Hummer Service Input

[HUMTECH]

Now thats HUMMER service

Originally posted by KenP:
It's the service provided in the back room by the hot little receptionist that makes me happy to wait for my truck.

[Fastest H-Town Realtor]

Let's see:

1-Better techs. Don't go and WD-40 the door hinges when i tell you there is a squeak in the door panel. That is insulting.

2-Do what I ask to get fixed and the writer says will get fixed. I do not want to have to come back 3 times to re-program the memory in the seats.

3-Maybe petition GM to actually add quality to the product. Sqeaky assed door panels, cheap plastic, no adjustable seat back in rear seats, no rear a/c are all unaceptable on a $55K+ vehicle.

[KenP]

Originally posted by Fastest H-Town Realtor:
Let's see:

1-Better techs. Don't go and WD-40 the door hinges when i tell you there is a squeak in the door panel. That is insulting.

2-Do what I ask to get fixed and the writer says will get fixed. I do not want to have to come back 3 times to re-program the memory in the seats.

3-Maybe petition GM to actually add quality to the product. Sqeaky assed door panels, cheap plastic, no adjustable seat back in rear seats, no rear a/c are all unaceptable on a $55K+ vehicle.

But we all still bought them anyway. Oh well.

FWIW, I've always had great service at Hall HUMMER. Phil takes great care of us, as does the sales team headed by Chuck.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Am I correct that during a Lion's Back decent, in 4WL, and with the possibility of using the emergency break as well, you'd still be okay even if your brakes went out?

No. You'd be bouncing down LB screaming like a baby and the video would be shown around the World for the next fifty years. Instant fame

My e-brake can't hold my truck on the driveway, so I think I'd be f***ed on LB with brake failure. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I think that's why they put a big "P" on the brake release now. It's no longer an "E" brake. It's a parking brake.

You put the truck in 1st gear and stay close to the guy in front of you so you can't build up momentum.

[MarineHawk]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Am I correct that during a Lion's Back decent, in 4WL, and with the possibility of using the emergency break as well, you'd still be okay even if your brakes went out?

No. You'd be bouncing down LB screaming like a baby and the video would be shown around the World for the next fifty years. Instant fame

My e-brake can't hold my truck on the driveway, so I think I'd be f***ed on LB with brake failure. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Throw it in Park and pray?

[ShaggyX]

4lo 1st gear...you shouldnt be able to go above about 10mph right? Would be a hell of a ride, but nothing like that bronco they show barreling down. I would imagine you should be able to keep it on the rock the whole way down in 4lo 1st gear.

[HUMTECH]

That bronco in question lost its brakes and the driver attemted to shift into low gear but missed the shift thats why it ran away. Trucks without ABS when going down steep inclines should never use brakes, if you lock the brakes up thats when you lose control and end up in trouble, always use low range and low gear and you shouldn't have to use your brakes. I've been wheelin' Jeeps for about 14 years and learned that the hard way many years ago and lost my first Jeep but managed to walk away. You should test your rigs capability of this and get used to how it reacts on short steep grades then you will know how to react to it on A longer hill. Just some friendly advice to those who may not know.

[PARAGON]

Originally posted by PhilD:
Humtech, H2's don't have enough engine braking to rely just on 1st gear, you have to use the brakes most of the time on steep declines. A well geared Jeep will be fine, but an H2 will be less likely to get sideways and roll on most inclines/declines due to the longer wheelbase. You have to wheel each vehicle differently and what works for one, won't necessarily work for the other. Engine braking an H2 is generally a waste of time and only useful on mild trails.

Shaggy, I'm guessing you may break 10 mph, but not by much. You should be able to keep it on the rock, provided you don't panic, and there is no one in front of you, especially someone walking down LB. When you got to the bottom, I think you may break one or two things, but you are rght, if you kept a cool head and had a clear shot at it, you may just be okay.

Yeah, engine braking and H2 is not something that goes together well.

Once you got to the bottom, I think you would be screwed and still do a nose dive to some degree since that first approach is so steep.

[MarineHawk]

Does someone make a transfer case for the H2 with lower ratio than the stock 2.64:1 (33:1 crawl ratio)? Like, say, 4.0:1 (i.e., 50:1 crawl ratio)?
If so, is it a good idea?
I know that the associated increase in torque would increase the prospect for breakages in some circumstances if you weren't careful, but that would probably solve the issue discussed above and give you a little more control going over obstacles. It seems to me that, if you didn't romp on such a system, it would not be likely to break things; it would just give you a little more control.
I'm just guessing a little, but am I wrong?

[MarineHawk]

Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MarineHawk:
Does someone make a transfer case for the H2 with lower ratio than the stock 2.64:1 (33:1 crawl ratio)? Like, say, 4.0:1 (i.e., 50:1 crawl ratio)?I wrong?

Not sure if you can convert the BW unit. But I'm sure you could change the t-case to an Atlas II, I believe you can get down to a 10:1 ratio! A 4.3:1 low range or so would most probably be ideal though.

But at the end of the day, you'll never change the fact that the H2 is not an ideal rock crawler, it's too big, too heavy, too easy to break (especially IFS), and too expensive to smash up on a regular basis. It does make for an excellent all round off-road vehicle, that you can drive on a daily basis though.

FWIW A better crawl ratio would obviously be nice, but I have yet to see an obstacle the H2 couldn't do purely because of it's crawl ratio. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think your last sentence would be more accurate if you added: "... when I'm driving it."

I definitely defer to your much greater off-roading skills and H2 knowledge, but just to play Devil's advocate:
I think the way I've seen you get over some difficult obstacles in the videos circulating would sometimes not go so well for someone, like me, with a lower, more-intermediate skill level. Although not necessary to get over a particularly-tough obstacle (short of extreme rock crawling - which is not for the H2), wouldn't a higher crawl ratio allow someone to go over some of the same obstacles slower and less aggresively and actually decrease the risk of damage?
Not a likely scenario, but wouldn't it also help going down a very steep incline if you had brake failure?
I guess what I'm saying is that I think there's some possibility that a higher crawl ratio might help someone like me, yet not be much help to someone who really, really knows what he's doing in tough spots.
By way of hypothetical example: I have read quite a few reviews where the H3 outperforms all of the other vehicles in its class on rough terrain, and the testers attribute that in part to the higher crawl ratio. I get the impression that, if you were driving a an H3 with a worse crawl ratio, you'd still be able to do better than most of the testers. Yet the testers seem to be able to do better with the higher crawl ratio.
Of course, the H2 has a lot more power and torque ...
Sorry, just thinking out loud.

[PARAGON]

I don't think you can box it all up like that. Many obstacles you simply cannot just crawl over and momentum of some sort is needed. Controlling that momentum and keeping it smooth might help keep you from breaking, but the crawl ratio doesn't honestly come into play with an automatic like it does with a standard tranny.

With the standard tranny you would like a good crawl ratio so that you don't have to ride the clutch nearly as much and can creep, even 2 foot drive at times. With an auto, this never comes into play and you can raise the RPMs to reach the torque needed to apply whatever is necessary and do so very controlled by keeping it in first gear.

[MarineHawk]

Good. I wasn't really wanting to spend the money to make the change anyway.

[MarineHawk]

Originally posted by PhilD:
Spend the same $3k on a lift, it will help you a whole lot more.

Or could I just spend it on more beer and wine?

On another note ... wait, I'll stop hijacking this thread and create another one.