Next Project - Inverter and Dual Battery Setup...few questions.

[NJ H2]

kodiakz has a dual Optima set-up

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DRTYFN:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Dretynfn has a dual setup, but not sure which one.

If you don't have air, then there is plenty of room to mount a battery (or two) in the air compressor area. Run power to the charging circuit and you'd have a good power soure at the rear of the vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You'll have to make sure the battery is completely protected from the elements. I've seen even Optimas vent after they've gotten wet. I had one do that after washing the engine bay on another vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'll have to disagree. You can dunk an optima and keep going. Even regular batteries work fine when left to the elements. We have old pieces of equipment with exposed battery boxes that just sit out in the weather all of the time.

As far as the optimas are concerned, they are sealed. If it vents, then there is a breach in one of the cells. The other thing with optimas is that you can mount them sideways, diagonally, just about anyway you need and they are fine, since they are sealed.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Does Jump-N-Carry have a website?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Google Says: http://www.jumpstarter.com/site_cat.asp?family_pk=11&br_pk=37&category_pk=70

You know you can use google.com too


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I had not thought of this option. I wonder if the bins in the back of the H2 are big enough to hold one of these. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some models might, but would become lethal flying weapons in an abrupt stop or accident. Remeber, these are heavy batteries
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
I wonder if how long the batter would last when using it as an inverter. Has anyone here acutally used one of these or carry them around in their H2?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
We keep one in my wife's car for jumps. I haven't the foggiest how long it'll run an inverter.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
This seems like it might be a much cheaper and more practical solution providing there was a good place to store it and a way to recharge it when the truck is running. I have so many more questions regarding this product.

How long could it run my inverters assuming I had a 32" LCD TV and satellite dish hooked up to it.

How fast can it recharge?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The manual on my 4000 model says to charge for 24-48 hours after significant discharges, and much shorter periods after jumps.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Can I hook it up to the 12 volt dc port in the back of the H2 so it charges only when the truck is running?
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Some models have this capability. Redundantly: Not all do.

[ree]

Sounds like we went in a circle.

For Jesse to wire the stereo sound system to the second battery (isolated from the startger battery) he's going to want to leave all of the main fusebox connected to the primary battery. But then needs to do what Phil suggested and move the RADIO and RDO AMP circuits off the main fuse box and hook directly (fused that is) to the second battery. Are these two circuits sufficient to move the entire sock sound system off the main battery? It looks like all the others are unrelated to sound.

This seems much simpler than connecting the second battery to the engine-compartment fuse box and coping with any computer related starting issues.

[Jesse]

Does Jump-N-Carry have a website? I had not thought of this option. I wonder if the bins in the back of the H2 are big enough to hold one of these.

I wonder if how long the batter would last when using it as an inverter. Has anyone here acutally used one of these or carry them around in their H2?

This seems like it might be a much cheaper and more practical solution providing there was a good place to store it and a way to recharge it when the truck is running. I have so many more questions regarding this product.

How long could it run my inverters assuming I had a 32" LCD TV and satellite dish hooked up to it.

How fast can it recharge?

Can I hook it up to the 12 volt dc port in the back of the H2 so it charges only when the truck is running?

Anyone know more about these? I can't even find their home website.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Under the hood, there is a wire that serves the main power block there. You would remove that from your starting battery and have it coming from your second battery. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Would you still be able to start the vehicle if the 2nd battery was totally flat? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, where does the computer get power? Doesn't it need to be running right to be able to start the truck?

[PARAGON]

Oh, and that would solve both of your problems.

[kodiakz]

Fot those that want the security of never having a dead battery, just add a heavy duty 200 amp isolator to my setup and only one of the 2 could be made live when the ignition is off.

[ree]

Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit.

[PARAGON]

I am assuming some sort of combiner/isolator will be utilized. If this is the case, then you would simply combine the two for starting purposes and the "juice" from the starting battery would give you power for the electronics.

[Jesse]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DRTYFN:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Dretynfn has a dual setup, but not sure which one.

If you don't have air, then there is plenty of room to mount a battery (or two) in the air compressor area. Run power to the charging circuit and you'd have a good power soure at the rear of the vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You'll have to make sure the battery is completely protected from the elements. I've seen even Optimas vent after they've gotten wet. I had one do that after washing the engine bay on another vehicle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have air suspension - so I guess this is not an option.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Here is what I would like to have happen - I am not sure if this is possible.

When we tailgate - we always have our satellite dish hooked up to a portable dish. With one battery we run the dish for about an hour then start the truck and let it run for 20 minutes. We have on a couple of occasions lost track of time and did not have enough juice to start the truck. I am hoping I can have a dual battery setup that can help avoid this. Now here is problem number 2 – when starting the car – the ignition cuts off the current for everything else or at least kills the power to the inverter so that it has to reset. This causes our dish to lose signal and also reset. When this happens the satellite receiver needs to re-acquire all the guide info. This takes 10 minutes and we don’t have 10 minutes.

I am sure any football fans can understand the huge stress this puts on all us tailgaters.

I am hoping the dual battery setup will prevent this from happening. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It sounds like you want to:
- add a deep cycle second battery that you can rundown and recharge often
- use an isolator/switch/combiner/relay to prevent simultaneous discharge of both batteries when the alternator's not charging
- run the inverter and dish off of the second battery
- don't run anything off of the main battery withut the truck running as that would compromise the ability to start the truck

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NJ H2:
kodiakz has a dual Optima set-up
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>How did I miss this. NJ where did he discuss this setup?

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
I have seen some setups where there is an isolator installed. Even a switch in the cabin for which batter to use. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have a similar setup on my boat, one cranking battery and one deep cycle with a switch (1 - 2 - Both). Something like that would work better for you and allow you to isolate the cranking battery and use the deep cycle for running your stuff. A few leads and a switch/isolator added to the above setup would work fine. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

And I've looked into some voltage sensing relays that route charge to both batteries when you have charging current going to the main batter, but disconnect the relay when the charging current goes away. There are some fancy (somewhat pricy) variants of this which add a manual override to connect the backup battery to the starter battery even if charging current is absent so that you can leave all your accessories wired to the main battery, have a second battery getting charged all the time, and beable to use the second battery in a pinch.

I think the vendors call these battery combiners. West marine has one but it isn't rated for starting current. Xantrex makes one called the PathMaker. You could surely wire up something from cheaper components if you wanted to save your money.

[Jesse]

Here is what I would like to have happen - I am not sure if this is possible.

When we tailgate - we always have our satellite dish hooked up to a portable dish. With one battery we run the dish for about an hour then start the truck and let it run for 20 minutes. We have on a couple of occasions lost track of time and did not have enough juice to start the truck. I am hoping I can have a dual battery setup that can help avoid this. Now here is problem number 2 – when starting the car – the ignition cuts off the current for everything else or at least kills the power to the inverter so that it has to reset. This causes our dish to lose signal and also reset. When this happens the satellite receiver needs to re-acquire all the guide info. This takes 10 minutes and we don’t have 10 minutes.

I am sure any football fans can understand the huge stress this puts on all us tailgaters.

I am hoping the dual battery setup will prevent this from happening.

[ree]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ree:
Paragon's idea is good to get you going quick.

But, how about getting a high amperage Jump-n-Carry with the continuous DC charge circuit and run the inverter off of that. Keep it plugged into the truck when not-tailgating, and unplug it when tailgating to prevent accidental discharge since the accessory outlets aren't on on a RAP (retained accessory power) circuit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Hence my idea, but I don't think any have the durability nor longevity that something like a yellow top optima would offer. I had one that would not hold the charge only after a few discharges. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good to know.

We've got one for jumping. I've never even considered using it for inverter power even though the packaging suggests they can be used that way.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Klaus:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jesse:
Are there more pictures of this setup? Did you have to build a custom tray? I have seen some setups where there is an isolator installed. Even a switch in the cabin for which batter to use. Looks like there is nothing like that on this setup. How would this setup work and benefit me? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I was thinking the same thing... It appears all you get with a parallel battery setup would be more capacity. You would still have the danger of draining both batteries and no reserve.

Still, an isolator could be added to this setup. Looks good. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yeah, he just has extra capacity but you could easily add the wrangler setup Drty has or something similar and use the larger capacity optimas he has in there.