WARNING ON RACNHO LIFT

[MyxH3]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Bilstien makes a top notch shock. Fox makes a nice one too. Both of those will last. Fox stuff can all be rebuilt and recharged too. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
agreed...
nice stuff for sure.

[cherokeekid]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
The dealer oem Warranty is completed voided by using this kit reguardless of what TallJeep says.

I would really love to see other companies such as Rubicon Express, <span class="ev_code_RED">Rock Krawler </span> as well as any other manufacture offer a lift for the H3. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Having a RK kit is the last thing anyone needs!

I worked in service for 6 years and typically the only "void" is on or related to the aftermarket component, its just a matter of finding a real service advisor (a good number are complete idiots)

[H3 Guy]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
I also have a Jeep with a RC 6" lift and it performs great with zero bumpsteer, articulates great, has plenty of clearance and allows me to use 33" tires without rubbing without any funky backspacing problems. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How do you get bumpsteer with a straight axle?

[H3 Guy]

Regardless which kit you go with, the tires are going to sit outside of the fender at the same location. Rancho does it by using new wheels and Rough Country does it on the design of the knuckle. IMO a knuckle is not meant to have the higher moments and forces this way.

[NoMoGMPG]

Rancho used to make good offroad gear. Now it is just mostly rebadged products or lift/suspension kits suitable for faux-wheeling at the mall parking lot or tractor pulls.

A supposed offroad enhancement like a lift kit that doesn't allow for the industry standard of 15/16/17" wheels to be aired down? BS.

Can you say "Poseur"? Sure you can...Rancho.

I'll be looking to Teraflex for "well thought out" suspension packages. Rancho is relegated to the J.C. Whitney group of suppliers.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H3 Guy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
I also have a Jeep with a RC 6" lift and it performs great with zero bumpsteer, articulates great, has plenty of clearance and allows me to use 33" tires without rubbing without any funky backspacing problems. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How do you get bumpsteer with a straight axle? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You can the same way you get it with IFS. All bump steer is, is a very temporary toe misalignment.

[H3 Guy]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H3 Guy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
I also have a Jeep with a RC 6" lift and it performs great with zero bumpsteer, articulates great, has plenty of clearance and allows me to use 33" tires without rubbing without any funky backspacing problems. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How do you get bumpsteer with a straight axle? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You can the same way you get it with IFS. All bump steer is, is a very temporary toe misalignment. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

But bumpsteer is the differential of toe angle vs the opposite side. On a jeep the are connected. Unless your refering to the flex of the steering linkage. I would really like to see a straight axle with bumpsteer changing from putting a kit on.

[MyxH3]

.<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">But bumpsteer is the differential of toe angle vs the opposite side. On a jeep the are connected. Unless your refering to the flex of the steering linkage. I would really like to see a straight axle with bumpsteer changing from putting a kit on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Bumpsteer is usually created by alignment issues, track bar and steering system angles/flex, loose parts. Very common on a lifted Heaps due to the steering angles and the flex of the steering

[H3 Guy]

myxH3 agreed, although trackbar plays little if any role. My point was that bumpsteer is not the same as an IFS as stated by someone else. With a rack and pin setup, the placement of the rack in reference to the tie rod end location ( along with A arm length) is what gives you bumpsteer.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H3 Guy:
myxH3 agreed, although trackbar plays little if any role. My point was that bumpsteer is not the same as an IFS as stated by someone else. With a rack and pin setup, the placement of the rack in reference to the tie rod end location ( along with A arm length) is what gives you bumpsteer. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You are trying to pigeon hole it for the sake of some argument. Bump steer is simply the toe being out temporarily for what-ever reason. Whether it be due to droop of IFS or flex in the linkage on a SFA, bump steer is bump steer.

[The Dent God]

As I am deciding what color to buy my H3 in , I start searching the web for information on my soon to be new vehicle I come across this wonderful website . Being a four wheeler with many lifted trucks including and not limited to an Explorer with 8.5 inches of lift and 35" BFGs( miss this one the most ) I like the look of the lifted H3 and read this post as to what went wrong with the Rancho
!st you guys acting like school girls , I suggest getting your own room , This is supposed to be an info site If you dont have anything to contribute to the discussion -SHUT UP !!!
2 ) In the articles I read it does seem 20" wheels where the focus .
3) If your going off road with this and your worried about airing down for traction , but your whining you dont want your paint scratched from the mud and rocks coming from your tires cuz they stick out , WTF kind of wheelin are you doing ???
I wanna go in the mud , BUT I dont want to get dirty ?! HUH !!
I love the look of a lifted truck , I love wheelin in the trails and mud ( I hate cleaning afterwards). But if your gonna wheel , your gettin dirty and your gonna scratch it .
Personally I like the tires to hang out a bit , and yes I cringe every time I hear a rock bounce off the side of my door .
I dont care much for rancho , kinda liked Superlift , and Fabtech , depends on if its 2wd or 4wd , yes Ive lifted 2wds .Right now I have an 03 Ranger 2wd on 33'tires .Why , because it looks bad ass !
Thanks and keep up the good INFO !

[Rancho]

Hello members!
It has been brought to our (Rancho Suspension) attention a few posts about one of our products. We are in no way trying to say anybody’s opinion is incorrect, we just want a chance to stand behind our product and let the consumers know the facts about our products.


1.) Clearance to Knuckle. When you air down a tire, your clearance from the knuckle will increase and not decrease. The moment when clearance is at the minimum is when a tire is over inflated and has a high impact directly on the tire. The tire will not expand more once a tire is aired down. During our offroad testing, we used 4.75” BS wheels on a 16” wheel. I agree the clearance in that situation is close but it will not hit. The wheel and tire are fixed to the knuckle and the clearance will not change in articulation. A ¼” is a lot more clearance than most other vehicles out on the road. Take a look at any newer Dodge 1500 IFS and realize the aluminum knuckle (which will flex more than a ductile iron knuckle) has less clearance. We would not recommend a wheel and tire combo that, to the best of our knowledge, will not work in all situations including offroading. All of our recommended tire sizes are at 12.50” wide max. If someone picks a wide wheel and wide tire combo outside of our recommended, this may be a different scenario. We do not have enough time to purchase every wheel and tire combination (and different brands) to fit check. Please consult your local wheel and tire specialist and they should be able to help you out. I noticed a response regarding Rancho was contacted for a similar situation and replied with you are to use 20” wheels to clear the knuckle. There is no record of this call and we would be more than happy to look in to this for you.
2.) Tires Sticking Out. We agree that the tires stick out more than OE. To maintain proper caster and camber curves this is mandatory. Rancho does not believe in sacrificing OE geometry and in fact we always try to improve it for offroad handling as well as maintaining the same driver feeling on the road. The two ways to maintain OE geometry are to move the hub section of the knuckle further out (as you increase the upper ball joint neck) or to just increase the upper ball joint neck. By moving the hub section out you can fit OE wheels on, but the end result of track width is exactly the same. I am fairly confident that if you measure the finished front track width they will be the same. Rancho does not believe in moving the hub section out because the end result will be higher forces on the knuckle which could lead to fatigue failure over time.
3.) Highway Speed Stability. We looked at some of the photos of Timgco’s truck and concluded that the torsion bars are cranked too high. The half shafts and the lower control arms are at a greater angle than our vehicle and all the SEMA vehicles we have installed (again, this is assuming from photos, need measurements to be 100%). This will give a result of instability at high speed. The H3 is designed to ride on the OE bumpstops and they act by adding damping and as a light spring. Unless you upgrade the torsion bars, you will have this feeling. When the vehicle is off the bumpstops, it feels like its floating in the air. We noticed this sensation even with a stock vehicle by removing the OE bumpstops. This is the reason why Rancho feels it is very important to reuse the OE bumpstops on this vehicle (especially with 35” tires or any heavy wheel / tire combo). We are disappointed the install shop set the torsion bars to the incorrect height and wish you would have called the Rancho Techline.
4.) Wheel and Tire Sizes. When we do a SEMA project vehicle, we choose a theme. The theme is carried down to the wheel / tire combo as well. What we install on the vehicle is not what the consumer needs to do (and I do apologize if the Techline did in fact tell you this). The management here wanted an adventurous theme to the vehicle and we picked 20” wheels to work with. Since GM and SMA did rugged and outdoors, Dub Air did blingy, we want to give the consumer a different look than the others. If you look at the recommended tire / wheel combo, it does not say anywhere that 20” wheels are required as some posts have reflected. 16”, 17”, and 18” wheels need 4.5” backspacing.
5.) Bumpsteer. Rancho emphasizes on reducing OE bumpsteer while still being able to fit within the same wheel size as OE.
6.) Dropping the Front Differential. We noticed some companies are coming out with kits that do not drop the front differential and giving new half shafts. In our opinion, we do not like this method. Not only does it introduce more moving parts as well as longer install, it creates a new issue for repair 10 years down the road. Most lift kit companies obsolete their kits after the vehicle is more than 10 years old. Specialty replacement parts are not easy to come by after a kit is obsolete. If you plan on taking the kit off as soon at the kits are obsolete this will not be a concern. Rancho thrives to reuse as much OE parts as possible for quick and easy repair. There are not any parts on the Rancho kit that should require maintenance or repair.
7.) Torsion Bar System. Because the torsion bar crossmember is welded to the frame, relocating the torsion bars was not a feasible idea. We noticed (including ours) three different ways companied have pursued this. One company left everything in the same location. Once you see the bending on the torsion bar you realize this could not be good. The other option was a linkage system. The option we picked was a rigid device from Realift. We felt that less moving parts would be less failure, repair, and maintenance while maintaining the same torsional effect. We also used the Realift locator to simplify installation.
Let me reiterate that we are not trying to start controversy, just to back our product. If you have any questions about our product feel free to private message me and we can set up a time to chat. We did 8 vehicles for the SEMA show and each one is a driven daily with no complaints. The H3 is a unique vehicle that not many companies will attempt due to the complexity. We stand behind our products and feel it will be the best available product for a reasonable price. For those who are not aware, this kit did win SEMA Best Offroad Product for 2006. I also ask please do not post reply for bashing the company and giving your personal opinion on a product you are not familiar with. Once again please contact me if you have any questions or comments. We will not be monitoring this post so please use the private messaging.
Rancho

[Dan Rather]

Rancho products are sub standard. Their shocks have half the half the life that other similarly priced shocks do. Their lifts are barely safe.

And they paid for that SEMA award.

[timgco]

WOW! They replied.

It would have been nice to have this feedback when I was going through the issues. Their tech dept. was less than helpful to me personally. I'm not syaing Rancho is a compitant company. All I can say it T&)$ in their tech/ installation dept. was less than helpful. It's too bad this kit didn't work out, because I LOVED the look of this kit for the most part. What Rancho commented on the knuckle being close and not touching is tru to an extent. they didn't take into consideration the fact the sidewall of the tire will flex on top alos... not just the buttom. I was able to stuff that knuckle into the sidewall of the tire on an incline and turning. Maybe I had the wrong the wheel setup. ??? All I know is I paid $600 not to have their lift on my truck and did not get the help I should have from Rancho when I needed it.

[DRTYFN]

6 years ago, when I was researching which lift to put on my '97 Tahoe, I was told by my local non-partisan shop that they had taken off several Rancho lifts because the vehicle owners wanted to replace them with other lifts that were "more reliable". After looking at most lifts on the market I went with Explorer Pro Comp. IMO, theirs was much sturdier, with better welds and better finish. I never had any trouble with that lift.

[timgco]

Well, I just talked with an individual from Rancho. This is them! We discussed the kit and the issues I had. WIthout them actually seeing the kit while it was on my truck, we cannot pinpoint the highway speed isues, but it was confirmed the rim set up was a large part of the issues with the knuckle/ caliper spacing. The wheel spacer with spline nuts also could have been part of the issue. The individual I talked with was even willing to have the kit reinstalled at their facility at N/C to make things the way they should be. (too bad I'm a few states over). If you have questions/ concerns he's more than willling to talk with people. Send him a PM.