Okay, let?s start this all over....

[tyler1bo]

hahaha..mark I laughed after I posted that. And 2010_5thgen the rancho will probably fit the 40's, BUT you most likely will run into rubbing. It's not quite high enough to clear 40's successfully. From what I hear around 7.5-8" will do it. If you do put 40's on just the rancho it will looked very stuffed.

[2010_5thgen]

im not planning on running 40's. 38's will suit me fine.

[tyler1bo]

Originally Posted by charles06

I bought the truck used and it already had the kit on it, including the dual shock set-up. It had the standard shocks, and the shock hoops kept coming loose. I eventually took them off, and realized that the shocks were pointless. I could compress them by hand, and I'm not a big guy.

I honestly think they're for show purposes..I've heard they aren't much at all. MAYBE a little more shock absorption, but not much. haha. I think it's just a way to spend more dough on shocks.

[tyler1bo]

I think 38's are the way to go unless you're really thinking about some lift the only thing about 38's are the width's..the toyo's have the 13.50's, kinda skinny for the height, and REALLY fat, 15.50's.

[2010_5thgen]

i thought about that and thought that may afffect the handling. but with upgrading from a 17 to a 20" wheel, id be surprised if it didnt seem to tighten up the handling a bit. i dont think i have the right offset or width wheel to do a 15.50 wide tire.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by 2010_5thgen

have at em then.


and found this on ranchos web site.....3rd line .... http://gorancho.com/suspension.php?m...mmer_h2#l ift

Oh, no doubting you... I just meant it won't happen. (at least on my kit) I'll bet I could get 38's on there but that's it. There is no way I could get 40's on my truck now.


Mark

[tyler1bo]

Originally Posted by 2010_5thgen

i thought about that and thought that may afffect the handling. but with upgrading from a 17 to a 20" wheel, id be surprised if it didnt seem to tighten up the handling a bit. i dont think i have the right offset or width wheel to do a 15.50 wide tire.

I know a guy who is running the 15.50's and he said it handles beautifully..And you don't necessarily HAVE to have a super wide tire to run the 15.50's..Roushdemon ran 20X10 on them and they were fine. But I hear that the 15.50's have so much grip that it really wears on the steering components.

[2010_5thgen]

not to mention how much worse they will be on gas mileage.

[tyler1bo]

haha..oh yeah. Programmer and regearing would bring some of it back though.

[slippy]

Originally Posted by charles06

I bought the truck used and it already had the kit on it, including the dual shock set-up. It had the standard shocks, and the shock hoops kept coming loose. I eventually took them off, and realized that the shocks were pointless. I could compress them by hand, and I'm not a big guy.

are both shocks easy to compress? or the just the second shock for the dual hoop setup?

[charles06]

The four shocks that came out of the shock hoops were worthless. You really only need one, well-valved shock for vehicles.

[OrangeCrush]

So about a month ago, I was going to the track with my mini cooper. I wanted to adjust the suspension to remove some of the camber so I ordered a set of Hotchkins adjustable lower control arms.

When I put the car on the lift, I discovered that when I rebuilt the car after I totalled it at the track last year, I had already replaced them with the identical control arms.

Fast forward today. When I decided to lift the H2 to get 40?s under it, I ordered a set of keys to crank up the front end and a set of spacers under the rear springs.

So today I finally got a chance to install my new keys. Once pulled, I realized they were IDENTICAL to the ones I had already installed. What a freakin? moron.

On the bright side, cranking up the keys gave me an add?l 3?. When I install the rear spacers, I?ll level the truck off and raise or lower the front as necc.

Mark

PS. Anyone want a brand new set of keys to raise your front end, I?ve got a set, $90 shipped.

PSS. When I received the H2 back from the duramax conversion, I received a set of torsion bars out of the HD2500 that the engine came out of. I installed them into the H2 today and they?re definitely bigger. I can?t tell if the extra (not much but noticeable) stiffness is from cranking them up to 3? or using the thicker torsion bars. Thoughts?

[PaHumBug]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

So about a month ago, I was going to the track with my mini cooper. I wanted to adjust the suspension to remove some of the camber so I ordered a set of Hotchkins adjustable lower control arms.

When I put the car on the lift, I discovered that when I rebuilt the car after I totalled it at the track last year, I had already replaced them with the identical control arms.

Fast forward today. When I decided to lift the H2 to get 40’s under it, I ordered a set of keys to crank up the front end and a set of spacers under the rear springs.

So today I finally got a chance to install my new keys. Once pulled, I realized they were IDENTICAL to the ones I had already installed. What a freakin’ moron.

On the bright side, cranking up the keys gave me an add’l 3”. When I install the rear spacers, I’ll level the truck off and raise or lower the front as necc.

Mark

PS. Anyone want a brand new set of keys to raise your front end, I’ve got a set, $90 shipped.

PSS. When I received the H2 back from the duramax conversion, I received a set of torsion bars out of the HD2500 that the engine came out of. I installed them into the H2 today and they’re definitely bigger. I can’t tell if the extra (not much but noticeable) stiffness is from cranking them up to 3” or using the thicker torsion bars. Thoughts?

I thought you were going to say that when you went to convert your truck to deisel, you discovered that you already converted it...

I'm no expert but my guess is the stiffness is from both, cranking and thicker bars, but the majority of it is from the thicker bars.

[tyler1bo]

Yeah if he's running out of room cranking the keys it'll ride rougher..haha. Funny story you having the identical pieces already installed though.

[guruerror]

Originally Posted by PaHumBug

I thought you were going to say that when you went to convert your truck to deisel, you discovered that you already converted it...

I'm no expert but my guess is the stiffness is from both, cranking and thicker bars, but the majority of it is from the thicker bars.

How long before the torsion bars start to 'wear out?' I noticed the other day that the bolt on my passenger side is cranked further than my driver's side to get the same lift. Is that an indication that the passenger side bar is weaker than the driver's?

...and if so, when it comes time to replace them, would I benefit from a more heavy duty bar?

...and, come to think of it, why doesn't the H2 already have the 2500 HD bars?!?

Yeah...I'm full of questions this afternoon.

[adamw89_2000]

my front end shop say they will not wear out as you speak of.. i asked same ? top them. they said they have never seen a vehicle with wore out torsions bars.. reason one is cranked more than the other is what is called the " chevy lean" every gm pickup has the same problem.. 2wd or 4wd apparently. im not sure why gm does this( maybe to compensate for the weight of gas tank and etc. ?)

[guruerror]

Originally Posted by adamw89_2000

my front end shop say they will not wear out as you speak of.. i asked same ? top them. they said they have never seen a vehicle with wore out torsions bars.. reason one is cranked more than the other is what is called the " chevy lean" every gm pickup has the same problem.. 2wd or 4wd apparently. im not sure why gm does this( maybe to compensate for the weight of gas tank and etc. ?)

The 'chevy lean'...LOL! Well, you learn something new every day!

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by adamw89_2000

my front end shop say they will not wear out as you speak of.. i asked same ? top them. they said they have never seen a vehicle with wore out torsions bars.. reason one is cranked more than the other is what is called the " chevy lean" every gm pickup has the same problem.. 2wd or 4wd apparently. im not sure why gm does this( maybe to compensate for the weight of gas tank and etc. ?)

For every GM that I've lifted, I have had this same thing happen. One bolt is always in more than the other.

The ironic part is out all the vehicles I have ever done, yesterday, I installed the torsion bars, cranked the bolts back in the same distance and the truck is the EXACT same height all the way around. Usually, one side is 1/2-3/4" lower than the other side. No measuring, no fuss, no muss, just bolt in and it worked perfect. (for once)

I did however back the bolts down 4 full turns and the truck rides better and didn't change in height at all.

Today I had an alignment and tonight I order my tires. After much discussion, measuring and thought, I have decided to go with the Toyo's again in 40".

They're great tires (though I would have liked to have a more aggressive look) and hopefully I won't have to trim anything. (keeping fingers crossed)

Mark

[TTLex]

Just about everyone of these trucks will have one bolt in further than the other on the torsion adjustment, no worries there. Also, you can crank the stock bars up or use the green keys/ aftermarket keys and crank less......either way you are getting the same quality of ride, meaning it wont be more stiff or less stiff either way. The aftermarket keys just give you more adjustment due to the indexing of the keys (starting point) than the stock keys. Either way you are putting the same amount of tension on them.

I have the Fabtech 6" lift on my H2 and I was running 38's, they matched up perfectly with that lift in my opinion. I just switched them out for Toyo 40x15.5x20's on the Fuel Octane 20x12 wheels. They look freaking killer but they do rub at full lock on the back front fender flare (closest to the doors). I am running the E&G aftermarket flares, but I think they would rub regardless. I can trim it out there and problem would be solved, but Im trying a different route right now.

I just put in suspension maxx 1.5" spacer in the rear and I have some green keys that I am putting in tomorrow. I have my stock keys cranked just about all the way, an I am sitting roughly 3/4 in lower in the front than the back with the spacers. Im going to install the green keys and crank them to level with the rear, this will definitely solve my rubbing issue. Hopefully I wont have any vibration issues from any of the normal areas to be concerned with. I also put the cognito UCA's in which significantly changed the ball joint placement for the better at the cranked height. I think its going to work out fine.

The one issue that I did notice is that when I put the rear spacers in, the rear end moved out to the right of the truck roughly 3/4" to 1" due to the increased height and stock length panhard bar. To remedy that I ordered a Spohn adjustable panhard bar. Thats going on tomorrow as well, and that will pull the axle back over to where its supposed to be. The Spohn piece is the only adjustable panhard bar I could find, and it is a real nice quality piece (looks like it anyhow).

So tomorrow its install green keys, install and adjust panhard bar, off to the alignment and see where we are. Its amazing how much different 1.5" looks.

One side note...these freaking keys are not easy to install without the proper tool. Being the kinda guy I am, I didnt want to spend $100 on a one time use tool. We took a large C clamp and welded a nub on the top to fit like the real tool does. Go the old keys out no problem, bent the **** out of it trying to get the green keys back in. So we went with a larger and beefier clamp.....bent the **** out of it too. Tomorrow we are trying a 7 ton 2 jaw gear puller that others have used succesfully. Crossing my fingers.....at this point I am determined to not buy the tool.....im hard headed!

[tyler1bo]

Pics when finished please!!