too so you might want to heed his advice. You can't do 38s without at least a 4-6" lift without major rubbing issues and even then will still rub pretty bad offroad.

Summitup is on track as well.

[Bimmer9938]

Have at it. I had a Rancho lifted H2 with 37 13.50's. Ther new owner is running 38's....and he is out of room to try and fit 40's. I have also seen a Fabtech lifted H2 in action with 38's (6" lift) and he had rubbing issues as well. THat's with a true 6" kit/ so to say 40's will work awith a 3", I don;t see how...even with adding a 2" body lift.

Dose anybody make a 2" body lift for the H2? I've never seen or heard of it.

[timgco]

Originally Posted by Bimmer9938

Dose anybody make a 2" body lift for the H2? I've never seen or heard of it.

I'm not sure on who makes it, but I do know that either a 2" or 3" body lift is what is used on the DMax /Allison conversion to allow enough room.

I don't hink i would do a body lift on this truck though. I'm not sure we would gain too much from it. your rock rails and bumper woudl show a gap along with a mod would be needed to hide the gaps in the fender wells. Those lift lips might work though.

[Bimmer9938]

If anyone has info...please share.

[tomp]

Originally Posted by Bimmer9938

If anyone has info...please share.

Why would anyone make a 2" lift when you can get this with parts already available? Read what's already been posted and you can accomplish this amount of lift while strengthening the steering, increasing flex and ground clearance all at the same time. You gain so much more by doing this versus doing a lift kit that drops the front diff down and lower rear trailing arm brackets.

[Bimmer9938]

I already have a Truxx lift, I'd just like a little more tire clearance for bigger meats. I don't take my truck offroad, I just like the lifted look.

[IRA51]

Originally Posted by DRTYFN

yes but ,you realy Fu*k up the nice smooth ride with the keys or cranking the bars .

[DuckTruck]

Tom.....my point exactly. i am glad to see someone understands my "obvious" theory.

also, many other specific vehicle factors come into play when examining what will work or will not: wheel width, offset, tire width, tire height, knuckle lift vs. full diff. drop, and track width.

thus, that is why i dont think Tim's argument is conclusive (no offense to him....Lord knows i respect his knowledge and definately don't want for this thread or any others "to go there"), but i do feel he is comparing two different lift strategies based upon his experience with only one.

i have owned many lifted vehicles. with that said, my 2 door tahoe (college rig) for instance had a 6" rough country and 35"s on 15x10 wheels. that was all that lift could clear and still function off road. it looked great, but when compared to a later 2 door tahoe i owned (law school) which only had a 3" body lift, cranked t-bars, and add-a-leafs in the rear, i netted a smaller amount of lift, but ran bigger tires (36" TSL's and later 37" Boggers), had more ground clearance (due to nothing being dropped in the front suspension--as tom mentioned), and was more capable off road because of all these factors.

therefore, if running a bigger tire, having more ground clearance, perfecting the stock suspension setup via quality pieces, and becoming more capable off-road is "lame" and/or "worthless"....well then sign me and my truck up!

DUCK

[Bimmer9938]

yes but ,you realy Fu*k up the nice smooth ride with the keys or cranking the bars .

Mine rides awesome, don't know about everybody else. Thats the difference between just cranking up the bars vs. keys.

[IRA51]

the keys put the same load on the T bars ,but allow the adjustment bolt not to bottom out . done 2500 hd's both ways and you get a harsh ride with both. first one I ever did was a 93 k 5 blazer 4x4 .

[Bimmer9938]

If you really wanted the best for going off road you'd ditch the IFS for a solid axle with coil springs or coil overs for the best articulation. Agreed?

[DuckTruck]

if i remeber correctly the original H1 is decent off road and it seems to have IFS......

but yeah......a solid axle H2 would be burly.....however one would loose all the advantages of our traction control systems and the daily driver abilities they have.

DUCK

[Bimmer9938]

Yea, I don't think the H1 and the H2 have the exact same suspension...

[HumminNBoatin']

40s Can be done!!! But its not easy.

See: Picture number 4 on the site posted
http://thehummerclubinc.com/Media/Images.aspx?I=246

This Black SUT is Custom Body Lifted 2". He also cranked T-bars and did something with his coils in the back. There was alot of cutting and welding involved in doing this lift. Yes those tires are on stock rims and I have never heard of Rick bitching about loosing beads.

Guys I would like to thank you for the great response. So far I have learned that I will be purchasing the Cognito kit before I do this. Now I just have to figure our the BACK END!! lol.

Eric

[Bimmer9938]

They used to use a relocation bracket for the airbag sensor, that would trick the sensor into thinking the back was sagging so it would air up and raise the rear of the vehicle. This is common practice on lowering air bag equipped vehicles aswell.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by DuckTruck

i can tell you what we are thinking.....simple math.

if we can run 37's on stock rims with no lift. thus, if i lift my rig 3 inches, and keep the wheels the same, 40"s are definately doable.
jdj

I can't speak of the bodylift but I can tell you that with a fabtech 6" lift, 40's will not work.

My 38's fit perfectly, no trimming, no rubbing (would make the frame shiny but not bear into it so that you could feel it)

The problem with 38's and especially 40's even if you could fit them is the truck would run like crap. When I installed 38's, I was so dissapointed with the performance, I installed 4.56 gears.... that didn't work so I installed a supercharger.

That's why I did the torsion bar bit with 35's. Looks decent and not so power robbing, it makes the truck nasty to drive.

Mark