Just finished DOI skid plate prototype

[Wisha Haddan H3]

I'm very interested too, so please ignore the haters and keep us informed on this project.

I think making 2 or 3 shorter plates instead of one long piece would help in a lot of ways. By covering separate components, you wouldn't have to remove the whole thing to service the transfer case, tranny, or oil pan. The gaps would allow more ventilation and reduce total weight. Easier installation & removal too. (The 2' x 2' aluminum plates under my Blazer were already a beotch to remove.)

For the oil filter, you could make a hinged door in the front skidplate, like the plate on my old Blazer ZR2. Worked great and a turnscrew latch kept it shut.

[f5fstop]

I'll make the same suggestion I made to BJC. With a full plate installed such as this, at least have the trans fluid flushed about every 25K. No a drain and filter change, but a flush. A drain and filter changes leaves most of the fluid inside the trans and the torque converter; a flush flushes out all old fluid and puts in new fresh fluid.
The other thing I would recommend is a larger trans flud cooler, such as those from BM to keep the fluid temps down.

[youngguns4x4]

He has a manual trans. There is no torque converter and heat wouldn't be as big of a factor to a manual as an auto although heat is still not good.

[bjc]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

I'll make the same suggestion I made to BJC. With a full plate installed such as this, at least have the trans fluid flushed about every 25K. No a drain and filter change, but a flush. A drain and filter changes leaves most of the fluid inside the trans and the torque converter; a flush flushes out all old fluid and puts in new fresh fluid.
The other thing I would recommend is a larger trans flud cooler, such as those from BM to keep the fluid temps down.

f5 - I think I understand your advice from an automatic transmission perspective. Torque converter = heat = transmission fluid cooler. But do I have less of an issue with a 5-speed? I thought the manual transmission lacked a fluid cooler (or doesn't need one due to less heat resulting from the absence of a torque converter?). I was also under the impression that more cooling isn't always a better thing with respct to a manual transmission since temperatures that are too low result in poor fluid performance and shifting. What fluid is used in the H3's manual transmission? Is moving to a synthetic based product recommended if one is not already being used?

I could just be confused here, but I would appreciate a clarification.

[Connie_Chung]

I still think you should make the plate out of balsa wood to reduce the weight.

[matt DOI]

Originally Posted by Wisha Haddan H3

I'm very interested too, so please ignore the haters and keep us informed on this project.

I think making 2 or 3 shorter plates instead of one long piece would help in a lot of ways. By covering separate components, you wouldn't have to remove the whole thing to service the transfer case, tranny, or oil pan. The gaps would allow more ventilation and reduce total weight. Easier installation & removal too. (The 2' x 2' aluminum plates under my Blazer were already a beotch to remove.)

For the oil filter, you could make a hinged door in the front skidplate, like the plate on my old Blazer ZR2. Worked great and a turnscrew latch kept it shut.

thanks for the kind words,the skider is 2 parts,one is from the rear A-arm cross member to the last cross member just in frount of the gas tank. the frount goes from the winch mount to both A-arm cross members. to change the oil you have to remove the same numbers of bolts as oem,6.
the next will have more slots and holes,it just hard to do that stuff free hand and still have a good looking part when done. keeping it 2 parts i can keep cost down so more of you can own 1.

[HummBebe]

Originally Posted by bjc

f5 - I think I understand your advice from an automatic transmission perspective. Torque converter = heat = transmission fluid cooler. But do I have less of an issue with a 5-speed? I thought the manual transmission lacked a fluid cooler (or doesn't need one due to less heat resulting from the absence of a torque converter?). I was also under the impression that more cooling isn't always a better thing with respct to a manual transmission since temperatures that are too low result in poor fluid performance and shifting. What fluid is used in the H3's manual transmission? Is moving to a synthetic based product recommended if one is not already being used?

I could just be confused here, but I would appreciate a clarification.

.
I't already sythetic.

[MarK M]

Originally Posted by matt DOI

thanks for the kind words,the skider is 2 parts,one is from the rear A-arm cross member to the last cross member just in frount of the gas tank. the frount goes from the winch mount to both A-arm cross members. to change the oil you have to remove the same numbers of bolts as oem,6.
the next will have more slots and holes,it just hard to do that stuff free hand and still have a good looking part when done. keeping it 2 parts i can keep cost down so more of you can own 1.

sweet... definately keep me posted. i'm interested. BTW, I didnt hear from you on whether i'll need to drill that two additional holes on my wich mount.

thanks,

[matt DOI]

Originally Posted by Ipedog

You guys need to get a room!



Okay... Enough of the luvy-duvy stuff....

Matt DOI -

For a prototype this looks really good. As for ghetto engineering... I don't think so. I don't know what crush-nut zerts are, but the only thing I saw that really worried me was the exposed, unprotected bolt heads. Perhaps crush-nut zerts take care of that...

From what I've seen here, yeah, I could be really interested in this. Please keep us informed.

the skider is c-bord for flat head cap screws so thay will all be flush mounted. the crush-nut zerts are a nut that when tighten down the fist time thay lock in to the hole. so for a 5/18 18 bolt you would drill a 3/8 hole insert the nut zert and tighten with a bolt,the zert would lock in and you remove the bolt and you have a threaded hole i a pace of steel as thin as .05,its a neat way to hold stuff together,and vary strong. i hope that helps. Matt DeFelice

[f5fstop]

Didn't know you were talking a manual, didn't read the entire thread, but answered your email thinking auto.
The manual uses a manual trans fluid, non-synthetic. The auto trans and transfer case uses Dexron IV and is also non-synthetic. Axles use synthetic fluid.
With a manual, you might be ok using synthetic, never seen anything against its use. For an auto, I don't recommend synthetic; too many people I know who had Vettes had problems with this trans and sythetic fluid. Problem with some synthetic in a trans is that trans fluid is rough. It feels slippery as hell, but it has to aid in friction, so it is finely balanced between being slippery and create friction.
So, I would guess for a manual, just drain and fill every 25K and you should be ok, or switch to a synthetic that can take the heat better.

You are correct, manuals do not increase the heat of the fluid like autos. There are no pressure passages with fluid pushing the countereffect of springs, pressure to apply drums, etc,. and the torque converter which causes a lot of heat.

[HummBebe]

Originally Posted by HummBebe

.
I't already sythetic.

I stand corrected.....again

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

The manual uses a manual trans fluid, non-synthetic.

The manual tranny in the H3 is the AR-5, right? Does it require GM Synchromesh oil? The NV3500 in my old Blazer did, and would not accept synthetic.

[HIHUMMER]

BTT!


Any updates?

BJC, Have you wheel w/ it yet??

[Agriv8r]

Originally Posted by evldave

ok, I'll bite.
In the absence of any answers I have the following comments:

That's gonna weight 100# at least (3/16). Any less thickess and Steve from San Jose might as well use it.


...

ooohhh sh1t, that funny

[bjc]

I've been out twice now and should get up to Paragon in a couple of weeks. The skid was supposed to be removed this week to get powder coated and reinstalled with recessed bolts -- I was traveling however, and didn't get around to it.

One of my test outings was a couple of weeks ago when all that rain hit the mid-atlantic. I ran muddy trails the morning after we got 7" and forded creeks that had turned into rivers. As for the mud, so far the skid appears to be keeping more out than it's letting in. Despite being buried deep several times, there was no mud caked up underneath the underbody as is usually the case after wheeling on a muddy day. I didn't bother pressure washing underneath afterwards since the only mud caught in the rear skid was a single dirt clod that had entered through one of the drain holes. I just reached in and pulled it out. When I pull the front skid this weekend, I will get a better look at how much mud it collected (or repelled).

I haven't done extensive rock crawling with the skid on so I can't provide a complete review yet. However, I can say that it protected very well while I was fording water. I drove probably 1000 yards upstream in a 2ft creek where it was very difficult to judge where the rocks were underneath the water. I picked a few bad lines and had the truck slip down hard onto the rocks. When I got home, I noticed some nice gashes on the rear skid plate that must have occurred during the trip up the creek. The good news is that the plate didn't bend or dent. When I get a chance to play around at Paragon, I'll see whether the plates can withstand the full weight of the truck when high-centered.

Finally, to address the heat concerns, I've recorded the temps of various components with an infrared gun. The problem is that I have not recorded any data with the skids removed so I really don't have a good baseline yet. Also, my records will reflect a 5-spd and not automatic transmission.

[HIHUMMER]

Thanks BJC. Hopefully I'll be having my similar prototype added next week and then will hit some serious rocks at Tellico. I'll track similar information w/ mine since I have an automatic transmission. If you come across any issues, please let me (us) know. Thanks again!