Lift or Leveling Kit

[YANKEES31]

I have been going back and forth trying to decide if I want to get a Rancho lift ir just go with a leveling kit.

Right now I am running Toyo MT's 33x12.5 but would like to switch to the same tires in 35's, but these only have about 9k miles on them so that won't be for a while

I would be doing either one stricktly for looks. I do almost 95% highway driving

If it is the leveling kit I go with what one should I get?

Thanks

[waynesoffroad]

You can run 35's with just a leveling kit. Also I would not buy a leveling kit. I would just get some longer shocks instead. You can get just as much lift with the stock keyways and you can with aftermarket ones. If your not going with the rancho I would just get these- http://cognitomotorsports.com/store/Hummer_H3.html Or if you have a lot of money to spend get these- http://www.samcofabrication.com/prod...products_id=48

[Lezam]

Will either of these lower your gas mileage, or make city driving stiffer?

[waynesoffroad]

The lift won't affect the gas milage but the tire size and weight will affect the gas milage. As for the shocks, It will make it ride better!

[YANKEES31]

What about goint with this set up

Truxx leveling kit


and these XL ranch shocks

[waynesoffroad]

I have those shocks with my 4" rancho and they ride great. If you can find out if they are any longer then the stock shocks you would not need the leveling kit. They only need to be about 5/8 longer.

[Big Dad]

I went with the Truxx leveling kit. I wanted the welded reindexed keys. While I'm not too pleased with extending the stock shock -- I'm pleased with the 3" in the front profile. I'm aware that there is a kit cheaper than the Truxx but was impressed after communicating with them via the phone. So yes, I paid more but am very pleased with the level job. Like many before us, if you search the forum, you'll find many valid points about cranking t bars versus leveling your vehicle. I also had the shop fess up my stock keys just in case. Now, I'd really like to find a set of shocks to replace the extended ones. MHO.

[joedirt]

Well, I had the truxxx lift and although it gave me the correct height on the front, I wasn't 100% impressed. The stock torsion keys are made better (cast iron or steel), and had a much better fit. The Truxxx keys had some nice welds but were giving me some pops and squeaks (like others on the site). I even removed them and lubed some of the major components, it helped but didn't get rid of it entirely. Truxxx said to give it a couple weeks for the kit to settle; I gave it 2 months and no change.

You are better off at cranking the stocks and installing some Bilstein Cognito Shocks made for cranked torsion bars, rather than the truxxx kit. The only difference in the truxxx kit as compared to the stock is that the truxxx key is offset a hair to give a little more cranking room...don't need it in my book, and some extended shock brackets. Just crank the stocks and get some extended shocks. Also u might want to add some new aftermarket bump stops as the stocks will be too short.

If you are serious about lift, nothing beats a lift kit. I just don't have $3000 to drop. A lift will pretty much keep the stock driveline angles and not cause increased wear on front end components. Cranking the torsion bars is a quick fix for big tires.

Hope that helps.

[Big Dad]

Originally Posted by joedirt

Well, I had the truxxx lift and although it gave me the correct height on the front, I wasn't 100% impressed. The stock torsion keys are made better (cast iron or steel), and had a much better fit. The Truxxx keys had some nice welds but were giving me some pops and squeaks (like others on the site). I even removed them and lubed some of the major components, it helped but didn't get rid of it entirely. Truxxx said to give it a couple weeks for the kit to settle; I gave it 2 months and no change.

You are better off at cranking the stocks and installing some Bilstein Cognito Shocks made for cranked torsion bars, rather than the truxxx kit. The only difference in the truxxx kit as compared to the stock is that the truxxx key is offset a hair to give a little more cranking room...don't need it in my book, and some extended shock brackets. Just crank the stocks and get some extended shocks. Also u might want to add some new aftermarket bump stops as the stocks will be too short.

If you are serious about lift, nothing beats a lift kit. I just don't have $3000 to drop. A lift will pretty much keep the stock driveline angles and not cause increased wear on front end components. Cranking the torsion bars is a quick fix for big tires.

Hope that helps.

That's where I decided to call and ask them about their product...popping noise.... No grease or lube needed, but the installation has to be spot on.

I agree nothing beats a lift. However, 35's are no problem at all with the leveling kit and the cabbage for the lift can go for something else.

[joedirt]

Originally Posted by Big Dad

That's where I decided to call and ask them about their product...popping noise.... No grease or lube needed, but the installation has to be spot on.

I agree nothing beats a lift. However, 35's are no problem at all with the leveling kit and the cabbage for the lift can go for something else.

I removed the keys, greased some of the components and reinstalled them paying close attention to alignment and spacing. I then measured and remeasured until each side was the same height (24.25"). I then took the vehicle down to the dealer and had them align the h3 to the truxxx specs. I found that I still had a small pop when turning. I also noticed increased body roll from the gain.

[tomp]

The pop could have been related to CV joint being at severe angle

[Big Dad]

Originally Posted by tomp

The pop could have been related to CV joint being at severe angle

My conversation with Patrick at Truxx was all about the product having a popping noise when the wheels are turned right or left and or when over speedbumps and whatnot. The alignment of the t-bar upon installation is tight, no pun intended. A few other owners on previous threads suggested that you give the install a couple of weeks and the noise should go away.

The CV joint angle is approx the same whether you install the kit or just crank the t-bars. Which many H3 owners chose to do. I would think they would also have problems with a popping sound from the CV joint in that case. I paid to have the keys installed and hung out while they did it. Checked the work out while they were R2'd. And, they let me hang out and observe the alignment. They were really cool about letting an airplane mechanic hang with them. Hell, I was under the rack with them while the parts were put in.

As far as body roll -- no difference on my vehicle.

Anyways, there's a lot of good info on this forum if you do your homework you'll find what works best for you.

[Field Scout]

Are you talking "true" 35's or 315/75/16 if the latter several here have done so with no lift/level kit and no crank of the t-bar you will get very minor rub at full wheel lock even when the tire is stuffed in the wheel well most turned the t-bars to get rid of the stink bug look and level front to rear mine is turned 5 times to compensate for the extra weight of a winch and level out to almost even if you dont off road much and just like the looks of a larger tire I would just stick em in there and go If you want a little front end lift to loose the stink bug trial and error with the t-bars. I wouldn't go crazy with them but there is no formula for # of turns = height mostly turn then look and measure also you may find one side higher than the other so you can adjust accordingly don't go to high or the ride quality goes a bit also don't want to put a crazy angle on your cv joint.

Good luck

[Big Dad]

Tire Size 315/75R16/D

Description 121Q

Rim width range 8-10(inches)

Measuring Rim Width 12.3 on 8.5

Overall Diameter 34.8"

Tread Depth 20/32nds

BFG KM2 MT's


Lets see, I'll go out on a limb here:

35 - 34.8 = .2

I can't speak for waynesoffroad but, yeah I'll call the BFG MT's 315/75R16/D's 35's.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs...-km2/3930.html

Sorry, my puddy hurts, I had a root canal today and I'm cranky as hell.

[ETD]

I went with ReadyLift levelling kit. Well made. Offroad without issues on 33-34 inch Superswampers. No noise that I found annoying although I am not that sensitive like some here (it's a truck, there're metal parts, there'll be squeaks and groans. c'mon people. ).

[Big Dad]

Originally Posted by ETD

I went with ReadyLift levelling kit. Well made. Offroad without issues on 33-34 inch Superswampers. No noise that I found annoying although I am not that sensitive like some here (it's a truck, there're metal parts, there'll be squeaks and groans. c'mon people. ).

Exactly what was the process to debadge it. I'd like to do it without F*****ing anything up.

[Field Scout]

Originally Posted by Big Dad

Tire Size 315/75R16/D

Description 121Q

Rim width range 8-10(inches)

Measuring Rim Width 12.3 on 8.5

Overall Diameter 34.8"

Tread Depth 20/32nds

BFG KM2 MT's


Lets see, I'll go out on a limb here:

35 - 34.8 = .2

I can't speak for waynesoffroad but, yeah I'll call the BFG MT's 315/75R16/D's 35's.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs...-km2/3930.html

Sorry, my puddy hurts, I had a root canal today and I'm cranky as hell.

No biggie, I've never looked at the actual specs but had a buddy get some 35x? and they were almost 36 also the width associated with that tire would increase probability of rubbing (don't recall the brand)

[Big Dad]

Originally Posted by Field Scout

No biggie, I've never looked at the actual specs but had a buddy get some 35x? and they were almost 36 also the width associated with that tire would increase probability of rubbing (don't recall the brand)

36" that's interesting. I'm a big fan of the stock hummer rims and another inch equals another half inch in height, right! I'm also under the impression that the stock rims could be offset by a small amount. But, I'm wondering if the extra width on that tire could have been offset in the rim, enough to aleviate the rub? I'll have to start mesuring 35's for the next purchase.

[sattv]

I'm starting to not like the stink bug look myself

[Big Dad]

Originally Posted by ETD

H3Bas'r: Ready-Lift Levelled Superior Blue (debadged), Sun roof, Tinted, Mud mats, Wakizashi, front Husky flaps, Manik rocker bars, UCS, Tom Tom GPS for Treo, SuperSwampers Radial TSL, Rear Eaton Locker, PCMforless'd... but, alas, not waterproofed ).

OK, what I gotta know is, (debadged) means factory emblems removed?

Please tell me how you did it? You know, without dicking up the paint?