Ride height adjustment (front lift) PICS ADDED

[felsmann]

No need to do such thing.
By the way, make sure you raise the front with a jack under the cross member, not the LCA.

The wheels must hang freely before you adjust the t-bars.

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MxHonda:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by evomind:
i want to know why they didnt make it level from the factory?
is there a reason? i cant believe it "just happened" that one side sits 2" lower than the other. (front to back). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

In one of the H3 advirtisments, it states "your passangers wont even notice" talking about hard braking. I think the front is lower because:

1) when braking, the stock setup rests on the bump stops and does not allow the nose to dive.

2) because of the limits on range of motion with IFS, they needed to keep the ride in the middle of the suspension range of motion. This alone forced them to use the lower front ride height (they would have had to redesign the frame/IFS mounting like the lift kit companies will do). If you crank up the front too much, the range of upward suspension motion is decreasd. This causes the shock/suspension to "top out" an reach the upper limit when the front becomes unsprung. (clear as mud?) </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sound way better than "this is so girls buy the trucks."

[MxHonda]

Thanks for the info Jagular. On the Colorado forums they talk about an aftermarket "offset key" that helps prevent the increase in torsion stress. I will keep looking and see if I can visually compare when I p/u my H3 on Tuesday.

[MxHonda]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by felsmann:
No need to do such thing.
By the way, make sure you raise the front with a jack under the cross member, not the LCA.

The wheels must hang freely before you adjust the t-bars. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Felsmann, good advice. I used a 4"x4" block of wood about 10" long and a floor jack. I positioned it right between the lower aluminum "H3" skid plate bolts and it lifted both tires evenly off the ground. Be sure to chock the rear tires for safety!

[evomind]

i cant believe they made the front lower to accomadate people or women getting in and out.
isnt that why they made the step bars?
come on!

[boulderhummer]

appreciate the info guys!!!

[MxHonda]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H3Lady:
which way did you turn it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Righty tighty Lefty loosey... clockwise to lift, counter clockwise to lower.

I will report back tonight on ride quality.

[jagular7]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MxHonda:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
How do you measure the difference between front to rear?

I would think you would need a point reference like one right behind the front tire and one in front of the rear tire on the kick panel. Why not just take a level on the kick panel? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I always measure fender height. A tape measure centered on the wheel from the ground to the fender lip. The rear on mine is 40 1/2" and the front is now 39 1/2" with 2 full turns on the torsion bar bolt.
.....snip..... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Do you think if you drew a line between the fenders it would be horizontal? Most manu's have a taller front fender than the rear due to the cycling and movement of the front tires up/down & side/side (turning). Would it be the same for the window edge, drawing a horizontal line between the lower edge of the windows? It's really difficult with todays vehicles as they have a sloping front section, a taller rear section, etc all for aerodynamics.

I would think a common point related between front to rear would be used, ie. the kick panel, nerf bars, the steps, etc. I know its just eye-candy, but if you step back 20' you could see a difference.

[x-humm]

I followed your adjustment method. I have now 13,000 miles and no problems. Just don't go over 2 turns.

[AfroCreame]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MxHonda:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H3Lady:
which way did you turn it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Righty tighty Lefty loosey...counter clockwise to lift, clockwise to lower.

I will report back tonight on ride quality. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So which way is it? I've read from other posts that CLOCKWISE raises it.

[DeLeon]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
I was have decided to use the re-index keys as well as torquing the torsion bars, I will probably also replace the stock bump stops with possibly some energy suspension ones to compensate for the nose dive breaking issues. I think this will hold me over until the actual lifts become available. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rancho's 4" is ready to order now and will ship on the 16th. If you plan on lifting, Id just wait. SEMA is on Nov. and I'm sure there will be other lifts there also. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

how much will it sell for?

[boulderhummer]

any of you guys think its a good idea to install a re-indexer/off set key even if your only going to raise it and inch...
will it matter or not??

[timgco]

you turned them 5 turns?

How does it ride now? It has to be very stiff! I think you're the frist owner to do this. Give us an update when you get a chance please.
Thanks,
Tim.

[MxHonda]

The H3 appears to be "stinkbugging". Over on the Colorado forum they are able to raise the front almost 2" by adjusting the torsion bars. Can this be done on the H3 to level the ride height?

[jp's-h3]

Adjusted mine about 2 weeks ago, 2.5 turns. Have not noticed any real difference in the ride.
very easy, well worth the effort!

[MxHonda]

This must be the "offset key" although most say it is not needed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-hummer-h3-2-lift-le...temZ7991953905QQrdZ1

The instuctions are "It takes an 1 1/8" Socket. Take pressure off the torsion bars by jacking up you truck. Put on the emergency brake. Mark the bolt and frame with a chalk mark to keep track of rotations. Each full turn equals around 1/2" lift. I think I turned mine 4 turns and picked up 1 1/2", just enough to level out the truck and equal the clearance on the wheel wells. The next day I took it to the dealership and had it aligned it is free up to 7,500 miles on you new truck. They said it neede very little adjustment."

[HummerNewbie]

I raised mine two turns this weekend and I looks a lot better. I don't know if it is my imagination or not but as Kacyk said, I believe the ride suffered slightly.

[SledgeHummer]

Hi Guys, I just got my H3 few days back, yesterday I took it for its first test in the Arabian Desert.

Anyway, before my H3, I used to drive (still do) a 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 (http://www.zr2.com) in a way the H3 replaces the ZR2 in the GM lineup, it has the same back axle, same front suspension, same shocks, same Gearbox.

Back to the subject, I have fiddled with my ZR2 and know a thing or two about torsion bar lifting. First of all, lifting the torsion bar will put tremendous stress on your ball joints, they will wear out before their due time. 2 inches is the MAX you can lift, you can even lift it more than 2 inches but the ball joints will fail within days. 2 inches will make'em fail within 3-4 months depending on your driving habits. 1 inch torsion bar lift is relatively safe.

To rememdy this problem, there is something called "Torsion Bar re-indexer" available for Blazers and Tahoes and all IFS-torsion bar trucks (not sure if it is avaialable yet for H3s) you can find them on any website like Summit Racing (http://www.summit.com) which basically is an adapter that you install at the body-end of the torsion bar (not the suspension end) and then fix your OEM torsion bar on that adapter. it's like "extending" your torsion bar. THEN you can lift your truck by 2 inches and more without affecting your ball joint performance. But I guess we'll have to wait until someone comes up with "re-indexers" for the H3.

Just my 2 cents

DuneH3

[KenP]

BTW, the truck looked good. But he may have overdone it.

[MxHonda]

If you go here and search "torsion lift" you will know as much as I do:

http://www.coloradofans.com/search.php

I will do this next weekend and post details w/pics.